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Posted: 10/10/2014 7:46:36 PM EDT
I just made my workbench and topped it with pine plywood. Do I need to put a finish on it to protect it from solvents?  Any recommendations?  

Thanks,
Dan
Link Posted: 10/10/2014 9:19:26 PM EDT
[#1]
At the very least, multiple (thin) coats of paint.  Wipe up the mess as soon as you make it.  Add a paper towel holder as well.

A carpenter I know covered his with Formica (sp).  Mine is cheap ass zinc coated sheet metal
Link Posted: 10/11/2014 9:21:59 AM EDT
[#2]
Polyurethane. Like used on bar tops. Follow directions on can. Spray on is better, but brush on will do the job. LET IT CURE before you start to use it. Big mistake is for it not to be cured, work on it, chemicals strip off coating=you sand and redo. Speaking from experience.
Link Posted: 10/11/2014 2:00:44 PM EDT
[#3]
I am a cabinetmaker by trade, I would look into some of the new finishes they make for shop floors at the least. A better option would be a piece of laminate. Most cabinet shops will have a supply of pieces they aren't going to use and you can get them cheap. I have a 3" thick solid maple butcher block 30" x8ft that I have used for the last 20 years and still looks new, but it isn't for sale.
Link Posted: 10/11/2014 10:00:31 PM EDT
[#4]
My bench is a solid core door with a 3/4 particle board top.
Finished the top with 4 coats of MinWax Polyurethane.
Indestructible, scorched it on one corner welding an aluminum swing arm but otherwise after 7 years it is still as solid as the day I did it.
I use a rectangle of peel and stick in/outdoor carpet for the brunt of the working surface.
Link Posted: 10/11/2014 10:20:57 PM EDT
[#5]
I'd go with polyurethane too.  Cheap and effective.
Link Posted: 10/11/2014 10:44:30 PM EDT
[#6]
Mine is topped with a leftover piece of Gym Floor. 3/8ths thick, hard, but flexible rubber. Beat it, spill on it, its impervious. Made to drop barbells on.
Link Posted: 10/11/2014 10:59:35 PM EDT
[#7]
Mine bench top (solid core door) has several coats of polyurethane on it.  Held up very well lo these last 18 years.

Link Posted: 10/12/2014 7:44:50 PM EDT
[#8]
After I built my workbench I put a 1/4" piece of plywood on top and screwed it down around the edges. This allows me to remove and replace the relatively cheap 1/4" plywood top if it becomes dinged/chipped/stained. I have replace it 2 or three times in the last 6 years.
 
Link Posted: 10/12/2014 9:04:51 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks for all of the suggestions!  I went with some minwax polyurethane. Put 3 coats on today and will probably put another 2 on tomorrow.
Link Posted: 10/12/2014 10:45:03 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Thanks for all of the suggestions!  I went with some minwax polyurethane. Put 3 coats on today and will probably put another 2 on tomorrow.
View Quote



Put it on until it will not soak anymore into the top. Sand it with 120 orbital and give it one last coat.
Link Posted: 10/13/2014 9:25:03 AM EDT
[#11]
I covered mine with Brownells acraglas
Link Posted: 10/13/2014 2:01:06 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I covered mine with Brownells acraglas
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That's an expensive finish!
Link Posted: 10/13/2014 9:47:18 PM EDT
[#13]
I have 3 benches. 1 is 8'x2' and has a 2'x2' "L" at one end, 2nd is 4'x6' that sit in middle of shop, and 3rd one is 8'x2' sitting against opposite wall of first one. All are made of 2" maple chopping block and finished with poly. Bases are 2"x2"x .100" wall steel tubing. They take everything I throw at them and still look great.
Link Posted: 10/30/2014 12:56:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Counter top.




Link Posted: 11/8/2014 5:08:52 PM EDT
[#15]
I covered one of my benches with some peel and stick floor tiles. I got them for free. Had enough surplus to replace anything I damage. They have worked for about three years.
Link Posted: 11/21/2014 5:38:23 PM EDT
[#16]
To properly finish it, you need a big BFL decal, topped with clear epoxy
Link Posted: 11/21/2014 6:02:50 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
To properly finish it, you need a big BFL decal, topped with clear epoxy
View Quote


I like it.
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