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is that made by Keltec? It looks significantly better than the regular one.

This has just turned the RDB into something I'm moderately interested in.

Wish RFB owners could get some M-Lok love...

Looking at it again (assuming it's metal of some kind) I would worry about heat build up from where the piston comes back and from the barrel. It looks well ventilated though but I did burn my girlish hands on the handguard takedown pin on my RDB while I was doing some T&E with it. Oh also did anyone see the adjustable LOP stock on the survival model? I liked that too.

Yes it does.

As stated already, I concur that the new handguard looks much nicer than the original stock. I do have one question though, is this new handguard free-floated?

doubtful looks like the pin is still there (under the gas block)

That's unfortunate as most complaints are that pin getting hot and no ever says, 'I just un-freefloated my rifle this weekend as it was too accurate'. For those of you that own the RDB, does it appear if there's a possibility of designing a handguard that fully locks into the reciver so that cross pin in the gas block could be eliminated?

Do want that handguard, and a mod to free float.  But I'd settle for that hg and the brass catcher.

How difference is a free floated barrel/gastube/piston assembly going to make?...besides not burning your fingers if you forget about the pin

I'm not sure if you're being sarcastic or not, but I'm going to assume it's a legit question. Any time you put pressure on a barrel you can effect the harmonics, if that pressure is not identical every time you will effect accuracy. Whether it's a bolt action rifle or AR, if the barrel is free floated the harmonics after the shot will be unimpeded resulting in repeatable accuracy. With the current config of the RDB, you're constantly putting pressure on the barrel via the handguard pin through the gas block resulting in possible different pressures.

Ditto.

      I have found that when shooting for accuracy with the RDB....not allowing anything to touch the handguard tightens up groups.....but even shooting it conventionally,  it's accurate to just over 2moa....so for an off the rack semi auto..that's about right

Mine is 1.5 moa with decent 62-64 duty ammo, cheapo gt ammo is,like 3". Once i figured out the gas system, mine is super reliable and pretty darn accurate. Ive put over 3k through mine probably 2k of steel cased ammo. It runs it all perfectly. Great rifle!

Any more info on this?

I had a limited time to sight in a leftover scope to try some load development today.  A 24.5gr of Varget behind a Hornady 75gr BTHP in virgin Federal brass shows promise.  The first four rounds were inside a 1.5" circle at 100yds until the brake on the neighbors baby cannon blasted me on the fifth shot.  The results are gratifying considering shimming will be needed to zero the scope to the pup.  POA was 9.5" left with maxed windage adjustment.  FWIW, the scope is a Millett 6x25x56AO that dwarfs the pup.

Anyone heard anything new on the release of the M-lok handguard ??

A third party mfg is going to be making one. Look over on bullpup forum there was a thread on it. He just had the rapid prototype done

I am liking this new handguard. But i do really like the look of the original handguard as well. I just hope to get one of these one day.

Since everyone is talking about free floating handguard because of the accuracy, what is the typical accuracy of this rifle? Also, what was the typical accuracy of the RFB?

Typical accuracy is about 2 moa. No idea on the RFB

New Keltec M-Lok RDB Handguard

Since these are aluminum I wonder how hot these will get after a few mags.

No more than any AR handguard would, I'd imagine.

I have said it before. Someone needs to buy Keltecs design and produce it with better quality (or they could step it up themselves).  

That bullpup with that handguard and a SiCo omega or TBA ultra 5 would be about perfect imho

Do you have any details or a video on how they mount? 

I agree.  It'll be interesting to see once it's done with a suppressor on there how it looks.  I'm betting pretty sharp.

I'm sure there will be.  That's a 3D printed prototype, and are being manufactured now.

There's more pictures on the Bullpup forum from the beginning of the project.

Thank you. Look what I missed since I havent been over there for a month. The RDB is such a fine rifle it just needs a little aftermarket push ??

Is your site down?
What's the price going to be?

Website is under construction so that it can host e-commerce.  Had to go do a different hosting company and GoDaddy wouldn't allow access to the code to just copy over so the site had to be recreated from scratch.

Price is retail at $179 for anodized or FDE cerakote.  There are 25 anodized and 4 cerakote remaining to sell.  Discount to $149 for those two will remain in place until the e-commerce side is up and running.  

That looks amazing, would it still be 149 if I order now?

That looks amazing, would it still be 149 if I order now?

@LeeMajors how about installation instructions?

It's pretty straightforward, we put instructions on the Bullpup forum with pictures.  I have been providing links to people who purchase these.

There are two small rear stays that get screwed onto the rail in step 1 with 4 6-32 screws that go over the rear posts.  

There is one larger u-shaped front stay that has a silver aluminum internally-threaded collet that gets tapped into the 1/4' hole and through the gas block (same hole diameter) that holds the front stay to the gas block.  It's threaded 8-32 and two 8-32 screws go into that to hole the rail on.

Once these 3 stays are on, you slide the rail onto the rifle from the front (the front stay is too big to just slap straight up from underneath, you have to slide it on by inserting the muzzle into the back of the rail then slide it all the  way back until the rear stays slide over the posts).  That lines it up with the front stay.

The two 8-32 screws go in at the left and right into that gas block collet, and two 6-23 screws go into the bottom left and right 45 angles to add additional stability.  

Last step (optional but recommended) is to blue loctite all your screws one by one then let cure overnight before shooting (loctite not included).  

Hope that helps.  Takes about 5 minutes or so for most people.  You'll need a set of punches and a hammer.  We recommend using the punch upside down on the front collet to avoid damaging the threads.  It's a tight fit.  A little gun oil helps, too.  Not terrible, but it will take some slow and steady tapping for a minute to get it into position equidistant from the sides.