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Posted: 2/18/2017 8:24:34 PM EDT
I've been having some issues with my 650 and wanted some outside opinions. Currently I'm running through a boatload of 223 brass to get it ready to tumble/prep. I'm using a Lee universal decapping die, and that's the only die in the toolhead. The issue is that the casings aren't lining up properly, and when I raise the ram, the case mouth is striking the fatter part of the decapping rod, and is causing damage that essentially ruins the case. I have to to go slow and manually maneuver the casing into the die.

I've gone fast, I've gone slow and everywhere in between and cannot get the issue to stop. I've adjusted the case insert ramp if the press, and occasionally it'll work for maybe 20 pieces of brass before I'm right back where I started.

I know it's something that I'm doing wrong, or something that I've adjusted wrong but I can't figure out what it is. I've seen tons of videos of people running their presses like greased lightening when decapping brass.

While I'm at it, the issue is the same no matter the die. Even when I'm loading (any caliber) I have the same issue. Raise the ram, and boom, like I've run into a brick wall and another piece of brass ruined.  I set my toolheads up to Dillobs specs, I believe. Meaning I follow the instruction manual for toolhead setup.

Anyone have any insight? The decapping rod is new and has maybe 1000 pieces of brass on it, so I wouldn't think it's bent. At any rate, even if it was bent the case still doesn't line up right.  I'm attaching pictures so you have something to go by.

Thanks everyone.





Link Posted: 2/18/2017 8:57:20 PM EDT
[#1]
Is the brass being pushed all the way in to station one on the forward stroke? It's hard to tell in the pic, because being off by a bit will cause these issues.

If its that, adjust the little rod that rides along the black plastic wedgeblock/cam on the casefeeder shuttle until it pushes the brass far enough in. If you watch it as you cycle the handle down and then up/forward you should be able to see how it works and which way to adjust the rod.

It could be your case ejector wire spring hitting the casefeeder shuttle too.
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 9:08:27 PM EDT
[#2]
You may still not have the ramp adjusted properly.  

As I'm sure you know, the case is inserted into the shellplate on the priming stroke.

The distance the case is inserted in station 1 is also controlled by the priming rod stopping on a primer in station 2 (live or spent...doesn't matter when adjusting).

So, in other words, are you pushing the handle forward (like you're priming) when you make the ramp adjustment?

I adjust my 650 so that when the machine is stopped against a primer, the case in station 1 will just barely spin with the case inserter against it.
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 9:14:31 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Is the brass being pushed all the way in to station one on the forward stroke? It's hard to tell in the pic, because being off by a bit will cause these issues.

If its that, adjust the little rod that rides along the black plastic wedgeblock/cam on the casefeeder shuttle until it pushes the brass far enough in. If you watch it as you cycle the handle down and then up/forward you should be able to see how it works and which way to adjust the rod.

It could be your case ejector wire spring hitting the casefeeder shuttle too.
View Quote


This. Post video if you cant get it fixed, or call Dillon - thier customer support is second to none.
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 9:14:33 PM EDT
[#4]
Raise your camming pin so your case insert slide does not contact it when your in full aft [ ram down, handle full rearward] with the handle.

Edit pic
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 9:29:43 PM EDT
[#5]
Have also had it a build up of 'gunk' gets on the piece that pushes the brass into the shell plate that sticks and pulls the brass out a bit.
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 10:05:40 PM EDT
[#6]
At work now, but I'll check the camming rod in the morning, thank you. Below is a picture of how the brass sits in the shell holder upon full foreword stroke. I understand the fact that it only seats fully with a priming stroke. I'll also make sure there isn't any gunk causing it to become wonk-eyed.

Link Posted: 2/18/2017 10:10:05 PM EDT
[#7]
If the brass is being fully inserted into the shellplate and staying there try making sure that the shellplate bolt is correctly tightened. If there is too much slop sometimes the tall cases can tip over a little
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 10:12:06 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
If the brass is being fully inserted into the shellplate and staying there try making sure that the shellplate bolt is correctly tightened. If there is too much slop sometimes the tall cases can tip over a little
View Quote


Copy that, thank you. Also, I apologize my shell plate is nasty. Was decapping around 1000 pieces and hadn't cleaned it up yet.
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 10:37:23 PM EDT
[#9]
Keeping the press clean while running is basic. I use an acid brush or a 5/8" wide detail paint brush to clean key areas every time I refill the prime magazine when loading non pre-processed brass.

Another option that would help is to put a taper or radius on the body of that decapper. (not the small pin - the larger body portion.) I dressed mine up in a lathe. - But - Worst case to DIY - put the pin in a drill chuck and have at it with a good 'mill' or 'smooth' 'single cut' file, a fine 'bastard' would also work but will be much rougher. (Items in single quote is actual file types)

I do the same thing - just ran 1K Federal mil crip 45acp through the XL650 with Lee decapper. Then sat and watched some movies with the Dillon swagger mounted in a B&D Workmate.
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 10:53:19 PM EDT
[#10]
I made a bushing for my decapping die. It funnels the case into the center and ensures the base is centered when the decapper strikes the ildd primer. I also use a squirrel daddy decapper that I ground smooth so it won't catch on the brass when I'm running fast.




My old thread on the problem.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/448981_.html
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 11:13:05 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 11:20:26 PM EDT
[#12]
I usually take my lee decapper and pull the pin, then go over to the grinder and remove that little flat section where the case hits.  

But you should be able to get the brass in there farther.  

*edit*  What dryflash said.
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 11:34:41 PM EDT
[#13]
Thanks for the replies, everyone. I'm going to go over my press first, but tapering the rod looks like it's a winner regardless.

Many thanks!
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 11:36:22 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Simple fix.

Notice the square blunt end of the decapping rod. That is what is catching the case mouths.

Fixed, end of rod is tapered and will no longer catch on the case mouth, causing your issue.

Take the rod and chuck it in a drill. Start you grinder and with drill turning grind off the blunt end and taper it.

Go slow and don't hit the decapping pin when you grind.

Good luck
View Quote
That's how I cut mine, I didn't have a pic of it handy though.
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 11:36:58 PM EDT
[#15]
Link Posted: 2/18/2017 11:41:38 PM EDT
[#16]
I chuck mine in the drill press and put a drum sander on the dremel.  I keep a couple spares just in case I screw one up but that's pretty rare with my funnel.
Link Posted: 2/19/2017 4:30:55 PM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 2/19/2017 11:12:10 PM EDT
[#18]
I did the same thing as dryflash3

Link Posted: 2/20/2017 2:41:09 PM EDT
[#19]
Also, check the groove in your shell plate where the cartridge rim is held. Mine gets a little chunk of tumbling media or dirt in there from time to time and it tilts the case off center. I use an old dental pick to clean the grooves
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