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Posted: 11/16/2016 3:51:39 PM EDT
Just purchased my first safe. Looking at bolting it down just on the side of a wall adjacent to the toilet in master bathroom. Should I be worried about hitting a toilet line when drilling the anchor bolt holes?
House purchased in 2002  |
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Posted: 11/16/2016 3:56:05 PM EDT
[#1]
Is moisture from shower steam going to be an issue?
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Posted: 11/16/2016 4:01:38 PM EDT
[#2]
I have not thought about that. It's really the only space I have in our current house for it right now.
I can monitor that after placement. If it is then I can bag up my items after cleaning and lubing. |
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Posted: 11/16/2016 4:11:54 PM EDT
[#3]
Looks like you shat a blue quail egg.
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Posted: 11/16/2016 4:15:00 PM EDT
[#4]
Does it have power at that location if you need a dehumidifier/goldenrod?
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Posted: 11/16/2016 4:19:25 PM EDT
[#5]
yes. Power available but would have to run a long extension cord from opposite side of where its at.
My main question is about drilling into the floor adjacent to the toilet. How likely is it that the toilet line runs that way? |
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Posted: 11/16/2016 4:33:06 PM EDT
[#6]
You are in Texas? post tension slab construction? Might be more concerned about hitting tension cable.
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Posted: 11/16/2016 5:11:01 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You are in Texas? post tension slab construction? Might be more concerned about hitting tension cable. |
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Posted: 11/16/2016 5:52:48 PM EDT
[#8]
Do you know where your city sewer lines are located - IE, which direction compared to the back / side walls of where you want to place safe?
Normally drain lines run fairly directly in that direction. Also - for possible post tensioned slab - is that an exterior wall behind the safe? Able to check along the edge of the slab for where the tension cable ends are located? |
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Posted: 11/17/2016 12:50:21 PM EDT
[#9]
Make sure the safe door will open all the way. I put one in my closet, and the safe door hits the closet door frame when it's opened. Due to the thickness of the safe door, it only exposes about 85% of the interior. It hasn't been a problem, but it wasn't something I anticipated either.
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Posted: 11/17/2016 1:41:47 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You are in Texas? post tension slab construction? Might be more concerned about hitting tension cable. Magnets? |
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Posted: 11/17/2016 2:58:27 PM EDT
[#11]
It's impossible to know the location of your sewer lines. What you could do, if you are so inclined, is pull the toilet off and take a sewer scope into it to see the route it takes. If you hire it out (usually $250 in my area) they can do a locate and tell you exactly where the sewer runs.
This is why a crawlspace is better :) |
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Posted: 11/17/2016 4:39:19 PM EDT
[#12]
Which way is the facing the street? Where are you cleanout/inspection ports?
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Posted: 11/17/2016 5:05:58 PM EDT
[#13]
Subtle poop thread is subtle.
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Posted: 11/18/2016 12:04:14 AM EDT
[#14]
I built houses for a living for 4 years and build apartments now. Assuming you're using a typical concrete anchor that only requires 3-4" of embedment/penetration, there is zero chance you will come anywhere even relatively close to that toilet sewer line. All foundation penetrations go at least a foot or two straight down before turning towards the main. Engineers try to avoid having horizontal drain pipes cross foundation trenches because the chance of soil shifting damaging pipes drastically increases. What year was your home built? Post tension didnt come about until the mid-90s so depending upon your local soil conditions, there are a few different ways the foundation could be built. The sewer systems shouldnt vary too much though. If that spot isnt over a structural beam on the slab, which it probably isnt, then the concrete is only ~4" thick there anyway.
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Posted: 11/18/2016 12:04:14 AM EDT
[#15]
I built houses for a living for 4 years and build apartments now. Assuming you're using a typical concrete anchor that only requires 3-4" of embedment/penetration, there is zero chance you will come anywhere even relatively close to that toilet sewer line. All foundation penetrations go at least a foot or two straight down before turning towards the main. Engineers try to avoid having horizontal drain pipes cross foundation trenches because the chance of soil shifting damaging pipes drastically increases. What year was your home built? Post tension didnt come about until the mid-90s so depending upon your local soil conditions, there are a few different ways the foundation could be built. The sewer systems shouldnt vary too much though. If that spot isnt over a structural beam on the slab, which it probably isnt, then the concrete is only ~4" thick there anyway.
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Posted: 11/18/2016 12:17:15 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I built houses for a living for 4 years and build apartments now. Assuming you're using a typical concrete anchor that only requires 3-4" of embedment/penetration, there is zero chance you will come anywhere even relatively close to that toilet sewer line. All foundation penetrations go at least a foot or two straight down before turning towards the main. Engineers try to avoid having horizontal drain pipes cross foundation trenches because the chance of soil shifting damaging pipes drastically increases. What year was your home built? Post tension didnt come about until the mid-90s so depending upon your local soil conditions, there are a few different ways the foundation could be built. The sewer systems shouldnt vary too much though. If that spot isnt over a structural beam on the slab, which it probably isnt, then the concrete is only ~4" thick there anyway. I deal a lot with remodels, I sell 40ish a year. Unfortunately, it's impossible to know if they were done under the watchful eye of big brother, or if the simplest solution meant sloping right after the flange. I nearly typed out a similar statement to yours, but I thought it would be misleading because I see a ton of evidence on a yearly basis that it isn't always true. My experience may be specifically based on remodels (whether improper or proper), but it is significant enough to me to give me cause to at least extend a warning. The good news is, if you hit the sewer line, it's not a difficult fix, just time consuming. lol. |
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Posted: 11/18/2016 10:02:11 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I deal a lot with remodels, I sell 40ish a year. Unfortunately, it's impossible to know if they were done under the watchful eye of big brother, or if the simplest solution meant sloping right after the flange. I nearly typed out a similar statement to yours, but I thought it would be misleading because I see a ton of evidence on a yearly basis that it isn't always true. My experience may be specifically based on remodels (whether improper or proper), but it is significant enough to me to give me cause to at least extend a warning. The good news is, if you hit the sewer line, it's not a difficult fix, just time consuming. lol. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I built houses for a living for 4 years and build apartments now. Assuming you're using a typical concrete anchor that only requires 3-4" of embedment/penetration, there is zero chance you will come anywhere even relatively close to that toilet sewer line. All foundation penetrations go at least a foot or two straight down before turning towards the main. Engineers try to avoid having horizontal drain pipes cross foundation trenches because the chance of soil shifting damaging pipes drastically increases. What year was your home built? Post tension didnt come about until the mid-90s so depending upon your local soil conditions, there are a few different ways the foundation could be built. The sewer systems shouldnt vary too much though. If that spot isnt over a structural beam on the slab, which it probably isnt, then the concrete is only ~4" thick there anyway. I deal a lot with remodels, I sell 40ish a year. Unfortunately, it's impossible to know if they were done under the watchful eye of big brother, or if the simplest solution meant sloping right after the flange. I nearly typed out a similar statement to yours, but I thought it would be misleading because I see a ton of evidence on a yearly basis that it isn't always true. My experience may be specifically based on remodels (whether improper or proper), but it is significant enough to me to give me cause to at least extend a warning. The good news is, if you hit the sewer line, it's not a difficult fix, just time consuming. lol. Yah I suppose that's true. Probably best to just pull the toilet and shine a flashlight down the pipe to see where and how deep it goes. Not terribly difficult or time consuming. |
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Posted: 11/21/2016 12:32:31 PM EDT
[#18]
I had the toilet off when I was doing tile flooring a few years back. I remember the opening going straight down.
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Posted: 11/22/2016 6:29:23 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I had the toilet off when I was doing tile flooring a few years back. I remember the opening going straight down. And, then? |
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Posted: 11/22/2016 8:43:13 PM EDT
[#20]
You know you can use an industrial strength adhesive, right? Ask in the TSG thread.
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Posted: 11/23/2016 8:25:27 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: And, then? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I had the toilet off when I was doing tile flooring a few years back. I remember the opening going straight down. And, then? |
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