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Working on the final inleting of the action and bottom metal now, and finishing the stock. I decided to add a california/Bishop style cap to the pistol grip. My buddy that I got the rifle from hates it, he's a classic stock kind of guy. Oh well, he had 20 years to make his own , never got to it...
I figure if I hate it I can grind it off and go back to a classic pistol grip Planning to do an endcap on the forend next. Attached File |
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More stock work while I'm waiting on a
High hopes! Attached File Turns out MY right thumb has a lot of uses! I couldn't resist taking a sanding block to the joint while the glue was setting to see how the joint looked, and managed to catch my thumbnail on the plywood and rip it partially from the bed. Damn that HURTS! |
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what look are you going for with the stock? Are you keeping the original, military-type stock or more of a "sporter" config?
I'm just curious. There seems to be a trend back toward the original look. I am sitting on a closetfull of sporterized mausers in various states of disrepair..... Also, are you keeping it in 8mm or going to a more modern cartridge? |
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Not fly enough to be halal....
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Well, I'm happy with the results, my first attempt to do an endcap on a stock.
Now I'm looking around the shop nto see who else needs one! Attached File |
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Originally Posted By TxRabbitBane:
what look are you going for with the stock? Are you keeping the original, military-type stock or more of a "sporter" config? I'm just curious. There seems to be a trend back toward the original look. I am sitting on a closetfull of sporterized mausers in various states of disrepair..... Also, are you keeping it in 8mm or going to a more modern cartridge? If you read the thread, your questions will be anwered.... |
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Originally Posted By PR361:
Originally Posted By TxRabbitBane:
what look are you going for with the stock? Are you keeping the original, military-type stock or more of a "sporter" config? I'm just curious. There seems to be a trend back toward the original look. I am sitting on a closetfull of sporterized mausers in various states of disrepair..... Also, are you keeping it in 8mm or going to a more modern cartridge? If you read the thread, your questions will be anwered.... I just look at the pretty pictures. Saw the note about the calibre. That's one question answered at least.... |
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Not fly enough to be halal....
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It`s looking real good. By the way, what kind of wood is the end cap?
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Bought it off ebay as cocobolo. Maybe it is
I think it will set off the walnut once it;s finished though. |
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It's the little things.....
Attached File More stock inletting to do now. I've beeen waiting on a barrel...... |
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Beware of the JERRY KUHNHAUSEN book on Mausers.
His book on double action Colt revolvers is THE book on the subject. His book on Mausers is worse than no book. It might lead to heat treat or bolt face clean up. |
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Nice project - looking good!
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"Everybody's gotta die sometime Red"
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Originally Posted By Clarkma:
Beware of the JERRY KUHNHAUSEN book on Mausers. His book on double action Colt revolvers is THE book on the subject. His book on Mausers is worse than no book. It might lead to heat treat or bolt face clean up. Uh-oh... Actually, I take everything with a grain of salt, check multiple sources, then decide what I feel comfortable with. But I do have his book. |
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Originally Posted By sandblaster:
Nice project - looking good! Thanks! |
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I've been fitting and inleting the trigger, had to cut out for the safety, and file the bottom metal for clearance. Then it hit the trigger guard.
Attached File Turns out the bold sits further back toward the pistol grip than a standard military trigger. Which is good. So I had to reform the trigger guard, which turns out to be maybe cast, and I managed to crack while cold hammering it.[:// Got it hot to finish and the cracks are tiny, but since I also managed to get the screw hole off center, I'm shopping for a replacement trigger guard. This one will do, but at some point it will be replaced. As I said at the beginning, I'll probably make some huge mistakes, but I'm learning a lot about building rifles! I've tinkered with'em all my life, a little inleting here, a barrel swap there, accurizing, bolt truing, but this is my first ground up build. Steep learning curve for me.... Silver soldered a nut to attach trigger guard, the military one was cut away for the curvy replacement Attached File Inleting for the safety here, I made it rather large, but I wanted a VERY Positive movement of the safety with zero interference., also made the clearance cut for the bolt. Attached File On to final sanding, stock checkering, and bottom metal finishing! |
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Uncle
Sam's Misguided Children |
That's a nice rifle. Mine is more of a low budget DIY kind of rifle |
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Little League is over, Girl Scouts is wrapping up and schools almost over. Now if I could just figure out how ER Shaw measures time.....Has it been three or four months since Mid January yet?
I'm a little fish in their pond, but I wish my barrel would show up! Found a little shop time and got the bottom metal ready for bluing.... Attached File And started the final stock work, inletting the European style sling swivels and sanding. Attached File |
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Finally got the bottom metal blued and assembled, I'm happy with how it turned out.
Finished sanding and inleting the stock, and got on the first coat of oil. I'm practicing chechering on some old pieces, whenI get my nerve up I'll checker the grips on this one. Almost there! Attached File Where's the barrel.... Edited to filter out Bourbon |
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Looking very nice! The bluing is excellent.
I have a question, though. Is the trigger guard remove-able and do you have a rear action screw? |
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Thanks
Thr rust bluing is really ideal for the home gunsmith, it's all about polishing, cleaning the metal, and taking your time. The experience of doing this gun has made me quite confident using it.. The trigger Guard unscrews, you remove the wood screw in the grip and rotate it out of the way to access the rear action screw. Scroll back towards the top of the page and you will see the 1/4-28 nut I silver soldered inside the bottom metal. |
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Originally Posted By PR361:
Thanks Thr rust bluing is really ideal for the home gunsmith, it's all about polishing, cleaning the metal, and taking your time. The experience of doing this gun has made me quite confident using it.. The trigger Guard unscrews, you remove the wood screw in the grip and rotate it out of the way to access the rear action screw. Scroll back towards the top of the page and you will see the 1/4-28 nut I silver soldered inside the bottom metal. Ah. I see. Its all clear now :) |
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Happiness & Joy!
I was tinkering around, bluing the final small parts, the sling swivel mounts and screws, extractor collar, etc. Came in the house and for the 100th time in the last 2 months, peeked out on the porch and WOOHOO! the UPS man snuck in and out while I was in the shop! When I ordered this in January, the rifle was a work in progress, what I knew was that I wanted a heavy Barrel, and an accurate rifle. Better to big than too small I say! Yes, I know, it's to big..... Attached File I briefly considered a Target stock from Boyds, But the rifle I envisioned is almost done, so Me & Nieghbor are going to measure, and chuck it in the lathe and profile it to just fit in the available wood. Custom Rifle INDEED! |
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Rainy Saturdays were made for machining...
Attached File And don't let yer knuckles get to close , knuckle head! Barrel is contoured and fitted to the reciever. The Muzzle is .80, .80 to the wood, then a straight taper to the reciever at 1.2. My nieghbor and I's first nime out contouring a barell, so we kept it simple. I'm very pleased with the final shape, It's about as heavy as I could make it and still have some wood left on the stock. We also fit the barrel to the reciever, nieghbors first time out on that too, and he hit it dead nuts on the first try. Well, two or three cuts and test fits, but the final " guestemate fit hand tight on the C ring with .015 clearence at the shoulder. Should torque to a perfect fit, with most of the load on the C ring, which is the primary torque shoulder. Off to inlet the stock for the barrel, blue the barrel, and order the reamer! |
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Attached File Test blueing the 8mm barrel that has been our practice piece. I'm using a different product, as Brownells has been out of the Classic Rust Blue for months, and I don't think I have enough left to do the barrel. So I have Laurel Mountain Browning solution, which can also be used for blueing. Hopefully the color match will be indistinguishable. Stove top blueing Attached File |
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So how did it turn out? Color matched?
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Perfect!
I actually was so happy with it that I immediately started the process on my 6.5 Barrel. The first rust is done and I plan on finishing it over the next two days when I get off shift. Once the barrel is blued, the rifle will be ready for final assembly, then I'll order the reamer from 4D rentals. I'm looking at shooting in a couple of weeks I hope. I'll have some pictures up in a day or so..... |
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I'm using This product from Brownells now, it;s not listed in the blueing but rather under browning products. Reading the instructions reveals that browning and bluing are bacically the same process, browning is carded off without boiling, boiling in distilled water converts the brown/red oxide to black oxide, or blue. This bottle comes with instructions for blueing or browning, and is cheaper tha the rust blues, less than $10 for the 4 oz bottle, 2-3 guns worth.
It also seems to have a slightly bluer color.... Attached File My E.R. Shaw barrel is boiling down it's second rust as I type this.... |
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I like it. Waiting for more updates
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I put five or six layers of blue on the ER Shaw barrel. It looked OK, but a lighter matte finish than the reciever. Magnafying glass revealed tiny pitting in the metal. I put the rifle together , and it looked alright, but not great. Talked it over and decided to chuck it back in the lathe and run the 400 grit on it until it's shiny and start over. I was discussing it with the owner of th local funshop, and he gave me some sage advice; He said " at some point you should put it all together and make sure it shoots before you spend too much time making it pretty." I ignored him! |
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start with 400 grit spray some wd40 on the barrel while its in the lathe spining. then work the paper back and forth, then drop to 600 grit after cleaning everything off. best way is with a buffer and barrel spinner. use a set of brass center covers so you dont screw up teh crown and chamber.
Very nice job on the floor plate. |
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Blah blah blah..
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Nice
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Mencken said : "Every normal man must be tempted at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." Welcome to the 'New Normal' |
Originally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
start with 400 grit spray some wd40 on the barrel while its in the lathe spining. then work the paper back and forth, then drop to 600 grit after cleaning everything off. best way is with a buffer and barrel spinner. use a set of brass center covers so you dont screw up teh crown and chamber. Very nice job on the floor plate. Almost exactly what we did! Only I didn't use WD or any oil, I'm trying to keep it oil free for the blue, and we had to go down to 120 and work back up. Once the blue was stripped, the matte finish was revealed by magnifying glass to be a uniform pitting and 400 only ran across the top of it. So a deep cut was neccesary to get rid of the pits, then 220, 320, 400, 600. The lathe is an awsome tool for barrel polishing! Nieghbor had previously made a nice set of aluminum center covers for the profiling. So a do over for the barrel bluing, I'm going lighter on the blueing this time, and shorter rusts, hopefully avoiding my previous pitfalls.... Todays a perfect day, raining all day, so nice and humid for quick rusts without a cabinet. Thanks for the compliments! |
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Ya know if you want, I'll hot blue it if you have it ready to dunk, and pay shipping. I'm getting ready to run a batch in a few weeks.
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Blah blah blah..
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Originally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
Ya know if you want, I'll hot blue it if you have it ready to dunk, and pay shipping. I'm getting ready to run a batch in a few weeks. Whaat! Stop pounding my head against the brick wall when I've almost pounded through?! I might take that offer if I have another failure. I'm considering that I might need to change the water after every boil, it was looking good on the second effort, then got all spotty on the fourth rust. I'm going to give it one more go, I'd like to be able to say I did the whole thing at home and have a matching rust blue on the whole gun. Thank you very much though and I may take your offer yet..... |
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Originally Posted By PR361:
Originally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
Ya know if you want, I'll hot blue it if you have it ready to dunk, and pay shipping. I'm getting ready to run a batch in a few weeks. Whaat! Stop pounding my head against the brick wall when I've almost pounded through?! I might take that offer if I have another failure. I'm considering that I might need to change the water after every boil, it was looking good on the second effort, then got all spotty on the fourth rust. I'm going to give it one more go, I'd like to be able to say I did the whole thing at home and have a matching rust blue on the whole gun. Thank you very much though and I may take your offer yet..... We tried rust bluing on a few old double shotguns due to the low melting point solder that was used in barrel construction. always turned out meh. so we are at the point now we are quick dipping them in hot blue, then a pop into a cool water tank. then back in the blue. Its a PITA, but the finish looks so much better. |
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Blah blah blah..
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Finally Attached File
A lot of repolishing, recleaning, and re-rusting, but I'm finally satisfied. It still has a slight fade at the chamber if you look close in strong light, but "goodnuff" for me, over all a nice dark black/blue, with a decent shine.[img]http://www.ar15.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" /> On to final assembly, once I'm happy that all is well and the action and barrel are prperly fitted, I'll order the reamer for final chamber reaming to headspace. It's currently a short chambered 6.5 X 55 Swede, it will be reamed to 6.5 X 55 BJ Ackley Improved. |
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Looking good. Can't wait to see it all together and how it shoots.
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Have you squared the reciever face on a mandrel between centers? That needs to be done & might be the problem. I'm only talking about taking just enough from the face for it to clear up true .002 to .004 is usually enough.
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All the parts have been trued on the lathe. I don't think there's a problem, I'm getting good contact on the C ring, I'm just asking if anybody with Mauser experience sees a problem that I'm missing before I lock this thing together permanently....
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Surprised with only 0.0015 gap it didn't close up. Have to ask, with that small a gap can you get a feeler gauge in there? If you have the gap at the front ring down to an amount that you want, you should be good to go to put the barrel on.
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My Nieghbor Machinest turned a lapping mandrel for the end of the barrel and we lapped the contact area until we can no longer get a .001 feeler between the shoulder and the reciever, Getting good contact and good transfer of Dykem on the C-ring, no contact transfer on the shoulder, but no gap. I'm pretty sure that the front shulder is lightly contacting the reciever.
I think Im just going go with it and order the reamer |
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Few little odds and ends to finish up, Travel plans mean I wont have time to ream the chamber until the week of the 23rd, so I'm making sure everything else is finished.
This Rifle is going to hunt Antelope , so it needs to support a bipod. The sling swivle came with machined, knurled nuts to be countersunk in the barrel channel, but given the weight of this barrel and my previous experiences of abusing the equipment, I'm going a little heavier duty. I made a steel backer plate from some scrap tubing, getting the final shaping and inletting done. It will be blued, drilled and tapped to accept the machine screws that hold the front sling swivel, and epoxied in. Attached File Little by little |
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Getting close!
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Together Forever!
Attached File I hope! I'm ordering the reamer the last week of July when I return from Vacation. Hopefully it's going BANG in August! |
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Won't you have to pull the barrel to chamber it?
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It's already short chambered as a 6.5 X 55 Swede, I'm reaming to 6.5 X 55 BJ Ackley Improved, which is .004 shorter than the Swede, So hopefully, I'll just be opening the chamber and headspacing.
I'm still learning, so I might be in for a suprise! But not a big deal to pull the barrel. |
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Kimber: The gun you show your friends.
Glock: the gun you show your enemies... |
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