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Posted: 9/17/2014 11:16:41 PM EDT
What is the best way to do it?
I have a Winchester Legends safe. Has a GSP digital lock. Won't take my combo anymore. What I think happened was my wife didn't close the safe completely. My little kids like to punch the buttons when I'm not home. So I think it reset the combo to some random # they punched in. At least that's my theory. I'm not paying someone $900 to drill and replace a safe I only paid $400 for (it is a $1200 safe that bought used). So what is the best way to do this? Thanks. ETA : So I haven't cut into the safe yet, finally got Winchester to get me an override. (had to have a letter from LEO that It was in my possession & I lawfully owned it) After placing in the combo it beeped red 3 times now when I place a number in it beeps with yellow & won't accept another code. Emailed winchester, see if they can help if not... Off to get my sawzall. ETA 2nd UPDATE!! I'm in.... So I finally got through to Winchester Safes (only 17 mind on hold) the nice lady says if the code didn't work, I need to call a locksmith. I asked why?, so she had me go to my safe, unscrew the key pad, push in one of the connections..... NOW IT WORKS! she said that sometimes when you replace the battery it knocks it out & you lose your code.... Whatever I'm changing to a dial lock for Christmas. |
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I don't see how a kid pressing buttons would change the combo. Try removing the front and put in a new battery, and try again.
If you just want your stuff out, you can cut the top open with a Sawz All. If you want to use the safe again, then you need to know where to drill it. The factory would give drill points to a registered lock smith. |
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Quoted:
I don't see how a kid pressing buttons would change the combo. Try removing the front and put in a new battery, and try again. If you just want your stuff out, you can cut the top open with a Sawz All. If you want to use the safe again, then you need to know where to drill it. The factory would give drill points to a registered lock smith. View Quote Them pressing the buttons while it was still open. My wife would close it but it would not lock. When not locked the code can be reset according to the owners manual. Either way I need to open it. The lock Smith said it will be at least $850 to drill and replace the lock. |
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If it's a GSP simple solenoid lock, then it can be opened by a pro with a coat hanger. My record is about 5 seconds. Combination is easy to reset, assuming everything else is working properly. If the pro doesn't know the coat hanger trick, there's a scope trick that will also get it open without drilling, again, assuming everything is working properly.
You're talking to the wrong "locksmith". No drilling, no lock replacing (assuming the lock is indeed functioning properly), and no $850 bill required. |
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Is there anyway I can do the the "trick"? Or is it a trade secret?
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Go try your combination one more time. It might work.
Otherwise, call a friend that has some mechanical skills. It wouldn't take much to cut your safe open and then repair it..............as long as the hourly rate is calculated in beer. $900 sounds steep. Shop around. $900 may be cheap if you do the math on the contents. |
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It's such a good secret that there are several in the trade that don't even know it.
If you want to give me your zip code (you can PM me if you don't want to post it here), I'll see who's down in your area. It would cost you around $300 here in the St. Louis area. |
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It probably says to reset the code with the door open, to reduce the chance of lockout. I am not sure how it would know if the door was locked or not.
I would change the batteries and try again. Maybe there is not enough power for the solenoid. Also make sure the handle does not have force against the mechanism. |
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Call locksmith. Also, manufacturer sometimes can help depending on how the combo is set up.
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so stupid question but I would assume that the battery and keypad are on the outside of the case, as is the tiny keypad. from the keypad to the inside of the safe door there will be 2 wires, one will be positive and one negative... I MIGHT try you know powering the solenoid directly bypassing the keypad... Ah la directly power the starter on a car bypassing the key.
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I MIGHT try you know powering the solenoid directly bypassing the keypad... Ah la directly power the starter on a car bypassing the key. View Quote This is why I like do it yourselfers. Don't do that. You'll fry the electronics. |
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Quoted:
so stupid question but I would assume that the battery and keypad are on the outside of the case, as is the tiny keypad. from the keypad to the inside of the safe door there will be 2 wires, one will be positive and one negative... I MIGHT try you know powering the solenoid directly bypassing the keypad... Ah la directly power the starter on a car bypassing the key. View Quote Yeah it would have to be a REALLY cheap and REALLY poorly designed safe for that to work. They don't work like that. |
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Can you hear the solenoid working when you type in the combo?
I have a vault at work that I replaced the old lock with a digital S&G and often it won't open when the last person closed it softly... I have to slam the handle into closed position again, wait for the solenoid to re-lock after a few seconds, and try the code again. I like to think that if there is pressure on the plunger of the lock it won't open as a safely measure... |
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You should be able to beat the top open like a pop can with a 3 lb sledge.
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Can't the safe company send you some type of override code to reset the lock? As long as you have proof that it's your safe?
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Stories like this are why I didn't go with an electronic lock. Combination lock only takes a few seconds longer and all the locksmiths on this board say that the majority of their calls are on the digital locks.
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does it have a time out for too many wrong combos? Is it something you could wait 24hrs and try again?
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I have 2 safes with electronic locks and if I did it again I would have a traditional lock instead. My locks have acted up occasionally since new and I have been locked out of a safe before. Thankfully it is a short time lockout and I was able to get in again later on.
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Was that the lockout from getting too many codes wrong or a malfunction?
I am sort of in the mood for a dial myself - just for fun. But my next system is an electronic with a backup key. ITL-2000 safe autodialers sell on eBay for under $400, by the way. Like this: http://web.archive.org/web/20100107094822/http://web.mit.edu/kvogt/www/safecracker.html |
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Tricks on ARFCOM.
Safe is his the neighbor's, who happens to be on a 1 week long vacation. |
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Quoted:
Stories like this are why I didn't go with an electronic lock. Combination lock only takes a few seconds longer and all the locksmiths on this board say that the majority of their calls are on the digital locks. View Quote Stories like this are the reason I paid close attention in the AMSEC thread and chose an electronic lock with a reliable track record. |
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I'm confused, your wife shut the safe? You keep sammich stuff in your gun safe?
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Could be a dead keypad. Mine is on it's third keypad I've come to hate the electronic keypads. Call the manufacturer (probably Granite) and see what they tell you.
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Friend of mine had a bad tumbler on his Liberty safe. Locksmith drilled into it and had it open in less than 10 minutes. Charged him like $50 bucks. I realize yours is digital, but call another locksmith. To get into a $400 safe without destroying it can't be that fucking hard.
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Locksmith drilled into it and had it open in less than 10 minutes. Charged him like $50 bucks. View Quote I have drill bits that cost more than that. To get into a $400 safe without destroying it can't be that fucking hard. View Quote Certainly not rocket science, but it does take valuable knowledge. Anybody can drill a hole. Not everybody knows where to drill it, or what to do with after it's there. Like I said previously, I can open this safe with a coat hanger. No drilling required. So easy, a caveman could do it......if a caveman knew how. |
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Quoted: I have drill bits that cost more than that. Certainly not rocket science, but it does take valuable knowledge. Anybody can drill a hole. Not everybody knows where to drill it, or what to do with after it's there. Like I said previously, I can open this safe with a coat hanger. No drilling required. So easy, a caveman could do it......if a caveman knew how. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Locksmith drilled into it and had it open in less than 10 minutes. Charged him like $50 bucks. I have drill bits that cost more than that. To get into a $400 safe without destroying it can't be that fucking hard. Certainly not rocket science, but it does take valuable knowledge. Anybody can drill a hole. Not everybody knows where to drill it, or what to do with after it's there. Like I said previously, I can open this safe with a coat hanger. No drilling required. So easy, a caveman could do it......if a caveman knew how. |
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Quoted:
What is the best way to do it? I have a Winchester Legends safe. Has a GSP digital lock. Won't take my combo anymore. What I think happened was my wife didn't close the safe completely. My little kids like to punch the buttons when I'm not home. So I think it reset the combo to some random # they punched in. At least that's my theory. I'm not paying someone $900 to drill and replace a safe I only paid $400 for (it is a $1200 safe that bought used). So what is the best way to do this? Thanks. View Quote override code http://winchestersafes.com/combo%20request.pdf |
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I have an S&G electronic lock on mine and pray the thing doesn't become a horror story for me...
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Quoted:
I have drill bits that cost more than that. Certainly not rocket science, but it does take valuable knowledge. Anybody can drill a hole. Not everybody knows where to drill it, or what to do with after it's there. Like I said previously, I can open this safe with a coat hanger. No drilling required. So easy, a caveman could do it......if a caveman knew how. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Locksmith drilled into it and had it open in less than 10 minutes. Charged him like $50 bucks. I have drill bits that cost more than that. To get into a $400 safe without destroying it can't be that fucking hard. Certainly not rocket science, but it does take valuable knowledge. Anybody can drill a hole. Not everybody knows where to drill it, or what to do with after it's there. Like I said previously, I can open this safe with a coat hanger. No drilling required. So easy, a caveman could do it......if a caveman knew how. If you drill the hole big enough it wouldn't matter A good axe will cut through 12ga too. |
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If you drill the hole big enough it wouldn't matter View Quote That's true. And if you're limited to small holes, if you drill enough of them, you're bound to hit something. |
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Quoted:
I have an S&G electronic lock on mine and pray the thing doesn't become a horror story for me... View Quote I had one(actually 3), after it would choose to lock me out for days on end. I had liberty send me a mech lock and had a locksmith swap it out. I do not regret it for a sec. |
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Is it bolted down? If not, you can put it on its side, cut a section out of the bottom, take out the guns, and try opening the door from the inside...tricky, but possible.
Then you can replace the lock and use it again.....if you BOLT IT DOWN. |
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I have a few safes and 1 has an electronic SG keypad
Few years ago had a single prob with it not unlocking ... tried multiple times to open - replaced battery. Just chilled a few hours then tried again and BINGO it opened. maybe has a shutdown mode if you try to open too many times in a row ? Maybe the batter R&R did the trick. Not really sure. Never figured out what was wrong and it only happened that 1 series of events. I prefer the spin dial. But keypad is nice for a 10 second open. Hope this info helps you BTW - there is a very long specific series of codes and steps to change the master combination. not a chance in a million your kids accidently reset to a different combo if your keypad works similar to mine to add pass codes - reset / change etc. |
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Didn't read every post, but on the electronic safes I've seen there is a key lock under the key pad if you pull it off. This was on Winchester branded ones at least
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Okay... that is one of those cheesy solenoids blocking boltwork. If it's not bolted down, then all you need to do is tip it back, let it fall forward and turn the handle just as it slams on the floor. Get the timing right and you will be in.
Options #2... if you know about where the button is, drill a small hole in the side nearest the button, and use a probe to find and push the button... walla! |
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Okay... that is one of those cheesy solenoids blocking boltwork. If it's not bolted down, then all you need to do is tip it back, let it fall forward and turn the handle just as it slams on the floor. Get the timing right and you will be in. View Quote That trick won't work on that safe. Options #2... View Quote I'd be careful posting stuff like this. Wouldn't want to give the wrong people any ideas. |
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