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Posted: 10/5/2014 5:48:50 PM EDT
Picked this up over the weekend at a small gun show for $140 OTD. From the serial number looks like it was made in 1983. I put a few rounds thru it and it cycles and functions perfectly. Shot about 5 inches right at 25 yards but the sights are not factory and in bad shape.
I got it because I wanted something to work on and refurb. Suggestions welcome.  </a>" />
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Posted: 10/5/2014 5:56:56 PM EDT
[#1]
Your links are jacked.
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Posted: 10/5/2014 6:04:38 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Your links are jacked. Yeah it's ticking me off too. Don't know why yet. |
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Posted: 10/5/2014 7:16:21 PM EDT
[#3]
Good score for the money ! I would try some fine bronze wool and oil on the rust and see how it looks.
After the Bronze wool I also would try some cold blue and go from there. Unless you want to sink money into the rifle it might look good enough just cleaning it up a bit. I did the wool treatment on a old Stevens 22 rifle that sat in a closet for 40 years and looked a lot like the rust on your rifle and it cleaned up pretty nice ,not like brand new ,but not bad at all. The guy that gave me the rifle couldn't believe it was the same rifle when he saw it.
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Posted: 10/5/2014 7:20:30 PM EDT
[#4]
That doesn't look too bad at all. I'd strip it down, take a look at all of the parts, and hit them with a scrub-pad and some WD40 or Hoppe's.
From there, I'd evaluate whether I wanted to touch up the spots, or strip and re-finish the entire thing. If it was a gun I wanted to keep, I'd probably re-finish. |
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Posted: 10/5/2014 7:21:54 PM EDT
[#5]
Yup, 0000 steel wool and cold blue.
Keep it oiled after that and you got you a good cheap shooter. Awesome score! |
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Posted: 10/5/2014 7:25:09 PM EDT
[#6]
Do NOT use steel wool. Use a brass brush and/or bronze wool. It'll take the rust off & leave the blue. Then you just have to touch up the spots that were rusty, or just leave them alone.
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Posted: 10/7/2014 3:13:45 PM EDT
[#7]
Bore condition?
The floorplate screw in front of the trigger guard is backing out. |
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Posted: 10/8/2014 2:38:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do NOT use steel wool. Use a brass brush and/or bronze wool. It'll take the rust off & leave the blue. Then you just have to touch up the spots that were rusty, or just leave them alone. I have used 0000 steel wool with oil and it has never taken the hot blued finish off of metal.... It worked great. I will say that brass or bronze will rub off onto the steel leaving something like a gold tint on it. |
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Posted: 10/8/2014 4:20:37 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Bore condition? The floorplate screw in front of the trigger guard is backing out. Bore seems fine. It's micro grooved so cuts are light. I don't see rust or pitting with bore light. Don't know about the screw, I tightened it up and it seemed fine. At this point I have completely disassembled it and all internals had no rust and is in great shape. |
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Posted: 10/8/2014 4:29:16 PM EDT
[#10]
Disassembled and started the rust removal process. Oil and 0000 steel wool not doing too good yet. May have to try something else. Also of note, so far the steel wool doesn't seem to be affecting the bluing yet and I scrubbed the crap out of it last night.
I'll keep posting updates and pics if anyone is interested. Couple of receiver pics after vigorous steel wool and oil message.  </a>" />
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Posted: 10/9/2014 12:12:33 AM EDT
[#11]
Try the Kramers antique restorer. A little pricey, but I've used it on metal with good results
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Posted: 10/9/2014 12:21:24 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have used 0000 steel wool with oil and it has never taken the hot blued finish off of metal.... It worked great. I will say that brass or bronze will rub off onto the steel leaving something like a gold tint on it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Do NOT use steel wool. Use a brass brush and/or bronze wool. It'll take the rust off & leave the blue. Then you just have to touch up the spots that were rusty, or just leave them alone. I have used 0000 steel wool with oil and it has never taken the hot blued finish off of metal.... It worked great. I will say that brass or bronze will rub off onto the steel leaving something like a gold tint on it. Sorry, steel wool will take hot blue off easily, every time. The "gold tint" left by proper rust removing with brass or bronze can be wiped off, it's left there because it's softer. The hot bluing you will remove with steel wool can not be back wiped on. The scratches can't be wiped off either. |
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Posted: 10/15/2014 5:43:34 PM EDT
[#13]
Cold blue will cover areas where finish came off. That gun is prone candidate for sand blast, spray on finish.
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Posted: 10/21/2014 7:15:32 PM EDT
[#14]
All finished. Turned out pretty well, NOT perfect, but good enough for a first attempt at bluing. The wood turned out great, I have done that many times. I'm pretty satisfied for a $140 gun.
I didn't put any more money into the gun. It came with Williams fire sights which I do not like. I think they are cheap. They break easy. I broke a ring off the front sight getting it off. Propping it up in the corner could cause a break if it slides around. It still needs some touch on the bluing in spots. Maybe one day when I get set up I'll do a black Durcoate on it.  " />
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:25:31 PM EDT
[#15]
Looks good
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:28:42 PM EDT
[#16]
Looking good, how did you do the wood?
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:01:50 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looking good, how did you do the wood? Stripped old finish with paint stripper and scrapper. Scrubbed with mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool to clean up any residue. Let dry and repeat for any remaining lacquer, this leaves the wood very clean. Used an iron and wet cloth to steam out dents and scratches. Light sanding with 320 sand paper and then a finer grit to get out any scratches from heavier grit. Cleaned up with tack cloth. Repeated application of Berchwood Casey Tru-Oil then very light 0000 steel wool and tack cloth between applications. I applied 5 applications of Tru-Oil. The more applications of Tru-Oil the glossier it will get. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 11:35:28 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stripped old finish with paint stripper and scrapper. Scrubbed with mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool to clean up any residue. Let dry and repeat for any remaining lacquer, this leaves the wood very clean. Used an iron and wet cloth to steam out dents and scratches. Light sanding with 320 sand paper and then a finer grit to get out any scratches from heavier grit. Cleaned up with tack cloth. Repeated application of Berchwood Casey Tru-Oil then very light 0000 steel wool and tack cloth between applications. I applied 5 applications of Tru-Oil. The more applications of Tru-Oil the glossier it will get. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Looking good, how did you do the wood? Stripped old finish with paint stripper and scrapper. Scrubbed with mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool to clean up any residue. Let dry and repeat for any remaining lacquer, this leaves the wood very clean. Used an iron and wet cloth to steam out dents and scratches. Light sanding with 320 sand paper and then a finer grit to get out any scratches from heavier grit. Cleaned up with tack cloth. Repeated application of Berchwood Casey Tru-Oil then very light 0000 steel wool and tack cloth between applications. I applied 5 applications of Tru-Oil. The more applications of Tru-Oil the glossier it will get. Thanks, nice work. I've done a couple of Tru oil stock refinished, but it's been a while. I think I'm going to try tung oil next time, and I have a few leverguns in need of a refinish. |
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