Standard V blocks will work so long as you mark up the receiver so you can adjust it in the V blocks for each cut.



But more Precise with a indexer/rotary table with chuck and tail stock set up for a 4th axis for the rotation on the work piece  to set up next cuts instead.

This is the better choice, since its a PITA having to index round work by hand blindly instead (that triple checking and reset up makes what should be a easy job of rotating the piece a PITA instead.

As for rotory table, the tilting types work a lot better since at some point your going to have to tilt a work piece for rotatory work, but the problem is a good pre-buit one will cost you are arm in and leg instead.

Don't get me wrong, you can get away with the cheaper grizzly tilting base rotary tables, but getting them up to par to start with, is a project on it own to begin with.

Little trick, and depends how concentric the through bore in on the rotory table to begin with, you can use make a chuck centering rod for the rotory table bore to get the chuck very close with min run out as you are bolting it  first down.

Hence pilot get drop into the through channel on the rotary table, T bolts left slighty loose, clamp the chuck jaws down on the pilot to pull the jaw concentric with the table, the tighten the bolts.




As for the cheap Asian rotary tables, before you buy one, try to find a tear down diagram/photo of them.  
Hence what you are looking for is double suport for the drive gear rod.   It's bad enough that some don't even have a clean way to remove the lash quickly, but with a  single drive support on the drive rod to the bushing housing, in a short time your going to wear the single bushing out, and will be chasing your tail trying to dial out lash again.

Cheap rotary with no end drive rod support.


Rotary table with end drive rod support instead,


HV-6 clone with double support on the drive rod before the gear, bu still shake my head why they did not do a roller bearing/bushing with end support on end of the drive gear as well.



So to back it up, the Grizzly 6" table you posted is a knock off a phase II design, but the reason that is half the price, the internal machining is half the quality instead (read may be sending a couple of them back until you receiver one that even close to acceptable to begin going through the table part to clean, true, and then grease it before reassembling it to use the first time.  Granted that you don't have to start with a Yuasa table (Phase II or Vertex are fine), but do know that kind of battle you are up against trying to tune a sows ear into a silk purse from the start.