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Posted: 2/8/2012 7:54:40 PM
Originally Posted By Donner_und_Blitzen:
After 20+ years of running Bridgeports they still make my head hurt. I 've used the electronic edge finders but prefer the old Starrett wiggler http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2278 I did grab a cheap set of wigglers. I haven't tried them out yet, but may have to, as the electronic one is backordered at Enco. |
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Posted: 2/8/2012 9:59:17 PM
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By Donner_und_Blitzen:
After 20+ years of running Bridgeports they still make my head hurt. I 've used the electronic edge finders but prefer the old Starrett wiggler http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2278 I did grab a cheap set of wigglers. I haven't tried them out yet, but may have to, as the electronic one is backordered at Enco. I haven't use my electronic one in a couple of years, and I bet the battery is dead by now. Some of the old tools and hard to beat. |
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Posted: 2/8/2012 10:01:15 PM
Originally Posted By Donner_und_Blitzen:
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By Donner_und_Blitzen:
After 20+ years of running Bridgeports they still make my head hurt. I 've used the electronic edge finders but prefer the old Starrett wiggler http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2278 I did grab a cheap set of wigglers. I haven't tried them out yet, but may have to, as the electronic one is backordered at Enco. I haven't use my electronic one in a couple of years, and I bet the battery is dead by now. Some of the old tools and hard to beat. No joke. My Starrett was $20, repeats to a half, and is maintenance free. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 2/9/2012 12:17:59 AM
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Posted: 2/9/2012 7:59:19 PM
Your DRO link isn't working quite right. Those UNIQ DROs are good, I have one on my Bridgeport. I hope you got a 3 axis version, a DRO on only X and Y without the Z (knee) is somewhat crippling. Remember that the Z is where you will be doing your precision milling, and the quill will really only be used in drilling. The Quill DROs are also handy, my Bridgeport has the Mitotoyo one and it's helpful for drilling to exact depths setting the quill stop. Remember of course to lock the quill when milling.
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Posted: 2/9/2012 9:11:11 PM
Originally Posted By wp6529:
. I hope you got a 3 axis version, a DRO on only X and Y without the Z (knee) is somewhat crippling... lol, ok. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 2/9/2012 9:48:19 PM
Originally Posted By Cole2534:
Originally Posted By wp6529:
. I hope you got a 3 axis version, a DRO on only X and Y without the Z (knee) is somewhat crippling... lol, ok. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile ? Sure you can use the handwheel just like you can on the X and Y, but if you're getting a DRO it certainly makes sense to equip all three axes. Kinda like those cars with only a left side mirror - WTF? |
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Posted: 2/10/2012 12:15:52 PM
[Last Edit: 2/10/2012 12:18:04 PM by xmission]
Originally Posted By wp6529:
Your DRO link isn't working quite right. Those UNIQ DROs are good, I have one on my Bridgeport. I hope you got a 3 axis version, a DRO on only X and Y without the Z (knee) is somewhat crippling. Remember that the Z is where you will be doing your precision milling, and the quill will really only be used in drilling. The Quill DROs are also handy, my Bridgeport has the Mitotoyo one and it's helpful for drilling to exact depths setting the quill stop. Remember of course to lock the quill when milling. Unfortunately I only got the two axis. I felt like the knee adjustment was very accurate, and that I could trust myself to keep track of it. Having said that, If I do want the three axis, I can just but a three axis, mount one of the scales on the bridgeport, and move the display unit over to the lathe. ETA: Edited because I'm mixing in elevator words instead of machinist words. |
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Posted: 2/10/2012 7:04:13 PM
Well, I thought I wasn't going to get this done until Sunday, but I got the bug this afternoon. |
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Posted: 2/10/2012 9:46:45 PM
Nice!
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 2:26:44 PM
Any updates?
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Posted: 2/12/2012 7:22:08 PM
I've been playing around with the mill allot. It's really cool having a dro now.
This week, I'll buy a couple of pieces of 1/2" aluminum plate and a 1 3/16 tap, and next weekend I think I'll have everything I need to try a cutting a forged lower. Should be interesting. I have 3, and if it goes well, I'll cut one, my neighbor will cut one, and his 10 year old son will cut the lower for his first AR. Pretty cool huh? |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 7:32:48 PM
Im finishing one up too.
Use the the Ray Vin tutorial, for sure. You need some fairly expensive tools to do one with great results, but it's very rewarding. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 7:54:35 PM
Originally Posted By Cole2534:
Im finishing one up too. Use the the Ray Vin tutorial, for sure. You need some fairly expensive tools to do one with great results, but it's very rewarding. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I plan on using that tutorial for sure. I'm no where near good enough to pull this off without it. Oh, I did finally get the cuts that I was having trouble figuring done. The dro didn't really help, other than having a big calculator right there. I had to draw it out on paper in order to get it figured, and then do a little trig. I was within a few thousands, which was acceptable. |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 9:19:46 PM
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By Cole2534:
Im finishing one up too. Use the the Ray Vin tutorial, for sure. You need some fairly expensive tools to do one with great results, but it's very rewarding. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I plan on using that tutorial for sure. I'm no where near good enough to pull this off without it. Oh, I did finally get the cuts that I was having trouble figuring done. The dro didn't really help, other than having a big calculator right there. I had to draw it out on paper in order to get it figured, and then do a little trig. I was within a few thousands, which was acceptable. Welcome to machining. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 9:50:06 PM
Use the Ray-Vin tutorial and read it through several times before you even machine the fixture plates. What I did that helped a lot in instruction my friends through machining their lowers was to make a lot of notes as I worked through the first one, clarifying some of the steps in the Ray-Vin doc. I made notations on the math for the steps, and I numbered each step and I numbered the compartments in some plastic parts cases and put the tooling for each step in it's own numbered compartment. Some steps reference tools from previous steps since I didn't duplicate tooling, but it really goes a long way towards organizing and avoiding errors.
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Posted: 2/13/2012 3:07:02 PM
Originally Posted By wp6529:
Use the Ray-Vin tutorial and read it through several times before you even machine the fixture plates. What I did that helped a lot in instruction my friends through machining their lowers was to make a lot of notes as I worked through the first one, clarifying some of the steps in the Ray-Vin doc. I made notations on the math for the steps, and I numbered each step and I numbered the compartments in some plastic parts cases and put the tooling for each step in it's own numbered compartment. Some steps reference tools from previous steps since I didn't duplicate tooling, but it really goes a long way towards organizing and avoiding errors. http://wpnet.us/30_tools.jpg Awesome. Thanks very much. |
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Posted: 2/15/2012 7:20:46 PM
[Last Edit: 2/15/2012 7:21:23 PM by xmission]
I did this plate tonight. I now need to figure out how to put an offset into the DRO after I find an edge. I did it tonight by moving the bed by the offset amount, and then zeroing again. I know there is a function, but the chinglish also makes my head hurt :) Tomorrow night I do the passenger side. I couldn't figure out a good way to cut the 10 degree angle along the bottom, except to stick the majority of the piece out of the vise, and to rotate it to 10 degrees. Definitely not ideal. The surface leaves something to be desired, but it doesn't really matter here.I'll touch it up by hand. Hey, the lower fits! |
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Posted: 2/15/2012 7:37:56 PM
That angle is for relief, so it's arbitrary so long as the lower fits.
I do my offset the same as you. We're stacking errors, but we will probably never notice. Have fun with your build! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 2/15/2012 9:09:15 PM
Originally Posted By xmission:
I did this plate tonight. I now need to figure out how to put an offset into the DRO after I find an edge. I did it tonight by moving the bed by the offset amount, and then zeroing again. I know there is a function, but the chinglish also makes my head hurt :) In many DROs you can just,for example, touch off in X with your edgefiner -> press the "X" button on the dro. It will probably go blank. Then just type ".1" then press enter or whatever. Basically press the axis button, enter the coordinate of where it "is" at that time and press enter. |
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Posted: 2/15/2012 9:15:58 PM
[Last Edit: 2/16/2012 7:02:01 PM by xmission]
Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:
Originally Posted By xmission:
I did this plate tonight. I now need to figure out how to put an offset into the DRO after I find an edge. I did it tonight by moving the bed by the offset amount, and then zeroing again. I know there is a function, but the chinglish also makes my head hurt :) In many DROs you can just,for example, touch off in X with your edgefiner -> press the "X" button on the dro. It will probably go blank. Then just type ".1" then press enter or whatever. Basically press the axis button, enter the coordinate of where it "is" at that time and press enter. Thanks. I'll give it a shot. ETA: That works. Thanks very much! |
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Posted: 2/17/2012 3:11:37 PM
[Last Edit: 2/17/2012 3:12:14 PM by Gun_Crank]
Originally Posted By xmission:
I've been playing around with the mill allot. It's really cool having a dro now. This week, I'll buy a couple of pieces of 1/2" aluminum plate and a 1 3/16 tap, and next weekend I think I'll have everything I need to try a cutting a forged lower. Should be interesting. I have 3, and if it goes well, I'll cut one, my neighbor will cut one, and his 10 year old son will cut the lower for his first AR. Pretty cool huh? My scrap pile is looking pretty bad right now. Instead of me throwing it in the recycling bin, IM me your address, and I'll ship you some. AeroE I haven't forgotton about yours either. I have been busier than one man should be. ETA: Nice looking B-port. Keep the pics comming. |
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Posted: 2/17/2012 3:52:50 PM
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By xmission:
I've been playing around with the mill allot. It's really cool having a dro now. This week, I'll buy a couple of pieces of 1/2" aluminum plate and a 1 3/16 tap, and next weekend I think I'll have everything I need to try a cutting a forged lower. Should be interesting. I have 3, and if it goes well, I'll cut one, my neighbor will cut one, and his 10 year old son will cut the lower for his first AR. Pretty cool huh? My scrap pile is looking pretty bad right now. Instead of me throwing it in the recycling bin, IM me your address, and I'll ship you some. AeroE I haven't forgotton about yours either. I have been busier than one man should be. ETA: Nice looking B-port. Keep the pics comming. Ill PayPal you some cash for a box. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 2/17/2012 5:02:04 PM
Originally Posted By Cole2534:
Ill PayPal you some cash for a box. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile ![]() |
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Posted: 2/17/2012 5:13:40 PM
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
My scrap pile is looking pretty bad right now. Instead of me throwing it in the recycling bin, IM me your address, and I'll ship you some. ETA: Nice looking B-port. Keep the pics comming. Thanks very much. Very generous of you. |
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