Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Posted: 1/13/2015 11:44:41 PM EDT
What is the proper way to use a reamer? I currently have a .3670 hole that I would like to clean up and make rounder.
Can I get a .3675 or a .3680 reamer and merely ream it out like drilling a hole or am I missing something?

They look really straight in McMaster Carr's little sketches,are they tapered enough to start into a hole?

Thanks
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 8:25:19 AM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 11:15:47 AM EDT
[#2]
To add to dano
Use a good cutting oil with the reamer.
When I want a very accurate hole I will use two reamers, first is undersized by a couple thousands then follow with the final reamer size desired.
Link Posted: 1/16/2015 4:33:13 PM EDT
[#3]
Ok thanks guys, that should be enough info to get me going
Link Posted: 1/26/2015 12:48:12 AM EDT
[#4]
If I had a .3670 hole that I wanted to clean up and make rounder. I would get a 3/8 reamer and a .375 endmill. If you shop for a .3750 reamer you will likely spend more money for the same reamer. You add cost any time that you add that fourth decimal, and for what you are doing it's not needed.
I would use the endmill to create a start for the reamer, approximately 1X dia deep. This will square up the hole to the spindle of the machine that the part is clamped in/to. It will also keep the the reamer from following a crooked or curved hole.

I would probably run that reamer at 800 to 1000 RPM depending on the material. Just put light pressure on the quill handle and let the tool do the work.

If you try to clean up that hole with a .3675 or a .3680 reamer you will still see tool marks from the drill that made the hole. For a reamer that size I like to clean up about .015" on the diameter, or .007" per side. Don't worry about the steep lead on the reamer. I would blow out any chips before running the reamer, and I would hose down the reamer and the hole with WD-40 before reaming. I wouldn't worry about the chips that the reamer is creating or trying to hose out the hole while cutting.

There are a few variables that may change my answer a little bit but not a lot.
What kind of material?
How deep are you going?
Blind or through hole?
Drill press, bench top mill, or full size Bridgeport?
Clamped to table or held in a vise?
How much room under your part when set up?

ETA: I see that you started this thread nine days ago. Did you get it done already? How did you do?
Link Posted: 1/26/2015 11:10:56 PM EDT
[#5]
I haven't done it yet. I did order a reamer from McMaster Carr , a .3685 I believe.   I only have a cheap drill press, and it has way to much run out. I'm almost scared to do it!

It's only 1/8 thick, an end cap for a form 1 homemade silencer.
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 12:15:33 AM EDT
[#6]
Well in that case, throw out most of what I said.

The hardest part of doing a thin part is holding on to it. Don't try to hold it by hand. You might get away with it because you are only removing a thou, but it may catch and go for a ride.

Do you have a toe clamp or a vise to squeeze it in?

Put the reamer in the chuck and see how bad it runs out at the tip of the reamer. If you've got an indicator use it right on the flutes, spinning the chuck backwards by hand to see which flute is the furthest from center line. Use a brass hammer and knock the reamer around to get it to spin true. It will move in the chuck if you didn't clamp the shit out of it. clamp it just enough. Line up the reamer with the existing hole, give it a squirt of weasel piss. Spin it from 200 to 800 RPM, and pull gently. Don't be a pussy and sit there with the reamer touching, and not moving, but don't be a brutus and yank it through the hole.

Does the inside of the hole look like it was made with a drill? Big swirl mark?

If this guy can do it... Couple corrections. Don't clamp the vise as hard as this guy did. Clamping a vise that hard is reserved for blocks of steel that are getting machined aggressively. No need to peck drill on something that thin, 1/2" or thicker to peck. Don't stop the reamer and then remove from the hole. You will get vertical lines in your part when the flutes drag back out of your nice hole.

Link Posted: 1/27/2015 2:03:19 PM EDT
[#7]
Even the best collect and tool spindles may still have some run out
View Quote


That is what floating reamer holders are for.
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 7:20:42 PM EDT
[#8]
And to not turn a reamer backwards while in the material. It will damage/dull the cutting edges.
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top