First off, let me say I'm more of an AK/HK guy and know next to nothing about lever guns(other than I carried one my first deer season) so I have a few questions and will likely pester you more knowledgeable fellers for info in the future.
So, this weekend, my father bought a Marlin 336(serial number range 26096xxx if it matters) off a friend for $250. It appears at least somewhat used, a little bit of pitting/light rust around the rear sight, a few handling marks/light-small scratches. I'm not sure why he wanted it, but I'm glad he did, because now he has NO excuse to not come hunting with me now that he has a good deer rifle!
Okay, for the questions.
First and foremost, since I do all the maintenance/cleaning of the family firearms, how do you take apart this rifle for cleaning, if at all? I can't find any obvious pins/hinges/buttons like on the battle rifles I'm used to, only LOTS of screws... are these rifles like revolvers, in that you just don't take them apart to clean? Or is there a set order to taking out the screws and popping out parts for maintenance cleaning?
Check out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1YZso7rEz8
I use grease on the end of the lever , where it slides into the bolt . If you live in a colder climate , you may need to use a good oil .
Second, the rear sight is not adjustable for windage, however, there are two screws(one in front, one behind) the front sight. Does the front sight adjust via these screws for windage/elevation or are these to take off/replace the front sight? If they do adjust, which ones do I turn for which direction of adjustment?
Typically , you use a brass punch and a hammer to knock the rear sight , slightly , to zero for windage . But settle on a standard load first .
Thirdly, what kinds of .30-30 ammo do these guns like? I'd like to just buy one kind of ammo and stick with it, and I'd like it to be effective on white tail. Are the Hornady Leverevolution rounds any good? I've been very pleased with Hornady's TAP rounds in my .45s and .308s, but don't know anything about this round they make. For sighting in, are there any set distances that work like on battle rifles(e.g. 50 yard zero = 200 yard zero) or should I just go with the tried and true 100 yard zero?
I am not a hunter , but My marlin seems to be pretty accurate with cheap Federal 170 grain soft points . Used to buy this ammo at Walley World , before the ammo & gun crazies started . I have also shot some home cast lead bullets that I reloaded .
Fourth, the lever action I borrowed from my father's friend for my first deer season was a pre '64 Winchester 94 and required COPIOUS amounts of oiling to prevent rust from forming on the ancient, thin bluing. Does the Marlin 336 have the same maintenance intensive requirement or will the light oil coating I use on my other firearms be sufficient?
If you live in a wet humid climate , you might rey grease or even Johnson Paste Wax on the external metals , instead of gun oil ?
Fifth, the rifle smells of cigarette smoke, I'm assuming from being kept in the open at the previous owner's house. Is there any particular product I should use on the wood stocks to get rid of the nasty reek?
Hoppies # 9 on the metal & good wood / furniture polish on the wood ? Or , even the Johnson Paste wax on the wood .
Thanks for your time and help in advance![/quote]
God bless
Wyr