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Posted: 2/8/2023 6:11:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bruh44]
[#1]
Ok, thank you again! I’ll have to send you some pictures when I get this thing finished.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 3/5/2023 6:12:41 PM EDT
[#2]
Can I just buy a new ESL5 off eBay and easily replace the old one? Long story but I bought this safe used and it eats a 9v batter in about an hour. I was lucky to get it opened. I contacted AMSEC and they told me to check with a local dealer. Who quoted me about $700 for a service call and refused to sell the lock without installing it.
  
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DEU
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Posted: 3/5/2023 6:57:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MartinHewitt]
[#3]
Yes, you can install any ESL5. There is only one type of it. It is not that difficult if you can wield a screw driver. mbsusa.com has it for $144 for non-commercial users.
And as always: Before closing the door (even without locking) test it at least three times that the locking and unlocking procedure works. Also do not close the door without lock unless you took precautions and have checked that the lock bolts can be retracted. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 3/7/2023 2:32:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Arms4wolf]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MartinHewitt: Yes, you can install any ESL5. There is only one type of it. It is not that difficult if you can wield a screw driver. mbsusa.com has it for $144 for non-commercial users. And as always: Before closing the door (even without locking) test it at least three times that the locking and unlocking procedure works. Also do not close the door without lock unless you took precautions and have checked that the lock bolts can be retracted. Ok sounds like good advice! Thanks much! https://mbausa.com/amsec-esl5-swing-bolt-lock-w-chrome-keypad/ |
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Posted: 3/12/2023 2:04:54 PM EDT
[#5]
One last question about my build. The metal is just 1/4” steel. I’m doing a floor plate too just to help support the weight of it all. Should I put a piece of linoleum between the cement slab and the metal? Something else maybe?
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CA, USA
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Posted: 3/13/2023 1:17:20 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bruh44: One last question about my build. The metal is just 1/4” steel. I’m doing a floor plate too just to help support the weight of it all. Should I put a piece of linoleum between the cement slab and the metal? Something else maybe? You want a small air gap if possible. If there is ever flooding or a big water spill, that steel on the floor will rust out. |
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Posted: 3/13/2023 3:32:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bruh44]
[#7]
Would a piece Linoleum the same size as the bottom of the safe cover that? The slab under it isn’t perfectly level so that might help.
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Posted: 3/19/2023 1:01:44 PM EDT
[#8]
Would I be better off using small pieces of wood for larger air spaces?
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DEU
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Posted: 3/19/2023 2:14:20 PM EDT
[#9]
A safe tech recommended to me a sheet of "phenolic resin coated plywood".
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Posted: 3/22/2023 11:01:55 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MartinHewitt: A safe tech recommended to me a sheet of "phenolic resin coated plywood". That might be an option. The only reason I’d prefer something else is, I can’t find that thinner than 1/2”. My space is limited. I’d like to keep as much space as possible. TheSafeGuy, any recommendations? |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 3/23/2023 2:24:57 PM EDT
[#11]
I’ve seen many solutions for things to put under safes.
I put 1/4 plywood under mine. I’m on a hardwood floor and the chances of flooding are very slim. Other solutions are rubber mats, you can get these at Tractor Supply type stores. They are often used in horse stalls etc. Those that want a raised setup with an airspace put their safe on hockey pucks. You can drill through the puck where you bolt it down. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 3/23/2023 8:04:00 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MartinHewitt: Yes, you can install any ESL5. There is only one type of it. It is not that difficult if you can wield a screw driver. mbsusa.com has it for $144 for non-commercial users. And as always: Before closing the door (even without locking) test it at least three times that the locking and unlocking procedure works. Also do not close the door without lock unless you took precautions and have checked that the lock bolts can be retracted. Ok so can i just plug in the new keypad and leave the existing mechanism? Then what is the process to program the new keypad? I've Googled it and didn't see much. |
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DEU
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Posted: 3/24/2023 3:20:21 PM EDT
[#13]
You could do that, but unless you are 100% that the keypad is the problem and not the internal lock body I would not do that.
The code is in the lock body, so if you replace only the keypad the code stays the same. There is a 5-page instruction manual explaining how to change the code. With a new lock body the code is 1 2 3 4 5 6 as written in the manual. |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 3/26/2023 11:07:41 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Arms4wolf: Ok so can i just plug in the new keypad and leave the existing mechanism? Then what is the process to program the new keypad? I've Googled it and didn't see much. AMSEC had a bad chip issue with a number of ESL5's (micro-controller i think?). Failed at high rate and would begin to eat batteries as they got older eventually locking out the user. The bad models used a 5V controller and they have since moved to a 3.3V The Keypads are NOT compatible don't interchange them. The serial number shown on your backplate if for the older 5V model (the bad one) |
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Posted: 3/26/2023 11:57:21 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tyromeo55: AMSEC had a bad chip issue with a number of ESL5's (micro-controller i think?). Failed at high rate and would begin to eat batteries as they got older eventually locking out the user. The bad models used a 5V controller and they have since moved to a 3.3V The Keypads are NOT compatible don't interchange them. The serial number shown on your backplate if for the older 5V model (the bad one) Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tyromeo55: Originally Posted By Arms4wolf: Ok so can i just plug in the new keypad and leave the existing mechanism? Then what is the process to program the new keypad? I've Googled it and didn't see much. AMSEC had a bad chip issue with a number of ESL5's (micro-controller i think?). Failed at high rate and would begin to eat batteries as they got older eventually locking out the user. The bad models used a 5V controller and they have since moved to a 3.3V The Keypads are NOT compatible don't interchange them. The serial number shown on your backplate if for the older 5V model (the bad one) |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 3/26/2023 2:09:03 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mitsuman47: @tyromeo55 Is there a serial # range for the bad ones? If you go thru TSGs old posts you'll find where he mentions an exact range of affected sn's along with the issue and how it was discovered. Below is a link where compatibility is discussed. No mention of the issue only that they had to source a new microcontroller. It describes how to tell the difference from 5V and 3.3V models. https://www.lockmasters.com/images/uploaded/ESL5-Info-Sheet.pdf |
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Posted: 4/11/2023 9:58:19 AM EDT
[#17]
I came up with 1/4” aluminum strips to use as the pacer between the steel floor and the cement slab. Seems like that would be perfect for it.
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Posted: 4/11/2023 4:38:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: garr]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bruh44: I came up with 1/4” aluminum strips to use as the pacer between the steel floor and the cement slab. Seems like that would be perfect for it. You may get dissimilar metal corrosion (also called Galvanic or intergranular corrosion) by using aluminum strips, i would cover the aluminum with a strip of heavy duty electrical tape or maybe use a bicycle inner tube to separate the Steel & Aluminum. |
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Posted: 4/11/2023 9:42:25 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By garr: You may get dissimilar metal corrosion (also called Galvanic or intergranular corrosion) by using aluminum strips, i would cover the aluminum with a strip of heavy duty electrical tape or maybe use a bicycle inner tube to separate the Steel & Aluminum. I’ve never heard of that. Glad I posted that here. Thank you for the heads up. I’ll look into that and cover the aluminum. |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 4/24/2023 8:53:37 AM EDT
[#20]
I have an AmSec EST916 safe.
Does it have a fire rating? I can't see one in any literature or specs, or in the catalog. My daughter would get one if it has a fire rating, but I can't answer her question. Thanks! |
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DEU
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Posted: 4/24/2023 1:22:18 PM EDT
[#21]
If there is nowhere a fire rating specified then it doesn't have one.
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MD, USA
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Posted: 4/24/2023 4:54:06 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MartinHewitt: If there is nowhere a fire rating specified then it doesn't have one. Thanks! As I feared. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 9/8/2023 9:04:53 AM EDT
[#23]
Does Amsec maintain a list of master/backup codes for the ESL locks on the safes that it sells similar to what Liberty safe does?
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DEU
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Posted: 9/8/2023 9:39:05 AM EDT
[Last Edit: MartinHewitt]
[#24]
Yes. Every ESL lock has a master code. I can't find it in the instruction sheet, but I played with it and AFAIR it is mentioned here in this thread. You should assume that every safe manufacturer in the US does this.
The master code is entered just like any code and will reset the user code to 123456. So you will notice it, when somebody used it. |
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Posted: 9/8/2023 10:02:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: AggiePhil]
[#25]
Not a concern of mine since they would only release it with a warrant. And, with a warrant, law enforcement will get into the safe one way or another. So it’s either destroy the safe or just open it up. Both can be arranged. Much ado about nothing story, IMO.
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Posted: 9/8/2023 10:27:37 PM EDT
[#26]
why not just be safe and shit can the electric lock and go with a dial. tried and true they seem to have way less issues
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Posted: 9/8/2023 10:33:41 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By icecold1: why not just be safe and shit can the electric lock and go with a dial. tried and true they seem to have way less issues I’m not sure it’s quite that easy. @TheSafeGuy, how hard is it to swap an AMSEC dial lock for the factory digital? |
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USA
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Posted: 9/9/2023 4:40:55 AM EDT
[#28]
And to add to the question… what lock set would you suggest someone wanting to DIY a conversion to a mechanical lock?
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Posted: 9/9/2023 10:05:17 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AggiePhil: Not a concern of mine since they would only release it with a warrant. And, with a warrant, law enforcement will get into the safe one way or another. So it’s either destroy the safe or just open it up. Both can be arranged. Much ado about nothing story, IMO. I think most people who post in this particular forum already knew that many if not most manufacturers could pull master codes. |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 9/9/2023 4:34:20 PM EDT
[#30]
Yes / kinda
They have to reference the serial number either on the safe or on the keypad mounting plate. Remove the serial numbers and their list does not come into play. Other then that I guess if they had a warranty card or claim associated with you somewhere in the files You might want to know that there are industry tools that bypass most e locks. Tools to bypass mechanical locks. Nothing is 100% a warrant might as well be a master key. When a judge signs the order they are getting in one way or another |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 9/9/2023 6:49:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AggiePhil: I’m not sure it’s quite that easy. @TheSafeGuy, how hard is it to swap an AMSEC dial lock for the factory digital? The e-lock and any conventional 3-wheel mechanical lock will swap out without any issues. It's not a recommended job for a novice DIY-er, but it's not really a hard thing to do. There are a few "special" steps in installing a mechanical lock that the average guy won't know... call a good locksmith, always the safe bet, and benifit from some warranty support for the trouble. BTW, not all factories keep buypass/override codes. And, any registered/authenticated Locksmith has access to those service codes too, not just LEO with a warrant. |
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Posted: 9/9/2023 8:39:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: vellnueve]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tyromeo55: Yes / kinda They have to reference the serial number either on the safe or on the keypad mounting plate. Remove the serial numbers and their list does not come into play. Other then that I guess if they had a warranty card or claim associated with you somewhere in the files You might want to know that there are industry tools that bypass most e locks. Tools to bypass mechanical locks. Nothing is 100% a warrant might as well be a master key. When a judge signs the order they are getting in one way or another Yeah I’m just saying that I think the whole thing is overblown. I bought a Liberty Presidential recently from one of their dealers because I got a good price and it was on the floor ready for delivery. Comparing it with my FKs I prefer the FKs, but it’s a perfectly good RSC from what I can tell. I think a lot of the angst about the issue is way overblown. It would never get to a subpoena because they’d call a locksmith or force entry. Next one will probably be a FK or Amsec but that’s more based on personal preference. |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2023 9:09:02 PM EDT
[#33]
Hi TheSafeGuy,
Was looking between the CSC1913 or the BFS1512E1 for a new home safe purchase. Something that's bothering me about the CSC is the factory fire rating - The wording on the Amsec site is somewhat unclear. Can you provide any insight on what the factory fire rating actually means? It says "2-Hr. 350°F fire protection. Tested at temperatures up to 1700°F." - does that mean that the oven was continuously at 1700F after the initial ramp-up? Does Amsec do any testing of their own after they receive the safes from the manufacturer, or is it only checked by the factory themselves? Since the BFS is "ETL verified fire protection of 1700° F for 60 minutes", basically wondering if the CSC actually provides more fire protection given that it seems to claim 2 hours at 1700F. Also why it hasn't been tested by ETL for their stamp of approval. Thanks! |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 10/8/2023 3:19:19 PM EDT
[#34]
I would assume that the csc series would provide greater fire protection based on what tsg has stated about the materials in the past. However it would inspire more confidence if amsec would have the csc series fire tested by either ul or intertek.
My question for anyone with knowledge or @the safe guy is regarding the the fire proof fill material in the BF series and the BFS series safes. Do both of these models use the same formula of dry light? And does this material provide any burglary resistance? It’s confusing because numerous safe sales websites including amsec’s own website describe the fill in the bf safes as being a “proprietary fire and burglary resistant material” but in the bfs series it only sais “unique fire resistant barrier”. Am I making that much of a burglar resistant downgrade by buying the lower priced imported bfs safe? In particular I’m interested in the amsec bfs 912 based on its smaller size and weight being easier to relocate. Atleast until I’m in a more permanent location and can have a heavier safe model put in place for good. Any insight on meaningful differences between bf and bfs safes would be greatly appreciated! |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 10/18/2023 10:02:02 AM EDT
[#35]
Does anyone in the safe industry or @thesafeguy know if there are any legitimate plans to bring to market more safe models/sizes sporting the newer RSC level 2 burglary rating??
Also is it true that amsec is discontinuing the “max” line of smaller tl-15 safes? In particular the mini max? That would be a shame since it’s one of the lightest and most compact of the tl-15 options. I just want to say that I’ve learned quite a bit over the past few months in general about safes and the different features, build quality, and security ratings thanks to the guys here. I can attribute quite a bit of my new insight to the incredible amount of straightforward information that’s contained within the pages of this post. So thanks everyone for the great conversations and the knowledge that’s been shared on this forum! It is a true wealth of useful information especially when navigating all the advertising fluff and selling points when looking to invest in the best safe for a particular need. I’ve discovered that something in my brain finds the engineering and materials that go into different safes to be fascinating! Like the ultimate adult access denial puzzle. Tbh I’ve probably spent a little too much time nerding out researching these things 🥵  I know that the right safe for a particular person is whatever makes them feel secure and at ease. But I can’t help but wish that there was more of a selection available that fills the considerable gap between the RSC 1 rating and the TL 15 level. I just hope we don’t have to wait until 2025 to see if any manufacturers are planning to submit for UL testing and release a selection of home safes with an RSC level 2 rating. I mean come on the BF2 gun safe can’t be the only one… Especially for those out there looking for a more secure option that will fit in a closet or even a cabinet without having the price tag and weight that comes with a tl-15. |
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SAU
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Posted: 1/7/2024 1:23:31 AM EDT
[Last Edit: truedef]
[#36]
I just bought an NF6032. @thesafeguy
1: I spoke to the dealer about pinning the re-locker when I move across country. He told me what to do, but is it really as easy as taking the inside panel off, and pushing the re-locker mechanism to the side? Or zip tieing it? I am thinking about just leaving the door propped open and keep it from swinging open by tieing a ratchet strap around it and putting some wood to keep the door slightly ajar. 2: What is the max anchor bolt diameter I can install? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/7/2024 4:27:38 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By truedef: I just bought an NF6032. @thesafeguy 1: I spoke to the dealer about pinning the re-locker when I move across country. He told me what to do, but is it really as easy as taking the inside panel off, and pushing the re-locker mechanism to the side? Or zip tieing it? I am thinking about just leaving the door propped open and keep it from swinging open by tieing a ratchet strap around it and putting some wood to keep the door slightly ajar. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By truedef: I just bought an NF6032. @thesafeguy 1: I spoke to the dealer about pinning the re-locker when I move across country. He told me what to do, but is it really as easy as taking the inside panel off, and pushing the re-locker mechanism to the side? Or zip tieing it? I am thinking about just leaving the door propped open and keep it from swinging open by tieing a ratchet strap around it and putting some wood to keep the door slightly ajar. I like the door-locked-open better. Messing with relockers could result in a lockout if you dork the assembly. Open the door, extend the bolts to lock the door in the open state, pad the body/door contact points, strap it tight. 2: What is the max anchor bolt diameter I can install? I believe it's 1/2" diameter, could be 5/8"... I don't recall exactly. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/7/2024 4:48:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WaterbugB: Does anyone in the safe industry or @thesafeguy know if there are any legitimate plans to bring to market more safe models/sizes sporting the newer RSC level 2 burglary rating?? Also is it true that amsec is discontinuing the “max” line of smaller tl-15 safes? In particular the mini max? That would be a shame since it’s one of the lightest and most compact of the tl-15 options. I just want to say that I’ve learned quite a bit over the past few months in general about safes and the different features, build quality, and security ratings thanks to the guys here. I can attribute quite a bit of my new insight to the incredible amount of straightforward information that’s contained within the pages of this post. So thanks everyone for the great conversations and the knowledge that’s been shared on this forum! It is a true wealth of useful information especially when navigating all the advertising fluff and selling points when looking to invest in the best safe for a particular need. I’ve discovered that something in my brain finds the engineering and materials that go into different safes to be fascinating! Like the ultimate adult access denial puzzle. Tbh I’ve probably spent a little too much time nerding out researching these things 🥵 I know that the right safe for a particular person is whatever makes them feel secure and at ease. But I can’t help but wish that there was more of a selection available that fills the considerable gap between the RSC 1 rating and the TL 15 level. I just hope we don’t have to wait until 2025 to see if any manufacturers are planning to submit for UL testing and release a selection of home safes with an RSC level 2 rating. I mean come on the BF2 gun safe can’t be the only one… Especially for those out there looking for a more secure option that will fit in a closet or even a cabinet without having the price tag and weight that comes with a tl-15. I have been out of the industry for almost 3 years now, but I do follow what's happening. My perspective is that most (if not all) companies want you to think that the UL ratings don't add much value. Ratings are expensive to get and maintain. They restrict the flexibility that most manufacturers enjoy with loosie-goosey changes on the fly as material costs and other forces drive products out of strict compliance with hard-line listings, no cheating is possible nor allowed. I personally disagree with the notion that UL ratings are meaningless, as most safe manufacturers would like you to believe. Those guys at UL know their sh!t, and many of the companies out there that don't have UL ratings are in that position because they failed testing. A UL rating definitely drives the cost up considerably, and require constant maintenance and demanding regulatory compliance thru relentless and random product inspections, at your expense. The problem with having a more granular spectrum of ratings is again totally about the cost-benefit balance. The market is 80%+ in the cheapest, lightest and lowest security unlisted models, and volume is where the money is. More models in between just dilutes the sales numbers for the smaller market segment. So, there is no payoff for the big players that have the horsepower to develop and produce in-between levels of security. This has been the case since the first import gunsafes started coming in from China in the late 90's. They want to sell lots on one size, one color, one level, cheap. When this consumer demographic changes, then you might find diversity... |
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Posted: 1/14/2024 10:24:33 PM EDT
[#39]
SafeGuy,
I want to say Thank You for all the great information you have given this thread over the past 10+ years. In 2021 I bought an AMSEC BF7240 based off of your comments. I have been very pleased with it. Also, I am currently in the process of buying a safe from World Wide Safes in Miami as well. Their WW-6536 model to be precise. So I have been a fan of your postings and information for some time. I was disheartened to hear of your tenure at AMSEC coming to an end, but am happy you appear to be in good spirits and doing well. As well as still being active on this thread. Thank you for that. Question: do you think there will be a problem with me drilling into the sides of the world wide safe from the inside, so I can attach SecureIt gun panels to hold my firearms? I know the concrete is supposed to be pretty stout concrete, so I didn’t know if you had any tips or tricks for drilling into it just enough that I can attach the wall panels. Thanks again for all the great information from over the years. I have included a photo of my AMSEC and the new World Wide Safe I am buying. Also, any additional information you have about these safes would be great. I understand AMSEC makes this model for World Wide.   
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/18/2024 4:57:18 PM EDT
[#40]
What happened to TheSafeGuy?
Hi all, happy new year! Hoping you all had a great holiday. So, I thought I might share what I have been up to since leaving AMSEC. Getting dumped during the pandemic was a major bummer, as you can imagine. My 32 years at AMSEC gave me a very narrow, yet diversified base. When I found myself seeking employment, being only a few years before retirement age in an unprecedented world-wide pandemic, the cards were really stacked against me. I managed to find a job after a few months with a local high-end faucet manufacturing company. The job was okay, nowhere near the level of my experience, but it was nice to step down a notch and get in the trenches. Less stress, and rewarding work. I am a driven, goal oriented engineer, and that came to work against me. Blowing through a major project in 6 months that the company had floundered with for over 4 years, I pretty much burned up the work, and they weren't able to keep me busy. Small company, no horsepower to sustain a flood of new product releases. So, off to the employment lines again... What to do? I was not ready to retire, and I have a lot more energy to spend. So, through all of this, I began freelancing as an Engineering contractor. It started out small, and I have built a nice business. I'm now sustaining a mostly full time workload and making a good living on my own schedule. The reason I am sharing is because of the nature of a large part of my freelance work. It seems I have fallen into a special industry, firearms design. Yea, I'm design guns and gun parts now. Some of my projects include: Lightweight AR-10 Bolt Carrier. 22LR AR-15 Conversion Kit 9mm AR Platform AR-15 Upper with Upswing Ejector Door, Forward Assist, and Lightweight BCG. Belt Fed 22LR AR Platform. Tactical Training Grenade. Fixtures for various gun parts & accessory manufacturing tooling Bufferless Recoil System for AR-15 Various AR10/15 accessories. This has been a ton of fun, and I'm bringing some innovations to another industry. Sorry, I can't share more detail or name the company, it is all proprietary stuff. My freelance work has included a lot of other industries, but the gun stuff is the most exciting of all. Anyway, I thought I would share... |
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Posted: 1/18/2024 5:27:20 PM EDT
[#41]
Sounds like very fun, challenging work. Glad to hear you found something that suits your talents and interests!
I have a question about my safe, for you or anybody here who knows, I think it’s a 7240. The ESL10 does not operate with the voltage provided by 2 9V batteries. First two years it was fine. It’s gotten worse over the last few years, and I currently have the door closed but not latched. I’ve tried many new batteries, both Duracell copper top and Energizer. It’s not a battery problem. Should I replace both the keypad and dead bolt device? I see they can be bought online. Or should I have a shop troubleshoot it and replace parts as required? I’m sure it won’t be cheap, but better than me screwing something up. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/18/2024 5:39:06 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Maroonfeather: Sounds like very fun, challenging work. Glad to hear you found something that suits your talents and interests! I have a question about my safe, for you or anybody here who knows, I think it’s a 7240. The ESL10 does not operate with the voltage provided by 2 9V batteries. First two years it was fine. It’s gotten worse over the last few years, and I currently have the door closed but not latched. I’ve tried many new batteries, both Duracell copper top and Energizer. It’s not a battery problem. Should I replace both the keypad and dead bolt device? I see they can be bought online. Or should I have a shop troubleshoot it and replace parts as required? I’m sure it won’t be cheap, but better than me screwing something up. I would definitely replace the whole lock kit. Something is causing binding in the lock, and that could result in a lockout at any moment. It's possible you have some interference with your locking system that is causing the bolt to see more drag than normal, so be sure to analyze the bolt clearances. It should be totally free to move without touching anything in the locking system. |
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Posted: 1/18/2024 5:45:46 PM EDT
[#43]
TheSafeGuy,
It bring me joy to hear things are going so well for you. I feel like I’ve known you for years simply because I’ve been reading this thread for years. LOL Your information was the basis of all my safe and vault decisions. When I read you were terminated from AMSEC, I was angry for you. You CLEARY knew your craft. But I still bought my AMSEC because you were so pivotal in it’s design. I even read your comments on other threads about the World Wide Safe that’s a generic version of the AMSEC AMVAULT that you helped to design. I’m a nerd. I admit it. And your comments filled that void in me for more knowledge. (I’m the guy who loves knowing how things really work). If I have more safe and vault questions are you open to me sending you a Direct Message? Your information base is simple unrivaled. I wish you all the best health and happiness in this new stage of your life. You have a community of friends and supporters here. |
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Posted: 1/21/2024 12:41:54 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: I would definitely replace the whole lock kit. Something is causing binding in the lock, and that could result in a lockout at any moment. It's possible you have some interference with your locking system that is causing the bolt to see more drag than normal, so be sure to analyze the bolt clearances. It should be totally free to move without touching anything in the locking system. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: Originally Posted By Maroonfeather: Sounds like very fun, challenging work. Glad to hear you found something that suits your talents and interests! I have a question about my safe, for you or anybody here who knows, I think it’s a 7240. The ESL10 does not operate with the voltage provided by 2 9V batteries. First two years it was fine. It’s gotten worse over the last few years, and I currently have the door closed but not latched. I’ve tried many new batteries, both Duracell copper top and Energizer. It’s not a battery problem. Should I replace both the keypad and dead bolt device? I see they can be bought online. Or should I have a shop troubleshoot it and replace parts as required? I’m sure it won’t be cheap, but better than me screwing something up. I would definitely replace the whole lock kit. Something is causing binding in the lock, and that could result in a lockout at any moment. It's possible you have some interference with your locking system that is causing the bolt to see more drag than normal, so be sure to analyze the bolt clearances. It should be totally free to move without touching anything in the locking system. Sounds like that requires some rigging or shimming to get the bolt clearances accurate. Probably a job for a professional if that setup is so critical and touchy. Thanks for the response. |
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Posted: 1/25/2024 3:57:43 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: What happened to TheSafeGuy? Hi all, happy new year! Hoping you all had a great holiday. So, I thought I might share what I have been up to since leaving AMSEC. Getting dumped during the pandemic was a major bummer, as you can imagine. My 32 years at AMSEC gave me a very narrow, yet diversified base. When I found myself seeking employment, being only a few years before retirement age in an unprecedented world-wide pandemic, the cards were really stacked against me. I managed to find a job after a few months with a local high-end faucet manufacturing company. The job was okay, nowhere near the level of my experience, but it was nice to step down a notch and get in the trenches. Less stress, and rewarding work. I am a driven, goal oriented engineer, and that came to work against me. Blowing through a major project in 6 months that the company had floundered with for over 4 years, I pretty much burned up the work, and they weren't able to keep me busy. Small company, no horsepower to sustain a flood of new product releases. So, off to the employment lines again... What to do? I was not ready to retire, and I have a lot more energy to spend. So, through all of this, I began freelancing as an Engineering contractor. It started out small, and I have built a nice business. I'm now sustaining a mostly full time workload and making a good living on my own schedule. The reason I am sharing is because of the nature of a large part of my freelance work. It seems I have fallen into a special industry, firearms design. Yea, I'm design guns and gun parts now. Some of my projects include: Lightweight AR-10 Bolt Carrier. 22LR AR-15 Conversion Kit 9mm AR Platform AR-15 Upper with Upswing Ejector Door, Forward Assist, and Lightweight BCG. Belt Fed 22LR AR Platform. Tactical Training Grenade. Fixtures for various gun parts & accessory manufacturing tooling Bufferless Recoil System for AR-15 Various AR10/15 accessories. This has been a ton of fun, and I'm bringing some innovations to another industry. Sorry, I can't share more detail or name the company, it is all proprietary stuff. My freelance work has included a lot of other industries, but the gun stuff is the most exciting of all. Anyway, I thought I would share... Congratulations on finding new work that you enjoy! Happy to hear that everything is going well! |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 2/14/2024 9:59:16 AM EDT
[#46]
I had the dreaded ESL5 lock electronics failure and couldn’t get into my Amsec gun safe. I’m posting this here in the hope it might help someone else.
It started when I had what I thought was a low battery and it wouldn’t open. Replaced the battery and it opened normally – once. Since I thought it was just a battery issue I relocked the safe and went to the range. When I went to open it again it gave me 4 beeps and wouldn’t open even after multiple attempts. I found this thread and tried all the advice posted here with no success. Even tried disconnecting the battery for two days and pressing the keys to drain the capacitor. Nothing was working. I left the battery disconnected overnight for one last try. I had a thought that maybe shorting the battery cable terminals before reconnecting the battery might give a more complete capacitor discharge. I grabbed a nearby muzzle thread protector and shorted the terminals on the battery connector then connected the battery and it opened first try! It might have been a coincidence it opened after shorting the terminals and it would have worked anyway, who knows? Hopefully shorting the terminals is one more tool that might help someone else get their malfunctioning safe open. I now know when there is any hint of an issue or when replacing batteries to test it multiple times BEFORE locking the safe again! Thanks to TheSafeGuy and everyone else who posted advice! |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/16/2024 8:06:08 AM EDT
[#47]
Anyone know about what page the serial numbers for the bad batch of ESL-5 locks was on.
I am going to look at an amsec that has a lock that could be in that range, and would like to know. Thanks Duke |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 3/2/2024 2:19:05 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: What happened to TheSafeGuy? Hi all, happy new year! Hoping you all had a great holiday. So, I thought I might share what I have been up to since leaving AMSEC. Getting dumped during the pandemic was a major bummer, as you can imagine. My 32 years at AMSEC gave me a very narrow, yet diversified base. When I found myself seeking employment, being only a few years before retirement age in an unprecedented world-wide pandemic, the cards were really stacked against me. I managed to find a job after a few months with a local high-end faucet manufacturing company. The job was okay, nowhere near the level of my experience, but it was nice to step down a notch and get in the trenches. Less stress, and rewarding work. I am a driven, goal oriented engineer, and that came to work against me. Blowing through a major project in 6 months that the company had floundered with for over 4 years, I pretty much burned up the work, and they weren't able to keep me busy. Small company, no horsepower to sustain a flood of new product releases. So, off to the employment lines again... What to do? I was not ready to retire, and I have a lot more energy to spend. So, through all of this, I began freelancing as an Engineering contractor. It started out small, and I have built a nice business. I'm now sustaining a mostly full time workload and making a good living on my own schedule. The reason I am sharing is because of the nature of a large part of my freelance work. It seems I have fallen into a special industry, firearms design. Yea, I'm design guns and gun parts now. Some of my projects include: Lightweight AR-10 Bolt Carrier. 22LR AR-15 Conversion Kit 9mm AR Platform AR-15 Upper with Upswing Ejector Door, Forward Assist, and Lightweight BCG. Belt Fed 22LR AR Platform. Tactical Training Grenade. Fixtures for various gun parts & accessory manufacturing tooling Bufferless Recoil System for AR-15 Various AR10/15 accessories. This has been a ton of fun, and I'm bringing some innovations to another industry. Sorry, I can't share more detail or name the company, it is all proprietary stuff. My freelance work has included a lot of other industries, but the gun stuff is the most exciting of all. Anyway, I thought I would share... Glad to hear you're doing well and found something you like that pays. My vault is finally finished, well mostly finished. Your advice help quite a bit with it. Thank you! |
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