I have an older house with a foundation floor poured in sections and the usual peaks and valleys in the floor.  I am told that there are floor levelling products available to level out the surface that bond better to concrete than laying concreate over the existing concrete surface.  Can anyone recommend a product that they have used previously?  I need a product that bonds well to concrete, lays on fairly easy, and can be drilled through to mount lags.  Any help would be most appreciated.

This stuff HERE seems to be what you are looking for....

hydraulic cement will self level and is a bit cheaper for a 10lb bucket.

Why don't you go ahead and pour a raised concrete platform the height of a 2x4 or 2x6.  That way it solves your leveling problem, and makes accessibility easier as well.

I was going to suggest this, as it is what I did, but........

I don't know......

Plasitc shims.... raise it up the 1/8 to 1/4 max it likely needs and drill into the existing concrete.  The shims won't compress and the level of skill required is about as much as coloring in the lines.  It will take 10 minutes and 2$.  If you don't get it right the first time... move the shims in and out.  

The keep it simple method applies here, IMHO.

This. Leveling out a concrete floor isn't just pour new crap on top of old crap. Putting concrete on top of concrete doesn't work.

To properly level out a floor with a "self level" Product, the floor needs to be bead blasted to open up the pores and then primed with the proper latex primer for whatever brand products you are using. Then mix the stuff and pour it out.  Work it with a rake to make it flow evenly into the corners etc them 4hrs later (or longer depending on brand) you have a new level floor that will last and if you did it right it will be pretty dang level

Now a small area a bag of feather finish or floor patching compound might be all you need, using this type of product it's best to mix in small amounts directly on the floor. Pour out a dry pile, put water in it like your putting gravy on mashed potatoes and mix it with 6" wide putty knife. Work quick since it's a rapid dry product.

I would be worried that adding shims would give any thieves a place to jam a pry bar which they could use to pop the anchors.

Use cedar shingles to shim the bottom of the safe.  This gets the safe off of the floor a few millimeters which enables air to circulate under the safe and deters moisture and rust.  Also, the shingles are wide and long which make the safe very stable when installed.