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Link Posted: 3/13/2017 10:04:38 PM EDT
[#1]
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For me steel shims and straight on the concrete, and I live in a wet/humid area (my dealer who is an actual safe dealer, not a box store), said they have seen no issues bolted direct on concrete.



No one in the thread mentioned post tension slabs.
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Tell me about post tension slabs. I have one. Do I just check the slab for the filled holes and do my best to avoid those?
Link Posted: 3/14/2017 7:42:14 AM EDT
[#2]
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I haven't bolted mine down, it's only a 16 gun Stack On but it took about 30 minutes to get it into its final resting place.  

right now, it's so heavy it cannot move, given the extremely tight quarters it's in.

no need to bolt mine down.
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Bad logic.  Unless it is a 2 ton ft Knox, bolt it down.
Link Posted: 3/15/2017 2:49:44 PM EDT
[#3]
I am not a metallurgist, but I believe stainless is more brittle than your average fastener hardware. In this application it probably isn't a bad idea to have something that is a little less brittle and gives more.

If you have worked with stainless steel fasteners you probably know that they seem to strip easier and heads shear off easier.

I would want regular red heads for this application.
Link Posted: 3/15/2017 4:03:58 PM EDT
[#4]
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Bad logic.  Unless it is a 2 ton ft Knox, bolt it down.
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BTW I have moved my 800 lb AMSEC and my Winchester 550Lb safe my self.
Link Posted: 3/15/2017 4:03:58 PM EDT
[#5]
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Bad logic.  Unless it is a 2 ton ft Knox, bolt it down.
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BTW I have moved my 800 lb AMSEC and my Winchester 550Lb safe by my self.
Link Posted: 3/15/2017 4:31:33 PM EDT
[#6]
DO NOT DRILL INTO A TENSION SLAB!!!
Link Posted: 3/15/2017 8:01:12 PM EDT
[#7]
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DO NOT DRILL INTO A TENSION SLAB!!!
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^^^^^   READ THIS AGAIN!!!   ^^^^^
Link Posted: 3/16/2017 3:14:04 PM EDT
[#8]
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Alan is good!
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I used 1/2inch concrete anchors.  They need to be sunk into the concrete at least 5 x the diameter (so 2 1/2 inches for a 1/2 anchor).

Some recommend stainless steel anchors in concrete.

Drill the hole the entire length of the bolt, not just the length located in the concrete, so that if you ever want to remove the safe you can hammer the entire anchor into the concrete so it is flush with the floor, and don't have to lift the safe over the protruding bolt.

Use a wire brush, as well as air, to clean out the drilled hole before installing the anchor.

Drill the hole 1 size smaller than the anchor and check for fit, then enlarge to the bolt size as needed.  A wobbling bit may produce a hole slightly greater than its diameter, and you want a tight fit.

Alan is good!
Alan is good..... Alan is wise!
Link Posted: 3/16/2017 5:58:22 PM EDT
[#9]
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DO NOT DRILL INTO A TENSION SLAB!!!
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What exactly is a tension slab?
Link Posted: 3/17/2017 5:41:38 PM EDT
[#10]
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What exactly is a tension slab?
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Quoted:
DO NOT DRILL INTO A TENSION SLAB!!!
What exactly is a tension slab?
It has metal wires in it that if disturbed, will be released under pressure and possibly decapitate you.
Link Posted: 3/27/2017 12:08:55 AM EDT
[#11]
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DO NOT DRILL INTO A TENSION SLAB!!!
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What would be a safe way to bolt a safe down in a house built on a tension slab?
Link Posted: 3/27/2017 12:42:17 AM EDT
[#12]
Fine to drill into a post tension slab as long as you do not hit the cable.
Link Posted: 3/27/2017 10:54:42 AM EDT
[#13]
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Fine to drill into a post tension slab as long as you do not hit the cable.
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BUT, if you hit a cable, the potential for
Link Posted: 4/1/2017 9:02:03 AM EDT
[#14]
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BUT, if you hit a cable, the potential for
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Fine to drill into a post tension slab as long as you do not hit the cable.
BUT, if you hit a cable, the potential for
It won't slice right through the cable. I've drilled many holes in them when I was an electrician. If the drill stops moving, you are on a cable. Not rocket science.
Link Posted: 4/1/2017 11:00:23 AM EDT
[#15]
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I am not a metallurgist, but I believe stainless is more brittle than your average fastener hardware. In this application it probably isn't a bad idea to have something that is a little less brittle and gives more.

If you have worked with stainless steel fasteners you probably know that they seem to strip easier and heads shear off easier.

I would want regular red heads for this application.
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I am a metallurgist and your wrong.  It all depends on the alloy and temper, but comparing types of standard fasteners, stainless is generally weaker but less brittle. That being said, there are some pretty amazing stainless alloys out there with very high strengths.
Link Posted: 4/5/2017 1:58:52 PM EDT
[#16]
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I am a metallurgist and your wrong.  It all depends on the alloy and temper, but comparing types of standard fasteners, stainless is generally weaker but less brittle. That being said, there are some pretty amazing stainless alloys out there with very high strengths.
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And that is why I qualified my answer.

Regardless, with the fasteners available at the local Home Depot my choice would not be to use stainless. I am sure there are some great alloys out there, but the average screw that I end up buying strips much easier than the standard steel ones.

---Aaron
Link Posted: 4/16/2017 11:03:17 PM EDT
[#17]
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BUT, if you hit a cable, the potential for
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Fine to drill into a post tension slab as long as you do not hit the cable.
BUT, if you hit a cable, the potential for
Takes a lot to drill through a PT cable.

If you have a PT slab, pay for someone to come GPR your slab to get an idea of where the cables are and where you can drill.
Link Posted: 4/18/2017 12:12:54 PM EDT
[#18]
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A little too long.  I really want to get stainless steel ones, but $40 to have them shipped seems like a lot.  Since these won't be anchored in salt water, I wonder if it's really necessary.
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they sell SS redheads at home depot. At least my local one does. If we under order and run out, we'll grab them from HD. No different than the packaging
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