Good news for us.

Answer your phone if you don't recognize the number...

Too bad i missed out on this .

It's likely more than what was requested was ordered. If I were you, I'd talk to Pete or Steyr in the chance there are extra.

Parts are still in customs.  Backorders will begin processing week after next.

 

I wish Steyr would just go to a 1:8 twist and leave it at that.  1:8 is pretty much the most universal twist rate

Has anybody gotten a phone call or email regarding these parts?

Not yet.

I'm down for one if there are any extras.

Got the call...

I did as well.

All the parts are in. If you're on the list for the parts, and did not get a call today, it will be coming after the weekend.

Same--got the call this afternoon.

Mine arrived today and are installed; pictures to follow

Please excuse the lack of front grip--I didn't have a suitable Green unit to install at the moment.


Similarly, all of my 42 round magazines were hiding from me.

Visible non-factory parts: A2 style rail, FN-made 24" LMG barrel, Steyr Heavy Duty Rail, LMG compensator and checknut, Steyr heavy duty SSG Bipod, A3 scope.


This setup is certainly heavy. I think it may be better suited to longer range accuracy than to high volume of fire, but we'll see. The rail feels solid and I can't imagine that the bipod will affect POI like the original units did. Hopefully I will get a chance to run out to the range later this week or early next to test it out.

Very nice!

Rival - you got yours quick, looks good on that gun.

Did you have issues getting the old FH and CN off?
How did you get the new MB and CN tightened down?

I'll probably use a bit of rocksett and align everything, then use a mini strap wrench to hold the brake while tightening the nut against the brake with a wrench.

If anyone is interested in a travelling wrench set, I would be OK with loaning the two thin wrenches and strap wrench - as long as it gets back to me.

When I ordered the barrel I had Pete loosen the FH and Checknut for me; at the time I still thought it would fit the old type bipod and thought I'd look for one.

It still isn't properly tightened--I hadn't figured out a solution for installing the MB without damaging it. A strap wrench may be just the thing--I don't see any flats. Someone could make a tool to fit the three ports in the front of the brake, but that would require more fabrication skills than I currently have.

I received my parts a couple days ago. The quality is as usual, exceptional for Steyr products. After throwing this together to see how it is before installing permanently, as someone with an original LMG AUG barrel, this new setup is in my opinion a better product.

I'd buy one of these again before buying the old LMG barrel.

I'm really amazed at the bipod, it is by far the nicest bipod I've seen. This thing is a utilitarian tank. It's also surprisingly light, maybe 0.5 pound at most. It's truly "quick detach" too. I'm impressed.
The bottom rail and stud is one monolithic part. Very nice.
The muzzle brake and check nut are high quality as well.



I'll put up pictures later of how to install it all.
Have yet to remove the flash hider, I'll see how that goes later today...

They are nice looking but its hard to beat the original 24" heavy barrel.

It's a classic for sure!

True, and since Manticore/Ratworx flaked out on the reproduction-ish bipod we don't have many options

The old barrel mounted bipod certainly isn't great for accuracy. But I was disappointed when Ratworx never did them. My understanding Manticore did their part of the deal, but Ratworx pushed it off/flaked for some reason. I contacted them about it a long time ago. They never bothered to answer me back.

I was tempted with these accessories for my 24 inch barrel. But in the end, I decided to go a different and much cheaper route. A rail section from a place called 2020 I believe and a Harris bipod. Not as heavy duty. But it does the job just fine. I still kinda wish I could get the pieces. But not for the price they cost. Just not worth it.

I always looked at the old bipod on the barrel and thought, "that's not going to be good for your POA/POI" . If you're using the weapon as intended and laying down covering fire, doesn't matter, but I don't have the funds for a MG let alone the funds to feed it.

I went with basically the same setup, the Steyr rail and a Harris bipod, and I think it's a better option than the original if you're going to be shooting and not just collecting. Nothing wrong with the Harris, I prefer it over the Atlas I have. It's faster and easier to deploy, just as stable.

Forget POA/POI with the barrel mounted bipod. Spray and pray man.

I've got a set of the Steyr grip rails on my normal A3. But at the time I was trying to go cheaper. The rail section I bought is made really well and was something like $30 as opposed to the $275 or so for the Steyr rails. I love my AUGs.But man, shits expensive.

Got the flash hider off. Put everything together and it's all set now.

I'll write up something tomorrow on how to get it all together.

This is a really neat setup and I'm happy with how it is. Like I wrote above, collection and historic value aside, I'd take this kit over an Austrian LMG barrel all day long.

Very nice. Tell us about your scope if you don't mind.

Meopta K-dot

Illuminated reticle (a bit different) is good to 600 if sighted in at 300.

Extremely bright and clear glass, at that price point I have yet to see more clear glass.

There's better scopes out there but this has served me well.

That thing is pure awesome.  The white stock is very cool.  I was apparently too late, but any chance there will be another run of those barrels?

It appears that Pete still has some: http://www.pjs-steyraug.com/augusrparts.html

I bought mine when it was on sale directly from Steyr Arms.

I've seen rumblings that because it's taken/took so long to sell the few 20, 24, and I8 inch barrels that Steyr had FN make. That I'd be really surprised if they did a run of "special" barrels again.

Now that I spent a lot of money, how do I put this all together?

Unfortunately none of the factory armorer manuals that I have cover installation of any of these parts. Luckily you now have a guide to go from.

I'll cover this in three parts: muzzle brake, bipod rail, and bipod / final product.



Before starting, you'll need tools, thread locking compound, and degreaser.

5mm hex wrench
(2) two - 19mm or 3/4" open-end wrenches
4mm punch
small hammer or mallet

blue loctite
rocksett or red loctite

bronze brush or similar
degreaser

torch (MAPP or something similar)
maybe a vice
maybe a mini strap wrench

a third arm

To put the brake on, you need to get the old flash hider off. The muzzle brake is an old but very effective design.


In talking with Pete, he mentioned that the FN 24" barrels have the most difficult to loosen flash hiders and check nuts. I've done quite a few removals on my own, but never on a 24" until now. Pete was right, this was a painful SOB to get off, hence before proceeding if you are doubting your ability or you don't have the proper tools to do this on your own, you may want to contact Pete about having him remove the flash hider / check nut for you.


If you decide to proceed, good luck.


This archived thread may be of help: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_43/466447_Stuck_aug_flash_hider.html&page=1#i4624563


The 24" FN barrel as it comes from Steyr (minus forward grip, which is easily removed by a 4mm punch and gentle tapping with a small hammer / mallet).



Make sure you have the proper wrenches, or buy a 19mm or 3/4" wrench at home depot for $4 and grind the face down to fit.



Heat the flash hider and check nut with a torch to burn off the 12 gallons of loctite that Steyr used:



After taking off quite a few AUG muzzle devices, some are easy to get off, others are nearly impossible. It's most likely completely dependent upon the person who applies the thread locker and tightens the muzzle devices.

Once you think you burned it all off, it probably isn't - might want to heat it some more...


Remove flash hider and check nut. May the force be with you. Reference thread above for help. You can also stick it in a vice and work on it that way or get another pair of arms, cheater bar, etc.. Whatever you do, do not try to loosen the flash hider / check nut by securing the barrel by the gas block, forward grip, or with the barrel in the receiver, etc.

Looking at this photo and having read the linked thread, by keeping the wrenches oriented properly with the force applied to the first wrench and the second wrench pressing against the floor, you tighten the check nut and loosen the flash hider at the same time. This is one way, of many, of getting it off.



With the brake and check nut free, welcome to the mess left behind. Clean with a bronze brush and some sort of degreaser. Make sure the threads are dry and clean before proceeding.



With the threading cleaned, apply thread locking compound. I like to use Rocksett, but you could use red loctite also.




Screw on your check nut all the way until it bottoms out. Thread pitch is LEFT HAND. Counterclockwise will tighten.



Screw on the new muzzle brake until it contacts the check nut, then back off until your muzzle brake is aligned correctly. The gap is very important.



Use the unobtainable tool from Steyr to secure the muzzle brake, or a mini strap wrench, or align slightly to the left, then tighten the check nut against the brake until it is tight and cannot rotate. This is why the Rocksett or red loctite is important! Get it aligned, tighten as best you can, and let the thread locker do its job.


Correctly aligned, tightened, and finished installation::

These are your bipod rail parts. It is virtually identical to the A3 grip rail. The only difference is the bipod spigot stud. It's worth mentioning that the spigot and rail portion is one monolithic piece.



First step is to stick the mounting rod into the gas block where the forward grip once was and gently drive in the securing pin with the 4mm punch and small hammer / mallet.




Slide the bottom rail with bipod spigot over the mounting rod.



Slide the horizontal rail up against the bottom rail on mounting rod.




Apply blue loctite to the bolt with two washers fitted and install directly into mounting rod. Tighten with 5mm hex wrench.




Apply blue loctite to set screw and tighten (5mm hex) against gas block with a small amount of force. Do not over tighten. The goal is to straighten the rail parallel to the barrel, while securing it also.



Finished product, arrow points to set screw.

The last piece of kit is the bipod. This is the Steyr SSG heavy duty bipod. It's also the bipod used on their HS50 .50 BMG. The bipod is a work of art and very light. Bullet proof, built like a tank, etc. are all good adjectives for this item.

The bipod simply mates to the bipod stud and automatically locks into place. A button on top of the bipod is depressed to instantly release the bipod from the spigot stud. A small lever underneath tightens the bipod to the stud to eliminate the left/right cant if desired.






One leg is adjusted differently than the other, not going to take another picture. You get the idea...



The legs of the bipod stow forward and lock in place. Unlike the original LMG heavy barrel, these bipod legs and feet cannot contact the barrel.




Deployed, the bipod legs adjust (4 positions) downward by pulling down by hand.



Finished installation of all parts. With a 42rd magazine the magazine tripods the gun nearly level.

Gorgeous.
Id estimate more like 13 gallons of loctite. I took a blow torch the first time to an aug barrel and thought I got it all out. Then we tried to wrench loose and no go. Came back after lunch, torched some more, watched more smoke come out, and finally it cracked loose.

Side note, I knew a short black guy while in the Marines. His nickname was tripod.

Great explanation Maleante!  



I swear you've posted wrench details before, but I don't seem to have bookmarked  Any suggestions for decent inexpensive ready-to-go wrenches?

There's not really any wrenches that
1. Fit the width of the wrench flats Steyr cuts
2. Have enough length for leverage
3. Are inexpensive

I have some $20+ wrenches that work, but on this last 24" barrel, a MAC tappet wrench bent to the point it nearly broke... When the MAC crapped out, I ground down the face of a home depot husky wrench - which worked perfectly.

If you'd like I can get another husky wrench and grind it down to fit, which you would be more than welcome to use.

Snip

I found a wrench that worked at sears in a multipack of metric wrenches. was like 10 bucks? Needs to be skinny

Bike wrenches on Amazon are about $7 or $8

sl.img that was hosting the pictures seems to be down for good. Will re-host the pictures to imgur and fix the broken links.

Thanks in advance!  Came here to look at the correct "step on the wrenches" technique after seeing how badly a local guy's flash hider got mangled during removal from his 16" barrel.

can't wait to see it!!!!  love them long assed barrels

I'm still going to repost all the pictures, meant to do it sooner, but am not able get to it until February. Sometime midweek they should be up again.

Sounds great!  Looking forward to it!!!

All the pictures back up now.

Dude!  Awesome!!!!

thank you for the work you put into that!!!!!

Stupid question, but after the install of all the parts for the 24 incher, switching to another barrel or removal for cleaning remains unchanged, correct?

Yes. :D

I've gone the tappet wrench or grind down a cheap wrench route. Interfan is using Stahlwille wrenches, I've no experience with them but if they work then overall it's probably the best option.

See his post here:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_43/473983_Aug-barrels-.html#i4729023

Thanks for the link - they're OOS at the moment, but I backordered a couple anyway.

How effective is the new Steyr muzzle break? Besides the obvious cool factor/ collectors points, are there any performance gains?

It's difficult to tell as I've only had experience with them on the 24" heavy barrels.

To give you what you're asking, one would have to mount it on a shorter barrel and do side by side comparisons.

I have a couple extra muzzle brakes and intend on putting one on an 18" barreled A3.