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Posted: 6/15/2015 8:38:25 AM EDT
Serial number is in the 1935 manufacturing date range



Link Posted: 6/18/2015 11:13:17 AM EDT
[#1]
Wow, that looks pretty rough! Could be the pics?

I know older Winchesters can bring top dollar, but like anything collectible, condition is everything.

The top pic looks like there might be a gouge out of the fore stock near the rear sight. If that's so, then that would be another ding on price. What does the bore look like? Do the screws and all other components look original? It looks original to me wear wise.

Best guess: maybe $200 to the right person wanting a beater deer rifle. That's with a nice bore with plenty of rifling remaining. Maybe $250-350 to a Winchester collector willing to take a chance on a restoration project and who wants a "shooter".

I might be off base here (Winchester collectors please correct me if I am), but I wouldn't personally consider that rifle anything other than a beater/shooter, rather than a collectible item. Winchester '94's tend to bring a little more than Marlins do, but the gap is narrowing. I've seen several 94's in local gun stores recently and all were in much better condition and all except one were priced under $400. The one exception was a minty .357 mag "Legacy" model and it was $750.

Good luck!
Link Posted: 6/18/2015 10:17:43 PM EDT
[#2]
It's pre-WWII, that helps pricing.  OTOH, the condition really hurts it.  A lot.  It's not a rare or scarce configuration that would hold up the value against the condition.  The caliber might help, if it's chambered for something desirable to collectors and the bore is fine.  If the bore's condition is anything remotely like that of the exterior, it's just plain bad news for the value.


If it were a .25-35 or .30-30 with a bad bore, I'd be tempted to turn it into a .35-30 (.30-30 necked up to .35) by sending it off to get rebored Here.  Bad bore on a .32 Special or .32-40 (I'm not digging out reference books right now; I don't know if Winchester even offered the .32-40 as late as '35) leaves the option of going .38-55.  Just the possibility of going either route on an inexpensive beater/shooter would pique my interest.
Link Posted: 6/20/2015 5:27:19 PM EDT
[#3]
its .30-.30

i havent checked the bore yet
Link Posted: 6/21/2015 8:23:36 PM EDT
[#4]
If the bore is good and it still shoots well, you could probably get $200 if someone really wanted it but I'm betting probably closer to $100-150.  If I came across it locally, I'd offer $100 or maybe a little more just because I really love Winchesters and I don't have one in .30-30/.30WCF.  I'd keep it if I were you, it's in rough shape and it's sale value isn't that high but you can shoot it and get more than your money's worth of fun.

There is also the option of sending it to Turnbull and paying for a whole refinish.  Obviously it kills the collector value but you don't have much of that as is and the value of a Turnbull refinished gun is really high on it's own merits.  Of course you'll spend $3k or more to get it to that level.


Link Posted: 6/23/2015 9:48:26 PM EDT
[#5]
I have restored a couple of these in post 64s. If the bore is good and it's functional I would go $200 to have a restored pre 64 shooter.
Link Posted: 6/24/2015 12:38:01 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I have restored a couple of these in post 64s. If the bore is good and it's functional I would go $200 to have a restored pre 64 shooter.
View Quote

How did you go about restoring them?  I have a 94 in similar shale to the OP's and have contemplated restoring mine
Link Posted: 6/24/2015 12:45:39 AM EDT
[#7]
Well Id love to run up on a shooter for $200.
Link Posted: 6/24/2015 11:09:28 AM EDT
[#8]
id pay 200 for that all day. around here it would go for 400 easy, like it is
Link Posted: 6/24/2015 11:40:48 AM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
id pay 200 for that all day. around here it would go for 400 easy, like it is
View Quote

I agree, might even go for more than $400 where I live. I would very gently use oil and 0000 (4/0) steel wool and slowly remove the surface rust, it looks to me that there may still some bluing left.
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