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Posted: 11/17/2014 10:26:00 PM EDT
I have a Remington 700 in 6.8 SPC with a 26in. barrel that I want to change to this 20in Douglas barrel in the same caliber. I was going to have someone do it, but then I thought I might as well learn something new. I am wiling
to buy what ever tools I need to accomplish the job so I thought I'd stop by here to get some step by step advice from folks that have experience with this work. It looks like unscrew one, and screw in the other, but I realize
that there's more to it then that. The barrel that's on it was installed by Remington. I plan on Cerakoting the new barrel and the action before I assemble it.

Thanks for any tips in advance.
Link Posted: 11/17/2014 11:04:24 PM EDT
[#1]
Action tool, barrel blocks, head space gages, lathe, or a shit load of recoil lugs, reamers, mic's, etc.........
Good luck with this
Link Posted: 11/17/2014 11:21:09 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 11/17/2014 11:31:45 PM EDT
[#3]
Do NOT skimp on a good barrel vise. You will need it. An 800lbs gorilla torqued that factory barrel on with red locktite LOL.

This is what I used to remove a few 700 barrels:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/barrel-vises/barrel-vise-prod41623.aspx

They were both tough to remove.

I used this action wrench:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/remington-700-action-wrench-prod26568.aspx

If the barrel is already finish chambered, you'll probably have to headspace by adjusting the thickness of the recoil lug (remington calls this a barrel bracket)
If you do that, it's pretty simple to do, you'll just need some headspace gauges and a way to properly adjust the thickness of the lug. If you buy a complete set of headspace gauges (multiple gauges of various lengths, not just go/no-go), you can order the correct thickness lug from PTG.

If it's not finish chambered, you can use pretty much whatever lug you want, then you'll need to chamber it yourself.
Link Posted: 11/18/2014 12:41:21 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
How does the chamber in that new barrel look?

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Link Posted: 11/18/2014 10:43:01 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Do NOT skimp on a good barrel vise. You will need it. An 800lbs gorilla torqued that factory barrel on with red locktite LOL.

This is what I used to remove a few 700 barrels:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/barrel-vises/barrel-vise-prod41623.aspx

They were both tough to remove.

I used this action wrench:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/remington-700-action-wrench-prod26568.aspx

If the barrel is already finish chambered, you'll probably have to headspace by adjusting the thickness of the recoil lug (remington calls this a barrel bracket)
If you do that, it's pretty simple to do, you'll just need some headspace gauges and a way to properly adjust the thickness of the lug. If you buy a complete set of headspace gauges (multiple gauges of various lengths, not just go/no-go), you can order the correct thickness lug from PTG.

If it's not finish chambered, you can use pretty much whatever lug you want, then you'll need to chamber it yourself.
View Quote


Good advice here^  I rebarreled my Remington 600 a few years back, fortunately for me, my barrel lug was  thick for the new barrel, and my neighbor has a surface grinder.

I made a low-buck action bar by taking a scrap piece of bar tool steel and milling it to the same dimensions as the bolt lugs, long enough  to stick a few inches out of the back of the action. used a pair of large crescent wrenches to break and torque the action off and on the barrel.

The advantage is it's cheap, it grabs the entire raceway and prevents any twisting. But you have to have access to a mill, and you can't use a torque wrench. I went with one good grunt, Rifle shoots fine, barrel hasn't fallen off. Yet.

I just used the go & No-go gauge, worked out ok for me.
Link Posted: 11/18/2014 1:31:29 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 11/18/2014 1:39:29 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Now I'm curious about the place you bought the barrel and whether it's new or a take off.

There are more critical dimensions to look after than can be adjusted by the recoil lug thickness.  To do the barrel maker justice, this is more complicated than "screw 'er on" and hope it works out okay.  That's my view on the topic anyway.

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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How does the chamber in that new barrel look?



<a href="http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/urbankz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B0AC34AA-3FFC-4D69-BF77-EBE922D17F18_zpsanggphp0.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l565/urbankz/Mobile%20Uploads/B0AC34AA-3FFC-4D69-BF77-EBE922D17F18_zpsanggphp0.jpg</a>
<a href="http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/urbankz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/98F182C6-5743-4AAD-B16B-96EEE2F08299_zpsmupxgcfu.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l565/urbankz/Mobile%20Uploads/98F182C6-5743-4AAD-B16B-96EEE2F08299_zpsmupxgcfu.jpg</a>


Now I'm curious about the place you bought the barrel and whether it's new or a take off.

There are more critical dimensions to look after than can be adjusted by the recoil lug thickness.  To do the barrel maker justice, this is more complicated than "screw 'er on" and hope it works out okay.  That's my view on the topic anyway.


Concur.

Edge of that chamber sure is sharp, too.
Link Posted: 11/18/2014 9:16:34 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Now I'm curious about the place you bought the barrel and whether it's new or a take off.



There are more critical dimensions to look after than can be adjusted by the recoil lug thickness.  To do the barrel maker justice, this is more complicated than "screw 'er on" and hope it works out okay.  That's my view on the topic anyway.

View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How does the chamber in that new barrel look?



<a href="http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/urbankz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B0AC34AA-3FFC-4D69-BF77-EBE922D17F18_zpsanggphp0.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l565/urbankz/Mobile%20Uploads/B0AC34AA-3FFC-4D69-BF77-EBE922D17F18_zpsanggphp0.jpg</a>
<a href="http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/urbankz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/98F182C6-5743-4AAD-B16B-96EEE2F08299_zpsmupxgcfu.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l565/urbankz/Mobile%20Uploads/98F182C6-5743-4AAD-B16B-96EEE2F08299_zpsmupxgcfu.jpg</a>


Now I'm curious about the place you bought the barrel and whether it's new or a take off.



There are more critical dimensions to look after than can be adjusted by the recoil lug thickness.  To do the barrel maker justice, this is more complicated than "screw 'er on" and hope it works out okay.  That's my view on the topic anyway.



The barrel is new. I ordered it from Douglas Barrels, and they built it per my request. Police profile, 20in. 6.8 SPC II chamber. I saw on line that I could rent the go/no go's, and a reamer. That might be the way to go as I'll never do
this caliber again. I'll start by ordering an action tool and getting the barrel removed. There's a local retired guy that does smithing from his home. He has a lath and the whole works, so i guess I can go running to him if everything
goes south.

It's just a project rifle any way. As you can see, I was able to inlet the stock and do some slight mods on the bottom metal and a .223 magazine to get it to feed properly with 6.8. It will also serve as a Cerakote experament I'll post
some update pics..
Link Posted: 11/18/2014 10:26:23 PM EDT
[#9]
Link Posted: 11/18/2014 11:29:19 PM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:
I looked at Douglas Barrels' web site last night and couldn't find anything about pre machined and chambered barrels.

You probably should ask them the recoil lug thickness they machined for, the one that comes off your gun will be a few thousandths different.

When you get the barrel off the gun, take a good look at the face of the receiver.  This would be a good time to lap the bolt lugs, and you'll need a tool that screws into the action and puts a little preload on the bolt face.  But I don't know that I would do that with this pre-chambered barrel.


I found this just now:



Gotta say I agree.
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Quoted:
I looked at Douglas Barrels' web site last night and couldn't find anything about pre machined and chambered barrels.

You probably should ask them the recoil lug thickness they machined for, the one that comes off your gun will be a few thousandths different.

When you get the barrel off the gun, take a good look at the face of the receiver.  This would be a good time to lap the bolt lugs, and you'll need a tool that screws into the action and puts a little preload on the bolt face.  But I don't know that I would do that with this pre-chambered barrel.


I found this just now:



THE FINISHED, THREADED AND CHAMBERED BARREL

Here we use the finish turned barrel above and then cut the proper thread for the action involved, chamber for the cartridge ordered and crown the barrel. The chamber in this barrel is finished in the sense that a finishing reamer is not required. You must however make a slight cut on the breech with a lathe and have a method of gaging headspace. DO NOT FIRE this barrel without making this adjustment. A set of instructions will be enclosed in the package. Be sure that you do not throw it away with the wrapping material.



Gotta say I agree.

On what?
This is not a DIY?
Link Posted: 11/19/2014 1:25:04 AM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 11/19/2014 11:47:03 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Douglas recommends trimming the breech to fit the gun.  I'm not surprised.

I guess it's do it yourself if you have a lathe.  It's not a screw it on proposition without some more work, and there is still a possibility of work beyond that will be needed.

View Quote


Well thanks to your post, I was able to grab a flashlight and recover the instructions from the trash bin last night before this mornings pick up. Suprisingly they were folded up very small and
wrapped into the newspaper that was around the barrel.

It looks like your right. This is a DIY project if you have your own lathe, and can be even more complex. Since I don't have one, I'm going to have to take it, and the instructions to the local
gunsmith with some go/no gauges. It makes sense that I should just have him remove the barrel also instead of spending money on an action tool when he has one. I'll post an update as to how
big of a deal the work turns out to be for the gunsmith. Funny how something that looks like it would be simple is so complicated, and putting together an AR which looks complicated is so simple.

Thanks again for all the help. Below is a copy of the Douglas instructions FYI.



Link Posted: 11/19/2014 1:46:07 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 11/19/2014 3:27:31 PM EDT
[#14]
What's the letter prefix on this rifle?
Link Posted: 11/19/2014 6:30:23 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What's the letter prefix on this rifle?
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G
Link Posted: 11/19/2014 6:41:31 PM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:


G
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Quoted:
Quoted:
What's the letter prefix on this rifle?


G

Cool. Those are generally the best of them. They're fairly straight (receiver face/threads/locking lugs) as 700s go. Particularly the engraved Gs.

It would still benefit from being trued, but it's not as critical as some of the other series.
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