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Posted: 2/16/2015 8:56:15 AM EDT
So I came across a well priced ATI 1911 Military full 5 inch blued from ATI a while back and bought it to replace my old Springfield Range Officer, which was already complete with most any upgrade you could ask for.  I never had a knack for shooting the RO as I just didn't seem to hit very well with it, but surprisingly this little cheaper ATI shoots great for me, so I decided to stick with it.  

Right out of the box and after some suggestion from a professional shooter, I was advised to get rid of the stock beavertail and hammer, and as far as he was concerned get a new trigger as well, but I'm not looking for a professional rig here, just want something that's comfortable to shoot and reliable.  I would like to attempt installing an upgraded beavertail and hammer myself, I'm just not quite sure which parts to buy to make any modifications minimal.

I know my way around a garage so minor filing or polishing shouldn't be an issue.  I've not worked on 1911's much but they seem pretty straight forward, and finding a local gunsmith is somewhat difficult so if the work can be performed by me I would prefer it.

I've read that Wilson Combat makes a "near" drop-in replacement but as for the hammer I'm not sure which one I would require.  I ran some searches but wasn't able to come back with any specific upgrades to an ATI 1911 with any sort of a walkthrough however I have walkthroughs of both hammer and beavertail replacements.  

Any suggestions welcome, or verification of the correct part for the Military version of this 1911.  The color will have to be blue to match the rest of the weapon.

Thanks!

Here are the links to what I am assuming is correct, let me know if i'm wrong.. Beavertail, Hammer

Here's the gun I'm working on :
Link Posted: 2/19/2015 10:39:11 PM EDT
[#1]
I've done this with a few 1911's with good results and alot of money.  The stones alone can cost the price (+) of the parts.

In your case, I'd start with a matched set of, hammer and sear.  Better if it were disconnector, hammer and sear.  Once these are proven you can
add the grip safety (GP).  Then prove again.  You need to make sure your pistol is safe in all conditions.

As far as GP. I only use the modify receiver type and found the easy way is to use a drill press for final sanding
Link Posted: 2/21/2015 11:13:13 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for the advice.  I haven't purchased yet, I will be sure to look into this.
Link Posted: 2/23/2015 4:29:58 PM EDT
[#3]
Ed Brown Hardcore hammer, EB Perfection sear, disconnector and sear spring. Add a Greider trigger and you have the beginnings of a nice and crisp, clean and reliable 1911 action/trigger.
The parts mentioned are very well made and consistent dimensionally.
Beware of parts denoted as "drop in". They may infact drop in but will typically need tuning such as setting sear angle, hammer hook depth etc to really be able to realize what you are trying to achieve.
No matter what you get they all will typically need fine tuning.
Link Posted: 3/7/2015 9:40:53 PM EDT
[#4]
I just did a mil=spec SA with C&S dropin FCG, Wilson drop in grip safety and a Ed Brown tactical safety. Only fitting was the safety. Shoots great and the trigger pull in around 3 lbs.
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