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Posted: 6/24/2014 6:25:10 PM EDT
I'm looking at getting a Ruger New Vaquero in .45 Colt and I'd like to get a rifle/carbine with in the same caliber.

In the Marlin and Winchester products which would be some models to look at? New or second-hand.
Link Posted: 6/24/2014 6:33:55 PM EDT
[#1]
I have a Winchester Trapper in .45 Colt, Love it, short, handy, accurate and with a 300 gr hot load it has some power
Link Posted: 6/24/2014 6:38:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Look at the SASS shooters since they shoot more than the bssement dwelling GD denizens.  The Rossi has a large following since it can handle that use&abuse. Several hundred rounds a day is typical of a match.

In fact, I was looking at one today.
Link Posted: 6/24/2014 6:41:55 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Look at the SASS shooters since they shoot more than the bssement dwelling GD denizens.  The Rossi has a large following since it can handle that use&abuse. Several hundred rounds a day is typical of a match.

In fact, I was looking at one today.
View Quote


I do cowboy action shooting and the Rossi 92 would get my vote! They have several models available in both blued and stainless finishes and a variety of barrel lengths.  
Link Posted: 6/24/2014 7:01:07 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Look at the SASS shooters since they shoot more than the bssement dwelling GD denizens.  The Rossi has a large following since it can handle that use&abuse. Several hundred rounds a day is typical of a match.

In fact, I was looking at one today.
View Quote


73 and 66 are faster running guns at the top levels but the 92 is probably stronger and is absolutely easier to carry both due to weight and length..  Use very good protective lenses if you use the light cowboy loads since gas tends to blow by the shell and send a puff of hot gas into your face ( if the case isn't expanded enough) from some lever actions as well as pump actions.
Link Posted: 6/24/2014 7:02:56 PM EDT
[#5]
If you're looking to use heavy 45colt loads, then the Rossi is your best bet as the 92's action is very, very strong (comes in 454 Casull).



Rossi Blued 20" 45colt Carbine from Bud # R92-57001





Rossi Blued 24" 45colt Rifle from Bud's # R92-52001





Rossi Stainless Steel 24" 45colt Rifle from Bud's # R92-252011





The pictures on Bud's aren't necessarily accurate.  Go to Rossi's page HERE to see a correct picture of the described model.  



If you're looking for only standard (14,000psi max) loads and lower cowboy loads and can afford double the price, then the Uberti 1866 and 1873s are sweet.



I have two Rossi 357mag leverguns, a 20" carbine and a 24" case hardened receiver rifle I use for long range steel plate shooting up to 300 yds.  357mag loads can go from 110grn mouse fart 650fps loads to 180grn hard cast 1,851fps hunting loads, and fire breathing 158grn 2,153fps loads.  



I also have two Uberti 45colt leverguns; a 1866 Yellowboy 19" carbine and a 1873 Special Sporting 24" rifle.  While these only can handle the standard pressure 45colt loads, they are a hoot to shoot too.




 
Link Posted: 6/24/2014 7:30:30 PM EDT
[#6]
I too recommend looking at Rossi's M92.  I have one, and it has digested many, many standard loads and more than a few heavy loads.  (300 grains at 1425 FPS, not too shabby for a pistol caliber carbine).

Mine really needs peep sights, or maybe I should say that my old eyes really need a good peep sight.
Link Posted: 6/24/2014 7:35:29 PM EDT
[#7]
I have a couple Rossi92 rifles and they are adequate, my winchester trapper is great but it is a 94 action, kinda long for the .45 round. I also have Uberti 73 in .45 it is very very nice

I have a Uberti revolving carbine in .45 too but it isn't a lever action obviously and it is loud as fuck even with hearing pro
Link Posted: 6/25/2014 8:12:04 AM EDT
[#8]
I will second that, my Ranch Hand is a Rossi 92
Link Posted: 6/27/2014 9:20:40 AM EDT
[#9]
As noted above the Model 92, whether it's made by Winchester, by Rossi 92 or by Armi Sport is a very strong firearm.  The Rossi Model 92 is also chambered in ,454 Casull, which operates at 65,000 psi, so even 32,000 psi Tier 3 .45 Colt loads are a walk in the park for it.  And you can also consider getting one in .454 Casull as you could always shoot .45 Colt in it as well.

-----

The Rossi 92 offers the best bang for the buck, but you'll want to look for the pre-purchase checklist posted at rossi-rifleman.com as Rossi's QA is a little spotty.  

Once you have one, you can make some minor modifications that really improve the smoothness of the action. Stevesgunz.com sells a video showing what and where to polish the action and sells a package that includes a lighter ejector spring.  You can also get a plug to replace the pig tail safety on the bolt.   One thing you need to replace is the plastic magazine follower as they will expand and eventually stick in the tube.  Stevesgunz also sells a metal magazine follower.

Once you clean the preservative off, the exterior polish and blue is very nice.  The stock finish is not exceptional, but it make s great stain that you can apply Tru-oil on top of with no need to remove it.   The first couple coats will dry a slower than normal (18-24 hours) as they integrate with the base finish but after that the rest will dry down normally.  The end result is a very nice oil finished stock.

Rossi sells them in 16" and 20" carbine versions as well as in a 24" rifle configuration, although the barrel profile on their rifle is too heavy for my tastes.

-----

Winchester is making the Model 92 again but it's pricy and their bluing is way too black and lifeless for my tastes.   You can still find a Model 94 Trapper in .45 Colt, but the action is not as strong as the Model 92, it's about and inch and a quarter longer and with the toggle link it is not nearly as fast or smooth as a Model 92.  

-----

Armi Sport makes a great copy of the Winchester Model 92, one that is a more accurate clone than the Rossi, and they are very nicely made and very slick cycling out of the box.   They are however about twice as expensive as a Rossi.  Armi sport sells them in 20" carbine and 24" rifle configurations and has gotten the barrel profiles right so they handle very nicely.   They also make a 24" take down version.  

-----

The Model 92 in .45 Colt with a 20" barrel, IMHO, handles much better than the 16" version and with the shorter action of the model 92, it's only about 2 1/2 inches longer than a 16" Model 94 Trapper carbine.

This is my 20" Rossi Model 92 Carbine:



This is my Armi Sport Model 92 Take down rifle with 24" barrel:





       
Link Posted: 6/27/2014 11:30:02 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

The Rossi 92 offers the best bang for the buck, but you'll want to look for the pre-purchase checklist posted at rossi-rifleman.com as Rossi's QA is a little spotty.  
...

Once you clean the preservative off, the exterior polish and blue is very nice.  The stock finish is not exceptional, but it make s great stain that you can apply Tru-oil on top of with no need to remove it.   The first couple coats will dry a slower than normal (18-24 hours) as they integrate with the base finish but after that the rest will dry down normally.  The end result is a very nice oil finished stock.

       
View Quote


I love the pics of your Rossi.  So all you did to the wood was apply a few coats of Tru-oil to make it looks that nice?  In person is it not too shiny or slick?  I think the only thing I've ever used Tru-Oil on was the stock of my T/C Hawken flintlock kit (applied to the raw walnut).  I have a SS .454 Rossi on layaway so I might want to do this to it (have not yet seen it).

Rob
Link Posted: 6/28/2014 8:46:29 PM EDT
[#11]
I have shot most of the available leverguns in .45 Colt.......that being said.....I have 3  Marlin 1894's in .45 Colt.......24" barrels!!!
Link Posted: 6/29/2014 7:32:27 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I love the pics of your Rossi.  So all you did to the wood was apply a few coats of Tru-oil to make it looks that nice?  In person is it not too shiny or slick?  I think the only thing I've ever used Tru-Oil on was the stock of my T/C Hawken flintlock kit (applied to the raw walnut).  I have a SS .454 Rossi on layaway so I might want to do this to it (have not yet seen it).

Rob
View Quote
Tru-oil is nice as you can control the final shine based on how you buff the final coat.

I usually put three coats of Tru-oil on initially, then use 0000 steel wool to knock it back close to the bare wood (or in this case close to but not touching the base finish as you want to take care not to remove the original stain/finish).  Then I add 3 more coats and again knock it back, continuing the process until the grain is well filled.  It normally takes about 90 minutes of drying time between coats, and each coat (especially after the first two do most of the sealing) is applied very thin with a finger tip to avoid any runs.  If you get a run or drip you just have to work it out with the wheel wool.  

Once the grain is filled and you have a nice smooth finish, you can start the final coats.  I do the same 3 coat process, but just be sure to have it in a very dust free environment and take extra care to apply the coats very thin with no runs or drips.   If I want a gloss finish, I  leave the last coat as is.  If I want a matte finish I'll use 0000 steel wool and lightly rub it down just enough to evenly remove all the shine.   If I want a semi-gloss finish I'll lightly wet sand it with 0000 steel wool to get a nice even finish.

The nice part is that if you screw up the last coat, you can just apply another coat and try it again,

Link Posted: 6/29/2014 9:29:30 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Tru-oil is nice as you can control the final shine based on how you buff the final coat.

I usually put three coats of Tru-oil on initially, then use 0000 steel wool to knock it back close to the bare wood (or in this case close to but not touching the base finish as you want to take care not to remove the original stain/finish).  Then I add 3 more coats and again knock it back, continuing the process until the grain is well filled.  It normally takes about 90 minutes of drying time between coats, and each coat (especially after the first two do most of the sealing) is applied very thin with a finger tip to avoid any runs.  If you get a run or drip you just have to work it out with the wheel wool.  

Once the grain is filled and you have a nice smooth finish, you can start the final coats.  I do the same 3 coat process, but just be sure to have it in a very dust free environment and take extra care to apply the coats very thin with no runs or drips.   If I want a gloss finish, I  leave the last coat as is.  If I want a matte finish I'll use 0000 steel wool and lightly rub it down just enough to evenly remove all the shine.   If I want a semi-gloss finish I'll lightly wet sand it with 0000 steel wool to get a nice even finish.

The nice part is that if you screw up the last coat, you can just apply another coat and try it again,

View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:

I love the pics of your Rossi.  So all you did to the wood was apply a few coats of Tru-oil to make it looks that nice?  In person is it not too shiny or slick?  I think the only thing I've ever used Tru-Oil on was the stock of my T/C Hawken flintlock kit (applied to the raw walnut).  I have a SS .454 Rossi on layaway so I might want to do this to it (have not yet seen it).

Rob
Tru-oil is nice as you can control the final shine based on how you buff the final coat.

I usually put three coats of Tru-oil on initially, then use 0000 steel wool to knock it back close to the bare wood (or in this case close to but not touching the base finish as you want to take care not to remove the original stain/finish).  Then I add 3 more coats and again knock it back, continuing the process until the grain is well filled.  It normally takes about 90 minutes of drying time between coats, and each coat (especially after the first two do most of the sealing) is applied very thin with a finger tip to avoid any runs.  If you get a run or drip you just have to work it out with the wheel wool.  

Once the grain is filled and you have a nice smooth finish, you can start the final coats.  I do the same 3 coat process, but just be sure to have it in a very dust free environment and take extra care to apply the coats very thin with no runs or drips.   If I want a gloss finish, I  leave the last coat as is.  If I want a matte finish I'll use 0000 steel wool and lightly rub it down just enough to evenly remove all the shine.   If I want a semi-gloss finish I'll lightly wet sand it with 0000 steel wool to get a nice even finish.

The nice part is that if you screw up the last coat, you can just apply another coat and try it again,



Great info, thanks. I have a pair of Rossi trappers that need the attention paid to the wood.

Next project is going to be a refinish of a Browning 92 in 357.
Link Posted: 7/1/2014 10:07:04 PM EDT
[#14]
We have twin Henry .45 Colt Big Boy's, hands down the best available.  A Winchester 94 in .45 Colt would great, I have one in .44 magnum and I love it.  The Henry is heavier than 94's but it more than makes up for it with it's butter smooth action, beautiful looks, incredible accuracy and it's made in America so you're supporting US gun makers.  In addition the big brass receiver is designed to handle the hottest factory ammo available contrary to what some folks will tell you.  They are also "heirloom" quality guns that you can pass down through the generations and it look gorgeous the whole time.  I'm a big proponent of buying American guns and keeping American gun companies going when at all possible.  Would I buy a crappy American gun over a high quality foreign copy? No, I have no use for crappy guns but fortunately for we Americans, companies like Ruger and Henry make the best guns out there.
Link Posted: 7/3/2014 7:23:57 PM EDT
[#15]
Only one choice Marlin JM 16" 1894 45colt
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