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Posted: 4/21/2016 6:59:29 PM EDT
[#1]
Rail covers in the picture above I believe are the ERGOs Slim or something. I have them and they feel great!
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/21/2016 7:21:51 PM EDT
[#2]
Maybe you guys can help me out with something. I got my 922r kit and a few other parts I ordered from HB, shooters element, yeti works. Yesterday I put it all together and was able to go to the range. I LOVE IT! This afternoon I was doing malfunction clearing drills with it at home and my yeti grip started to move like in the photo. I push it back in place and tightened it up. After a few more drills it did it again. I am pretty rough on the gun during this drills but I cant have the grip move back like this. I noticed where the grip screw goes that the hole on the upper part is oblong. Is there something that was in oblong hole for support and fell out when I over excitedly put all my cool aftermarket parts on the SBR to make it 922 r complaint? I only shot the pistol once before it was an SBR. I hated it as a pistol but as an SBR its awesome
By the way I hate where they placed the front sling loop. It makes my sling get in way during a practice drill and I'm thinking about putting a QD on the rail at the front to stop it. Other than that I freaking love this SBR! |
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Posted: 4/21/2016 8:16:40 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GunSafe:
Maybe you guys can help me out with something. I got my 922r kit and a few other parts I ordered from HB, shooters element, yeti works. Yesterday I put it all together and was able to go to the range. I LOVE IT! This afternoon I was doing malfunction clearing drills with it at home and my yeti grip started to move like in the photo. I push it back in place and tightened it up. After a few more drills it did it again. I am pretty rough on the gun during this drills but I cant have the grip move back like this. I noticed where the grip screw goes that the hole on the upper part is oblong. Is there something that was in oblong hole for support and fell out when I over excitedly put all my cool aftermarket parts on the SBR to make it 922 r complaint? I only shot the pistol once before it was an SBR. I hated it as a pistol but as an SBR its awesome http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a437/mark356/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160421_174256_zpsspi8pqmf.jpg By the way I hate where they placed the front sling loop. It makes my sling get in way during a practice drill and I'm thinking about putting a QD on the rail at the front to stop it. Other than that I freaking love this SBR! The hole on the frame is intentionally oblong so you can adjust the position of the grip. I would contact YetiWurks and ask if there is a way to tighten down the grip a little more so it doesn't slide. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/21/2016 8:22:22 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Manticore_Arms:
The hole on the frame is intentionally oblong so you can adjust the position of the grip. I would contact YetiWurks and ask if there is a way to tighten down the grip a little more so it doesn't slide. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Manticore_Arms:
Originally Posted By GunSafe:
Maybe you guys can help me out with something. I got my 922r kit and a few other parts I ordered from HB, shooters element, yeti works. Yesterday I put it all together and was able to go to the range. I LOVE IT! This afternoon I was doing malfunction clearing drills with it at home and my yeti grip started to move like in the photo. I push it back in place and tightened it up. After a few more drills it did it again. I am pretty rough on the gun during this drills but I cant have the grip move back like this. I noticed where the grip screw goes that the hole on the upper part is oblong. Is there something that was in oblong hole for support and fell out when I over excitedly put all my cool aftermarket parts on the SBR to make it 922 r complaint? I only shot the pistol once before it was an SBR. I hated it as a pistol but as an SBR its awesome http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a437/mark356/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160421_174256_zpsspi8pqmf.jpg By the way I hate where they placed the front sling loop. It makes my sling get in way during a practice drill and I'm thinking about putting a QD on the rail at the front to stop it. Other than that I freaking love this SBR! The hole on the frame is intentionally oblong so you can adjust the position of the grip. I would contact YetiWurks and ask if there is a way to tighten down the grip a little more so it doesn't slide. The big problem is if I tighten it down to much the screw pokes its head out the nut on the other side which is not so good for your hand. I'll do as you suggested and see what they say. Thanks! |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 4/21/2016 10:59:01 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By skipper469:
EDIT: it sucks that there is so much misinformation and confusion about this out there. I won't post advice unless I'm 100% certain it is correct. It's not misinformation. Here's mine. 
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Posted: 4/21/2016 11:02:38 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ImageX:
It's not misinformation. Here's mine. http://imageshack.com/a/img922/55/5VsNyz.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ImageX:
Originally Posted By skipper469:
EDIT: it sucks that there is so much misinformation and confusion about this out there. I won't post advice unless I'm 100% certain it is correct. It's not misinformation. Here's mine. http://imageshack.com/a/img922/55/5VsNyz.jpg Same as mine |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 4/21/2016 11:26:26 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GunSafe:
The big problem is if I tighten it down to much the screw pokes its head out the nut on the other side which is not so good for your hand. I'll do as you suggested and see what they say. Thanks! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GunSafe:
Originally Posted By Manticore_Arms:
Originally Posted By GunSafe:
Maybe you guys can help me out with something. I got my 922r kit and a few other parts I ordered from HB, shooters element, yeti works. Yesterday I put it all together and was able to go to the range. I LOVE IT! This afternoon I was doing malfunction clearing drills with it at home and my yeti grip started to move like in the photo. I push it back in place and tightened it up. After a few more drills it did it again. I am pretty rough on the gun during this drills but I cant have the grip move back like this. I noticed where the grip screw goes that the hole on the upper part is oblong. Is there something that was in oblong hole for support and fell out when I over excitedly put all my cool aftermarket parts on the SBR to make it 922 r complaint? I only shot the pistol once before it was an SBR. I hated it as a pistol but as an SBR its awesome http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a437/mark356/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160421_174256_zpsspi8pqmf.jpg By the way I hate where they placed the front sling loop. It makes my sling get in way during a practice drill and I'm thinking about putting a QD on the rail at the front to stop it. Other than that I freaking love this SBR! The hole on the frame is intentionally oblong so you can adjust the position of the grip. I would contact YetiWurks and ask if there is a way to tighten down the grip a little more so it doesn't slide. The big problem is if I tighten it down to much the screw pokes its head out the nut on the other side which is not so good for your hand. I'll do as you suggested and see what they say. Thanks! Post what they tell you. |
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Posted: 4/21/2016 11:31:16 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dustrod:
Same as mine Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dustrod:
Originally Posted By ImageX:
Originally Posted By skipper469:
EDIT: it sucks that there is so much misinformation and confusion about this out there. I won't post advice unless I'm 100% certain it is correct. It's not misinformation. Here's mine. http://imageshack.com/a/img922/55/5VsNyz.jpg Same as mine Looks like both will work. ATF... Big surprise. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 4/21/2016 11:40:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ImageX]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By skipper469:
Looks like both will work. ATF... Big surprise. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By skipper469:
Originally Posted By Dustrod:
Originally Posted By ImageX:
Originally Posted By skipper469:
EDIT: it sucks that there is so much misinformation and confusion about this out there. I won't post advice unless I'm 100% certain it is correct. It's not misinformation. Here's mine. http://imageshack.com/a/img922/55/5VsNyz.jpg Same as mine Looks like both will work. ATF... Big surprise. The ATF 100% wrong for denying forms without CZ in the model name. CZ is the manufacturer and the model is exactly "Scorpion EVO 3 S1". What can ya do about individual incompetence with some of their examiners though? |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 4/22/2016 9:46:17 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ImageX:
The ATF 100% wrong for denying forms without CZ in the model name. CZ is the manufacturer and the model is exactly "Scorpion EVO 3 S1". What can ya do about individual incompetence with some of their examiners though? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ImageX:
Originally Posted By skipper469:
Originally Posted By Dustrod:
Originally Posted By ImageX:
Originally Posted By skipper469:
EDIT: it sucks that there is so much misinformation and confusion about this out there. I won't post advice unless I'm 100% certain it is correct. It's not misinformation. Here's mine. http://imageshack.com/a/img922/55/5VsNyz.jpg Same as mine Looks like both will work. ATF... Big surprise. The ATF 100% wrong for denying forms without CZ in the model name. CZ is the manufacturer and the model is exactly "Scorpion EVO 3 S1". What can ya do about individual incompetence with some of their examiners though? I'm going to disagree here. Go to CZ USA's website and look at how they list their models. They all start with "CZ". There is no reason to include the manufacturer's name on the model on their website unless it is part of the name. Think about their pistol names. "CZ-75" is the model name; not "75". The ATF changed the accepted name at some point. They used to require "Scorpion Evo 3 S1"; now they require "CZ Scorpion Evo S1". As an aside, my Form 1 was mysteriously auto-corrected when I submitted last month. I first selected "CZ Scorpion EVO 3 S1" from the drop down list, but then edited it, because I had read that the model name needed to be "Scorpion EVO 3 S1" or it wouldn't be approved. It went through some sort of verification process and changed the model name back to "CZ Scorpion Evo 3 S1". |
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Posted: 4/22/2016 1:38:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Grab a Gun Evo for $775.
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/22/2016 5:18:11 PM EDT
[#12]
SUPPRESSOR MOUNTING QUESTION.
Is a 3 lug mount made to replace the barrel nut and screw directly to the barrel. I am interested in MINIMIZING THE SPACE from the front of the handguard and the rear on suppressor. FYI my suppressor is a GM-9. |
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Posted: 4/22/2016 5:30:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HappyCamel]
[#13]
Need some help- tried to get my barrel nut off today, even had it in a padded vice, zero luck. Anyway in the process all the clamshell receiver screws had to come out because my goal was taking the barrel to go get my Form 1 can and mount welded to it. My issue is the rear top corner of the two clamshells is ajar and if I put the screw in it catches on the opposite side and spreads them instead of tightens them. The thing is I never got the clamshell apart to get the barrel out because I couldn't get the nut loose, so IDK what's up with the clamshell. Any ideas on what is keeping it ajar or anyone fully disassembled theirs?
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Posted: 4/22/2016 6:43:45 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tap4AU:
SUPPRESSOR MOUNTING QUESTION. Is a 3 lug mount made to replace the barrel nut and screw directly to the barrel. I am interested in MINIMIZING THE SPACE from the front of the handguard and the rear on suppressor. FYI my suppressor is a GM-9. Use... this! 
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/22/2016 8:00:23 PM EDT
[#15]
That is ment to screw onto the barrel nut.
Will it work going directly on the barrel? |
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Posted: 4/22/2016 8:06:17 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By frankiebagadonuts:
It's the ATF being ridiculous either way, but I would guess the real key is whatever CZ puts down for model names on their manufacturing paperwork for ATF. Who knows, maybe CZ changed what they were using at some point and ATF just shrugged and rolled with it. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 4/22/2016 8:11:57 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tap4AU:
That is ment to screw onto the barrel nut. Will it work going directly on the barrel? The barrel nut and the muzzle threads are two different things on the Scorpion. That adapter is for directly attaching your suppressor. You screw it in the muzzle threads (after removing the flash hider). Contact Gemtech for confirmation and further details (I don't own that can). |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 4/22/2016 10:24:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mercdank]
[#18]
FYI guys here's a link to the CZ USA stock kit with US parts for 922r. I asked and they have a bunch in stock.
http://defenderoutdoors.com/CZ-EVO-Scorpion-USA-Manufacture-Parts-and-Folding-stock-Kit#tab-1 I ordered it on Wednesday for $249 so looks like I missed the price decrease, it is now at $224. |
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Posted: 4/22/2016 10:52:16 PM EDT
[#19]
I'm not sure I'm ever going to get through the trigger weld. Thought I was through, flipped it over, rounded out the 3mm Allen
 .
Think I'm going to have to drill it from the outside at this point. |
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Posted: 4/22/2016 11:26:32 PM EDT
[#20]
Has CZ USA provided a timeline for swapping out the welded trigger housing for non welded trigger housing?
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Posted: 4/22/2016 11:30:21 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Vegitan:
Has CZ USA provided a timeline for swapping out the welded trigger housing for non welded trigger housing? When I signed up it just said: "thanks, once we get started we'll swap them in the order the requests were received." |
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Posted: 4/22/2016 11:34:37 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Marbsy81:
I'm not sure I'm ever going to get through the trigger weld. Thought I was through, flipped it over, rounded out the 3mm Allen .
Think I'm going to have to drill it from the outside at this point. There should be enough of the screw exposed to get a grip with a set of pliers. I was close to stripping the screw head and ended up grabbing the screw with pliers and twisting it out that way |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 4/23/2016 2:54:31 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By robertmegar:
The barrel nut and the muzzle threads are two different things on the Scorpion. That adapter is for directly attaching your suppressor. You screw it in the muzzle threads (after removing the flash hider). Contact Gemtech for confirmation and further details (I don't own that can). Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By robertmegar:
Originally Posted By Tap4AU:
That is ment to screw onto the barrel nut. Will it work going directly on the barrel? The barrel nut and the muzzle threads are two different things on the Scorpion. That adapter is for directly attaching your suppressor. You screw it in the muzzle threads (after removing the flash hider). Contact Gemtech for confirmation and further details (I don't own that can). Unscrew your existing flash suppressor, screw on Gemtech mount, unscrew booster and screw onto scorpion mount. Works like a charm, been using my GM45 in this exactly fashion for months. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 9:18:56 AM EDT
[Last Edit: HappyCamel]
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel: Need some help- tried to get my barrel nut off today, even had it in a padded vice, zero luck. Anyway in the process all the clamshell receiver screws had to come out because my goal was taking the barrel to go get my Form 1 can and mount welded to it. My issue is the rear top corner of the two clamshells is ajar and if I put the screw in it catches on the opposite side and spreads them instead of tightens them. The thing is I never got the clamshell apart to get the barrel out because I couldn't get the nut loose, so IDK what's up with the clamshell. Any ideas on what is keeping it ajar or anyone fully disassembled theirs? Bump, clamshell is still ajar Eta: Got it, but barrel nut is still a giant giant bitch |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 12:35:47 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Marbsy81:
I'm not sure I'm ever going to get through the trigger weld. Thought I was through, flipped it over, rounded out the 3mm Allen .
Think I'm going to have to drill it from the outside at this point. I couldn't get a bit to bite in the weld since it was bowled. Instead I drilled out the screw from the underside after stripping out the allen head. Went deep enough to break the head off and then unscrewed the welded side to get it out. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/23/2016 2:32:09 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
Bump, clamshell is still ajar Eta: Got it, but barrel nut is still a giant giant bitch Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Need some help- tried to get my barrel nut off today, even had it in a padded vice, zero luck. Anyway in the process all the clamshell receiver screws had to come out because my goal was taking the barrel to go get my Form 1 can and mount welded to it. My issue is the rear top corner of the two clamshells is ajar and if I put the screw in it catches on the opposite side and spreads them instead of tightens them. The thing is I never got the clamshell apart to get the barrel out because I couldn't get the nut loose, so IDK what's up with the clamshell. Any ideas on what is keeping it ajar or anyone fully disassembled theirs? Bump, clamshell is still ajar Eta: Got it, but barrel nut is still a giant giant bitch I have one of the first pistols imported which is now a SBR. I was going to take the barrel off this weekend and send it to either ADCO or usmachineguns.com to have the threads reduced to 1/2 x 28. Anyone know the turnover time at usmachineguns? I've heard the barrel nut is a bitch on the first run imports so I'm not looking forward to removing it. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 5:10:46 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GunSafe: I have one of the first pistols imported which is now a SBR. I was going to take the barrel off this weekend and send it to either ADCO or usmachineguns.com to have the threads reduced to 1/2 x 28. Anyone know the turnover time at usmachineguns? I've heard the barrel nut is a bitch on the first run imports so I'm not looking forward to removing it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GunSafe: Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Need some help- tried to get my barrel nut off today, even had it in a padded vice, zero luck. Anyway in the process all the clamshell receiver screws had to come out because my goal was taking the barrel to go get my Form 1 can and mount welded to it. My issue is the rear top corner of the two clamshells is ajar and if I put the screw in it catches on the opposite side and spreads them instead of tightens them. The thing is I never got the clamshell apart to get the barrel out because I couldn't get the nut loose, so IDK what's up with the clamshell. Any ideas on what is keeping it ajar or anyone fully disassembled theirs? Bump, clamshell is still ajar Eta: Got it, but barrel nut is still a giant giant bitch I have one of the first pistols imported which is now a SBR. I was going to take the barrel off this weekend and send it to either ADCO or usmachineguns.com to have the threads reduced to 1/2 x 28. Anyone know the turnover time at usmachineguns? I've heard the barrel nut is a bitch on the first run imports so I'm not looking forward to removing it. I think they're a bitch on all, there's photos on the CZ forum of about a quarter oz of red loctite or worse on them. People are using cyanoacrylate solvent when heat fails. Why not use an adapter instead of retread? |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/23/2016 5:21:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GunSafe]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
I think they're a bitch on all, there's photos on the CZ forum of about a quarter oz of red loctite or worse on them. People are using cyanoacrylate solvent when heat fails. Why not use an adapter instead of retread? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By GunSafe:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Need some help- tried to get my barrel nut off today, even had it in a padded vice, zero luck. Anyway in the process all the clamshell receiver screws had to come out because my goal was taking the barrel to go get my Form 1 can and mount welded to it. My issue is the rear top corner of the two clamshells is ajar and if I put the screw in it catches on the opposite side and spreads them instead of tightens them. The thing is I never got the clamshell apart to get the barrel out because I couldn't get the nut loose, so IDK what's up with the clamshell. Any ideas on what is keeping it ajar or anyone fully disassembled theirs? Bump, clamshell is still ajar Eta: Got it, but barrel nut is still a giant giant bitch I have one of the first pistols imported which is now a SBR. I was going to take the barrel off this weekend and send it to either ADCO or usmachineguns.com to have the threads reduced to 1/2 x 28. Anyone know the turnover time at usmachineguns? I've heard the barrel nut is a bitch on the first run imports so I'm not looking forward to removing it. I think they're a bitch on all, there's photos on the CZ forum of about a quarter oz of red loctite or worse on them. People are using cyanoacrylate solvent when heat fails. Why not use an adapter instead of retread? I want to put a YHM XL wraith QD flash hider on it for my can. I did not want to use an adaper because it will add a good 1/2 inch to the length. I want the flash hider as close to the handguard as possible without having any problems with hitting it. I thought about tapping out the yhm flash to 18x 1 but the nut is about 19 mm wide. 1mm would be pushing it |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 5:21:29 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
I think they're a bitch on all, there's photos on the CZ forum of about a quarter oz of red loctite or worse on them. People are using cyanoacrylate solvent when heat fails. Why not use an adapter instead of retread? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By GunSafe:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Need some help- tried to get my barrel nut off today, even had it in a padded vice, zero luck. Anyway in the process all the clamshell receiver screws had to come out because my goal was taking the barrel to go get my Form 1 can and mount welded to it. My issue is the rear top corner of the two clamshells is ajar and if I put the screw in it catches on the opposite side and spreads them instead of tightens them. The thing is I never got the clamshell apart to get the barrel out because I couldn't get the nut loose, so IDK what's up with the clamshell. Any ideas on what is keeping it ajar or anyone fully disassembled theirs? Bump, clamshell is still ajar Eta: Got it, but barrel nut is still a giant giant bitch I have one of the first pistols imported which is now a SBR. I was going to take the barrel off this weekend and send it to either ADCO or usmachineguns.com to have the threads reduced to 1/2 x 28. Anyone know the turnover time at usmachineguns? I've heard the barrel nut is a bitch on the first run imports so I'm not looking forward to removing it. I think they're a bitch on all, there's photos on the CZ forum of about a quarter oz of red loctite or worse on them. People are using cyanoacrylate solvent when heat fails. Why not use an adapter instead of retread? I agree. Why not just use an 18x1 direct thread adapter (what I use), or an 18x1 3-lug adapter. The length difference is minimal. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/23/2016 5:25:36 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By skipper469:
I agree. Why not just use an 18x1 direct thread adapter (what I use), or an 18x1 3-lug adapter. The length difference is minimal. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By skipper469:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By GunSafe:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Need some help- tried to get my barrel nut off today, even had it in a padded vice, zero luck. Anyway in the process all the clamshell receiver screws had to come out because my goal was taking the barrel to go get my Form 1 can and mount welded to it. My issue is the rear top corner of the two clamshells is ajar and if I put the screw in it catches on the opposite side and spreads them instead of tightens them. The thing is I never got the clamshell apart to get the barrel out because I couldn't get the nut loose, so IDK what's up with the clamshell. Any ideas on what is keeping it ajar or anyone fully disassembled theirs? Bump, clamshell is still ajar Eta: Got it, but barrel nut is still a giant giant bitch I have one of the first pistols imported which is now a SBR. I was going to take the barrel off this weekend and send it to either ADCO or usmachineguns.com to have the threads reduced to 1/2 x 28. Anyone know the turnover time at usmachineguns? I've heard the barrel nut is a bitch on the first run imports so I'm not looking forward to removing it. I think they're a bitch on all, there's photos on the CZ forum of about a quarter oz of red loctite or worse on them. People are using cyanoacrylate solvent when heat fails. Why not use an adapter instead of retread? I agree. Why not just use an 18x1 direct thread adapter (what I use), or an 18x1 3-lug adapter. The length difference is minimal. To me yhm QDs look better either very close to the handguard or partly under the handguard in the case of ARs |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/23/2016 8:17:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GunSafe]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
I think they're a bitch on all, there's photos on the CZ forum of about a quarter oz of red loctite or worse on them. People are using cyanoacrylate solvent when heat fails. Why not use an adapter instead of retread? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By GunSafe:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By HappyCamel:
Need some help- tried to get my barrel nut off today, even had it in a padded vice, zero luck. Anyway in the process all the clamshell receiver screws had to come out because my goal was taking the barrel to go get my Form 1 can and mount welded to it. My issue is the rear top corner of the two clamshells is ajar and if I put the screw in it catches on the opposite side and spreads them instead of tightens them. The thing is I never got the clamshell apart to get the barrel out because I couldn't get the nut loose, so IDK what's up with the clamshell. Any ideas on what is keeping it ajar or anyone fully disassembled theirs? Bump, clamshell is still ajar Eta: Got it, but barrel nut is still a giant giant bitch I have one of the first pistols imported which is now a SBR. I was going to take the barrel off this weekend and send it to either ADCO or usmachineguns.com to have the threads reduced to 1/2 x 28. Anyone know the turnover time at usmachineguns? I've heard the barrel nut is a bitch on the first run imports so I'm not looking forward to removing it. I think they're a bitch on all, there's photos on the CZ forum of about a quarter oz of red loctite or worse on them. People are using cyanoacrylate solvent when heat fails. Why not use an adapter instead of retread? Was able to work on the barrel nut this afternoon. I locked it down in a padded vise. I tried to put a little acetone/ ethanol mix down the threads to loosen up the loctite before I locked it down. I was able to get the barrel nut off but it was a little bitch ( not as hard as a sig 556 pistol stock cap but close). I mard the barrel nut a little but it did come off. The barrel had a greenish loctite all over it. I used the acetone mix to clean it all off. Here is the barrel before cleaning 
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Posted: 4/23/2016 9:03:21 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GunSafe: Was able to work on the barrel nut this afternoon. I locked it down in a padded vise. I tried to put a little acetone/ ethanol mix down the threads to loosen up the loctite before I locked it down. I was able to get the barrel nut off but it was a little bitch ( not as hard as a sig 556 pistol stock cap but close). I mard the barrel nut a little but it did come off. The barrel had a greenish loctite all over it. I used the acetone mix to clean it all off. Here is the barrel before cleaninghttp://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a437/mark356/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160423_180812_zpscfqhtrhn.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GunSafe: Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Originally Posted By GunSafe: Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Need some help- tried to get my barrel nut off today, even had it in a padded vice, zero luck. Anyway in the process all the clamshell receiver screws had to come out because my goal was taking the barrel to go get my Form 1 can and mount welded to it. My issue is the rear top corner of the two clamshells is ajar and if I put the screw in it catches on the opposite side and spreads them instead of tightens them. The thing is I never got the clamshell apart to get the barrel out because I couldn't get the nut loose, so IDK what's up with the clamshell. Any ideas on what is keeping it ajar or anyone fully disassembled theirs? Bump, clamshell is still ajar Eta: Got it, but barrel nut is still a giant giant bitch I have one of the first pistols imported which is now a SBR. I was going to take the barrel off this weekend and send it to either ADCO or usmachineguns.com to have the threads reduced to 1/2 x 28. Anyone know the turnover time at usmachineguns? I've heard the barrel nut is a bitch on the first run imports so I'm not looking forward to removing it. I think they're a bitch on all, there's photos on the CZ forum of about a quarter oz of red loctite or worse on them. People are using cyanoacrylate solvent when heat fails. Why not use an adapter instead of retread? Was able to work on the barrel nut this afternoon. I locked it down in a padded vise. I tried to put a little acetone/ ethanol mix down the threads to loosen up the loctite before I locked it down. I was able to get the barrel nut off but it was a little bitch ( not as hard as a sig 556 pistol stock cap but close). I mard the barrel nut a little but it did come off. The barrel had a greenish loctite all over it. I used the acetone mix to clean it all off. Here is the barrel before cleaninghttp://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a437/mark356/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160423_180812_zpscfqhtrhn.jpg |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/23/2016 11:32:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GunSafe]
[#33]
I put the handguard in the vise and used probably about 40-50 lbs of torque on the first turn but it was about the same force until I got it nearly off. The loctite was mostly on the lower threads but I believe my acetone mix helped a little I put the handguard in the vise because I can replace that if it was damaged but it was okay. I totally dissembled the Scorp to get the barrel out. I left the fixation on the barrel because i really do not want or know how to remove it. Now I'm going to send it out for rethreading down to 1/2 x 28. I'll post pics when I get it back. I hope usmachineguns is as fast as ADCO is with their threading work.
Before you remove the screws in the two clamshell receiver half you have to get the barrel nut and handguard removed. After that it's a cake walk. Try an acetone mix on threads before trying to remove it again. You might even soak it for a while. I used 5 parts acetone and 1 part ethanol Here is my barrel and barrel nut cleaned up 
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Posted: 4/23/2016 11:57:38 PM EDT
[#34]
When you put it in the vice what are you clamping onto? The metal sling loops? I'm afraid to pinch the polymer with any amount of force.
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Posted: 4/24/2016 11:35:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: HappyCamel]
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GunSafe: I put the handguard in the vise and used probably about 40-50 lbs of torque on the first turn but it was about the same force until I got it nearly off. The loctite was mostly on the lower threads but I believe my acetone mix helped a little I put the handguard in the vise because I can replace that if it was damaged but it was okay. I totally dissembled the Scorp to get the barrel out. I left the fixation on the barrel because i really do not want or know how to remove it. Now I'm going to send it out for rethreading down to 1/2 x 28. I'll post pics when I get it back. I hope usmachineguns is as fast as ADCO is with their threading work. Before you remove the screws in the two clamshell receiver half you have to get the barrel nut and handguard removed. After that it's a cake walk. Try an acetone mix on threads before trying to remove it again. You might even soak it for a while. I used 5 parts acetone and 1 part ethanol Here is my barrel and barrel nut cleaned up http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a437/mark356/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160423_223541_zpsmwkfsbku.jpg http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a437/mark356/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160423_223553_zps944wulhc.jpg Good thing you left the fixation on it, it would have had to be head spaced again. Thank you for the information im a try your solvent mixture before I try the cyanoacrylate solvent because I don't want it potentially running down the barrel and eating the plastic around the trunnion. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/24/2016 11:39:51 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By carbonfly:
When you put it in the vice what are you clamping onto? The metal sling loops? I'm afraid to pinch the polymer with any amount of force. I clamped the vise on the picatinny rail just missing the metal sling loops. I used two wooden blocks and foam in order to soften the vise so it would not damage it. I did not clamp the metal sling loop or the clamshell. I was worried about the polymer too so I opted for using the vise on the rail because it would suck to break the clamshell but I saw the CZ guys running over it with a skidster and a compact car (I guess that is the largest they have in the Czech republic with it being Europe and all) in a video. It seems to be pretty durable. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/24/2016 11:53:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: GunSafe]
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
Good thing you left the fixation on it, it would have had to be had spaced again. Thank you for the information im a try your solvent mixture before I try the cyanoacrylate solvent because I don't want it potentially running down the barrel and eating the plastic around the trunnion. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HappyCamel:
Originally Posted By GunSafe:
I put the handguard in the vise and used probably about 40-50 lbs of torque on the first turn but it was about the same force until I got it nearly off. The loctite was mostly on the lower threads but I believe my acetone mix helped a little I put the handguard in the vise because I can replace that if it was damaged but it was okay. I totally dissembled the Scorp to get the barrel out. I left the fixation on the barrel because i really do not want or know how to remove it. Now I'm going to send it out for rethreading down to 1/2 x 28. I'll post pics when I get it back. I hope usmachineguns is as fast as ADCO is with their threading work. Before you remove the screws in the two clamshell receiver half you have to get the barrel nut and handguard removed. After that it's a cake walk. Try an acetone mix on threads before trying to remove it again. You might even soak it for a while. I used 5 parts acetone and 1 part ethanol Here is my barrel and barrel nut cleaned up http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a437/mark356/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160423_223541_zpsmwkfsbku.jpg http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a437/mark356/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160423_223553_zps944wulhc.jpg Good thing you left the fixation on it, it would have had to be had spaced again. Thank you for the information im a try your solvent mixture before I try the cyanoacrylate solvent because I don't want it potentially running down the barrel and eating the plastic around the trunnion. I put some of the acetone mix on the polymer to see if there would be any problems and there were none in the short term, but I'm not sure about very long term exposure to the polymer. Most of those solvents use acetone in them so rather than going out and buying it I just made my own mix. You can use 1 part water in the mix to retard the evaporation rate. The mix makes for a good cleaner once you get the nut off. I hope it help you get the barrel nut off. Watch out on the polymer handguard if you are using a crescent wrench. I nicked mine on the first turn because of the way they designed it. I need to go buy a 20mm wrench and clawfoot for it because I know once the aftermarket handguards start appearing that the factory one will be replaced. By the way when you use the acetone mix be sure to have good ventilation for it. It really can make you feel sick  Its worst then any cleaner I have used and that includes hoppe's
Keep us posted! |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 2:51:29 PM EDT
[#38]
I purchased my scorpion last week and it had the welded trigger screw so I signed up on the CZ site to get it fixed. I put a thread adapter on it so I could put my Osprey on it. I have a couple questions for you guys.
While slightly annoying the position of the safety is not horrible. I think I still am going to replace it. Has anyone tried the short safety from PMM? I was thinking of either that one or the HB industries AR Style Safeties. Also with my Osprey on it seems loud when you are shooting the gun but standing back 4 or 5 feet it seems fairly quiet. All in all I am very happy with this gun. Can't wait to get a stock on it. Lastly anyone know any one selling the 922r stock kit? LOL. 
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Posted: 4/24/2016 3:03:08 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BeerPimp:
I purchased my scorpion last week and it had the welded trigger screw so I signed up on the CZ site to get it fixed. I put a thread adapter on it so I could put my Osprey on it. I have a couple questions for you guys. While slightly annoying the position of the safety is not horrible. I think I still am going to replace it. Has anyone tried the short safety from PMM? I was thinking of either that one or the HB industries AR Style Safeties. Also with my Osprey on it seems loud when you are shooting the gun but standing back 4 or 5 feet it seems fairly quiet. All in all I am very happy with this gun. Can't wait to get a stock on it. Lastly anyone know any one selling the 922r stock kit? LOL. 922r |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 3:07:40 PM EDT
[#40]
How much are you guys paying for your pistols?
I want to scoop one up before the ATF gets lucky about trusts. |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 3:29:28 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryOriginally Posted By Idaholandho:
Originally Posted By BeerPimp:
I purchased my scorpion last week and it had the welded trigger screw so I signed up on the CZ site to get it fixed. I put a thread adapter on it so I could put my Osprey on it. I have a couple questions for you guys. While slightly annoying the position of the safety is not horrible. I think I still am going to replace it. Has anyone tried the short safety from PMM? I was thinking of either that one or the HB industries AR Style Safeties. Also with my Osprey on it seems loud when you are shooting the gun but standing back 4 or 5 feet it seems fairly quiet. All in all I am very happy with this gun. Can't wait to get a stock on it. Lastly anyone know any one selling the 922r stock kit? LOL. 922r Thanks. |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 3:29:58 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aIIan:
How much are you guys paying for your pistols? I want to scoop one up before the ATF gets lucky about trusts. Kentucky Gun Company had the best price but are out of stock. PSA @ 769.99 and includes shipping seems to be the best deal going for a bit. Inventory must be softening a bit as PSA has had them in stock for a week now, a month ago they would not last a full day at that price. |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 3:55:32 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Idaholandho: Kentucky Gun Company had the best price but are out of stock. PSA @ 769.99 and includes shipping seems to be the best deal going for a bit. Inventory must be softening a bit as PSA has had them in stock for a week now, a month ago they would not last a full day at that price. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Idaholandho: Originally Posted By aIIan: How much are you guys paying for your pistols? I want to scoop one up before the ATF gets lucky about trusts. Kentucky Gun Company had the best price but are out of stock. PSA @ 769.99 and includes shipping seems to be the best deal going for a bit. Inventory must be softening a bit as PSA has had them in stock for a week now, a month ago they would not last a full day at that price. |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 4:01:44 PM EDT
[#44]
New models?
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Posted: 4/24/2016 4:07:04 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aIIan:
New models? Negative. I figured they would be out this week since I bought mine last week. I decided not to wait, glad I didn't... Already broken it down and taking it back in tomorrow for cerakote. Between now and then I need to pick a color - I'm down to Copper Brown and Partiot Brown. Thoughts? |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 4:08:52 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RocketCity556:
I have a feeling PSA is sitting on a good number of stock, I think the price will drop to clear out this inventory before the new models show up. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RocketCity556:
Originally Posted By Idaholandho:
Originally Posted By aIIan:
How much are you guys paying for your pistols? I want to scoop one up before the ATF gets lucky about trusts. Kentucky Gun Company had the best price but are out of stock. PSA @ 769.99 and includes shipping seems to be the best deal going for a bit. Inventory must be softening a bit as PSA has had them in stock for a week now, a month ago they would not last a full day at that price. Maybe, but no one else is budging on price unless they make it up on shipping. With no release date, msrp in sight and 41f foreplay, I say load up at the $769.99 price. |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 4:10:02 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aIIan:
New models? soon.jpg |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 5:21:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Burnsy87]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Marbsy81:
Negative. I figured they would be out this week since I bought mine last week. I decided not to wait, glad I didn't... Already broken it down and taking it back in tomorrow for cerakote. Between now and then I need to pick a color - I'm down to Copper Brown and Partiot Brown. Thoughts? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Marbsy81:
Originally Posted By aIIan:
New models? Negative. I figured they would be out this week since I bought mine last week. I decided not to wait, glad I didn't... Already broken it down and taking it back in tomorrow for cerakote. Between now and then I need to pick a color - I'm down to Copper Brown and Partiot Brown. Thoughts? I can't decide what color/camo I want to go with. I have a 'custom' Kryptek I have on one AR, plan on getting the AR SBR and both suppressors that pattern. I don't know if I wanna go an urban Kryptek, or a grey, or FDE, or what. I feel like a chick. ha |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 6:15:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bradpierson26]
[#49]
^
Patriot Brown Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aIIan:
How much are you guys paying for your pistols? I want to scoop one up before the ATF gets lucky about trusts. Old model for $758 shipped from KYgunCO. $49 shipped for a manticore 18mm to 3 lug mount and $18 30rnd mags from Lanbo's |
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Posted: 4/25/2016 8:40:39 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GunSafe:
Anyone know the turnover time at usmachineguns? I've heard the barrel nut is a bitch on the first run imports so I'm not looking forward to removing it. Mine took about 10 days door to door which is pretty good IMO. I sent it on a Monday and had it back in hand the next Wednesday. I was expecting 2+ weeks. Heat is going to be key when removing the handguard, borrow a heatgun from someone or buy a elcheapo harbor freight one. Because if its anything like my first batch gun its going to have a looooooot of thread lock to get through. 
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