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Posted: 10/26/2014 7:56:09 PM EDT
... is there some secret "can't-knock-it-out-with-a-hammer-and-punch" class of rollpin that I don't know about yet, that is holding on my trigger guard and bolt catch? I pounded the bejeebus out of them with hammer & punch, and they just smirked at me, didn't even laugh in derision. Turned them over and pounded the other sides like easy girlfriends, and still they didn't even squeek. I think they're evil. Do I have to drill the things out? Do I need a Brownell's extractagrifier? Do I smear butter on them and do the girlfriend thing again. What. Guide me.




[btw: My first zero-informational but supposably provocative thread title, used to bug the heck outta me before I snuck over this border, but seems to be an Arfcom hive trad so I am trying to conform.]
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 8:30:02 PM EDT
[#1]
Get a bigger hammer or hit it like you have a pair.
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 9:04:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Might have a little corrosion or bonding from the dissimilar metals, I'd try dropping some Kroil in it over night, and some heat to move the metals around, then if it won't go, Don't force it, get a bigger hammer!
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 9:16:58 PM EDT
[#3]
We're you using a roll pin punch?  Maybe it's decided your using the wrong tools and it's not budging till you order one from brownells. Lol
PB blaster and a larger hammer.
Remember if it breaks, it needed upgrading anyway.
Link Posted: 10/27/2014 10:49:40 AM EDT
[#4]
Lube & more tool, the hive is wise, yes.

I had no idea there was such a thing as a roll pin punch. Last time I asked about a punch, a guy told me to use a nail.
Link Posted: 10/27/2014 4:25:06 PM EDT
[#5]
You need to be extremely careful removing the roll pin through the trigger guard.
A number of people have found out the hard way that the "ears" on the receiver will break right off if the receiver isn't well supported with a bench block.
Make sure the block has a hole big enough to allow the pin to move out.
The same goes when installing the pin.  Get it slightly crooked and the pin can contact the side of the ear and snap it right off.
Break an ear off and it's not repairable.
This is one of those jobs you need to be extremely careful with and pay close attention to what's going on.

Here's pointers on removing tight pins.

Use a "starter" pin punch.
This is just a pin punch cut off to about 1/2" inch working length.  This prevents the punch from bending or flexing and directs all the force to the pin.  If a standard length punch is used the force may be dissipated and cause the pin to distort, locking it tighter.
Once you have the pin moving, switch to a standard length punch.

Support the part with bench blocks, and put it on a SOLID surface.
If the part moves or bounces when struck, again the force is dissipated.
Either put it on a SOLID bench, or just put it on a concrete floor.
Have a buddy help hold it firmly in place.

As above apply some Kroil and give it overnight to fully penetrate.
Use the correct type of punch.  For roll pins (these are actually tension pins) use a "roll pin" punch from Brownell's.  Again buy a starter punch type to get the pins moving and a longer one to fully remove.

If you suspect the pins have been distorted, and these almost surely were, buy new pins.

Use an appropriate size hammer.  Too small may not have enough inertia to do the job, but that doesn't mean using a nine pound sledge.

When working with pins don't just wail away and pound on it.  In most cases that will distort the pin and cause it to lock in place even tighter.

If these are simply too distorted to remove, then you can drill them out, but again, that's a job that requires a lot of care and your full attention to prevent damaging the lower receiver.
Link Posted: 10/27/2014 4:56:00 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 10/27/2014 7:59:41 PM EDT
[#7]
What they said.
Brownells sell a punch for the bolt catch.  I've got it and never used it.  Got all the roll pin punches and holders and they see some use.
Knipex pliars see a lot of use installing pins.  Much more control than a hammer and punch.
Link Posted: 10/27/2014 8:35:24 PM EDT
[#8]
Try one of these
Link Posted: 10/28/2014 4:23:58 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


This.

Or it's the "Stark Grip of Shame" for you.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
You need to be extremely careful removing the roll pin through the trigger guard.
A number of people have found out the hard way that the "ears" on the receiver will break right off if the receiver isn't well supported with a bench block.
Make sure the block has a hole big enough to allow the pin to move out.
The same goes when installing the pin.  Get it slightly crooked and the pin can contact the side of the ear and snap it right off.
Break an ear off and it's not repairable.
This is one of those jobs you need to be extremely careful with and pay close attention to what's going on.

Here's pointers on removing tight pins.

Use a "starter" pin punch.
This is just a pin punch cut off to about 1/2" inch working length.  This prevents the punch from bending or flexing and directs all the force to the pin.  If a standard length punch is used the force may be dissipated and cause the pin to distort, locking it tighter.
Once you have the pin moving, switch to a standard length punch.

Support the part with bench blocks, and put it on a SOLID surface.
If the part moves or bounces when struck, again the force is dissipated.
Either put it on a SOLID bench, or just put it on a concrete floor.
Have a buddy help hold it firmly in place.

As above apply some Kroil and give it overnight to fully penetrate.
Use the correct type of punch.  For roll pins (these are actually tension pins) use a "roll pin" punch from Brownell's.  Again buy a starter punch type to get the pins moving and a longer one to fully remove.

If you suspect the pins have been distorted, and these almost surely were, buy new pins.

Use an appropriate size hammer.  Too small may not have enough inertia to do the job, but that doesn't mean using a nine pound sledge.

When working with pins don't just wail away and pound on it.  In most cases that will distort the pin and cause it to lock in place even tighter.

If these are simply too distorted to remove, then you can drill them out, but again, that's a job that requires a lot of care and your full attention to prevent damaging the lower receiver.


This.

Or it's the "Stark Grip of Shame" for you.

I have one of those    
Link Posted: 10/29/2014 10:28:04 PM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 11/7/2014 9:37:08 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I have one of those    
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Or it's the "Stark Grip of Shame" for you.

I have one of those    

Well I think it looks kinda cool actually but the name is putting me off.
Link Posted: 11/7/2014 10:58:37 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You need to be extremely careful removing the roll pin through the trigger guard.
A number of people have found out the hard way that the "ears" on the receiver will break right off if the receiver isn't well supported with a bench block.
Make sure the block has a hole big enough to allow the pin to move out.
The same goes when installing the pin.  Get it slightly crooked and the pin can contact the side of the ear and snap it right off.
Break an ear off and it's not repairable.
This is one of those jobs you need to be extremely careful with and pay close attention to what's going on.

Here's pointers on removing tight pins.

Use a "starter" pin punch.
This is just a pin punch cut off to about 1/2" inch working length.  This prevents the punch from bending or flexing and directs all the force to the pin.  If a standard length punch is used the force may be dissipated and cause the pin to distort, locking it tighter.
Once you have the pin moving, switch to a standard length punch.

Support the part with bench blocks, and put it on a SOLID surface.
If the part moves or bounces when struck, again the force is dissipated.
Either put it on a SOLID bench, or just put it on a concrete floor.
Have a buddy help hold it firmly in place.

As above apply some Kroil and give it overnight to fully penetrate.
Use the correct type of punch.  For roll pins (these are actually tension pins) use a "roll pin" punch from Brownell's.  Again buy a starter punch type to get the pins moving and a longer one to fully remove.

If you suspect the pins have been distorted, and these almost surely were, buy new pins.

Use an appropriate size hammer.  Too small may not have enough inertia to do the job, but that doesn't mean using a nine pound sledge.

When working with pins don't just wail away and pound on it.  In most cases that will distort the pin and cause it to lock in place even tighter.

If these are simply too distorted to remove, then you can drill them out, but again, that's a job that requires a lot of care and your full attention to prevent damaging the lower receiver.
View Quote



^^^listen to this man.
The Wheel is wise.
Link Posted: 11/8/2014 1:23:37 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


^^^listen to this man.
The Wheel is wise.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
You need to be extremely careful removing the roll pin through the trigger guard.
A number of people have found out the hard way that the "ears" on the receiver will break right off if the receiver isn't well supported with a bench block.
Make sure the block has a hole big enough to allow the pin to move out.
The same goes when installing the pin.  Get it slightly crooked and the pin can contact the side of the ear and snap it right off.
Break an ear off and it's not repairable.
This is one of those jobs you need to be extremely careful with and pay close attention to what's going on.

Here's pointers on removing tight pins.

Use a "starter" pin punch.
This is just a pin punch cut off to about 1/2" inch working length.  This prevents the punch from bending or flexing and directs all the force to the pin.  If a standard length punch is used the force may be dissipated and cause the pin to distort, locking it tighter.
Once you have the pin moving, switch to a standard length punch.

Support the part with bench blocks, and put it on a SOLID surface.
If the part moves or bounces when struck, again the force is dissipated.
Either put it on a SOLID bench, or just put it on a concrete floor.
Have a buddy help hold it firmly in place.

As above apply some Kroil and give it overnight to fully penetrate.
Use the correct type of punch.  For roll pins (these are actually tension pins) use a "roll pin" punch from Brownell's.  Again buy a starter punch type to get the pins moving and a longer one to fully remove.

If you suspect the pins have been distorted, and these almost surely were, buy new pins.

Use an appropriate size hammer.  Too small may not have enough inertia to do the job, but that doesn't mean using a nine pound sledge.

When working with pins don't just wail away and pound on it.  In most cases that will distort the pin and cause it to lock in place even tighter.

If these are simply too distorted to remove, then you can drill them out, but again, that's a job that requires a lot of care and your full attention to prevent damaging the lower receiver.


^^^listen to this man.
The Wheel is wise.

Yes, all joking aside, I have taken note of that post and plan implement it on those damn stuck pins.
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