Stuck case w/ broken tap in the primer hole.. now what?

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Stuck case w/ broken tap in the primer hole.. now what?

Posted: 10/22/2016 2:45:09 AM EDT

Ok, so I suspect I'm well and truly hosed right now.

I have an RCBS die and I didn't lube the case enough and now I've got a stuck case.
Not to fear, I have the RCBS stuck case removal kit, errrr....

I followed these steps w/ the kit:
removed die from press
loosened up, and pulled the decapping pin as far out as possible
put die back in press upside down
drilled hole in top of it (through the primer pocket) w/ drill provided in kit
used a t-wrench tap handle w/ the tap to begin creating some threads.
* at this point, it got a bit tight... tried to wind it back and the tap snapped off because I suck at this.

So now I have a stuck case, and a broken stuck case kit.

This of course coming just before a shooting outing, meaning more store bought ammo @ about $2/pop(7mm magnum) :(

Any advice? What can I do next?

pic:

Posted: 10/22/2016 3:35:00 AM EDT

[#1]

I did that once, Took out the decap pin and I just gave it some kroil and put the die back in the press the right way and used a long punch to drive out the case.

Posted: 10/22/2016 3:36:21 AM EDT

[#2]

Quote History

Quoted:
I did that once, Took out the decap pin and I just gave it some kroil and put the die back in the press the right way and used a long punch to drive out the case.

View Quote

Was just going to post the exact same thing.

Posted: 10/22/2016 3:51:34 AM EDT

[#3]

Sadly w/ this RCBS die, I can't get the decapping pin out all the way, so I can't punch it out from the top.

I had a stuck case w/ a lee die and it was way easier.

somebody elsewhere mentioned heating it w/ a propane torch and that would make the metal expand, but I don't have such a good tool supply.

I even emailed RCBS just not on their site, maybe they'll let me ship it to them if it gets that bad.

I am seeing a gunsmith tomorrow to pick up a rifle and will bring it to him hoping he can help me out.

I have so much brass for 7mm mag right now, it's going to invoke extreme butt hurt if I need to buy more factory ammo for my shooting outing on Sunday.

any pro-tips on using a tap wrench? I haven't used one before, if you can believe it.

Posted: 10/22/2016 6:17:22 AM EDT

[#4]

How in the hell did you two get the pin out with the case stuck like that ? The expander ball can't get through the neck which is being squeezed down.

OP: Put some penetrating oil around the rim and mouth of the die and put it in the freezer overnite. That rim doesn't look too bad, you may be able to put it back in the shellholder and pull it out after the case shrinks from being in the freezer all night.

If that doesn't work use a thin cut-off wheel on a dremel and make a slot across the head and tap, then use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew it.

Posted: 10/22/2016 6:20:11 AM EDT

[#5]

Oil,lots of Kroil

You should have used Kroil on the tap itself . the time to reverse a tap (and clean out the chips ) is before the tap starts to get tight.

Yes , arrange to send the die back to RCBS , they will take care of you.

I would buy a new set of dies and keep loading and then when you get all the parts back from RCBS sell off the duplicate set of dies on gunbroker or craigslist or whatever

Posted: 10/22/2016 7:42:28 AM EDT

[#6]

I had the same thing with a 9mm case. Didn't have the stuck case removal tool. I pulled the top of the die and used a brass rig and maul to pound it out.

Posted: 10/22/2016 7:54:14 AM EDT

[#7]

Put it in the freezer.

Posted: 10/22/2016 8:20:49 AM EDT

[#8]

+1 to freezer and put the Hornady lube in trash.

Someone will come along to tell me "if you follow instructions properly, it works great"

the instructions for cheap lube are much easier.. spray it on cases and start sizing.

I do use Hornady lube for some reloading but never for bottleneck rifle cases.

Posted: 10/22/2016 9:51:10 AM EDT

[#9]

You can carefully hacksaw or grind the rim of the case off up to the broken tap, it will give enough exposure to it to get it out. You should still have enough brass there to run another one in (take your time) and get it out like you planned.

Posted: 10/22/2016 11:15:17 AM EDT

[#10]

Time to send die off to RCBS, they will remove stuck case/tap.

Also mention you used the stuck case kit and they will also replace those broken parts. For free, they have great customer service.

Next time you use a tap remember this, lube tap well with tap lube and 1/2 turn in then 1/4 turn out. All the way in.

You must give the chips a way to escape, or as you found out the tap will break.

Posted: 10/22/2016 11:16:23 AM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:

Was just going to post the exact same thing.

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
I did that once, Took out the decap pin and I just gave it some kroil and put the die back in the press the right way and used a long punch to drive out the case.

Was just going to post the exact same thing.

Yep.

Posted: 10/22/2016 11:23:17 AM EDT

[#12]

It's not a bad thing to own more than one set of dies. If you do a lot of reloading shit is going to happen, at night, on holidays, the day before an important competition or hunt. You know, when all the stores are closed.

Buy another set and send the FUBAR'd one to RCBS.

Posted: 10/22/2016 11:37:10 AM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
Time to send die off to RCBS, they will remove stuck case/tap.

Also mention you used the stuck case kit and they will also replace those broken parts. For free, they have great customer service.

Next time you use a tap remember this, lube tap well with tap lube and 1/2 turn in then 1/4 turn out. All the way in.

You must give the chips a way to escape, or as you found out the tap will break.

View Quote

In a thread that gives a man a fish, this is the comment that teaches him to fish and feeds him for a lifetime.

Posted: 10/22/2016 12:15:29 PM EDT

[#14]

I dint lube an odd six case once, and got it stuck just like that about 5 years ago.
I mounted the case end into a vise, then heated the die, then with a fork I made i popped it with a hammer, and the die came right off, and fell into a bucket of waste motor oil.
Kinda brutal, but I saved the die, and have been using it ever since.

Posted: 10/22/2016 1:10:43 PM EDT

[#15]

Try screwing the die into your press upside down, so the rim is facing up. You may be able to use a claw hammer to grab the rim and leverage it out. Maybe try freezing it for a few hours first.

Posted: 10/22/2016 2:39:57 PM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:
Put it in the freezer.

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Have you tried that with any success before? I heard of it but was never able to successfully pull the case. I have also tried the air can trick and didn't work. OP, I suggest you try a punch and pushing through the threads, ream a larger hole with coarser threads. What I made for all my RCBS dies, is a 3 inch hex bolt with 1/4x28 tpi (I think that's what the thread pitch was). I had to thread it myself because I couldn't find anyone who made a bolt with full threads. You have to pull that decapping rod out somehow but once you do, you'll be able to use the threaded collar and torque that 3" bolt to push the case out. It's been a huge life saver and works so much better than the RCBS method.

Correction, I'm told it's a 1/4x26 fine thread.

Posted: 10/22/2016 4:05:43 PM EDT

[#17]

+1 on the freeze technique, but use a deep freeze if you have one.

If you own any other shell holders, look for the tightest one.

If that doesn't look like it will get a good purchase on the case rim, then I would hand file that rim till a smaller shell holder will grip. (I realize not everyone has small files.)

Then, first attempt would be to use the deep freezer to get the CTE difference to work in your favor. The brass has a larger CTE and cold should help reduce the jam.

Under most circumstances, this would work. If it doesn't, you should balance between sending it to their shop, or getting brutal with pounding through from the top, even if it means taking the cutting wheel to the pin hardware.

Very likely they will not go at it from the bottom due to the tap being in the way. If you are not equipped to go through and cut the hardware on the top, then let them do it for you.

Edit: If you have some LN2 laying around, we have had the shells just drop out after the exposure.

Good luck either way.

Posted: 10/22/2016 8:39:45 PM EDT

[#18]

you can try all these things and when your done and still nothing has worked it could be on it's way to RCBS.

Posted: 10/23/2016 12:27:30 AM EDT

[#19]

Thanks to everyone for the replies!

I especially appreciate the tip about using a tap: 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn out (and use oil/kroil).
Also helpful to know RCBS will replace the broken tap.

Hopefully I'll step up my lube game and have to worry about it ever again.

In the end, I took it to my LGS, which has a shop and they tried everything, including heat, etc, and it's basically time too put a fork in it.

My best bet is to send it to RCBS at this point.

I went to another LGS that has 7mm magnum ammo, and they also had RCBS dies/equipment.
Rather than spending $35 for a box of 20, I spent $36 on a new die set.

I'll be good to go for tomorrow

Posted: 10/23/2016 2:41:06 AM EDT

[#20]

Try this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vnEW63DO4Q

Posted: 10/23/2016 9:54:02 AM EDT

[#21]

Plug the holes, fill die with water and put in freezer. the brass slowly pushes out. I had to do it twice, but it pushed the brass right out.

Posted: 10/23/2016 10:54:33 AM EDT

[#22]

I got one out once by putting the die in the press, clamping vice grips on the bottom of the case & wacking the shit out of it with a hammer.

Good luck.

Posted: 10/23/2016 11:40:38 AM EDT

[#23]

Quote History

Quoted:

+1 on the freeze technique, but use a deep freeze if you have one.

If you own any other shell holders, look for the tightest one.

If that doesn't look like it will get a good purchase on the case rim, then I would hand file that rim till a smaller shell holder will grip. (I realize not everyone has small files.)

Then, first attempt would be to use the deep freezer to get the CTE difference to work in your favor. The brass has a larger CTE and cold should help reduce the jam.

Under most circumstances, this would work. If it doesn't, you should balance between sending it to their shop, or getting brutal with pounding through from the top, even if it means taking the cutting wheel to the pin hardware.

Very likely they will not go at it from the bottom due to the tap being in the way. If you are not equipped to go through and cut the hardware on the top, then let them do it for you.

Edit: If you have some LN2 laying around, we have had the shells just drop out after the exposure.

Good luck either way.

View Quote

With full respects to RegionRat:

A finer point to it:

Deep freezing it overnight causes the assembly to 'cold shrink'.

With something a little larger you'd have a chance to then quickly heat the die (faster heating makes the temp differential between the die and stuck brass greater for a moment befor the brass starts warming up). The die would expand while the brass was still shrunk.

On a different note:

When I had a case break off inside the die, I found a tap in my drawer that fit inside the die, and let me tap a few threads inside the case, whereupon I threaded a bolt into it and pulled it out by trapping washers between the bolt head and the bottom of the die.

My guess is that this is what RCBS will do if they fix it rather than scrap it, just sending you a new die.

This implies you'd cut the exposed case off and go from there.

It all depends on how desperate one is, or how much free time one has, at the moment in any given situation.

AvE video to watch on the 'tap removal' topic.

The guy is good:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uwz7BhAWZE

Posted: 10/23/2016 11:59:33 AM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:
+1 on the freeze technique, but use a deep freeze if you have one.

If you own any other shell holders, look for the tightest one.

If that doesn't look like it will get a good purchase on the case rim, then I would hand file that rim till a smaller shell holder will grip. (I realize not everyone has small files.)

Then, first attempt would be to use the deep freezer to get the CTE difference to work in your favor. The brass has a larger CTE and cold should help reduce the jam.

Good luck either way.

View Quote

I was thinking along these lines, too, except I was thinking of a hacksaw.

This part of the case is solid brass.

Hold the blade parallel to the die face and cut inwards, a little bit from both sides. You want to create two narrow slots on opposite sides, then join them with a semicircular slot. You want a shell holder to fit in there. Go only deep enough so a smaller shell holder fits the grooves you made.

In the future, use only Dillon Case Lube, Imperial Sizing Die Wax or the home made lanolin spray lube and no other.

Posted: 10/23/2016 6:21:45 PM EDT

[#25]

Get a Hornady lock ring like this:

Clamp it down tight, then stick the case head in a vise and clamp it down tight. Smash it if you have to.
Then use a wrench to turn the die and it will pop free. It is much easier to turn the die to break it free than trying to pull the case straight out.

Posted: 10/23/2016 6:31:33 PM EDT

[#26]

Quote History

Quoted:
Get a Hornady lock ring like this:
http://www.sinclairintl.com/userdocs/skus/p_749000313_1.jpg

Clamp it down tight, then stick the case head in a vise and clamp it down tight. Smash it if you have to.
Then use a wrench to turn the die and it will pop free. It is much easier to turn the die to break it free than trying to pull the case straight out.

View Quote

One stuck case was so bad that the rim ripped off.

I had enough of the case sticking out that I could use a Vice grip to grab it below the die, then I unscrewed the die from the press with a wrench. The vice grip jammed against the press and the case popped free.

Posted: 10/23/2016 7:25:56 PM EDT

[#27]

Broken tap extrctor.
You need one that matches the number of 'teeth' on the tap.

They have multiple small hardened 'fingers' that allow the tap to be removed.

Even brass needs a little bit of lube to tap and 1/2 turn forward and 1/4 turn back.
It breaks the chips so they do not become lont 'strings' and jamb in the small clearance available.

If the force in starts climbing back the tap out and clean the chips away.
Add more lube and try again.

Good thing this is not a blind hole.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Stuck case w/ broken tap in the primer hole.. now what?

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