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Looks good. And I fully get angling the rifle a bit, I've done it for years. I've noticed a lot of the gun guys I work out with do the same thing. The pec muscle and the deltoid do not line up straight up and down. There's some anatomy to your theory my friend :)
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The Weaver mount, is it This one ? I assume the Aimshot mount is This one . Thanks for sharing.... looks like I've got some ordering to do. Already got a couple red dots just sitting on a shelf in the safe, looking for a host. View Quote Yes, those are the correct mounts that I used. Depending on the red dots that you have already, they may or may not work. I went with a Primary Arms red dot that had the illumination dial on top rather than on the left side. I was concerned that having the dial on the left side may prevent folding. Yours may or may not work. ETA: I looked at the head-on photo of the rifle folded with the red dot - it appears to have plenty of clearance no matter which side the illumination dial would be on. I don't think you'll have a problem at all. Go for it - post up pictures of your rifle when your mod is complete. |
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Yes, those are the correct mounts that I used. Depending on the red dots that you have already, they may or may not work. I went with a Primary Arms red dot that had the illumination dial on top rather than on the left side. I was concerned that having the dial on the left side may prevent folding. Yours may or may not work. ETA: I looked at the head-on photo of the rifle folded with the red dot - it appears to have plenty of clearance no matter which side the illumination dial would be on. I don't think you'll have a problem at all. Go for it - post up pictures of your rifle when your mod is complete. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Yes, those are the correct mounts that I used. Depending on the red dots that you have already, they may or may not work. I went with a Primary Arms red dot that had the illumination dial on top rather than on the left side. I was concerned that having the dial on the left side may prevent folding. Yours may or may not work. ETA: I looked at the head-on photo of the rifle folded with the red dot - it appears to have plenty of clearance no matter which side the illumination dial would be on. I don't think you'll have a problem at all. Go for it - post up pictures of your rifle when your mod is complete. I'll likely be using a Bushnell TRS-25 (it's the best of the 3 red dots I have available). I shoot left handed, so it'll be on the left side of the rifle, dial on TRS is on the right side, at about 45 degrees. With the 45 degree offset, it'll be facing pretty much straight up. Should be plenty of clearance for folding. Thanks again. I'll be adding the Kel -Tec factory rail for a laser also (ordered it from KT yesterday, Crimson Trace Railmaster (red) is just awaiting a mount. . |
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Nice job. Good part is you can replace the plastic hand guards later should you decide to go another direction. But this looks like some well thought out work.
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Nice job. Good part is you can replace the plastic hand guards later should you decide to go another direction. But this looks like some well thought out work. View Quote Yep, before I started cutting into the hand guards I ordered a spare set from KelTec - only $14, pretty reasonable. I didn't make any mistakes so I didn't need the spare set. They're now in my parts bin if I should ever change my mind and revert back to stock. |
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Would the try-rail work for a front sight?
I want to suppress my Sub-9s and to thread the barrel something is going to have to give. I don't think there is a rail system to work with the Sub-9 variant. |
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Would the try-rail work for a front sight? I want to suppress my Sub-9s and to thread the barrel something is going to have to give. I don't think there is a rail system to work with the Sub-9 variant. View Quote I have been wanting to to do the Red Lion twisting rail but am a cheap ass. http://www.redlionprecision.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=R6 |
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Would the try-rail work for a front sight? I want to suppress my Sub-9s and to thread the barrel something is going to have to give. I don't think there is a rail system to work with the Sub-9 variant. View Quote Yes, you could lose the front sight for a suppressor and then use a tri-rail to mount a front sight to it. However, I don't know how much height difference there would be between the rear and front sight. It would take some work to ensure they are both on the same plane. The Red Lion Precision aluminum railed forend is out there, but it is pricey. I chose not to go with it because I think it adds a lot of weight to the front of the gun that I don't want nor need. I don't think the look is 'right' for the Sub2K either, but that's my own personal opinion. |
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Yes, you could lose the front sight for a suppressor and then use a tri-rail to mount a front sight to it. However, I don't know how much height difference there would be between the rear and front sight. It would take some work to ensure they are both on the same plane. The Red Lion Precision aluminum railed forend is out there, but it is pricey. I chose not to go with it because I think it adds a lot of weight to the front of the gun that I don't want nor need. I don't think the look is 'right' for the Sub2K either, but that's my own personal opinion. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Would the try-rail work for a front sight? I want to suppress my Sub-9s and to thread the barrel something is going to have to give. I don't think there is a rail system to work with the Sub-9 variant. Yes, you could lose the front sight for a suppressor and then use a tri-rail to mount a front sight to it. However, I don't know how much height difference there would be between the rear and front sight. It would take some work to ensure they are both on the same plane. The Red Lion Precision aluminum railed forend is out there, but it is pricey. I chose not to go with it because I think it adds a lot of weight to the front of the gun that I don't want nor need. I don't think the look is 'right' for the Sub2K either, but that's my own personal opinion. I don't know that the rail systems are an option for me. KelTec has told me that their Sub2000 rail will not fit on a Sub-9, and other mfgs are making their systems for the Sub2000 …. so that leaves me out of the loop. |
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I don't know that the rail systems are an option for me. KelTec has told me that their Sub2000 rail will not fit on a Sub-9, and other mfgs are making their systems for the Sub2000 …. so that leaves me out of the loop. View Quote Ah - I didn't realize you meant the original Sub9 design. In that case you may be S.O.L. You could post a question over on TheKTOG.org, but I suspect if KelTec report their rails will not work then I doubt the Red Lion will. |
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https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tU8F5nESnIw/UvRZdgifNfI/AAAAAAAAEMM/8KjiZG2oqoM/s720/IMG_2343.JPG View Quote In looking closely at your last pic, I see where you cut the holes, in referance to the "rectangles" molded into the grip on the outside surface.... so you've already done the "marking" for anyone doing this who is using the same Aimshot tri-rail. Looks like a little more than 3 rectangles wide, and from just above the lowest raised ridge, to just above the upper raised ridge (IOW, 3 rectangles high also, but a little bit above the lower and upper lines). I'll start with a little smaller cut-out than that, then hand file the plastic grip outward from the hole, until I get a nice tight fit. Thanks again. All my parts are enroute, I now have a project for next weekend. |
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Well done. My 1st project w/ my Sub-2000 is to get it to feed aught other than round nose .40" : (
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Nice mod.
I used the angled/offset approach to put an RDS on one of my SUBs as well, but using (and significantly modifying) the old factory "scope mount" kit. It works and still allows folding, but is inferior to yours in that it provides rings instead of a rail, which limits choices for an RDS vs. traditional glass (I use a Tasco ProPoint, which works in rings). I'm sure yours is better in other ways as well, but that one jumps right out at me. |
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Ah - I didn't realize you meant the original Sub9 design. In that case you may be S.O.L. You could post a question over on TheKTOG.org, but I suspect if KelTec report their rails will not work then I doubt the Red Lion will. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I don't know that the rail systems are an option for me. KelTec has told me that their Sub2000 rail will not fit on a Sub-9, and other mfgs are making their systems for the Sub2000 …. so that leaves me out of the loop. Ah - I didn't realize you meant the original Sub9 design. In that case you may be S.O.L. You could post a question over on TheKTOG.org, but I suspect if KelTec report their rails will not work then I doubt the Red Lion will. I can't find the dimensions on the try-rail mount. Can you measure it and post them? |
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I can't find the dimensions on the try-rail mount. Can you measure it and post them? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I don't know that the rail systems are an option for me. KelTec has told me that their Sub2000 rail will not fit on a Sub-9, and other mfgs are making their systems for the Sub2000 …. so that leaves me out of the loop. Ah - I didn't realize you meant the original Sub9 design. In that case you may be S.O.L. You could post a question over on TheKTOG.org, but I suspect if KelTec report their rails will not work then I doubt the Red Lion will. I can't find the dimensions on the try-rail mount. Can you measure it and post them? From side to side (as mounted on the rifle) it is 2.115" from the edge of one picatinny rail to the edge of the other picatinny rail. Each picatinny rail is 1.54" long (3 slots). (both of these measurements were taken with my digital calipers) Does that give you the answers you needed? |
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Looks good! I'm glad the mod went easily for you. Sweet, isn't it?
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Looks good! I'm glad the mod went easily for you. Sweet, isn't it? View Quote Fricken awesome! Thanks again for the inspiration. After I took the picture, I remembered I had a UTG flashlight w/ rail mount in my parts box, that I snagged at a flea market for cheap... I mounted it on the other rail. It's a small LED light, uses 1 AA battery, it's only about 60 lumens, but more than good enough for indoors, or close-up outdoors in the dark. I tried out a Surefire G2 with a CAA mount, but it was way too big. |
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Very nice work.
I intend to own a S2K in .40 sometime and was wondering how I was going to get an optic mounted. Thanks! John |
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I ended up using an AimShot tri-rail barrel mount View Quote It looks like this could be turned and mounted at 90 degrees, and with a quick detach mount an Aimpoint Micro could be stowed on the bottom rail when the Sub is closed, and then removed and mounted on the top rail after it's opened. |
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It looks like this could be turned and mounted at 90 degrees, and with a quick detach mount an Aimpoint Micro could be stowed on the bottom rail when the Sub is closed, and then removed and mounted on the top rail after it's opened. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I ended up using an AimShot tri-rail barrel mount It looks like this could be turned and mounted at 90 degrees, and with a quick detach mount an Aimpoint Micro could be stowed on the bottom rail when the Sub is closed, and then removed and mounted on the top rail after it's opened. The AimShot only has 3 rails. If you use the middle one for a top rail then there won't be one on the bottom. However, you could use the UTG version (not as good) but it has a quad rail. You'd have to find a good T1 QD mount that has a dependable, repeatable return to zero. Once you do find one then yes, it could be mounted on a top pic rail when shooting and stored elsewhere. Good point. I have three Aimpoint T1's (two on AR's one on an AK) and they are great red dots. One of mine is mounted on an ADM QD mount that has held zero the few times I've dismounted it and reattached it to the rifle. I didn't want to spend that amount of $$ on this Sub2K solution so I went the fixed and offset route. But one conceivably could do exactly as you suggested. |
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The bottom rail looks short - that is why I mentioned turning the mount 90 degrees. It looks like the bottom rail, once turned, would fit inside the hand guard. If not it could be cut off with a Dremel.
Then sections on the top and bottom of the Sub's forearm could be removed to accommodate the rails, which are now oriented top and bottom, instead of side to side. |
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The bottom rail looks short - that is why I mentioned turning the mount 90 degrees. It looks like the bottom rail, once turned, would fit inside the hand guard. If not it could be cut off with a Dremel. Then sections on the top and bottom of the Sub's forearm could be removed to accommodate the rails, which are now oriented top and bottom, instead of side to side. View Quote Yep, that could work. Do you want to be the test subject ? |
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Yep, that could work. Do you want to be the test subject ? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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The bottom rail looks short - that is why I mentioned turning the mount 90 degrees. It looks like the bottom rail, once turned, would fit inside the hand guard. If not it could be cut off with a Dremel. Then sections on the top and bottom of the Sub's forearm could be removed to accommodate the rails, which are now oriented top and bottom, instead of side to side. Yep, that could work. Do you want to be the test subject ? I just might. |
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It looks like this could be turned and mounted at 90 degrees, and with a quick detach mount an Aimpoint Micro could be stowed on the bottom rail when the Sub is closed, and then removed and mounted on the top rail after it's opened. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I ended up using an AimShot tri-rail barrel mount It looks like this could be turned and mounted at 90 degrees, and with a quick detach mount an Aimpoint Micro could be stowed on the bottom rail when the Sub is closed, and then removed and mounted on the top rail after it's opened. Turning the Aimshot 90 degrees would give you a rail on the top, but I don't think there'd be enough rail sticking out of the bottom. You could always add a rail riser block to the bottom.... return to zero isn't a concern on the bottom "storage" rail. Another thing you could do is turn the Aimshot 180, with a rail on both sides & top (might need a riser too), and "store" a detachable mount on the side. But honestly, there's nothing wrong with Troy's original set-up, other than it's not very ambidexterous. It's the first offset sight I've used... not as "differant" as it looks, as long as it's on the proper side. I'm LH, tried it with sight on right side... nah, no good, stock didn't fit my shoulder very well with top of butt plate tilted away from my body. Sight on left side was a perfect fit, tilting top of stock inward just a bit to acquire the red-dot actually fits better than straight up, in a normal position. |
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Fricken awesome! Thanks again for the inspiration. After I took the picture, I remembered I had a UTG flashlight w/ rail mount in my parts box, that I snagged at a flea market for cheap... I mounted it on the other rail. It's a small LED light, uses 1 AA battery, it's only about 60 lumens, but more than good enough for indoors, or close-up outdoors in the dark. I tried out a Surefire G2 with a CAA mount, but it was way too big. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Looks good! I'm glad the mod went easily for you. Sweet, isn't it? Fricken awesome! Thanks again for the inspiration. After I took the picture, I remembered I had a UTG flashlight w/ rail mount in my parts box, that I snagged at a flea market for cheap... I mounted it on the other rail. It's a small LED light, uses 1 AA battery, it's only about 60 lumens, but more than good enough for indoors, or close-up outdoors in the dark. I tried out a Surefire G2 with a CAA mount, but it was way too big. This was going to be my next question. Pics of the light mounted? |
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Is there any reason why a Magpul rail section like used for the MOE forearm system couldn't be used externally without cutting a hole in the forearms? Just screwing it on?
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Is there any reason why a Magpul rail section like used for the MOE forearm system couldn't be used externally without cutting a hole in the forearms? Just screwing it on? View Quote That route would not be very stable. A lot of people have screwed pic rails onto the oem plastic fore end, however it does not yield a very stable mount for an optic. I'm certain it would not hold zero accurately. The method I used in this thread really is rather simple and low cost. The optics mount is rock solid. |
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That route would not be very stable. A lot of people have screwed pic rails onto the oem plastic fore end, however it does not yield a very stable mount for an optic. I'm certain it would not hold zero accurately. The method I used in this thread really is rather simple and low cost. The optics mount is rock solid. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Is there any reason why a Magpul rail section like used for the MOE forearm system couldn't be used externally without cutting a hole in the forearms? Just screwing it on? That route would not be very stable. A lot of people have screwed pic rails onto the oem plastic fore end, however it does not yield a very stable mount for an optic. I'm certain it would not hold zero accurately. The method I used in this thread really is rather simple and low cost. The optics mount is rock solid. That's why I asked. LOL Thanks. Just wondering before I cut up my forearm LOL |
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That's why I asked. LOL Thanks. Just wondering before I cut up my forearm LOL View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Is there any reason why a Magpul rail section like used for the MOE forearm system couldn't be used externally without cutting a hole in the forearms? Just screwing it on? That route would not be very stable. A lot of people have screwed pic rails onto the oem plastic fore end, however it does not yield a very stable mount for an optic. I'm certain it would not hold zero accurately. The method I used in this thread really is rather simple and low cost. The optics mount is rock solid. That's why I asked. LOL Thanks. Just wondering before I cut up my forearm LOL Buy a new forearm from Kel Tec for $14, and cut that one.... if you mess up, or if you want to go back to original configuration, you'll have the original forearm to put back on. While you're ordering from K-T, might as well get the factory rail that fits the bottom front of the forearm too. It's perfect for a small laser, nice & close to the bore. |
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I used troy rails.. drilled the holes then used the metal backing brackets that troy rails mount too. Seems very solid.. also have an rvg mounted the same way.
Older picture but switched to a PA micro dot now IMG_20130915_152419_526 by jamiehstanley, on Flickr |
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Nicely done. Anyone have luck polishing the feed ramp? I can't get my .40" Glock mag SUB-40 to feed 'ought but round nose .40". It turns its bolt up @ standard flat tip & any hollowpoint.
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