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Posted: 8/29/2014 6:04:53 PM EDT
[#1]
I would bead blast and park, myself.
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Posted: 8/29/2014 7:24:13 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would bead blast and park, myself. This or there are plenty of very durable coatings that can be applied now a days |
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Posted: 8/29/2014 7:39:33 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This or there are plenty of very durable coatings that can be applied now a days Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I would bead blast and park, myself. This or there are plenty of very durable coatings that can be applied now a days Cerakote? |
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Posted: 8/30/2014 9:59:18 AM EDT
[#5]
Should I just disassemble, hand sand all the metal and cold blue?
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Posted: 8/30/2014 10:29:45 AM EDT
[#6]
Cold blue rusts instantly on contact with the slightest bit of moisture.
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Posted: 8/30/2014 10:34:34 AM EDT
[#7]
blast it and park it or blast it and cerakote it.
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Posted: 8/31/2014 4:56:10 AM EDT
[#8]
On the receiver, it depends on the year it was made. If it is a 60s or 70s rifle, you might have to get creative with it.
You can do a cold blue or a browning using Brownells Oxpho Blue or Birchwood Casey Plum Brown on the metal parts. You can do the reciever in a French grey if it is not able to be blued. You can send it off for case hardening. Or you could antique it, which looks good, too. This Rossi got a stock refinish some markings removed and reblued, nitre blue on screws, sling swivel and small parts, and a fake case colouring on the barrel bands, rear sight, lever, bolt, and hammer. This could be done on a reciever as well:        The following are a couple rifles that were antiqued:      Vinegar and Plum Brown work well for the antiquing. For $160, you cant really go wrong. I would jump on it if I were you. If you decide against it, let me know - I'm looking for one for one of my kids to fix up. |
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Posted: 8/31/2014 9:16:46 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: On the receiver, it depends on the year it was made. If it is a 60s or 70s rifle, you might have to get creative with it. You can do a cold blue or a browning using Brownells Oxpho Blue or Birchwood Casey Plum Brown on the metal parts. You can do the reciever in a French grey if it is not able to be blued. You can send it off for case hardening. Or you could antique it, which looks good, too. This Rossi got a stock refinish some markings removed and reblued, nitre blue on screws, sling swivel and small parts, and a fake case colouring on the barrel bands, rear sight, lever, bolt, and hammer. This could be done on a reciever as well: http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_5827.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-92-stock-rear-sling-swivel.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-92-454-lever.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-545-1.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-r92-454-casull.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-454-casull-rifle-cleaned-up.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-92-front-barrel-band.jpg The following are a couple rifles that were antiqued: http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/rossi-92-large-loop-antique.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/1876-nwmp-buttstock.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/antique-rossi-92-carbine.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/1876-nwmp-carbine.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/1876-nwmp-in-the-snow.jpg Vinegar and Plum Brown work well for the antiquing. For $160, you cant really go wrong. I would jump on it if I were you. If you decide against it, let me know - I'm looking for one for one of my kids to fix up. |
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Posted: 8/31/2014 9:52:23 AM EDT
[#10]
I would jump on it and spend some time making it look 'original'
Clean up the stock and refinish it, but let any dents and gouges as they give it 'character'. The go to work on the metal parts. Back in the 70's and 80's I would scour the back country small gun stores and pawn shops looking for old worn rifle to 'rescue'. It was a hobby for me .... I did all the wood and had others do the metal stuff. I actually found a .22 bolt action rifle that had no serial number ..... I had no clue that at one time 22's were made without serial numbers. Post Provost Marshall told me I had to engrave an ID number in the gun to register it with them so I could keep it in my base housing. |
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Posted: 8/31/2014 10:39:39 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Cerakote? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I would bead blast and park, myself. This or there are plenty of very durable coatings that can be applied now a days Cerakote? That's what I'd be inclined to do. It's plenty durable, can match the rifle to the surroundings, and isn't going to be too pretty to use (unlike color case and nitre blue). |
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Posted: 8/31/2014 11:21:26 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Those are beautiful. Really nice work. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
For $160, you cant really go wrong. I would jump on it if I were you. If you decide against it, let me know - I'm looking for one for one of my kids to fix up.  That is very nice work!
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Posted: 8/31/2014 1:29:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Depending on the vintage many of the post-'64 M94 receivers do not take hot bluing well (they come out purple). A coating would likely turn out better. I don't recall if they have issues with parkerization.
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Posted: 8/31/2014 5:15:08 PM EDT
[#14]
I would rather antique it than coat it, but coatings can look good too:
  This is what it looked like before. The metal and wood are all the same, except for a couple screws, springs, sights, and the buttplate:   |
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Posted: 8/31/2014 8:33:24 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
On the receiver, it depends on the year it was made. If it is a 60s or 70s rifle, you might have to get creative with it. You can do a cold blue or a browning using Brownells Oxpho Blue or Birchwood Casey Plum Brown on the metal parts. You can do the reciever in a French grey if it is not able to be blued. You can send it off for case hardening. Or you could antique it, which looks good, too. This Rossi got a stock refinish some markings removed and reblued, nitre blue on screws, sling swivel and small parts, and a fake case colouring on the barrel bands, rear sight, lever, bolt, and hammer. This could be done on a reciever as well: http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_5827.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-92-stock-rear-sling-swivel.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-92-454-lever.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-545-1.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-r92-454-casull.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-454-casull-rifle-cleaned-up.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/rossi-92-front-barrel-band.jpg The following are a couple rifles that were antiqued: http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/rossi-92-large-loop-antique.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/1876-nwmp-buttstock.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/antique-rossi-92-carbine.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/1876-nwmp-carbine.jpg http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/1876-nwmp-in-the-snow.jpg Vinegar and Plum Brown work well for the antiquing. For $160, you cant really go wrong. I would jump on it if I were you. If you decide against it, let me know - I'm looking for one for one of my kids to fix up. I bought the gun. What is French Grey??? |
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Posted: 8/31/2014 9:01:55 PM EDT
[#16]
FWIW, the buggered up screws can usually be fixed if you can't or don't want to buy replacements. I found a pretty good tutorial here. I done it before and had good results.
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Posted: 9/1/2014 2:11:03 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I bought the gun. What is French Grey??? French grey can be accomplished in several different ways, but basically, it is a sort of natural grey color of the metal, not brightly polished, likeyou see with rifle that are engraved, where the reciever and barrel bands are grey instead of blued. I cat tell you some techniques for doing this easily. |
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Posted: 9/1/2014 10:44:46 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good, I hoped you would. French grey can be accomplished in several different ways, but basically, it is a sort of natural grey color of the metal, not brightly polished, likeyou see with rifle that are engraved, where the reciever and barrel bands are grey instead of blued. I cat tell you some techniques for doing this easily. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I bought the gun. What is French Grey??? French grey can be accomplished in several different ways, but basically, it is a sort of natural grey color of the metal, not brightly polished, likeyou see with rifle that are engraved, where the reciever and barrel bands are grey instead of blued. I cat tell you some techniques for doing this easily. You have my attention........ 
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Posted: 9/2/2014 9:49:13 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
... This Rossi got a stock refinish some markings removed and reblued, nitre blue on screws, sling swivel and small parts, and a fake case colouring on the barrel bands, rear sight, lever, bolt, and hammer. This could be done on a reciever as well: http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_5827.jpg ... The following are a couple rifles that were antiqued: http://762precision.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/rossi-92-large-loop-antique.jpg ... Vinegar and Plum Brown work well for the antiquing. For $160, you cant really go wrong. I would jump on it if I were you. If you decide against it, let me know - I'm looking for one for one of my kids to fix up. Nice. I have to take a look on a large screen later. |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 10:36:32 AM EDT
[#20]
Make sure it shoots and cycles before any cosmetics.
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Posted: 9/2/2014 7:24:36 PM EDT
[#21]
I agree with 7.62 Precision, hard to go wrong with $160 model 94. Buy it to practice on. If whatever finish you put on it doesn't work out, strip it off and start over.
I would gladly buy it for a project rifle. |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 3:46:04 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Cold blue rusts instantly on contact with the slightest bit of moisture. Nope... I have a Stevens 60 .22 that I picked up for $40. Stock in great shape. Brown rust everywhere. Bought a bottle of cold blue from Brownells. Sanded the entire gun with 600 grit and Ballistol. Degreased with Brake Cleaner. 8 coats of cold blue applied with cotton balls and rubbed in with 0000 steel wool. Water basically beads up on the surface. I suppose if I left it in the rain over night it might rust, but then again, just about any blued gun will. |
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Posted: 9/5/2014 9:49:31 AM EDT
[#23]
762Precision,
I am interested - how do you do a fake case coloring? Thanks, Norm |
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Posted: 9/5/2014 10:25:53 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
762Precision, I am interested - how do you do a fake case coloring? Thanks, Norm Send it to Turnbull.  
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Posted: 9/5/2014 10:48:23 AM EDT
[#25]
I'd tear the gun down, clean, lube and then hit the rust with some oil-soaked XXX steel wool and call it good. Everybody should have one turd of a gun . . . Sounds like a perfect candidate.
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Posted: 9/7/2014 3:24:13 PM EDT
[#26]
What I would do: Give it a good clean and lube job. Especially clean the bore- an otis kit and hoppes or shooters choice is awesome for this if you don't want to disassemble.Remove the wood, sand and linseed. Clean all the metal surfaces with CLP, remove rust by carefully rubbing with CLP and 000 steel wool. then dry the outside metal and cover all surfaces with a thin coat of Flitz metal polish. Let it sit until it gets crusty, then hand buff with 100% cotton from an old t shirt. Replace all the screws, they should be easy to get from a company like numerich or brownells. you may want to replace the mag spring.Assemble, and re-lube with CLP. Then enjoy as a wall hanger, or put it in a padded case with a box of shells and use as a truck gun.
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Posted: 9/23/2014 2:54:13 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 762Precision, I am interested - how do you do a fake case coloring? Thanks, Norm I will be writing an article, but in the mean time, send me an email, I'll tell you how, and the same for others who had questions. |
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Posted: 9/24/2014 11:44:06 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'd tear the gun down, clean, lube and then hit the rust with some oil-soaked XXX steel wool and call it good. Everybody should have one turd of a gun . . . Sounds like a perfect candidate. Agree. A beat to shit Winchester model 94 is a thing of beauty. Edit; The only rescue this one needs is for Opie to take it home and feed it. |
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Posted: 10/5/2014 5:21:31 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Send it to Turnbull. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
762Precision, I am interested - how do you do a fake case coloring? Thanks, Norm Send it to Turnbull. You couldn't afford it. years ago when he was just the local gunshop smith at Creekside Gnshop you could heve them do it. Now your paying for the name and the cost of doing buisness in NY. You can fake case color by oil and torch, but its not hardened, it can wear right off and you need to laquer coat it to protect the color from wearing off. |
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Posted: 10/6/2014 3:30:27 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You couldn't afford it. years ago when he was just the local gunshop smith at Creekside Gnshop you could heve them do it. Now your paying for the name and the cost of doing buisness in NY. You can fake case color by oil and torch, but its not hardened, it can wear right off and you need to laquer coat it to protect the color from wearing off. |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 5:01:48 PM EDT
[#31]
For $159, get it and strip it down and ceracoat it.
I bought a used and abused 1894S in 44 Mag years ago for $100. Stripped it down and and black powder coated it. It has been my crappy weather deer hunting rifle for almost 20 years now. Still looks as good as when I coated it. |
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Posted: 3/25/2015 10:58:26 PM EDT
[#32]
If you wanna do it yourself and dont have blasting equipment, oven etc for cerakote, the Brownells Alumahyde II isnt bad for a rifle. It is not as durable and rubs easier which dosent work well for a gun carried in a holster but for a rifle it will hold up pretty well and can even be speed cured in a regular oven for a harder finish (not as temp sensative as cerakote)
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Posted: 3/26/2015 4:23:08 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
I found a Winchester 94 in 30-30 at of all places Cabelas for $159. I put it on hold because I wanted to think it over. The stock is beat to hell with several scratches and gouges but no cracks in it. Most of the screws look like that have been butchered by Freddy Kruger and the metal looks about as smooth as a 15 year olds complexion. The front sight is sound, but looks like a baby that has been dropped too many times by it's meth head mother. Several bands of light orange rust on it and there is only minor pitting. The action is incredibly smooth....probably from years of hard use. The muzzle looks sound and the inside of the barrel looks great. I can fix the stock, but I am looking for suggestions on how to refinish the metal my self. Any finishes out there that would fill in any of the slight pit marks and give the gun an overall dark or black finish? Any recommendations? I want to try and save this rifle. For $159, I figure I really can't go wrong? OP, for a buck fifty-nine you simply can't go wrong if the gun functions properly and shoots reasonably good. Depending on your mechanical skill levels (94's can be a bitch to completely tear down and re-assemble if you don't know how), you can: - sand down and Tru-oil all wood (with care you can file out some gouges) - steam out dents - completely apart, derust with oil (any) & steel wool, draw file & flat sand bbl & receiver and other parts to remove rust pits (take care not to screw up printing and sharp edges) - Brownell's ospho blue (decent finish/color), simple to use - Brownell's Belgian Blue (a true rust blue that you can do yourself but takes effort and lots of time) results can look very professional - any of the spray finishes (not my personal favorite but lots of people seem to like them) - replace all messed up screws from Numrich or another parts house - or, re-dress messed up screws with jeweler's files If done correctly, the above results can be a near new looking rifle or, pretty much leave it as is, give it a good steel wooling & apply a few coats of ospho blue and replace the worst of the buggered screws. Results - a good used 94 that you arn't afraid to take out in the woods and use. MLG |
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