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Posted: 6/5/2017 11:45:00 AM EDT
[#1]
Awesome. Good to see TP9 owners working together!
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Posted: 6/5/2017 11:49:55 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Awesome. Good to see TP9 owners working together! |
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Posted: 6/6/2017 8:18:03 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ordered the first prototype! 
Pricing and ordering info should be out soon. Pics to come once I get the grip. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 10:26:46 PM EDT
[#4]
I got the prototype intoday!!
I already see a few areas that I want to change on it. 
The neck looks a little slim. I didn't segment the actual groove cuts. But they will get done. But this thing seems really solid. The finish is a little rough, I think my potato photos make it look worse than it actually is. 
The hole on the bottom needs to be a bit smaller to fit a standard 1" hardware store plug to fit so people can store paperwork and whatnot.  Attached File Attached File Attached FileNow who am I sending this to to see if it actually fits? lol. 
Currently the holes are sized for #8 screws. I will be including the actual hardware with the purchases. However I need someone to tell me what actually fits inside the TP9. 
We're going to call our company "PDM". We're not official yet so don't tell anyone about that.  I put that on the top of the grip. It won't be visible once installed.
We will be giving 10% of all proceeds back to local animal shelters. The actual beneficiary might change, perhaps giving back go some charities that work with vets, but we will always giving back. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 10:34:31 PM EDT
[#5]
The prototype looks pretty good for a first pass... and $70 for a proper grip is a bargain.
I can still loan you my rail and screws if it will help. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 10:43:02 PM EDT
[#6]
Looks good.
I was wondering about the flat portion that attached to the underside of the gun; do we know how strong g it will be at that particular thickness? My biggest concern would be it breaking while firing. Im no engineer and am not suggesting anything just wanted to pose the question. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 10:43:30 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The prototype looks pretty good for a first pass... and $70 for a proper grip is a bargain. I can still loan you my rail and screws if it will help. I'm looking into other manufacturing processes so that the finish doesn't look so rough. However that many change the price point. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 10:45:25 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks good. I was wondering about the flat portion that attached to the underside of the gun; do we know how strong g it will be at that particular thickness? My biggest concern would be it breaking while firing. Im no engineer and am not suggesting anything just wanted to pose the question. It's difficult to tell when it's not actually mounted. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 10:52:36 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Agreed. That's where you guys come into play, I want you guys to mount this grip if possible and within reason, try to break it. It's difficult to tell when it's not actually mounted. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 10:59:35 PM EDT
[#10]
Shapeways 3d printed?
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Posted: 6/9/2017 11:03:44 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shapeways 3d printed?
The more I think about it the more I want it in a different material though. The finish is bothering me. I'm looking into rapid prototyping services at the moment. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 11:35:44 PM EDT
[#12]
The grip looks fantastic! Will absolutely buy once they are available.
However I would like to see it printed in some type of fiber reinforced plastic such as the CF impregnated resin previously suggested. That will be much more likely to hold up over the long haul. 3D Hubs has many printers you can get quotes for this project who print in Carbon Fiber reinforced nylon https://www.3dhubs.com/3dprint#?materials=carbon-reinforced-nylon |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 11:39:23 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The grip looks fantastic! Will absolutely buy once they are available. However I would like to see it printed in some type of fiber reinforced plastic such as the CF impregnated resin previously suggested. That will be much more likely to hold up over the long haul. 3D Hubs has many printers you can get quotes for this project who print in Carbon Fiber reinforced nylon https://www.3dhubs.com/3dprint#?materials=carbon-reinforced-nylon I think you guys will be surprised in the strength of this nylon though. I'm not saying it's perfect but I was surprised when I first started working with this material. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 11:52:42 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The problem with that is the pricing. The cost is literally ranging from $80-$200. With basic FDM prints you also have the issue of layers. Not only aesthetically but also functionally, the strength with layers is typically much weaker than against them. Think about grain in wood. I'll keep investigating for alternative services and material options for you. Ultimately I would be willing to pay more for a stronger foregrip - it is afterall a $2,000 weapon and the grip is only inches from the muzzle. Another company thats great and has fast quotes is ProtoLabs: https://www.protolabs.com/materials/comparison-guide/?filter=3d-printing-materials And Quickparts: http://www.quickparts.3dsystems.com/solutions/?gclid=CI-x0o2wstQCFYZcfgodErEDmQ |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 11:55:53 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is that the pricing for a single proto, or for runs of 10-20? I'll keep investigating for alternative services and material options for you. Ultimately I would be willing to pay more for a stronger foregrip - it is afterall a $2,000 weapon and the grip is only inches from the muzzle. Another company thats great and has fast quotes is ProtoLabs: https://www.protolabs.com/materials/comparison-guide/?filter=3d-printing-materials And Quickparts: http://www.quickparts.3dsystems.com/solutions/?gclid=CI-x0o2wstQCFYZcfgodErEDmQ
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Posted: 6/10/2017 12:02:58 AM EDT
[#16]
I just stood on the grip and bounced up and down a little. I'm 235 and there seemed to be no flex in the part whatsoever.
Very scientific. Who wants to put this on their gun and see how much abuse it can take? Who's in for prototype testing? |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 12:46:38 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just stood on the grip and bounced up and down a little. I'm 235 and there seemed to be no flex in the part whatsoever. Very scientific. Who wants to put this on their gun and see how much abuse it can take? Who's in for prototype testing? |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 8:50:00 AM EDT
[#18]
I broke the grip, lol. Pictures to follow. Phones dead at the moment.
I screwed it to a board and tried to break the grip. Took some force not a ton. It broke at the neck. Not happy with the current design though. I think hollowed it out too much. Still exploring the rapid pro options. Waiting for quotes at the moment. Fingers crossed! 
Thinking about it im also going to get some cnc aluminum quotes. It might actually be better for a small run. |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 9:54:43 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I broke the grip, lol. Pictures to follow. Phones dead at the moment. I screwed it to a board and tried to break the grip. Took some force not a ton. It broke at the neck. Not happy with the current design though. I think hollowed it out too much. Still exploring the rapid pro options. Waiting for quotes at the moment. Fingers crossed!
Thinking about it im also going to get some cnc aluminum quotes. It might actually be better for a small run. |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 10:12:57 AM EDT
[#20]
I can test 2.0!
This is great to see. 
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Posted: 6/10/2017 10:29:29 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I broke the grip, lol. Pictures to follow. Phones dead at the moment. I screwed it to a board and tried to break the grip. Took some force not a ton. It broke at the neck. Not happy with the current design though. I think hollowed it out too much. Still exploring the rapid pro options. Waiting for quotes at the moment. Fingers crossed!
Thinking about it im also going to get some cnc aluminum quotes. It might actually be better for a small run.
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Posted: 6/10/2017 11:33:01 AM EDT
[#22]
As stated the neck probably needs to be thicker, and the mounting plate as well. If you look at the original grip on the first page that started this whole cavalcade of courage, their mounting plate appears to have a bit of a taper to it front to middle to back. That taper allows for greater bend resistance in the plate, as well as gives a bit more meat around the screw holes (which they will need not just for the countersink clearance but the screws will be at a slight angle to the plate).
I'm not much of an artist or engineer, but I sketched this out last night as my own (hopefully) constructive input on the existing grip design: 
(Note: terrible sketch not to scale, everything over exaggerated and awful thanks to beer) Takeaways from my deranged monkey scribbles: - The mounting plate probably needs to be tapered towards the neck of the grip on all surfaces to bolster part strength instead of flat - The mounting screws / bolts need to be countersunk, so additional "meat" in the plate is a must to prevent the bolt heads from sticking out and digging into your hand when you hold the grip - The countersunk bolt holes also need to be at the correct angle to the receiver, what that angle is I'm not sure as I don't have the right tools to measure that - The two countersunk bolts might use cap nuts to attach inside the receiver? The screws on the original rail are button head torx screws, so we know there is space allowance inside the receiver for them... I'd think similar sized cap nuts would do the trick inside easily, but that would mean the bolt length needs to be spot on. - I could be seeing things, but the area where the grip's mounting plate will attach has a slight taper to it like a boat hull... from the outside in to center line there is a very, very slight V taper. It is almost imperceptible and I'm worried if the grip's mounting plate has a perfectly flat mounting surface that it may not seat completely flush... other TP9 owners, am I hallucinating this V taper? I think the first prototype was a really solid step in the right direction towards making these guns "whole". |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 3:51:00 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As stated the neck probably needs to be thicker, and the mounting plate as well. If you look at the original grip on the first page that started this whole cavalcade of courage, their mounting plate appears to have a bit of a taper to it front to middle to back. That taper allows for greater bend resistance in the plate, as well as gives a bit more meat around the screw holes (which they will need not just for the countersink clearance but the screws will be at a slight angle to the plate). I'm not much of an artist or engineer, but I sketched this out last night as my own (hopefully) constructive input on the existing grip design: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/18357/IMG-0664-227284.jpg (Note: terrible sketch not to scale, everything over exaggerated and awful thanks to beer) Takeaways from my deranged monkey scribbles: - The mounting plate probably needs to be tapered towards the neck of the grip on all surfaces to bolster part strength instead of flat - The mounting screws / bolts need to be countersunk, so additional "meat" in the plate is a must to prevent the bolt heads from sticking out and digging into your hand when you hold the grip - The countersunk bolt holes also need to be at the correct angle to the receiver, what that angle is I'm not sure as I don't have the right tools to measure that - The two countersunk bolts might use cap nuts to attach inside the receiver? The screws on the original rail are button head torx screws, so we know there is space allowance inside the receiver for them... I'd think similar sized cap nuts would do the trick inside easily, but that would mean the bolt length needs to be spot on. - I could be seeing things, but the area where the grip's mounting plate will attach has a slight taper to it like a boat hull... from the outside in to center line there is a very, very slight V taper. It is almost imperceptible and I'm worried if the grip's mounting plate has a perfectly flat mounting surface that it may not seat completely flush... other TP9 owners, am I hallucinating this V taper? I think the first prototype was a really solid step in the right direction towards making these guns "whole". I jumped the gun a little before with the price point. Obviously switching from 3d printing to cnc aluminum is going to have an impact on the price. Could I send you the grip and you can tell me if you can make it fit? While we're seeing if the actual specs are right, I'm going to look into cnc aluminum production. It'll add a little weight but it should make for a much stronger design. |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 4:51:35 PM EDT
[#24]
I'd be happy to help, I just wish I had better measuring tools to better gauge the various surfaces on my TP9.
Anyone know what kind of tool I need to get the screw hole angles? I also thought I'd try to measure the hole size and depth of the mounting holes inside the receiver so we have a better idea of what kind of fasteners we are going to need. Edit: I thought of something... the factory rail technically HAS the screw hole angles in it. The bottom rail is flat at "axis floor plane" in your modelling software, but the top of it is angled to match the receiver of the TP9, along with the correct screw positions. And the two screws are sized to fit the holes in the receiver for both length and diameter. If you want to send me one of the prototypes to test I think I should send you my factory rail with the two screws. You are probably in a better position to measure the rail and the screws to glean the proper angle and fastener sizes than I am. |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 5:07:43 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd be happy to help, I just wish I had better measuring tools to better gauge the various surfaces on my TP9. Anyone know what kind of tool I need to get the screw hole angles? I also thought I'd try to measure the hole size and depth of the mounting holes inside the receiver so we have a better idea of what kind of fasteners we are going to need. Edit: I thought of something... the factory rail technically HAS the screw hole angles in it. The bottom rail is flat at "axis floor plane" in your modelling software, but the top of it is angled to match the receiver of the TP9, along with the correct screw positions. And the two screws are sized to fit the holes in the receiver for both length and diameter. If you want to send me one of the prototypes to test I think I should send you my factory rail with the two screws. You are probably in a better position to measure the rail and the screws to glean the proper angle and fastener sizes than I am. |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 5:55:57 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looking at photos and the airsoft clone I'm pretty sure the grip is actually perpendicular to the bottom of the gun. I already have the holes counter sunk so the heads of the screws won't be sticking out. Looking at the photos I think some #8 screws and nuts should be able to mount this. I just want to see if my holes are lined up properly and the right size. This will also give us a good indication of the bottom of the gun is curved in any direction. We can also see if the mounting plate is too big/small/ or in the way of the stock or uncomfortable in anyway. This photo is the best I can do to show this: 
If the countersunk holes on your grip are drilled at a 90 degree angle to the mounting face there is a chance they may either egg out on install, or the bolt head will sit off angle resulting in one edge of it sticking out on the grip surface. This is kind of what is happening in the grip Bruecken had built... if you go back and look at the pics of his grip on page 1 you can see this in the front fastener, it is "lopsided" in the countersunk hole... indicating it sits at an angle different than the surface it passes through. The only reason I have concern over this issue is that if the grips are made out of harder aluminum, if you overtighten the cap nuts inside the TP9 receiver to attach it the cap nuts might deform the receiver... which is why we may need to include some sort of sacrificial washer inside the receiver and a regular flat nut instead of a cap nut to further decrease the through height of the fastener inside. It is not so much a big deal on the front fastener, but the rear fastener can contact the return spring on the trigger which can cause the trigger to fail to reset... which actually happened to me when I installed a flat mount rail on my gun. I had to dremel the fastener shorter to prevent it from happening. |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 8:30:21 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You are correct, the grip itself is perpendicular to the face of the receiver that it connects to... my concern is that the holes in the receiver through which the screws attach the factory rail on the TP9 are not actually perpendicular to that same surface. The holes, and the factory screws that go through them, are perpendicular to the rail surface of the factory rail. This photo is the best I can do to show this: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/18357/IMG-0665-227579.jpg If the countersunk holes on your grip are drilled at a 90 degree angle to the mounting face there is a chance they may either egg out on install, or the bolt head will sit off angle resulting in one edge of it sticking out on the grip surface. This is kind of what is happening in the grip Bruecken had built... if you go back and look at the pics of his grip on page 1 you can see this in the front fastener, it is "lopsided" in the countersunk hole... indicating it sits at an angle different than the surface it passes through. The only reason I have concern over this issue is that if the grips are made out of harder aluminum, if you overtighten the cap nuts inside the TP9 receiver to attach it the cap nuts might deform the receiver... which is why we may need to include some sort of sacrificial washer inside the receiver and a regular flat nut instead of a cap nut to further decrease the through height of the fastener inside. It is not so much a big deal on the front fastener, but the rear fastener can contact the return spring on the trigger which can cause the trigger to fail to reset... which actually happened to me when I installed a flat mount rail on my gun. I had to dremel the fastener shorter to prevent it from happening.
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Posted: 6/10/2017 8:42:10 PM EDT
[#28]
Sent you an IM.
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Posted: 6/10/2017 9:09:35 PM EDT
[#29]
I'm still trying to figure out how to measure this, but this is a picture of what I've been describing as the "boat hull" taper in the area where the future grip is to go:
I used a piece of black cardboard so you can see the light peeking through on the right side. The cardboard card is flush against the left side completely... the surface is not bowed or curved, it is peaked in the centerline with a smooth flat transition away from center out towards the edges. It is very slight, but it is there... and if we try to place a perfectly flat plate against that it is going to have gaps on the outer edges. If someone out there with greater mechanical aptitude than me can explain in beer drinker's terms how to do it, I can try to measure this taper. Edit: HALFNATTYGAINZ, when you get my rail next week you will see that the rail has these very tiny (but noticable) offset slats akimbo from the areas where the screws attach. These slats are just tall enough to press against the surface of the receiver to create a kind of "tripod" with the screw attach point in the middle. That is how B&T got around fabbing an actual V shape into the top of the factory rail piece but still supporting the sides. |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 9:22:14 PM EDT
[#30]
Cool development. I've got a BCM vert grip on mine right now but would totally shell out for something more proper.
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Posted: 6/10/2017 10:04:25 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm still trying to figure out how to measure this, but this is a picture of what I've been describing as the "boat hull" taper in the area where the future grip is to go: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/18357/IMG-0666-227739.jpg I used a piece of black cardboard so you can see the light peeking through on the right side. The cardboard card is flush against the left side completely... the surface is not bowed or curved, it is peaked in the centerline with a smooth flat transition away from center out towards the edges. It is very slight, but it is there... and if we try to place a perfectly flat plate against that it is going to have gaps on the outer edges. If someone out there with greater mechanical aptitude than me can explain in beer drinker's terms how to do it, I can try to measure this taper. Edit: HALFNATTYGAINZ, when you get my rail next week you will see that the rail has these very tiny (but noticable) offset slats akimbo from the areas where the screws attach. These slats are just tall enough to press against the surface of the receiver to create a kind of "tripod" with the screw attach point in the middle. That is how B&T got around fabbing an actual V shape into the top of the factory rail piece but still supporting the sides. |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 10:18:19 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@csfirearms has a different rail on his TP9 maybe he can shed some light on this? |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 10:43:17 PM EDT
[#33]
In terms of alternative construction methods, there's a couple that may help
-solid 3D printed grip without the hollow cavity for more rigidity -3d prinited from the previously mentioned CF reinforced nylon -CNC'd Aluminum -CNC'd Delrin plastic or black fiber reinforced nylon -3D printed injection mold tooling suitable for 10-20 pieces I'd hit up the guys over at Practical Machinist forums. They have a wealth of knowledge on manufacturing and parts design, including a section for gunsmithing: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/ And, they have a sub-forum for getting quotes on small projects. There's a lot of guys there who take on small projects, I've had great success using them for prototypes before. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/manufacturing-resource/ |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 10:59:06 PM EDT
[#34]
Thanks for the info. I'm going to check out that forum tomorrow. Im sure they'll have a bunch of good info for me.
I'm currently at my day job, so this is all I got for you guys it's just a cut view so you can see the it hollowed out. I thought about making the walls thicker or making the neck portion solid, and that might work but I'd rather give everyone a solid part.  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/10/2017 11:07:08 PM EDT
[#35]
But seriously though I know I said thank you a lot but this info is going to help me out for not only this project but also other parts in the future.
I work a day job, making ends meet but not much room for growth. I always loved mechanical designs and especially? gun designs. I would always been interested in how shit works. I used to sketch designs of guns in school all the time, I even got suspended over it once, lol. So I started to learn CAD basically for fun. Making all kinds of stuff. Got talking? to a buddy who basically told me if I want a successful life I gotta go out there and build it. I can't rely on my day job to build my dream. I couldn't build my dream on the back of someone else or wait for that golden opportunity. When I was in high school I was a skinny out of shape kid, weak as hell. So I said fuck it, and started lifting. I don't think I'm anywhere near where I want to be but I've made a lot of progress. I already knew the lesson, it was just in a different area of my life. So maybe I'll build something out of nothing. Maybe it'll all crash and burn. But I gotta try. Not satisfied with doing the same thing for 50 years then retiring, lol. Not quitting my day job, but I'm putting a lot of hours I should be sleeping into learning and building,lol. So a huge thank you to all of you.
Anyways you guys probably care less about my story and more about the grip, lol.
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Posted: 6/11/2017 6:16:30 AM EDT
[#36]
Hey, thank you for taking on the project
As far as starting your own gear business, that's what I did 3 years back, and it's now my full time job. And it began with a small, niche product. In terms of moving forward with this if you're interested, I highly suggest getting a Shopify store. They have pre-established website templates that are extremely easy to use, with built in Text, photo, sale price, credit card processing, and shipping logisitcs built in. Basically you just have to type up your sales copy, add photos, and set a product price, and Shopify takes care of the rest. The first month is free, after which it's just $25 per month, plus 3% credit card processing. Then you want to dowload the 'Shippo' app, which automatically syncs your customers addresses with their shipping label creation software, allowing you to buy and print shipping labels at home. And add 'Yotpo' for generating customer reviews. Set the program to email the customer 10-21 days after purchase for a review. This is both a great way to get customer feedback, which is really one of the best parts of running a small gear business, and also helps build trust in your store. Once your product is launched and ready to sell, you hit up the gun blogs 'Tips' section with a) a high quality product photo or 3 b) a nice short 1-2 sentence note using the writers name c) a short blurb about the product that they can lightly edit into a news story. This is a win-win arrangement, as blogs are constantly in need of new material due to the content cravings of readers, whose active engagement is how blogs charge for advertising. Meanwhile, you get free exposure to people who are mostly likely to buy your product (gun nerds such as ourselves) who will then go to your website and buy something. Then just kick back, sell your product, and use the money to launch your next one. |
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Posted: 6/11/2017 11:15:39 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
But seriously though I know I said thank you a lot but this info is going to help me out for not only this project but also other parts in the future. I work a day job, making ends meet but not much room for growth. I always loved mechanical designs and especially? gun designs. I would always been interested in how shit works. I used to sketch designs of guns in school all the time, I even got suspended over it once, lol. So I started to learn CAD basically for fun. Making all kinds of stuff. Got talking? to a buddy who basically told me if I want a successful life I gotta go out there and build it. I can't rely on my day job to build my dream. I couldn't build my dream on the back of someone else or wait for that golden opportunity. When I was in high school I was a skinny out of shape kid, weak as hell. So I said fuck it, and started lifting. I don't think I'm anywhere near where I want to be but I've made a lot of progress. I already knew the lesson, it was just in a different area of my life. So maybe I'll build something out of nothing. Maybe it'll all crash and burn. But I gotta try. Not satisfied with doing the same thing for 50 years then retiring, lol. Not quitting my day job, but I'm putting a lot of hours I should be sleeping into learning and building,lol. So a huge thank you to all of you.
Anyways you guys probably care less about my story and more about the grip, lol. 
Thanks for sharing. |
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Posted: 6/11/2017 12:34:32 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hey, thank you for taking on the project
As far as starting your own gear business, that's what I did 3 years back, and it's now my full time job. And it began with a small, niche product. In terms of moving forward with this if you're interested, I highly suggest getting a Shopify store. They have pre-established website templates that are extremely easy to use, with built in Text, photo, sale price, credit card processing, and shipping logisitcs built in. Basically you just have to type up your sales copy, add photos, and set a product price, and Shopify takes care of the rest. The first month is free, after which it's just $25 per month, plus 3% credit card processing. Then you want to dowload the 'Shippo' app, which automatically syncs your customers addresses with their shipping label creation software, allowing you to buy and print shipping labels at home. And add 'Yotpo' for generating customer reviews. Set the program to email the customer 10-21 days after purchase for a review. This is both a great way to get customer feedback, which is really one of the best parts of running a small gear business, and also helps build trust in your store. Once your product is launched and ready to sell, you hit up the gun blogs 'Tips' section with a) a high quality product photo or 3 b) a nice short 1-2 sentence note using the writers name c) a short blurb about the product that they can lightly edit into a news story. This is a win-win arrangement, as blogs are constantly in need of new material due to the content cravings of readers, whose active engagement is how blogs charge for advertising. Meanwhile, you get free exposure to people who are mostly likely to buy your product (gun nerds such as ourselves) who will then go to your website and buy something. Then just kick back, sell your product, and use the money to launch your next one.
Good news is CNC 6061 aluminium isn't that much more expensive in bulk than the SLS prints I've done so far. Even with an anodizing bulk pricing seems solid. |
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Posted: 6/11/2017 4:09:53 PM EDT
[#39]
Yup.
Just found something that worked and machined it to fit. CSF Quote HistoryQuoted:
CS did what a lot of us did, kitbash a rail section onto the receiver in a flush fit configuration. I had a Swiss SAN rail section off of an SG552 on mine. It fit well as the holes lined up more or less and the back of the rail already had a curve to it (it was designed to be added to Swiss ballistic nylon handguards that have a curve to their profile). |
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Posted: 6/12/2017 9:26:15 AM EDT
[#40]
Just checking in ... great to see all the interest in the TP9. Count me in for at least one!
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Posted: 6/13/2017 10:45:35 PM EDT
[#41]
Interestingly enough I was poking around 3dhubs for some reason the CF nylon quotes I was getting now were much less. I think this may a good means of production at the moment. I'm going to wait until I get the rail make some adjustments to the sketch and order a CF nylon prototype.
I'm still concerned about the finish at the moment. But here's hoping! I ordered another part I'm working in the CF nylon so I'll be able to see how strong and what the quality is like for that. |
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Posted: 6/13/2017 10:55:35 PM EDT
[#42]
One of my employees told me a numbskull way of measuring the angle on the mating surface... I'm going to take two pieces of cardboard and hold them on the surface, then tape them together, then use them to draw the angle on paper, then use a protractor to measure the angle.
The angle is very slight, and this rough way of measuring it will most likely be horseshoes and hand grenades, but at least it will generate a number we can start from. |
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Posted: 6/13/2017 11:03:19 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One of my employees told me a numbskull way of measuring the angle on the mating surface... I'm going to take two pieces of cardboard and hold them on the surface, then tape them together, then use them to draw the angle on paper, then use a protractor to measure the angle. The angle is very slight, and this rough way of measuring it will most likely be horseshoes and hand grenades, but at least it will generate a number we can start from.
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Posted: 6/14/2017 3:17:38 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Its cool man, I have some tools I can use to measure the angle. |
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Posted: 6/14/2017 4:30:49 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just trying to help as much as possible. This is kind of a "dream accessory" for several of us and we all want to do our part to help it come to fruition. I'm sure plenty of SPP owners would be all over this. Especially since they have access to the SPP fixed stocks for SBRS. |
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Posted: 6/14/2017 8:28:52 PM EDT
[#46]
CF version should be here June 21st.
Even if the CF nylon doesn't work out. Pricing out a run of about 25 should still give a pretty attractive price point for cnc aluminium. I'm just thinking it may be a little out of place on an almost all polymer gun for some buyers. |
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Posted: 6/14/2017 8:43:48 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CF version should be here June 21st. Even if the CF nylon doesn't work out. Pricing out a run of about 25 should still give a pretty attractive price point for cnc aluminium. I'm just thinking it may be a little out of place on an almost all polymer gun for some buyers. Ill get it and cerakote it to match. Thats perfect in my mind anyways, I would much rather have it strong and aluminum than of questionable strength |
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Posted: 6/15/2017 12:03:38 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You said it! It's surprising B+T doesn't offer this for MP9/TP9s that have the forward rail. I'm sure plenty of SPP owners would be all over this. Especially since they have access to the SPP fixed stocks for SBRS. Once again thank you all for making this happen. |
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Posted: 6/15/2017 7:25:56 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Aluminum is fine with me Natty'! Ill get it and cerakote it to match. Thats perfect in my mind anyways, I would much rather have it strong and aluminum than of questionable strength Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
CF version should be here June 21st. Even if the CF nylon doesn't work out. Pricing out a run of about 25 should still give a pretty attractive price point for cnc aluminium. I'm just thinking it may be a little out of place on an almost all polymer gun for some buyers. Ill get it and cerakote it to match. Thats perfect in my mind anyways, I would much rather have it strong and aluminum than of questionable strength |
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Posted: 6/15/2017 12:28:40 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CF version should be here June 21st. Even if the CF nylon doesn't work out. Pricing out a run of about 25 should still give a pretty attractive price point for cnc aluminium. I'm just thinking it may be a little out of place on an almost all polymer gun for some buyers. will be so nice to finally have this done. I think the cf nylon will be perfect. I'm good with aluminum too if that's the way it works out. I just think the cf nylon may "match" a little better. Thanks- Shea |
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