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Posted: 7/30/2012 5:43:35 PM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT |
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Posted: 7/30/2012 11:34:53 PM
No, the range adjustments will be the same.
OTOH, I would never zero at 100 with that huge notch. I can't repeatedly get my eye in the same place behind it at all. What I did was zero at 50 yards with the rear sight set to 200. Confirm zero at 200 yards. Personally, if I can't zero a rifle with the iron sights within their mechanical limits, the rifle goes back. H |
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Posted: 7/30/2012 11:47:07 PM
I zero'd at 100 with the small 100 yard aperture. The rifle zero'd fine with the sights I originally had on it (fixed front flip up rear). It was when I put the dioplers on that I had some challenges. Improvise, Adapt, and overcome!
Originally Posted By halmbarte:
No, the range adjustments will be the same. OTOH, I would never zero at 100 with that huge notch. I can't repeatedly get my eye in the same place behind it at all. What I did was zero at 50 yards with the rear sight set to 200. Confirm zero at 200 yards. Personally, if I can't zero a rifle with the iron sights within their mechanical limits, the rifle goes back. H |
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Posted: 7/31/2012 1:12:37 AM
There were some issues with the first diopler sights Sig released; most people couldn't get them to zero but I think their problem was opposite yours - their sight bottomed and they were still shooting high. I haven't heard of this problem recently so I assume Sig fixed the issue, I lucked out on mine and it zero no problem.
If filing the front sight worked I wouldn't sweat it as long as you're sure the rear is seated all the way down on the rail and all the way back. Range adjustments should be uneffected. The sights are close enough to AR height to be zeroed at 100m, then test the 200m setting at 50m and the 300m at 25m. They should be close/ballpark. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 11:35:38 AM
[Last Edit: 8/7/2012 11:47:12 AM by GySgt_D]
Break out the Dremel and open up the (not so) elliptical slot shown in the pic below––
What I attempted to communicate with this pic's annotation is that the smaller hole should actually be a slot. Otherwise, the only thing allowing any adjustment whatsoever is the slop in the assembly. A fine example of Sig QC. So, you need to extend the hole shown at the seven o'clock position further clockwise so that the hole resembles a sausage. Or a banana. Takes all of a few minutes. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 1:39:16 PM
[Last Edit: 8/7/2012 1:42:16 PM by LIONHART]
I don't know why people bother with those UGLY, shitty Chinese sights. Get a set of Aurora's and call it a day.
http://www.auroraind.net/forums/showthread.php?2-Swiss-Style-Diopter-Sights-Front-and-Rear |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 6:30:48 PM
If I'm replacing the Factory Diopler I'm not paying $225 for Aurora's. I getting a set of Troy Micros.
Originally Posted By LIONHART:
I don't know why people bother with those UGLY, shitty Chinese sights. Get a set of Aurora's and call it a day. http://www.auroraind.net/forums/showthread.php?2-Swiss-Style-Diopter-Sights-Front-and-Rear |
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Posted: 8/15/2012 11:12:00 PM
replaced mine with AR sights and a rail but then had to get a DDLES stock adapter for AR cheek weld.
But mine would only zero with the rear sight so high it was wobbly, some guns have this issue and others dont. Original Sig 5xx series has 3 different front sight heights to be fitted by factory or armorer, however with 556 there is only one. And what are the odds that the 556 has tighter specs than the originals? |
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