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Medic08
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Posted: 6/6/2013 7:55:20 PM
I am working on an 80% lower and I somehow got the selector hole a little low. I haven't measured how far odd it is but it is enough to cause function problems. Like when the hammer is released from the sear it does not catch on the trigger. There for bad things can happen. So my question is can that hole be tig welded back up and redrilled like the hammer and trigger pin holes? It is a 6061 billet lower. Thanks for any advise.
Dan_Gray
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Posted: 6/6/2013 7:58:16 PM
I would guess that it would be cheaper to buy a new one. Having it welded then returned to original spec won't be cheap.
crazyelece
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Posted: 6/6/2013 9:34:11 PM
6061 is very nice to weld (at least according to the guys I know who weld Al). 7075 and you'd be screwed. Can't hurt to take it to the weld shop, it's already dicked up so you can't make it worse!
Throwsabender
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Posted: 6/7/2013 1:45:53 AM
Originally Posted By Dan_Gray:
I would guess that it would be cheaper to buy a new one. Having it welded then returned to original spec won't be cheap.


I'm thinking this route. Welding expense, re-cutting the exterior side to bring flush with rest of receiver is another shop and time spent. Park it and use it for next build.
Are you using the drill press method or do you have a mill?
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Heatnbeat
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Posted: 6/7/2013 9:00:51 PM
I'm not sure the selector hole being low is causing your function problems. The selector on a semi auto only contacts the trigger tail when it's on safe and the triger is pulled. When in fire mode the selector does nothing at all. I have one lower that I'm not even running a selector in and it has no functional problems.
Circuits
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Posted: 6/7/2013 9:25:49 PM
Originally Posted By Heatnbeat:
I'm not sure the selector hole being low is causing your function problems. The selector on a semi auto only contacts the trigger tail when it's on safe and the triger is pulled. When in fire mode the selector does nothing at all. I have one lower that I'm not even running a selector in and it has no functional problems.


Not quite correct. In fire the selector prevents excess trigger overtravel, which interferes with proper disconnector function.

If you are in fact running with no selector installed, you're fortunate not to be experiencing hammer follow.
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Medic08
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Posted: 6/8/2013 7:22:30 AM
It turns out it really wasn't the problem. I had the disconnector spring in upside down making the travel of the disconnector very stiff. Flipped it over and she works well. Thanks for all the responses.
RDTCU
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Posted: 6/8/2013 7:26:11 AM
[Last Edit: 6/8/2013 7:26:48 AM by RDTCU]
Originally Posted By Dan_Gray:
I would guess that it would be cheaper to buy a new one. Having it welded then returned to original spec won't be cheap.


This, unless you've got a friend or a welder. You could turn up a round slug and drive it in with some epoxy, then re-mill/drill, hoping it holds.

I don't see how the selector being too LOW would prevent the trigger from properly resetting.
It could prevent it from firing, but the problem you're describing sounds like it's not just the selector that's off...

ETA just saw your response, good.
OTTOSEAR
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Posted: 6/8/2013 3:20:25 PM
I would drill it larger, and press and re drill a new sleeve out of mild steel.
RDTCU
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Posted: 6/8/2013 3:28:01 PM
Originally Posted By OTTOSEAR:
I would drill it larger, and press and re drill a new sleeve out of mild steel.


Originally Posted By Medic08:
It turns out it really wasn't the problem. I had the disconnector spring in upside down making the travel of the disconnector very stiff. Flipped it over and she works well. Thanks for all the responses.

Medic08
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Posted: 6/8/2013 8:05:41 PM
It functions fine but that sucker is real easy to bumpfire that is for sure. No over travel in that trigger at all. I may mill the flat part of the selector a little to give it some more over travel just to be safe.
RDTCU
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Posted: 6/8/2013 8:11:11 PM
Originally Posted By Medic08:
It functions fine but that sucker is real easy to bumpfire that is for sure. No over travel in that trigger at all. I may mill the flat part of the selector a little to give it some more over travel just to be safe.


If you mean the tail where it contacts the safety, that should do it, just don't go so far that the disconnector bottoms out when the hammer comes back.
Medic08
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Posted: 6/8/2013 8:59:03 PM
I was meaning the flat area on the safety. If I mill the back of the trigger down I run the risk of it firing in safe position.
RDTCU
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Posted: 6/8/2013 9:15:47 PM
Originally Posted By Medic08:
I was meaning the flat area on the safety. If I mill the back of the trigger down I run the risk of it firing in safe position.


True, if you can still switch the selector to safe with it being lower, you would be better off tweaking the selector.