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Posted: 3/17/2015 11:23:38 PM EDT
[#1]
This thread is relevant to my interests.
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Posted: 3/17/2015 11:38:45 PM EDT
[#2]
Have you measured the dovetail? I would think that when you have the dimensions that sourcing a bit would not be so difficult.
Edit: have you already viewed this thread? |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 11:47:02 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 3/17/2015 11:51:07 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you measured the dovetail? I would think that when you have the dimensions that sourcing a bit would not be so difficult. Edit: have you already viewed this thread? https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=256722 Thanks! I had only searched in this forum. Edit: The above thread seems to be only relevant to milling the "male" portion of the rail. That is, the rail it self. Not the slot on the back of an accessory. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 5:54:23 AM EDT
[#5]
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Posted: 3/18/2015 11:54:14 AM EDT
[#6]
I always just put the part on a 45 degree angle and use a key cutter.
The cutter Rich_V posted would also work nicely but seems like the tips would wear out faster if you're making a bunch of mounts. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 12:14:12 PM EDT
[#7]
If your doing a lot of cutting, you will want to get one or two in carbide. If you are just cutting aluminum or plastic, a High Speed Steel cutter will work. I have carbide ones that will cut steel, and HSS ones that cut alum/plastics.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 3:40:15 PM EDT
[#8]
Rich_V, thank you. If "cutting diameter" is the measurement from tip to tip (the widest point), then I assume you have a jig to allow two passes? Otherwise the slot wouldn't be wide enough.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 4:26:26 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Rich_V, thank you. If "cutting diameter" is the measurement from tip to tip (the widest point), then I assume you have a jig to allow two passes? Otherwise the slot wouldn't be wide enough. I use this on my milling machine. First pass is with a half inch end mill to hog out most of the cut. Then follow with the double-angle cutter in two passes to get the correct width. Enco has a 25% off sale today only, use code "LUCKY25" at checkout. 
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Posted: 3/19/2015 2:34:22 AM EDT
[#10]
Ah, I understand now.
Make your own milling cutters. It is not likely you will find what you are looking for, storebought. From another site - You get the idea. 
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Posted: 3/23/2015 10:59:30 PM EDT
[#11]
No. I drew one up and sent it off for a quote to a custom tool grinder and never pursued it any further. I just use an 1/8" endmill to do the female (mount) picatinny geometry. It's multiple setups but for the few occasions I've done it it's not worth the expense for a custom tool. ETA when I get to work tomorrow I'll post a model of what I'm talking about. And if I still have a print for the tool saved I'll post that too if you want to get your own quotes.
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Posted: 3/24/2015 1:14:26 PM EDT
[#12]
So to mill a female picatinny rail without any special cutters, first orient your part like so and use a flat endmill to hog out the main channel.
Then in a V block or angle block or whatever method you have, tilt the part 45 degrees and mill with an 1/8" endmill like this: 
Depending on your style of mount you might flip the part and repeat the process on the other side, or you might be making a separate clamping piece, etc. On a cutter, here's what I've got. The intent here was to hog out with a straight endmill like shown above and then follow up with this tool, which is slightly undersize with 2 passes to get final geometry done. 
Don't rely on my dimensions if you want a cutter like that, go to someone like Harvey Tool or whomever, give them a print of the rail geometry you want to cut and just ask them to quote you a tool that will cut that geometry with X shank size. |
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Posted: 3/25/2015 11:47:10 AM EDT
[#13]
Cutting both sides at the same time is almost always a bad idea.
An undersized cutter and two passes (one on each side) works a lot better. |
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Posted: 3/25/2015 1:22:21 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Cutting both sides at the same time is almost always a bad idea. An undersized cutter and two passes (one on each side) works a lot better. To a finished dimension I agree. Roughing I don't think it's an issue at all. |
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Posted: 3/25/2015 2:40:47 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
To a finished dimension I agree. Roughing I don't think it's an issue at all. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Cutting both sides at the same time is almost always a bad idea. An undersized cutter and two passes (one on each side) works a lot better. To a finished dimension I agree. Roughing I don't think it's an issue at all. Has a nasty habit of breaking cutters. Since they are not free, best avoided. |
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Posted: 3/25/2015 5:45:43 PM EDT
[#16]
If you say so. Miles and miles of T-slots disagree with you.
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Posted: 3/25/2015 8:24:26 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you say so. Miles and miles of T-slots disagree with you. Ranks up there with using a 60 degree bit at 90 on the compound to cut threads. Try a tougher material and see how it works. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 8:27:26 AM EDT
[#19]
Buy this for $21 and be done with it.
One pass with an endmill to hog out the center then two passes with the double angle cutter. - DONE! 
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Posted: 3/27/2015 8:09:08 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Buy this for $21 and be done with it. One pass with an endmill to hog out the center then two passes with the double angle cutter. - DONE! http://www.use-enco.com/ProductImages/0319705-23.jpg Thank you! |
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Posted: 3/28/2015 9:47:36 AM EDT
[#21]
You can see cutter marks on the bottom edges of the slots.
Why are you in such a rush to make a single pass? Had to make plenty of T slots in Ti for satellite equipment. It remains on of the most PITA material to deal with. |
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