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Posted: 10/8/2014 11:37:17 AM EDT
I have a 1983 manufactured Marlin 336CS I picked up cheap. I wanted something to work on for the heck of it.
I have dissembled and started the rust removal using oil and 0000 steel wool. The rust didn't look too bad but after serious rubbing with the oil and wool it appears to remain. The sides of the receiver are smooth but the top and bottom have a ruff texture and the rust seems to be in the pores maybe. Any suggestions I'm trying to save the bluing as much as possible. Do I need to kick it up a notch with something else like naval jelly or something?  </a>" />
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Posted: 10/8/2014 12:03:57 PM EDT
[#1]
If you get aggressive enough to remove all the rust, you'll need a reblue. you could also use a gun paint. I have had mixed results with the touch up blueing, never worked well for me.
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Posted: 10/8/2014 12:17:58 PM EDT
[#2]
I would start with WD-40 and a Green Scotch-Brite pad. Keep it wet w/ the WD.
I use this method on the bed of my mill and lathe ways. Will not remove metal, just the oxidation. Re-bluing would, most likely, be a nice finish. |
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Posted: 10/8/2014 9:29:06 PM EDT
[#3]
I'd try a 6"carding brush (wheel) from Brownells or Midway
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Posted: 10/8/2014 10:28:38 PM EDT
[#4]
I suspect that you are not going to be able to remove the rust without taking off the finish.
I've had some really good results rust bluing at home if you decide to clean it up and refinish it. |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 9:35:47 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I suspect that you are not going to be able to remove the rust without taking off the finish. I've had some really good results rust bluing at home if you decide to clean it up and refinish it. And you are exactly right. I had to get aggressive with some 3M pads to get the rust off without scratching it and the blueing is coming off. I have some Oxpho-Blue coming from Brownell's. If I'm not satisfied I'm looking into Duracote. I have to keep reminding myself this is $140 rifle that I'm working on for fun and I'm not going to put much money into it. So far all material I've used I already had on hand, which includes the stock refinishing stuffs. |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 12:40:30 PM EDT
[#6]
Get some of the Belgian blue from Brownell's and follow the directions for a beautiful rust blue that can be done on the kitchen stove.
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Posted: 10/9/2014 3:58:10 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Get some of the Belgian blue from Brownell's and follow the directions for a beautiful rust blue that can be done on the kitchen stove. This if you are willing to trade elbow grease for a beautiful , dark blue. Rust bluing at home is very inexpensive and can make a very nice, durable finish for a very low cost.. But it requires patience and hard work. It's all about the sanding, polishing and cleaning. Very simple process though, remove old finish, sand and polish, super clean, coat, boil, card repeat until satisfied. No spraying, baking , no toxic chemicals.(except the mildly acidic bluing solution) I actually quit using the Belgian Blue and now use Brownels Barrel Brown & Degreaser , which does the same job at 1/3 the cost. Browning is the same process as bluing, you just skip the boiling part. The agent can do either one. Same chemical, indistinguishable results. |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 10:04:21 PM EDT
[#8]
PR361
Not to be a smart ass. But how do you think browning equals blueing? Or did I miss something? |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 10:16:44 PM EDT
[#9]
Seems you're past the point of no return on saving the finish of the receiver?
Are you averse to electrolysis for any reason? I've never had much luck with doing touch up work on blueing. It always turns out splotchy. |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 10:26:35 PM EDT
[#10]
A Shot of the top of the receiver after rust(and bluing) gone. The rust was a lot worse then I thought and poor better lighting helped.
Are the black spots rust remains or stains? Does more need to be done?  " />
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Posted: 10/9/2014 10:40:56 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Seems you're past the point of no return on saving the finish of the receiver? Are you averse to electrolysis for any reason? I've never had much luck with doing touch up work on blueing. It always turns out splotchy. My first attempt so this is learning exercise. And yes I'm way past the point of no return. If the reblue dosn't turn out well and it's a good shooter I will probable Duracoat it in the future. Else it'll be a real beater for sticking under the truck seat. |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 11:55:42 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
PR361 Not to be a smart ass. But how do you think browning equals blueing? Or did I miss something? Browning is the first half of rust bluing. the prep is the same, but you card the red rust and keep re rusting until you are satisfied, then oil it. To blue, you boil the rusted steel , which converts the red oxide to black oxide, then re-rust and re-boil until you achieve the desired results. The same rusting agent will perform both processes, just dependent on what you do. But don't take my word for it, Go to Brownells and read up on it. ETA: Some Reading And delete sentence that sounded unintentionally curt. 
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Posted: 10/10/2014 9:55:02 PM EDT
[#13]
Nope, ( delete ) not going to do it. I''ve got R.H.Angier's book on the subject. Yet to have read it.
Thank's for the heads up. I'm going to try it |
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Posted: 10/11/2014 10:36:39 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A Shot of the top of the receiver after rust(and bluing) gone. The rust was a lot worse then I thought and poor better lighting helped. Are the black spots rust remains or stains? Does more need to be done? http://<a href=http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u449/franktrammell/CAM00078.jpg</a>" /> Personally, I would sand out the rust spots. They WILL be visible if you re-blue over them. I would start with a paper that will cut the rust, 220 or 180 if you have to. Then work your way back to a 320 for a matte blue, out to 600 if you want shiny. You can do a lot with some careful sanding. Here's a friends that I'm restoring for him. Haven't blued it because he wants to color case harden it, and he still has to fit the stocks. 
Waiting to do the final sanding right before finishing it. Use sanding blocks, popsicle sticks, I even wrap files in sand paper, whatever it takes to keep the squares square. I have found it's often better , especially on small flats, to put the paper on a large flat surface and move the part, maintaining enough pressure to keep it square. I also use files on severely pitted parts. It takes a LOT of sanding to move a receiver out of spec, you can remove a lot of pitting and rust and still be in tolerance. The Rifle above has been reassembled and test fired in the white, it functions fine. Just don't sand on the INSIDE! 
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Posted: 10/12/2014 4:41:17 PM EDT
[#15]
Just a couple photos to show what you can do for a few bucks and some patience;
The first photo is my initial bluing solution, which worked great, Brownells version of Belgian Blue 
I used it all in my learning curve, and it was out of stock, so I bought the Browning solution instead 
The final results, using two solutions, resulted in a uniform black/blue 
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Posted: 10/12/2014 7:35:44 PM EDT
[#16]
I have had good luck with Electrolytic rust removal on old woodworking equipment. I have not tried this on firearms but would have no reservations in trying it.
You can do this at home in your garage with basic equipment that you probably already have. Check out the instructable at http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ |
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Posted: 10/12/2014 8:42:27 PM EDT
[#17]
I've seen someting similar for cleaning up old cast iron pans and pots. I involved a 12V charger, plastic dish rack in a plastic container. Over a sheet
of aluminum foil. Can't remember how the leads where hooked up (+ ? to -? ) but one was attached to each, one lead to the foil and collected the debris. Don't recall any additive to the water. The instruction's were found on line Thanks |
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Posted: 10/12/2014 9:36:08 PM EDT
[#18]
Electrolysis is a great way to get rust off of steel. I've used it, it's great, especially for small parts that are difficult to hit with a wire brush or sand paper.
You will still need to sand and polish for a nice clean surface. the Electrolysis process removes the bulk of the rust, but still leaves the surface stained. |
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Posted: 10/14/2014 4:35:25 PM EDT
[#19]
For cold bluing, I like the Birchwood Casey paste. I get a nice black finish, but I generally use up to 10 applications.
I alternate applications of the paste blue with Brownell's Oxpho Blue; my "theory" is that it provides a tougher finish, and there's a good chance that I'm kidding myself, but I have had good luck with the process in any case. I bought a nice rust bluing tank just aching for a project, but I need the time more than I need another project. It came with a gun, and the price was too good to pass up. |
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Posted: 10/14/2014 11:08:38 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've seen someting similar for cleaning up old cast iron pans and pots. I involved a 12V charger, plastic dish rack in a plastic container. Over a sheet of aluminum foil. Can't remember how the leads where hooked up (+ ? to -? ) but one was attached to each, one lead to the foil and collected the debris. Don't recall any additive to the water. The instruction's were found on line Thanks (-) lead to work piece (+) lead to sacrificial anode. I use old rebar. Sodium carbonate (baking soda) for the the electrolyte solution. 
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Posted: 10/14/2014 11:39:06 PM EDT
[#21]
I have been using stainless steal wool, and also have a large brush made of the same for those projects.
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Posted: 10/21/2014 7:20:23 PM EDT
[#22]
All finished. Turned out pretty well, NOT perfect, but good enough for a first attempt at bluing. The wood turned out great, I have done that many times. I'm pretty satisfied for a $140 gun.
I didn't put any more money into the gun. It came with Williams fire sights which I do not like. I think they are cheap. They break easy. I broke a ring off the front sight getting it off. Propping it up in the corner could cause a break if it slides around. It still needs some touch on the bluing in spots. Maybe one day when I get set up I'll do a black Durcoate on it.  " />
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:04:02 PM EDT
[#23]
Look's good. What method did you use?
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Posted: 10/21/2014 10:13:33 PM EDT
[#24]
GNRNR. Not a grave robber are you? That pistol looked like it came from one. I've got more than few question's about this
FRA_TRA's looked like mild to moderate surface rust. Look's better now. The same pic's, from the same angles, would be better. PR361's looked like it'd been in a fire. So as not to high jack a thread (rifle). You might want to start a new thread, unless the mod's don't object. I've got more than a few M98's that are in a sad state (below the stock line), worse yet all the #'s match! Got a battery charger and nothing to lose. Thanks |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 10:45:25 PM EDT
[#25]
Good Eye, 458, the 94 was the victim of a house fire. Being restored as a family heirloom.
Gun looks good OP! Nice Job! 
I'm guessing cold blue based on the color. 
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Posted: 10/21/2014 11:42:59 PM EDT
[#26]
Not going to try to shoot that thing are you?
When you re-stock it, forget the white line spacers. Unless you like the bling. Thanks, I'm a $100 poorer |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 11:33:29 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not going to try to shoot that thing are you? When you re-stock it, forget the white line spacers. Unless you like the bling. Thanks, I'm a $100 poorer Was this for me? Yes I shot it and it shoots and functions great. Post refinish.  " />
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Posted: 10/23/2014 9:18:37 PM EDT
[#28]
Around here, it's not always about you.
This was directed to PR361, for the added info. You. It looks good. It'd look better with out the white line spacers |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 11:37:10 PM EDT
[#29]
As to the 94, it has been reassembled with a new barrel, bolt and internals and test fired for function.
The receiver, hammer and a few parts like barrel bands, magazine follower, cartridge lifter, are all that remain of the original gun. The receiver will ultimately be Color case hardened to at least partially restore some carbonization and surface hardness. The 94 receivers are not all that hard to begin with, and the gun will never be a regular shooter or range toy. It already has a large Cypress plank awaiting it on my friends wall, where it will spend it's future as a revered, fully functional family heirloom. I plan to do a thread about it when it's finally finished, a process on hold for the time being due to my friend being otherwise occupied with his business start-up. Sorry for the hijack OP, your rifle turned out great, you have a nice shooter there. I find great joy in shooting older firearms that I've " brought back to life" as it were, I'm sure you will too.
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Posted: 10/28/2014 12:19:05 PM EDT
[#30]
That looks really good!
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