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Posted: 9/22/2016 1:37:43 PM EDT
i am getting my stuff together to start loading 223. i did some in the past and had a case gauge,but can't find it now.
 So i need to get another one. i think the one had was a lyman. So who makes the best one?
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Posted: 9/22/2016 2:15:05 PM EDT
[#1]
I use a Lyman, there's a few popular ones. I have the Lyman 300blk gauge as well.
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Posted: 9/22/2016 3:03:42 PM EDT
[#2]
L. E. Wilson get great reviews, that's what I went with.
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Posted: 9/22/2016 3:09:22 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
L. E. Wilson get great reviews, that's what I went with. I have several of these, and several Lymans, and several Dillons. IMO the Wilsons are the best fit and finish of those 3 with the Dillons a close second. But they all do a simple task -- I trust the Lymans as much as the other two brands. |
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Posted: 9/22/2016 3:16:55 PM EDT
[#4]
Sheridan is the best.
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Posted: 9/22/2016 3:23:48 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sheridan is the best. +1 the "cutaway" versions |
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Posted: 9/22/2016 3:31:56 PM EDT
[#6]
The Dillons are stainless steel which is nice. No rusty finger prints. They get the job done.
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Posted: 9/22/2016 4:08:46 PM EDT
[#7]
I second the Dillon case gauge.
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Posted: 9/22/2016 4:17:40 PM EDT
[#8]
Drop in gages are the worst of the breed. They are better than nothing.................maybe.
Mo DeFina's micrometer headspace gage is the best IMO. RCBS's micrometer gage is second. Hornady's Lock-N-Load headspace system is the most cost effective option because you can use it on a wide range of cartridges. Buying Sinclair International bump gage inserts makes it a much better tool. Because the Mo DeFina and RCBS tools are so expensive and you have to buy a new gage for every round you load I suggest you get the Hornady tool. |
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Posted: 9/22/2016 4:58:58 PM EDT
[#9]
I like my L.E. Wilson gauges a lot. Plus they are right here in Washington.
Dillon is good. I don't like the Sheridan gauges, they are to tight. By the time I get the brass to fit the Sheridan gauge, it is way to small in my opinion. Also very expensive. While I also have the Hornady's Lock-N-Load headspace system, I like the ease of the drop in gauge for checking on the fly while making blasting ammo. Precision stuff, I use the Hornady. |
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Posted: 9/22/2016 5:14:03 PM EDT
[#10]
You don't want a case gauge, you want a headspace gauge. Headspace gauge is a much better tool. |
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Posted: 9/22/2016 5:14:35 PM EDT
[#11]
I like the Dillon, as they are designed to give you a min/max headspace and a min/max overall length.
The Sheridan was expensive and I didn't get any better read than I did with the Dillon. L.E. Wilson were alright and somewhere in the middle. I don't like the fact that my Wilson gauges rust in even the modest of humidity levels. There was a member that started playing with high end coatings but that's an added cost, when other gauges won't fall short. Since I own a milling machine, I started slotting my gauges how I saw best benefited my intended use. It's actually a pointless feature if you're not following correct die setup procedures because I hardly find myself inspecting the slot for any variation but just checking to see how much I bumped the shoulder and if I'm still in the "safe" area. |
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Posted: 9/22/2016 5:24:23 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You don't want a case gauge, you want a headspace gauge. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gauge-5-bushing-set-with-comparator <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg</a> Headspace gauge is a much better tool. You don't use the anvil, dryflash? I see you like to live dangerously! Honestly though, the Hornady headspace kit is a great tool but I often run across cases that have some deformation at the base and it can really throw off a proper read. With the case gauge, you can eyeball any minor deformation and then properly check headspace. It hard to say which tool is best and the Hornady kit does comes with a variety of different attachments to check several different calibers, unlike a case gauge that will only do one. |
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Posted: 9/22/2016 5:27:42 PM EDT
[#13]
Anvil??
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Posted: 9/22/2016 6:54:41 PM EDT
[#14]
I use a Wilson.
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Posted: 9/22/2016 7:54:50 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use a Wilson. Same. Keep it coated in earl to avoid rust prints and it works well. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 12:46:53 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anvil?? It's the bracket that mounts on the fixed side of the caliper and gives you a flush surface for the base of the case. Hornady names it on it's product page as an anvil. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 1:00:00 AM EDT
[#17]
DILLON
WILSON I store them in a zip lock with a deci-pac to keep away rust . |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 1:53:18 AM EDT
[#18]
Anvil.
With an unsized piece of machine gun brass. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 9:52:06 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anvil. http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag124/71metbu/DAVE-PC/Reloading/20160922_224924_zpsvxbrhshp.jpg With an unsized piece of machine gun brass. Why does you comparator gauge look different than mine? Thanks for posting the pic! |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 10:47:32 PM EDT
[#20]
Ours must be older, as mine did not come with an anvil. Works fine without one.
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Posted: 9/23/2016 11:18:29 PM EDT
[#21]
Mine didn't come with the anvil, bought it separately.
For me, it's just easier with my fingers the way they are. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 11:20:43 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why does you comparator gauge look different than mine? Thanks for posting the pic! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Anvil. http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag124/71metbu/DAVE-PC/Reloading/20160922_224924_zpsvxbrhshp.jpg With an unsized piece of machine gun brass. Why does you comparator gauge look different than mine? Thanks for posting the pic! Actually, I just looked at the pic. That is a bullet comparator bushing, not a case bushing. That might be way it looks different. I just went out and snapped a pic. |
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Posted: 9/24/2016 9:44:37 AM EDT
[#23]
I use a headspace gauge to set my dies and a case gauge to quick check a case periodically during resizing/trimming on .223.
I have the Innovative Technologies headspace gauge. This or the Hornady are what you want if you want to set the die accurately. For .223 I have the Lyman case gauge and it is ok. If I was starting over I would not bother with a case gauge. I don't have one for .308 or .30-06. |
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Posted: 9/24/2016 1:13:46 PM EDT
[#24]
If you must use one go with the Dillon.
It's stainless steel. I cut a window on one of mine just to see what all the hype was about. The Hornady headspace tool is far superior. 
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Posted: 9/25/2016 11:11:43 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you must use one go with the Dillon. It's stainless steel. I cut a window on one of mine just to see what all the hype was about. In order for the slot to be useful the gauge should be designed so that the diameters are to spec. A lot of the drop in case gauges are made oversized in diameters so that fired brass from any chamber will still drop in. This allows people to check that the shoulder is set back, without some other dimension causing the gauge to be misread. So you pretty much know already its going to make contact at the shoulder, and only at the shoulder. The slot doesn't give any new information. If the gauge is made to a max cartridge or min chamber spec, then brass that is too large a diameter(either on the neck or on the body) may get stuck in the gauge. And the slot will let you see if the issue is the brass length, or some diameter getting stuck. This makes even more of a difference if the gauge is designed to include the chamber and throat. |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 10:56:44 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
In order for the slot to be useful the gauge should be designed so that the diameters are to spec. A lot of the drop in case gauges are made oversized in diameters so that fired brass from any chamber will still drop in. This allows people to check that the shoulder is set back, without some other dimension causing the gauge to be misread. So you pretty much know already its going to make contact at the shoulder, and only at the shoulder. The slot doesn't give any new information. If the gauge is made to a max cartridge or min chamber spec, then brass that is too large a diameter(either on the neck or on the body) may get stuck in the gauge. And the slot will let you see if the issue is the brass length, or some diameter getting stuck. This makes even more of a difference if the gauge is designed to include the chamber and throat. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
If you must use one go with the Dillon. It's stainless steel. I cut a window on one of mine just to see what all the hype was about. In order for the slot to be useful the gauge should be designed so that the diameters are to spec. A lot of the drop in case gauges are made oversized in diameters so that fired brass from any chamber will still drop in. This allows people to check that the shoulder is set back, without some other dimension causing the gauge to be misread. So you pretty much know already its going to make contact at the shoulder, and only at the shoulder. The slot doesn't give any new information. If the gauge is made to a max cartridge or min chamber spec, then brass that is too large a diameter(either on the neck or on the body) may get stuck in the gauge. And the slot will let you see if the issue is the brass length, or some diameter getting stuck. This makes even more of a difference if the gauge is designed to include the chamber and throat. Ya, the slots a gimmick. |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 10:44:51 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You don't want a case gauge, you want a headspace gauge. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gauge-5-bushing-set-with-comparator <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg</a> Headspace gauge is a much better tool. Came to post this. If your case gauge was made by Rufus and your chamber cut by Cleatus, there's no telling if they resemble each other in critical areas, like case wall diameter, throat length, or headspace. I've never trusted a case gauge unless the smith who cut my chamber cut the gauge with the same reamer provided both to me at the same time. I use the tool you see above to determine where my chamber's headspace is, from case head to the shoulder. For the AR15, I find that setting my shoulder back .005" provides the kind of setback necessary to run reliably. For bolt guns, you can chase it closer. |
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Posted: 9/27/2016 3:17:58 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ya, the slots a gimmick. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If you must use one go with the Dillon. It's stainless steel. I cut a window on one of mine just to see what all the hype was about. In order for the slot to be useful the gauge should be designed so that the diameters are to spec. A lot of the drop in case gauges are made oversized in diameters so that fired brass from any chamber will still drop in. This allows people to check that the shoulder is set back, without some other dimension causing the gauge to be misread. So you pretty much know already its going to make contact at the shoulder, and only at the shoulder. The slot doesn't give any new information. If the gauge is made to a max cartridge or min chamber spec, then brass that is too large a diameter(either on the neck or on the body) may get stuck in the gauge. And the slot will let you see if the issue is the brass length, or some diameter getting stuck. This makes even more of a difference if the gauge is designed to include the chamber and throat. Ya, the slots a gimmick. Before you slotted the gauge, did you check the internal diameters against the chamber drawing? Slotting one that is oversized would do nothing for you, unless you are obsessed with weight reduction. A lot of people here seem to be under the impression that rifle case gauges will check the diameter of the brass. A few of them do, but many of the big name brand ones do not. The pistol caliber gauges usually are designed to chamber or cartridge diameters, but not the rifle ones. |
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Posted: 9/27/2016 1:21:08 PM EDT
[#29]
For those bashing on the gauges like the Dillon, I don't think you have quite the same requirements as others. It's not the only tool you should have, but it is useful for certain things. Case gauges like the Dillon are handy if you're mass producing ammo and just want it to be inside SAAMI headspace specs. I use it when cranking out mixed headstamp loads that'll be used in multiple guns. The mixed brass resizes differently, and I use it check that I get everything inside the min/max range. I don't check every single case, but a sampling of the different cases to get the sizing die setup. I could also do this with a comparator setup (which I have), but the Dillon gauge is a quick way to check. Interestingly enough, it's the S&B brass that usually ends up on the long side of the range, and you can feel that it's harder to resize.
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Posted: 9/27/2016 4:21:23 PM EDT
[#30]
The question is...do you really need one? I've only reloaded approx 1000 223 rounds in my life. I've reloaded around 15k pistol (I just use my barrel).
I will be changing my 223 reloading over to my Dillion in the coming months so I can crank out 223 now that I started shooting 3gun this past year. So I will have to set my dies back up, should I get a case gauge for when I set this up? I am also switching to using RCBS Small Base dies as I got them for a steal over the Lee's I have been using. |
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Posted: 9/28/2016 1:07:48 PM EDT
[#31]
Do you need one ? No. But if you want to be sure every round you just made will fit in your chamber...YES !
Unless you chamber every round in the gun or take the gun apart and check them that way, how can you be certain the rounds you made will fit ? Every round, that is. If you're going to be in competition using your reloaded ammo wouldn't you want to be absolutely sure every round you are going to use will fire when you need it to ? I know I would. I wouldn't want that nagging feeling that I may have missed something that could cost me the win. With semi-autos I use both the headspace comparator and the gauge. Why ? Because I want to know that every round I make will fit. Whether it fires or not is up to the primer and I have no control over that other than looking at them for defects and seating them right. If they fit the gauge they'll fit the gun. That's all I use them for. I don't spot check once in a while, I drop EVERY SINGLE ROUND in the gauge. I'm not even concerned if it's a little below or above the top. I know my guns and know their chambers are big enough to allow that small amount of play. What I'm more concerned about is finding that one round that isn't exactly right that we all make in every batch. And I don't even compete except against my shooting buddies. While they are dealing with a jammed gun I'm still shooting because I found that round ahead of time and got it out of my inventory. With revolvers, bolt action or lever guns you can feel when a round isn't chambering just right. We don't have that luxury with semi-autos, once you load the mag it's out of your control. |
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Posted: 9/28/2016 2:23:52 PM EDT
[#32]
Forty5Cal
Thanks I should probably just pick one up and not test fate. I check every single pistol round currently in my gun barrel. |
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Posted: 9/29/2016 8:25:08 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Forty5Cal Thanks I should probably just pick one up and not test fate. I check every single pistol round currently in my gun barrel. YW. Glad to help. Those are both great ideas. I've found that most of those ''bad'' rounds that we all make are in pistol calibers. Maybe a thicker casewall on one case or seating a bullet a little crooked or a host of other things contribute to a round that just will not chamber. The guys that spot check will find that round when it jams their gun up. I can't see why everybody doesn't do this, it's so easy. Just park your ass on the couch with the TV on and drop 'em in and out into another container by your side. You can do a hundred rounds in 2 minutes or less. I just posted in the ''What did you do today in reloading'' thread that I finished running 520 rounds of 7.62x39 ammo. Every single one of those rounds went into the gauge and I found 1 that didn't fit. It was slightly bulged at the base, it wouldn't chamber in the gun either. That 1 round would've jammed itself in the chamber, locked up the gun and I would've had to mortar the gun to get it out. I don't like banging my guns into stuff to get a defective round out. Spot checking would have taken a miracle to find that round. A Lyman or Wilson gauge are both fine for what we need them for. Get whichever one is cheaper. |
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Posted: 9/30/2016 1:45:30 AM EDT
[#34]
I will have to admit, I have the Dillon case gauge, and I picked up a RCBS precision micrometer gauge because of this thread.
It's a little slower to use, but I like the accuracy that it provides. I set up My 1050 to trim/size so it fit the Dillon gauge perfectly, then threw a few cases through the RCBS gauge, just about dead on zero. Getting plus or minus a thousandths repeatedly. I'm liking the way it works so far. |
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Posted: 9/30/2016 1:51:22 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You don't want a case gauge, you want a headspace gauge. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gauge-5-bushing-set-with-comparator <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg</a> Headspace gauge is a much better tool. +1 |
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Posted: 9/30/2016 12:22:27 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A Lyman or Wilson gauge are both fine for what we need them for. Get whichever one is cheaper. Excellent points about using the gauges as a final check. You can catch brass issues and all sorts of other issues with the reloading process. A gauge that fully mimics a chamber can help since it can check bullet seating as well as brass dimensions. For the 223, Wilson gauges are not designed to function as a chamber checker. They are pretty specific about that in their instructions. As I posted earlier, a lot of case gauges are designed to have larger diameters to accept fired cases from any chamber. For a chamber checking tool, you'd want one designed to min chamber spec, or max cartridge. |
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Posted: 9/30/2016 11:37:04 PM EDT
[#37]
Quoted:
i am getting my stuff together to start loading 223. i did some in the past and had a case gauge,but can't find it now. So i need to get another one. i think the one had was a lyman. So who makes the best one?If it fits in the JP it removes all doubt. https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPCG-223 https://www.jprifles.com/document_pdfs/JPCG223_608.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gjpf6GbQPlw The JP Precision Case Gauge is cut with a .223 Wylde chamber finishing reamer and will give a reliable check of ammunition used in rifles chambered for either the .223 Remington SAAMI specifications or the 5.56 NATO specification. |
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