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Posted: 7/11/2015 10:43:37 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CincyBrad:
That kind of sucks they don't recognize or see the value in your participation here. Hell, quite a few people here have purchased AMSEC safes based on you answering questions here. Most people I know into who are into firearms research purchases like this. We tend to be a group that researches everything. What magazines work best, what optic will work best on this rifle, etc. I spent 5 months researching before I purchased, and most of the gun safe only manufacturers provide vague and misleading information, or no information at all on construction of their safes. It's really disappointing, and drove me away from even considering their product. A few years ago in this thread I remember you saying they shelved the 4ga liner option. Honestly, the availability of that liner upgrade, and you answering questions on this form, are the reasons I bought a BF HD. It's more or less a B rate gun safe with poured insulation, the closest competitors were Brown, Graffunder and upgraded Ft. Knox offerings that all cost significantly more (sometimes double). Considering what gun sales have been since the dear leader was elected I am sure there has been growth in the gun safe market, hopefully AMSEC at some point recognizes what you are doing here IS is big deal to many in this hobby. A legit, credible, online presence is invaluable in the gun safe industry, especially when so many companies flat out lie about their product. This is exactly true,i spent years saving and researching online forums,reading posts and asking questions.then I came across this post and your expertise.I'm not going to lie amsec was always a top contender in what I was going to buy,but there were plenty of others also.The fact that you come here and provide genuine answers and explain things was the reason I went with amsec over the other big names out there. i'm sure the rfx I ordered will be around long after I'm gone and be passed down thru generations. AMSEC would be smart to get their head in the game and realize that online research is the way everything is headed and there is a HUGE market share waiting to be swayed with a quality, knowledgeable online presence. SO back on track I do have a question I forgot to ask my dealer. will my rfx have the door storage system or was that a option? I looked over your 2015 product guides and I still cant tell.by the pictures I thought it was standard but I'm really not sure? how much room is there between the the inside door and the front of the shelves on a rfx safe with the door closed? thanks tsg pete |
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Posted: 7/11/2015 2:40:37 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By icecold1:SO back on track I do have a question I forgot to ask my dealer.
will my rfx have the door storage system or was that a option? I looked over your 2015 product guides and I still cant tell.by the pictures I thought it was standard but I'm really not sure? how much room is there between the the inside door and the front of the shelves on a rfx safe with the door closed? thanks tsg pete I appreciate the encouragement and kind words from everyone that has found value in my participation. Thanks. I learn as well, reading and researching on firearms is what brought me here, and I have gained a great deal from that content. The PDO is not standard equipment, sorry. If you download the 2015 Gunsafe Catalog, you will see there is a matrix on page 18. There is a 2-3 inch clearance between the door and the interior components. |
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Posted: 7/11/2015 3:24:24 PM EDT
[#3]
I had downloaded the flyer but dident scroll down that far as what I wanted was right at the top
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no problem with the pdo as usually things get stuffed pretty full so I don't know if it is good to have or not. I think I'm better off without it.i keep most my guns in cases,dont store ammo in the safe like in the picture. thanks for the info though pete |
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Posted: 7/11/2015 9:53:37 PM EDT
[#4]
Hey Safeguy,
I have an AMSEC safe (love it BTW) with the door organizer. I have run out of velcro-backed pistol holsters and pouches for it (ie, I store all my suppressors on the door too) but I have more real estate on the door. I can't find anywhere (not just AMSEC) that sells such things. If I call and ask nicely will AMSEC sell me a few? |
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Posted: 7/11/2015 11:03:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Conqueror:
Hey Safeguy, I have an AMSEC safe (love it BTW) with the door organizer. I have run out of velcro-backed pistol holsters and pouches for it (ie, I store all my suppressors on the door too) but I have more real estate on the door. I can't find anywhere (not just AMSEC) that sells such things. If I call and ask nicely will AMSEC sell me a few? We do sell the extra holsters. Call the sales desk. I believe they can sell them to you and commission a local dealer. Ask for P/N 1335358 "Stor-It "PDO" Additional Holsters" |
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Posted: 7/13/2015 12:08:06 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By icecold1:
I had downloaded the flyer but dident scroll down that far as what I wanted was right at the top .
no problem with the pdo as usually things get stuffed pretty full so I don't know if it is good to have or not. I think I'm better off without it.i keep most my guns in cases,dont store ammo in the safe like in the picture. thanks for the info though pete Correction, The PDO was added to the RF and RFX line as standard equipment some time after publication of this year's catalogs. |
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Posted: 7/13/2015 10:17:24 PM EDT
[#7]
Cool I would have thought the pdo came standard in a rfx as they are top of the line,cant wait to get my rfx it is going to rock. finally a real safe im going to keep my rsc as bait and hide the amsec
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/13/2015 11:17:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TexasDave]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Texas Dave... Wow, that is an extraordinary set of conditions. I suspect the Memory Chip has failed, but this has not been observed to date. This is one of the very first runs of this model, but my records indicate the first of these shipped in March 2012. Send me a PM with your personal info. We'll take care of this one. I need to get that lock back for analysis and forensics. Sir, I can't begin to repay you for your assistance here. I received a call from AMSEC today and their response exceeded my expectations. Thank you. It speaks volumes of AMSEC as a company that stands behind their products. I'll keep you posted as we work through the logistics. I can tell you that when I upgrade safes for capacity reasons, I'll be buying another AMSEC. |
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Posted: 7/14/2015 5:56:33 PM EDT
[#9]
Just like TSG to know because of this thread I purchased a BF6030HD to replace my aging and full TF5517. Let the 5 week counter start!
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Posted: 7/14/2015 7:01:20 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sao:
Just like TSG to know because of this thread I purchased a BF6030HD to replace my aging and full TF5517. Let the 5 week counter start! I think you will be very happy with your choice. Glad to be of service. |
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Posted: 7/14/2015 7:34:11 PM EDT
[#11]
Thanks again for all the info TSG!
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Posted: 7/15/2015 3:02:27 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Harley1:
Thanks again for all the info TSG! ^^ This, even if we don't actually comment, know that your input is appreciated and respected. I have recently outgrown my current safe, and will be looking to move into a bigger safe. It will definitely be an AMSEC. |
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Posted: 7/15/2015 10:22:22 PM EDT
[#13]
TSG---since you have confirmed the PDO--pocket door organizer is now standard on the rfx series,i have a question has one ever been tested in the oven when the fire resistance was tested?
I'm not sure what they are made of but they appear to be a nylon type material. if one has been subjected to the test how did it look once the safe was opened? thanks pete |
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Posted: 7/15/2015 11:07:43 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By icecold1:
TSG---since you have confirmed the PDO--pocket door organizer is now standard on the rfx series,i have a question has one ever been tested in the oven when the fire resistance was tested? I'm not sure what they are made of but they appear to be a nylon type material. if one has been subjected to the test how did it look once the safe was opened? thanks pete Sorry to say, all the testing was conducted without the PDO installed. I could only guess how that might hold up. I know the "ballistic nylon" is tough, but it does shrink a lot when it gets hot. Test probe locations near that area suggest the fabric won't melt, but I would expect some pretty significant distortion to the lay of the fabric. The wildcard is the adhesive, which breaks down in the steam exposure. I doubt it would fall off the door, but that would actually be a good thing if it did, since the temperatures at the floor of the safe are more than 100º cooler near the end of the 2-hour test period. That's all I got on that one.... without divulging some secrets... |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 7/15/2015 11:38:04 PM EDT
[#15]
TSG,
Has Amsec ever built or considered a TL-30 rated vault door similar in construction to what is on the RF/RFX safes? |
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Posted: 7/16/2015 12:14:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: a1abdj]
[#16]
Has Amsec ever built or considered a TL-30 rated vault door similar in construction to what is on the RF/RFX safes? Like those below? They certainly have their place, but I typically install Class M or 1 doors from a regular vault manufacturer. The doors in the photo are TL-15 equivalent, but not rated. 
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Posted: 7/16/2015 12:17:14 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SknFlt:
TSG, Has Amsec ever built or considered a TL-30 rated vault door similar in construction to what is on the RF/RFX safes? We make custom Vault Doors of any rating, any size, any wall thickness, every day. They are all made to order, so they don't appear in the catalogs. One of the most popular models in a composite TL-30 door. You will need to contact a dealer and get a quote. |
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Posted: 7/16/2015 6:19:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#18]
Posted from another thread, copied here for followers. Discussion on Stepped Door Safes.
The old "Stepped Door" designs had a purpose in the old days of cowboys and into the early 20th century.
These safes were hand crafted to fit together very tightly, with very close tolerance door gaps. Door and Body frames are constructed from layer upon layer of tightly fitted steel plates, usually constructed from a really badass metal known as Mangalloy, or Hadfield Steel after the inventor. Mangalloy is a highly Manganese enriched carbon steel (13-15%) that presented one of the hardest metals known at the time (mid-1800's). This steel is highly abrasion resistant, and when you try to bend or impose high impact, it work-hardens to extraordinary levels.It was developed for use in earth moving equipment and other abusive environments. These unique properties made it highly desirable to make high security safes that were Dynamite and Nitro-Glycerine blast resistant boxes. The close tolerance door layer fitting prevented an adequate volume of nitro-glycerine from collecting in the door closure gaps to minimize the blast effectiveness. For liquid explosives to work best, they needed to be injected into the door gaps. If the gaps were very tight, very little nitro could be placed in that zone. This, coupled with the extraordinary metallurgical properties of Mangalloy was about as good as it could get. This technique later gave way to the easier-to-manufacture Round Door Safes (one example is the "Cannon Ball") and big walk-thru Bank Vault Doors, where a turned machined surface was much easier to provide the ultra tight fit necessary to provide nitro joint infusion resistance. This is why you see the older mammoth vault doors were made to be round, not square. The old Cannon Ball safes were a monolithic one-piece cast ball of Mangalloy, usually placed on a pedestal, and fitted with a round door. These things were nearly impossible to open until modern high speed power drills and carbide drill bits came along. Today, high-tech plastic and nitro explosives are so closely controlled that there is little concern for them being used any more by thieves. The explosion resistant UL TXTL safe ratings are all but forgotten in the market today, and I don't think anyone has a current active TXTL listing any more. When explosives are (very rarely) used today, there is a different approach that is far more effective, and very dangerous to use. AMSEC used Mangalloy, trade name Manganal, in TL-30 doors into the late 80's. Alas, the cost became prohibitive and thicker AR400 and AR500 plates served as well in the UL test labs, so Manganal was abandoned going into the newly implemented 1994 retest cycle and doesn't appear any more in safes today. AMSEC was founded on the Round Door safe in 1945 by Gene Halls under the name Star Safe and Alarm, and his designs are largely still produced today as the Star Lift-Out Door. AMSEC TL15 and TL30 Round Doors were produced until the UL retest program forced us to limit the number of safe listings due to the extraordinary cost of testing. So, now you know how the stepped door came to be, and where it lead in safe evolution. |
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Posted: 7/16/2015 7:13:16 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Posted from another thread, copied here for followers. Discussion on Stepped Door Safes. The old "Stepped Door" designs had a purpose in the old days of cowboys and into the early 20th century. These safes were hand crafted to fit together very tightly, with very close tolerance gaps. Door and Body frames are constructed from layer upon layer of tightly hand fitted steel, usually constructed from a really badass metal known as Mangalloy or Hadfield Steel. Mangalloy is a highly Manganese enriched carbon steel (13-15%) that presented one of the hardest metals known at the time (mid-1800's). This steel is highly abrasion resistant, and when you try to bend or impose high impact, it work-hardens to extraordinary levels. These unique properties made it highly desirable to make high security safes that were Dynamite and Nitro-Glycerine blast resistant boxes. The close tolerance door layer fitting prevented adequate volume of nitro-glycerine from collecting in the door closure area to minimize the blast effectiveness. For liquid explosives to work best, they needed to be injected into the door gaps. If the gaps were very tight, very little nitro could be placed in that zone. This, coupled with the extraordinary metallurgical properties of Mangalloy was about as good as it could get. This technique later gave way to the easier-to-manufacture Round Door Safes (one example is the "Cannon Ball") and Vault Doors, where a turned machined surface was much easier to provide the ultra tight fit necessary to provide nitro joint infusion resistance. This is why you see the older mammoth vault doors were made to be round, not square. Today, high-tech plastic and nitro explosives are so closely controlled that there is little concern for them being used any more by thieves. The explosion resistant UL TXTL safe ratings are all but forgotten in the market today, and I don't think anyone has a current active TXTL listing any more. When explosives are (very rarely) used today, there is a different approach that is far more effective, and very dangerous to use. AMSEC used Mangalloy, trade name Manganal, in TL-30 doors into the late 80's. Alas, the cost became prohibitive and thicker AR400 and AR500 plates served as well in the UL test labs, so Manganal was abandoned going into the newly implemented 1994 retest cycle and doesn't appear any more in safes today. So, now you know how the stepped door came to be, and where it lead in safe evolution. Thank you for posting, fascinating stuff  .
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Posted: 8/13/2015 4:46:00 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SknFlt:
TSG, Has Amsec ever built or considered a TL-30 rated vault door similar in construction to what is on the RF/RFX safes? We make custom Safes and Vault Doors every day, that is our core business. Custom-made TL-30 construction Vault Door (model designation RF for our gunsafe market segment) are pretty common in our regular production. The door of an RFX is the same as an RF (referred to as our AMVault TL-30 CF and TL-30X6 CFX line in the commercial marketplace) . The difference between and RF and and RFX is all about the safe Body, not the Door. |
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Posted: 8/17/2015 8:26:16 AM EDT
[#21]
TSG,
Any uptick in small or TL safe sales? Yet? I ask because Europe seems to be ahead of us in the economic cycle: The most valuable paper currency is the Swiss 1000 franc note. The Swiss are withdrawing money from banks and storing it at home. Sales of safes have skyrocketed and the demand for 1000 franc note has taken off amazingly. One in ten notes now printed by Switzerland in a 1000 franc note. With banks losing trust and interest rates negative, the demand for the 1000 franc note has doubled since 2007. In fact, as of May 2015, 41.6 billion Swiss francs are now in circulation in 1000 CHF notes. Looking forward to a safe future. 
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Posted: 8/29/2015 11:53:34 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Plattekill:
TSG, Any uptick in small or TL safe sales? Yet? I ask because Europe seems to be ahead of us in the economic cycle: . Martin Armstrong blog. Looking forward to a safe future. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Plattekill:
TSG, Any uptick in small or TL safe sales? Yet? I ask because Europe seems to be ahead of us in the economic cycle: The most valuable paper currency is the Swiss 1000 franc note. The Swiss are withdrawing money from banks and storing it at home. Sales of safes have skyrocketed and the demand for 1000 franc note has taken off amazingly. One in ten notes now printed by Switzerland in a 1000 franc note. With banks losing trust and interest rates negative, the demand for the 1000 franc note has doubled since 2007. In fact, as of May 2015, 41.6 billion Swiss francs are now in circulation in 1000 CHF notes. Looking forward to a safe future. Bump back to main page and possible answer to inquiry. I often thought a small TL-30 or TL-30 X6 about 2, 3, or 4 cubic feet would be perfect for pistols, NFA, etc., bolt it down, encase in concrete, disguise if possible, nice and secure. |
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Posted: 8/29/2015 2:15:08 PM EDT
[#23]
TSG,
Do you recommend putting something under the safe in a house instead of directly on the carpet? The installer said he had seen safes rust on the bottom and get stuck to the carpet. This is in Texas where we have near 100% humidity. I thought of putting a slim piece of plywood or rubber mat under the safe so its not directly on the carpet. This will be bolted down. Weight empty will be around 2200lbs. Thanks |
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Posted: 8/29/2015 4:32:44 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Retzam:
TSG, Do you recommend putting something under the safe in a house instead of directly on the carpet? The installer said he had seen safes rust on the bottom and get stuck to the carpet. This is in Texas where we have near 100% humidity. I thought of putting a slim piece of plywood or rubber mat under the safe so its not directly on the carpet. This will be bolted down. Weight empty will be around 2200lbs. Thanks I'm curious too, but mine will go on concrete in the garage. |
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Posted: 8/29/2015 5:18:55 PM EDT
[#25]
Yes I do recommend placing a safe on some barrier to prevent corrosion and carpet staining. No matter how good a paint job might be, sitting on damp carpet is like sitting in a pool of water. Eventually that will start corrosion. I don't think that any safe maker goes to extremes to place a good paint covering on the bottom of the safe, and in some cases there is little more than a light primer coat. Using some kind of moisture barrier is highly recommended. Wood, Plexiglas, plastic sheeting, elevated with hokey pucks or any similar method is effective.
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Posted: 8/29/2015 10:46:12 PM EDT
[#26]
So the Rfx safe I ordered in July was delivered yesterday,this thing is awesome and did arrive as tsg stated with the door pocket organizer standard.i ordered it with the led light kit and although a little spendy it works great.
Now the only issue I have is amsec shorted me the top shelf clips and I couldn't find any at menards. Other than that I couldn't be happier this is a tl30x6 Real safe and it feels like opening a bank vault,I can now go on vacations and not worry some scumbag will pry open my rsc and sell my guns for crack or shoot someone. If you are on the fence the Rfx safe line is like having a bank vault in your home,I'd recommend it to anyone. Pete |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 8/30/2015 8:02:54 AM EDT
[#27]
Call the dealer or AMSEC, I am sure they will send you more clips for the shelves.
RFX is beast, you got one of the best you can buy right now. Oh, and pics? 
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Posted: 8/30/2015 9:46:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: icecold1]
[#28]
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Posted: 8/31/2015 2:50:25 AM EDT
[#29]
Wow! Is that Pearl?
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Posted: 8/31/2015 6:04:09 PM EDT
[#30]
it is sandstone,and i really like it,called amsec today and they said i should have the clips by Friday.great customer service and a great product.not sure how i feel about the door pdo yet but it could be cool for some light items.so far im just in awe of how big and heavy duty it is.
makes my rsc seem like the toy it really is.
pete |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 9/2/2015 5:19:21 PM EDT
[#31]
Hi TSG,
I had a question about the value of adding external coatings to a safe. Would the addition of a very thick (maybe 4x) layer of a product like Line-X add any security or heat resistive value in addition to acing as a very tough surface finish. I realize that its not a miracle substance but could imagine it may have some insulating properties against radiant heat, and maybe gum up the teeth on a metal cutting blade a little bit. Are there any negatives to adding such a coating Thanks |
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Posted: 9/2/2015 10:22:24 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guggep:
Hi TSG, I had a question about the value of adding external coatings to a safe. Would the addition of a very thick (maybe 4x) layer of a product like Line-X add any security or heat resistive value in addition to acing as a very tough surface finish. I realize that its not a miracle substance but could imagine it may have some insulating properties against radiant heat, and maybe gum up the teeth on a metal cutting blade a little bit. Are there any negatives to adding such a coating Thanks Products like Line-X are a spray on polyurethane foam. Polyurethane is an organic compound, and it is flammable. So, based on the published properties, I think you are adding to the fire, not guarding from it. |
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NM, USA
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Posted: 9/3/2015 11:57:28 PM EDT
[#33]
I haven't seen very many questions on the NF series. I've been looking at the BF6636 and the NF6036. I know the BF is thicker and has better fire protection but it's also about $1.5k more than the NF at my local dealer. Anyone else been cross shopping those two models/series?
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MD, USA
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Posted: 9/5/2015 6:10:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jkeys]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guggep:
Hi TSG, I had a question about the value of adding external coatings to a safe. Would the addition of a very thick (maybe 4x) layer of a product like Line-X add any security or heat resistive value in addition to acing as a very tough surface finish. I realize that its not a miracle substance but could imagine it may have some insulating properties against radiant heat, and maybe gum up the teeth on a metal cutting blade a little bit. Are there any negatives to adding such a coating Thanks What you really want to add is called intumescent epoxy. A quart would be enough to cover an average sized safe and is about $40 depending on the brand. You can put a .005" (yes, five thousandths) thick layer on piece of cardboard and then hit it with a torch. You will not be able to light the cardboard on fire. The.005" thick layer of epoxy expands when heated to a 1" thick porous insulating carbon foam and protects the cardboard completely. The brand I am familiar with and have personally tested is called Ceasefire, but there are many other intumescent epoxy brands out there. A thick coating (.03"+)would provide plenty of abrassion resistance and gum up on the cutting blades as it starts to heat and soften before exanding. It would also 100% prevent damage from a torch attack unless the thief has time to torch, scrape away the foam, and repeat multiple times until all of the epoxy has been expanded and removed. |
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Posted: 9/11/2015 6:02:14 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By borracho536:
I haven't seen very many questions on the NF series. I've been looking at the BF6636 and the NF6036. I know the BF is thicker and has better fire protection but it's also about $1.5k more than the NF at my local dealer. Anyone else been cross shopping those two models/series? The NF Series safes are lined with Type X Drywall (Gypsum Board). This is a stark contrast to the BF's poured fill and construction. However, the NF is a real certified fire rated safe that went 90 minutes in the ETL furnace. This is not your "typical" drywall lined safe. It took several tests at ETL to refine the construction details to make it go a full 90 minutes (actually 93 minutes before it hit 350ºF). Without throwing any stones at any one competitor's safe, I'm pretty sure that the NF is the ONLY drywall lined safe in the industry that will actually go 90 minutes or more under the ETL 1200º Gunsafe test we initiated. Everyone else is either guessing based on the number of layers of drywall, or they did some inadequate "imitation" fire testing (not meeting the published conditions). I know for a fact that some manufacturers with MORE drywall failed well before 90 minutes, yet claim as much as 2 hours. It's not just about how thick the drywall is in the safe, there are many other factors that contribute to a good fire resistant design. |
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MA, USA
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Posted: 9/13/2015 11:01:09 AM EDT
[#36]
I figured I'd post here before starting a new thread, so I'm just taking a shot. Is there a way to purchase a new interior or new interior parts for a BF6030? Mine is a 2010, set up for 4 rifles I believe. I'm looking to get the same interior the new 6030's have. I may just end up making my own set up. Full Disclosure: I called Amsec and they said they don't sell directly. I called the local dealer I'm familiar with and..... they no longer are a dealer for Amsec... Not that they could have ordered interior pieces for me anyway, but figured that was the logical step to check with my local dealer.
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Posted: 9/13/2015 11:16:35 AM EDT
[#37]
I have purchased interior components (additional shelves, etc.) from AMSEC dealers without issue. If you can't find someone local who will sell it to you, try Able Ammo in Huntsville, TX. I'm sure they can ship it anywhere (or have it drop shipped from the factory).
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MA, USA
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Posted: 9/13/2015 2:29:33 PM EDT
[#38]
Alright, thanks a bunch for the info. I would have rather used the dealer, but since they don't deal in Amsec anymore they said they couldn't. Just wanted to find out if it's something that was even possible before I chase down another dealer.
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Posted: 9/19/2015 4:21:24 PM EDT
[#39]
tsg,love the rfx safe I purchased.
But the light kit placement is not really optimal. If you look at the picture above you can see the lights are placed on each side and stop well short of the top of the safe.while this might work well for some applications I don't really think a gun safe is one of them. I ordered up some more 12v led strip from e-bay and am going to extend the strips over the top of the safe especially along the front.i understand that the back strip will likely get blocked by most anything in the safe but the front one should be moved further to the front so a regular length pistol case is behind it.as once I filled the cubbies with cases there was little to no light left. I will post some pics of the finished product in a couple weeks when my led strip shows up from across the pond. sorry ab1 my local dealer had no led light strip so I had to use the internet to find some.
pete |
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Posted: 9/19/2015 7:33:32 PM EDT
[#40]
ordered up the led tape light but since i was stopping by the office today i decided to see if i could relocate the 2 front strips to a better location,carefully pulled them off and moved then to their new location approx 1" back behind the locking lugs recess area.
this made a world of differnce now that the lights are in front of the racks,now when the new strips show up i'm going to cut 2 pieces and splice them on to the exsisting strips and do a full wrap of the top this should then be lit up enough to easly see what i'm looking for,weather it be a thumb drive or a 45 acp. i'll post a pic once i get it done pete |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/1/2015 4:59:09 PM EDT
[#41]
TSG:
JKeys raises an interesting point! It seems like painting your safes with an intumescent coating could potentially slow heat transfer into the safe quite a bit. Seems like it might be a fair insulation boost, with no real weight or space drawbacks. I imagine you all have been down this road and discarded the idea already, but I would be curious to know what the downside is? Appearance? Durability? Maybe the coating thickness? Thanks! And thanks again for all your time and effort answering questions and keeping up with this thread! |
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Posted: 10/1/2015 7:35:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Nick_Adams314:
TSG: JKeys raises an interesting point! It seems like painting your safes with an intumescent coating could potentially slow heat transfer into the safe quite a bit. Seems like it might be a fair insulation boost, with no real weight or space drawbacks. I imagine you all have been down this road and discarded the idea already, but I would be curious to know what the downside is? Appearance? Durability? Maybe the coating thickness? Yes, we looked at this stuff a long time ago. It's pretty expensive to put on with adequate thickness (several coats), but worse yet, it looks like an old moss covered tree when you put it on a flat surface. Laying on smooth even coats without any variation would be very difficult. It's not intended to look nice, and it doesn't. Doing a nice finish would be impossible after the coating is applied. We dismissed it mostly because the aesthetics are very high in the list of things people consider in the buying process. And, again, it's a passive insulator once it expands. Unless the coating expands to a few inches thick, or the fire exposure is very short, the value is minimal. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/1/2015 10:02:02 PM EDT
[#43]
Thanks TSG! Definitely makes sense...
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MD, USA
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Posted: 10/2/2015 9:21:46 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Yes, we looked at this stuff a long time ago. It's pretty expensive to put on with adequate thickness (several coats), but worse yet, it looks like an old moss covered tree when you put it on a flat surface. Laying on smooth even coats without any variation would be very difficult. It's not intended to look nice, and it doesn't. Doing a nice finish would be impossible after the coating is applied. We dismissed it mostly because the aesthetics are very high in the list of things people consider in the buying process. And, again, it's a passive insulator once it expands. Unless the coating expands to a few inches thick, or the fire exposure is very short, the value is minimal. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Originally Posted By Nick_Adams314:
TSG: JKeys raises an interesting point! It seems like painting your safes with an intumescent coating could potentially slow heat transfer into the safe quite a bit. Seems like it might be a fair insulation boost, with no real weight or space drawbacks. I imagine you all have been down this road and discarded the idea already, but I would be curious to know what the downside is? Appearance? Durability? Maybe the coating thickness? Yes, we looked at this stuff a long time ago. It's pretty expensive to put on with adequate thickness (several coats), but worse yet, it looks like an old moss covered tree when you put it on a flat surface. Laying on smooth even coats without any variation would be very difficult. It's not intended to look nice, and it doesn't. Doing a nice finish would be impossible after the coating is applied. We dismissed it mostly because the aesthetics are very high in the list of things people consider in the buying process. And, again, it's a passive insulator once it expands. Unless the coating expands to a few inches thick, or the fire exposure is very short, the value is minimal. FYI, the stuff I use at work is a nice clean white epoxy that goes on easily and self levels. Getting an aesthetically pleasing surface is easy. We put a ~.01" thick coating on using a brush and get a smooth glossy finish. And when fully expanded the char is ~1/2" thick, so ~50x expansion factor. It may be worth revisiting. The vendor we buy from was more than happy to send us free sample quarts to test when we were shopping around. I can put you in contact if you are interested. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 10/14/2015 2:49:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: RaggedEdge]
[#45]
The company I work with bought an old grocery store to move a store to and this behemoth is sitting there. We already have a safe and this looks like it needs some work to get it right. The non hinge side, top and bottom locking bolts are missing. Looks like the plate is still inside the door. I can get it for the price of scrap so it'd be a nice piece to use. Anything else I would need to look for? Thanks https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/101331195@N03/22181235491/sizes/m/ |
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Posted: 10/14/2015 3:27:56 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RaggedEdge:
The company I work with bought an old grocery store to move a store to and this behemoth is sitting there. We already have a safe and this looks like it needs some work to get it right. The non hinge side, top and bottom locking bolts are missing. Looks like the plate is still inside the door. I can get it for the price of scrap so it'd be a nice piece to use. Anything else I would need to look for? Thanks https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/101331195@N03/22181235491/sizes/m/ Your pictures don't work because you linked the webpage as an email address, when I think you wanted to link the embed the image file as an image, so I've corrected it to what I think you wanted. . maybe? |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 10/14/2015 5:12:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CincyBrad]
[#47]
Have the locking mechanism checked, the four lines on the door frame that match up to the bolts would concern me, especially since they are missing. Looks like the door was dragged against the frame with the bolts extended
 Also see if it's been drilled, if it has, the TL certification is no linger valid, I believe.
Would prolly be worth it to have a safe tech go over it and see if it's worth it. The cost of moving it ain't going to be cheap, plus any repairs. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 10/14/2015 6:03:27 PM EDT
[#48]
I opened the panel. Looks like all the pieces are thereabouts unmolested for the most part. Have anyone east of Cleveland you can recommend? |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 10/14/2015 6:05:12 PM EDT
[#49]
Lol yes thanks. Doing this from my phone so a bit trickier. I'll try to see if I can correct the newest ones.
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Posted: 10/14/2015 7:33:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: a1abdj]
[#50]
Retail employees abuse the heck out of their equipment, and the photos show that your safe has not been treated as gentle as it should have been. This also likely means that it hasn't been maintained. I would have a pro look at is, and would strongly suggest replacing the lock. Between a check up and a new lock, it should work good as new.
If you decide to save some money and not go that route, make sure you keep $800 to $1,500 in an emergency fund, because that's what it will cost to open if it fails. Go to savta.org, click on "find a safe tech", and enter your zip code. It will pull up people in your area. And if you want to talk them into a really good deal, make sure you tell them that the safe has no scrap value. That's a composite safe. It's "concrete", not steel. The outer shell is steel, but a scrap metal company won't deal with it. |
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