Hence back screws on the mount are used to adjust windage of the mount, and the front mounts is a cam lock design instead.

So before doing anything, bore sight the scope to figure out where on the grid the scope is aiming and where you will need to readjust the rear set screws so the scope is still aiming there after it reinstalled.

Also, make sure you have the correct flat head screw driver tips so you don't bugger up the slots of the screws.

To start with,  slightly loosen the tension on the scope rings top screws so they bottoms are not cam'gg from the top tension before you start canting the rear out ward. Next,  front mount screws gets loosened up, then rear screws are removed so you can pivot the entire back ring to the side on the mount while slightly pulling up on the rear ring so you don't scratch the top of the base finish, , then the front mount side screw is removed so the scope with rings can be pulled up and out.

Both the single piece and 2 piece designs are the same principle.
 


You are correct, remove the screws on the rear and rotate the scope at the front.


 
I havent seen one with a screw in the front, but its possible.

Not a set screw but the pin that goes through the front ring annular groove instead to lock it to the front base, and to draw the front ring tight to the base channel as well.

Hence Leupold did the same thing kind of with their STD mounts, but did more of a dove tail for the front mount with front and back scalping that did not need the pin through an annular groove to hold the ring in in place.

Hence on the Leupold, you just remove the rear mount screws, pivot the back to the side 90*, and the front ring  will come right up from the base.


On yours, you will need to first loosen the front mount front screw to relive the channel tension to be able to pivot the back out to begin with then the rear screws are remove, then will need to remove the set screws/pin to pull it out of the front ring annular groove of the front ring so the front ring and be pulled pulled up and out instead.  Truth is, if you just remove the front base side screw to begin with, then you don't need to pivot the back up much to just pull the the front ring off the base isntead.  Hence the front screw/pin does both, as a guide to hold the front ring down in the base via the rings groove it in, and also tightens the front channel in the base to keep it right after a few removals as well.