I am looking to buy a sonic cleaner.  Money isn't really an object since my work will be paying for it.

I am eyeing the Lyman Turbo Sonic Cleaner at Brownell's, it's a 35" wide tank, I figured I can get two uppers in it at a time.

The question I have is, what to do with the uppers once done, do you all hang and air dry them for a few hours afterwards?  Any kind of vent hood system that you use?

Normally guns with solvent are wiped, but this takes the fluid amounts to a whole new level, just looking into logistics of what else I should do to accommodate it.

I would suggest buying a scientific grade, laboratory quality cleaner that is designed to be used every day.  My brother bought one from a reloading type company and promptly burned it up.  I gave him mine which is still in service. I think it was a heated Branson.  

My guns didn't need to be that clean, and the US cleaner was a waste of my time.

Brownells sells cleaners and lubes specifically for ultrasonic cleaners.  Just follow the chemical directions.

How to dry depends on the cleaning solution....water based or solvent based.

Which ever, after cleaning, rinse if needed with water or clean solvent.
If you have access to compressed air blow it off, then warm the metal to finish drying.
A good way to warm is a hair dryer.
Note: Hair dryer, NOT blow torch, heat gun, or oven.
You can make a great dryer by building a simple wooden frame and mounting a low watt light bulb in one side.
Put some screen wire over the top and put a cardboard box over that.
Just put the cleaned gun on the top and cover with the box, plug in and it'll dry in a short time.
For a rifle make a frame with two bulbs, one on each end.
Just don't go off and leave it, it can get  too hot.

If you use a water based cleaner you can rinse with ordinary water, hot preferably.
Then you can flush it out with WD-40 and wipe and blow off the excess, or you can spray it out with cheap rubbing alcohol to drive out the water, then warm to dry.

If you use a solvent based solution you can rinse with cheap paint thinner, blow off and warm to dry.

In either case, once dry you need to get a rust preventing lube into ALL hidden crevices and holes.
Ultrasonics remove ALL lubricant from areas no other method can get to, and those areas can rust.
A good lube like CLP Breakfree will creep and spread into all areas if you give it time and enough of it.
I used to spray in CLP with an airbrush, which produces a fine mist that does a great job.
Note: DO NOT breath the spray....you certainly won't like it.

Also note to be very careful what cleaner you use.  A lot of the water based soap cleaners like Simply Green, Purple Power, Greased Lightning, ect WILL attack and destroy aluminum and will do so faster in an ultrasonic tank.
A smart idea is to get some scrap anodized aluminum and test the solution by running it for 30 minutes to see if it's damaged.

Keep your fingers out of the tank while running.
Ultrasonics and bone marrow don't play well together.  This is a cumulative damage over time but just don't start to be safe.

If your company is going to pay for it (Within reason) I'd look at L&R, Branson, and the other top brands.  Those are made to very high professional standards and will last about forever, but they are very expensive.