re-anodizing lower?

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Posted: 6/4/2015 5:03:26 AM EDT

In the process of getting an 80%. It's gonna be my 1st one doing it. Is it necessary to re-anodizing it after milling in the trigger area? Is this gonna be a weak link in the weapon if I don't? I plan on not having any markings it, just a plain jane,

with a paint job.
Thanks

Posted: 6/4/2015 8:25:42 AM EDT

[#1]

The 2nd layer may add too much depth, maybe problems with not being able to get your pins in.

Posted: 6/4/2015 9:59:32 AM EDT

[#2]

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Quoted:
The 2nd layer may add too much depth, maybe problems with not being able to get your pins in.

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Really? with all the experts on this site. This is my only input?

Posted: 6/4/2015 10:45:26 AM EDT

[#3]

I'm no expert.
In fact, I hardly know the difference between my ass and a hole in the ground!

I was just thinking hypotheticly.

Posted: 6/4/2015 10:46:18 AM EDT

[#4]

Touch it up with a black sharpie?

Posted: 6/4/2015 10:59:06 AM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:
In the process of getting an 80%. It's gonna be my 1st one doing it. Is it necessary to re-anodizing it after milling in the trigger area? Is this gonna be a weak link in the weapon if I don't? I plan on not having any markings it, just a plain jane,

with a paint job.
Thanks

View Quote

You should definitely re-anodize it because you don't want soft trigger pin holes

ask in this thread, a few people have experience with DIY anodizing

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/675852_Home_anodizing_First_attempt.html

Posted: 6/4/2015 12:06:14 PM EDT

[#6]

Contact US Anodizing and talk to Victor. He does a ton of anodizing for the firearms industry. He can do the job, just do not know what he charges for it.

Posted: 6/4/2015 1:42:02 PM EDT

[#7]

Quote History

Quoted:

You should definitely re-anodize it because you don't want soft trigger pin holes

ask in this thread, a few people have experience with DIY anodizing

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/675852_Home_anodizing_First_attempt.html

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
In the process of getting an 80%. It's gonna be my 1st one doing it. Is it necessary to re-anodizing it after milling in the trigger area? Is this gonna be a weak link in the weapon if I don't? I plan on not having any markings it, just a plain jane,

with a paint job.
Thanks

You should definitely re-anodize it because you don't want soft trigger pin holes

ask in this thread, a few people have experience with DIY anodizing

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/675852_Home_anodizing_First_attempt.html

Thank you, this actually helped and I have some ideas on how to proceed.

Posted: 6/4/2015 2:12:04 PM EDT

[#8]

yes. aluminium is soft but aluminium oxide is hard. Hard coat anodizing strengthens your weapon like putting fibreglass on a surfboard.

Posted: 6/4/2015 11:01:12 PM EDT

[#9]

There is a difference between anodizing at home and hard coat anodizing...

If you want you can add steel grommets into your 80% lower and then not worry about it.

Posted: 6/10/2015 4:12:22 PM EDT

[#10]

In the future, I'd steer clear of anodized 80% lowers. I think it's kind of stupid. I get its supposed to help cut costs for the end user, but I think it's retarded. But if your going to anodize it, its going to cost more to re-anodize it (strip current anodize off and then anodize it)

Posted: 6/10/2015 7:54:27 PM EDT

[#11]

Anodize requires detailed knowledge of the alloy.

The gun manufacturers are well known for not being all that forthcoming with the information.

Larger ones can 'adjust' the alloy as they wish.
There are a whole lot of tricks that can be done with aluminum to produce harder wear surface in the alloy.
One of them results in carbide being formed in the metal.
Some aluminum can then be removed from the surface leaving the carbide exposed as a wear surface.

Hard enough to be a cylinder bore in an engine.

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