So I finally made it out to the range with my recently acquired Model 94 (1966).
Fired off about 30 rounds and had a somewhat hard time hitting paper at about 100 yards, maybe less. Given this is my first lever action ever and getting acquainted with the sights I suppose I just need more range time. It was also a little windy and I know these flat nose bullets aren't as accurate as it's pointy brothers.
I did notice that if I aimed slightly low, that I was able to land better shots, so there's also a high chance that it just needs to be sighted in.

I had a couple issues I wanted to discuss so that I can take action towards resolving them. I really want a fairly flawless functioning rifle and I think this one is capable.
Twice I had trouble getting the last (7th) round to feed. It almost seemed stuck in the magazine tube. At one point it sort of locked up the entire function. After I stopped being gentle with it, and with a little force, I was able to free it up and fire off the last round.

The other issue was that one of the receiver screws came a little loose from firing as well as the screw for the front band that holds the tube to the barrel. That screw actually fell out twice will firing.

Would it be a mistake to apply a little blue loctite? Or should I just go ahead and really tighten up the screws?

Ammo used was some older Winchester Super X.

Here's a picture for those who didn't see my other thread.

Don't get too excited about wind drift.

A spire point in something like 243 or 223 will on paper have way less wind drift than a mild 30/30 round nose round but it's not going to be much of a issue in real life at 100 yards. I am thinking something like less than a inch difference , not something that keeps you from hitting the paper.

I am a older guy with the usual eye issues that come with age and for the most part I won't really try for paper or anything else with factory lever gun sights . I can do some reasonable work with a aperture sight , I really like the Lyman .

Problem is that I have no intention of drilling and tapping this rifle. So the iron sights will stay, however, I have considered the other iron sight options available.

Edit: If by aperture you mean this, then yeah I'd have to agree. I may end up getting these.

You might want to try some Hornandy LEVERevolution ammo, it's somewhat pointy bullet might give you a better idea of the accuracy potential.



As far as the barrel band, a little locktite won't hurt a thing, it's not something you'll be taking off in the future.



My old 94 in .32 spec will keep shots on paper at 100, but that's about all I can ask of the old girl.



As long as it's still minute of deer when the occasion arises I'm happy.

I thought about trying the LEVERevolution ammo but i'm usually not one to fall into the "special" ammo. Maybe most of the accuracy issues I had comes down to my lack of experience with these rifles.

I have to say that I had a load of fun shooting it. More than my AR or P99.

Anyone have any comment on the first issue I was having regarding the feed failure? Does it need to be broken down and cleaned? Parts need to be polished or smoothed?

I've heard of people actually cutting a small length of spring off, so to me it doesn't seem likely that it needs a new spring.

Yes, take the magazine tube off and inspect the inside. They often get rust inside. Also, people often dump oil in and never clean the sludge out year after year. Order a replacement magazine spring - they are so cheap I do this for any old levergun I work on. Check the follower and clean it up if need be, or replace it. A weak spring, rust, or oil and dirt sludge, or a combination of them, can all cause feeding problems.



Is your rifle already drilled and tapped on the left side for a receiver sight?



If not, or even if it is, this is the sight for the best style points: http://762precision.wordpress.com/product-reviews/providence-tool-company-pattern-21-sight/ They build one for '94/'92 rifles.



Don't overtighten the screws, they may have been loose to begin with, but if they are not holding, or if you are concerned about it, blue locktite is fine, just use the appropriate amounts.

So these sights can be affixed whether or not it has been drilled/tapped? I really didn't have any intentions of drilling/tapping this rifle. But I suppose it would depend on a few things.

No, you would have to drill and tap. The sight includes the bit and tap.



A standard Lyman or Williams receiver sight could be a good option though, if your receiver is already drilled for it.

I just put a Williams 5D on mine and its the cats pajamas

It really tightened up my groups.

I'm going to use it hunting this year.

You might also experiment with the torque values of both front and rear band screws. Over tightening will cause impacts to move based on barrel harmonics as the barrel heats up with repeat shots.

If you really want to know the accuracy potential of any levergun, remove the forend, mag tube, spring and follower, then shoot it as a single shot, resting off the front of the receiver.  This will prove just how much accuracy it possible.  Then, as you reassemble, and continue shooting, you should be able to pinpoint the problem with any accuracy variance.  It could be the forend wood is pressing on one side, or bottom of the barrel... and as you tighten the band screws, you exacerbate the problem.  Hence my recommendation to loosen and use a light "Loc-tite" to hold the screws.  I've proven this to myself on over 20 mdl 94 Winchesters.

This is why the "rifle" versions (no mag/barrel bands), are generally more accurate than the carbines (barrel bands).  Two of my best shooters (leverguns) are a mdl 94 carbine that was converted to a rifle with a bull barrel, and a 16" Trapper that's fitted so the barrel is just about free-floated.  Both will shoot sub MOA.  If I do my part...

All rifles are sensitive to how you hold them and the affect that has on subsequent accuracy.  The Model '94 is a particularly flimsy affair that is easily affected by changes in hold or pressure on bags.