I recently broke my ‘safe queen’ M92 Browning .44 out of the safe and started shooting it. Bought it new in the late 70’s (as I remember). However, at my age the factory buckhorn rear, even at its lowest elevation setting still printed magnum loads too high for my liking on 50 yard targets, even with the front post aligned in the lowest rear sight’s notch. And having read about ghost sights being a worthy modification, I want to try one. I also wanted to be able to attach a QD carry sling to the rifle. So the following were ordered from Brownells: 579-000-164WB Bulls Eye Long Sight; and 100-003-369AK GTSW41 Lever Rifle Mag Tube Set.
As you can see in the photo, the rear sight is set on my rifle without the elevator wedge, as this gave me a good zero at 50 yards with my .44 Special 200 gr. handloads. The mag tube sling swivel adapter fit my magazine tube perfectly and the ‘hollow set screw’ snugged down nice and tight. The machine screw type rear buttstock swivel stud I already had, and as you might tell from the photo, I drilled an undersized hole for a 10-32 tap, taped the hole accordingly and installed that type stud vs the traditional ‘wood screw’ type. Using the machine screw type stud allows for a smaller, standard-size hole, as well as a finer final adjustment position because of the finer thread pitch vs a ‘wood screw.’ And because of its length of engagement and tight fit, it isn’t ever coming lose.

I tried the Marble ghost ring but it didn't work for be because of my stigmatism and bifocals.

I sort of have the same issue (tri-focals), so I RTV'd an o-ring around the inner peep for a stronger sight picture.

As in the photo above, removing the rear sight slider put me in the black.

Rear sight was good to go, but the factory front blade had a "glint" at the top and a rounded edge I could no longer live with:

First off, I am pretty good with a file, as I once worked at an aircraft de-burr bench with a retired master machinist as my teacher. The design of this front sight is such that the wider lower section acted as a ‘rest’ for the side of the file as I undercut the narrower upper blade with its main cutting surface.  This helped control where the file cut.  As you can see in the finished photo, a little ‘ramp’ was created by the file’s edge as I undercut the blade.
Having the barrel held tightly in my bench mounted vice under a good light and using a head-mounted magnifier were big elements of this successful modification.
I used a very large/over-sized mill file because its long length is an aid in keeping it plumb. I undercut it so as to not significantly reduce the front blade’s original height because that was already too short for a dead-on hold at 50 yards and more importantly create the shadow effect. Once the undercut was right, I used a #2 cut metal 50 LPI checkering file to lay out the cross-grooves and then deepened them slightly with a 60 degree needle file (both came from Brownells).