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I just gotta ask........
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Originally Posted By Brassaholic13:
You're right, it shouldn't... Do you want to be the one that it does matter on? http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n420/joe1944usa/Firearms%20%20and%20%20Reloading/KABOOM/KABOOM.jpg View Quote Now there's a S1050 "Upgrade" I'd like to avoid!! Was that on a 1050?? |
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On the 1050 the inner aluminum primer tube can't come out of the magazine like that.
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"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume" |
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Originally Posted By Brassaholic13:
You're right, it shouldn't... Do you want to be the one that it does matter on? http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n420/joe1944usa/Firearms%20%20and%20%20Reloading/KABOOM/KABOOM.jpg View Quote Now I know were this is coming from. Years ago guys were buying aluminum tubing and extending the inner tubes to hold more primers. I didn't think that was such a good idea at the time either. The new style of extended primer magazine's also extend the shielding on the 1050s. So what you see in your post could not happen. Unless you were on the dark side of the moon. ;) |
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"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume" |
True ,,but the tube can't come out the top either. Like it did in your pic. Besides one would have to almost do it deliberately on a 1050 .
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"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume" |
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
True ,,but the tube can't come out the top either. Like it did in your pic. Besides one would have to almost do it deliberately on a 1050 . View Quote I've seen a lot of people do a lot of stupid things. And the energy has to go somewhere. While the tube may be retained, the energy of 'x' number of primers is not. Can we just agree that adding more primers to what has been designed is not a good idea? |
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Originally Posted By Brassaholic13:
I've seen a lot of people do a lot of stupid things. And the energy has to go somewhere. While the tube may be retained, the energy of 'x' number of primers is not. Can we just agree that adding more primers to what has been designed is not a good idea? View Quote Well it wasn't my idea in the 1st place. And we do agree, but for different reasons. I see it more as not cost effective. Since I use a RF100. I still have to fill it two times to use the extended primer mag. I don't see how that's really going to make my loading 2 hundred rounds any faster. While loading .45 with the bullet feeder going too. I could technically load two hundred rounds with out ever even running low on powder. One could install both powder and primer extensions. Even then I still don't see the cost of doing so giving them a good return of saved time in comparison to the cost of the up grade. YMMV |
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"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume" |
Originally Posted By 78Staff:
After some testing, changed things up a bit. The wireless the monitor worked OK, but would get some banding/interference sometimes, so hooked it back up to the pistol grip with direct connection and just zip-tied the whole assembly to the CF upright - picture is much nicer this way. Still have to clean up the cable routing, and would like to condense the camera cable a bit more if possible (it comes in a small coil, so I know it can we wound pretty tight), but that's just aesthetics, really. It's very stiff so doesn't move unless you want it to. Overall I'm pleased - the monitor is AC powered but also has an internal rechargeable battery that is supposed to give 2-4 hours. It also has zoom, record, save to SD card all the usual stuff. The image is also clearer than the pic below, must be due to cell phone camera and monitor freq that makes it appear grainy in the image. The camera/led lights run of 4 AA's in the handle, which I was unaware of when I ordered, but i have plenty of rechargeable eneloops around and they work fine. Once I get the camera cable routing down, I can improve the angle a bit, but even now it's easy to see powder in the case. Anyway, for $60, I like it. Sure it's more than a cheap andorid/iphone bore-scope cable but you don't have to provide a phone or tablet, and it's pretty much ready to go out of the box, unlike the "backup camera" setups, plus it's a pretty tidy setup once you get the cables routed and organized. http://AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/385949/20161204-201031-01-100061.jpg http://AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/385949/20161204-201039-100056.jpg View Quote So I've been thinking about your camera mod. I've seen several different variations of this, including one it's here in the reloading forum from years ago. I think GWhis did it. I was cruising around YouTube the other day, and I found this one. DIY Dillon Super 1050 Powder Camera I ordered the parts and they came in yesterday. If I can get up to it, I'm in a go out and try to put it together. I need to look into if there is a way to get rid of the backup screen. I think that might be my only problem with it. I guess I need to do some googling. |
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I just gotta ask........
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I was able to get a 10 lb 1911 spring locally, cut it in half and installed it. It really does make a difference, liking it so far.
On another note, popped my first ever primer yesterday. I had some feeding problems with the Wolf LRP, had to loosen the plate at the priming station to clear a primer. Got going again to see if it was letting the press cycle, and one case came out of place slightly, and BANG. Pinched it and popped it. Quite a surprise let me tell you. Going out to look today, last night I called it quits at that point. I think I need to replace the red plastic feeder tip. |
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I just gotta ask........
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What's everyone's opinion of removing the primer actuator rod, long ratchet plate on the back of the tool head and the bolt the holds the ratchet plate (which also operases the primer shuttle actuator plate), for Brass Prep Toolheads?
I apologize for not having the exact Dillon Description of these parts, but I'm not home, with access to the manuals, and using my phone right now. |
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Originally Posted By NH_Patriot:
What's everyone's opinion of removing the primer actuator rod, long ratchet plate on the back of the tool head and the bolt the holds the ratchet plate (which also operases the primer shuttle actuator plate), for Brass Prep Toolheads? I apologize for not having the exact Dillon Description of these parts, but I'm not home, with access to the manuals, and using my phone right now. View Quote I do it. Also remove the primer slide as well. No use wearing out parts that are not needed, or can get in the way. My processing tool head has the primer actuator rod permanently removed. |
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I just gotta ask........
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So, my .223 1050 is running like a top, and now my biggest ass ache is the occasional primer that does not get inserted, which is followed by a trail of powder from the powder station, through the powder check and up to the seating station.
Does anyone know what causes this and has anyone ever thought about drilling a hole in the press at the powder drop station and using a camera looking up through the hole at the primer pocket as a primer check, which would allow you to see an empty pocket and remove the case BEFORE filling it with powder? Ive seen threads where guys are modifying these small cameras to look at the powder in pistol cases on 650s. Those are the cameras I'm talking about. |
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Originally Posted By NH_Patriot:
So, my .223 1050 is running like a top, and now my biggest ass ache is the occasional primer that does not get inserted, which is followed by a trail of powder from the powder station, through the powder check and up to the seating station. Does anyone know what causes this and has anyone ever thought about drilling a hole in the press at the powder drop station and using a camera looking up through the hole at the primer pocket as a primer check, which would allow you to see an empty pocket and remove the case BEFORE filling it with powder? Ive seen threads where guys are modifying these small cameras to look at the powder in pistol cases on 650s. Those are the cameras I'm talking about. View Quote Don't waste time drilling and putting camera in... just read this thread below. Focus on the comments about the primer slide vacuum line tube and the white piece that keeps the case in position. Both solved all my problems. Good luck! old thread. |
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Thoughts on reloading on the GSI 1050 toolhead?
GSI Website Reason I ask... it's cheaper than Dillon toolheads. |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Thoughts on reloading on the GSI 1050 toolhead? GSI Website Reason I ask... it's cheaper than Dillon toolheads. View Quote It's probably at least machined straight. I've come across a number of Dillon tool heads where the die holes aren't square. |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Thoughts on reloading on the GSI 1050 toolhead? GSI Website Reason I ask... it's cheaper than Dillon toolheads. View Quote I thought I read on another forum that the GSI Toolheads were for Brass Prep only and not for loading. I'm not sure why, but I vaguely remember this because I had the same idea. |
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Originally Posted By NH_Patriot:
I thought I read on another forum that the GSI Toolheads were for Brass Prep only and not for loading. I'm not sure why, but I vaguely remember this because I had the same idea. View Quote The 300 toolhead is also much less than their "normal" 1050 milled toolhead for their bullet feeder, which is $360+ IIRC... |
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NRA Life Member USN Retired |
Originally Posted By 78Staff:
The 300 toolhead is also much less than their "normal" 1050 milled toolhead for their bullet feeder, which is $360+ IIRC... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Originally Posted By NH_Patriot:
I thought I read on another forum that the GSI Toolheads were for Brass Prep only and not for loading. I'm not sure why, but I vaguely remember this because I had the same idea. The 300 toolhead is also much less than their "normal" 1050 milled toolhead for their bullet feeder, which is $360+ IIRC... That bullet feeder toolhead is sold to people buying their bullet feeder.. I suspect that is mostly just dealers. there is a lot more to it too. I dont suspect it is sold in enough quantities to make it cheap enough. I believe the trim toolhead is probably both easier to make and has a wider purchasing audience... I have their 550 version. The tube vacuum connection is removable. I believe the position of the 1050 one is where you would use either bullet feeder or powder check. Both of which dont care about a hole in back. I sent them an email about it. I will post back their reply. If you guys see anything specific about why it cant be, let me know. I am tired of swapping dies on certain calibers that we go through so quick...223, 45, 9... Funny thing is the Dillon price is not much more at Grafs dealer site but they are OOS. I suspect prices are going up tomorrow. Graf's doesnt honor current pricing for backorders which is basically the only bad thing I have ever said about them. So, I guess that is a good thing. |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Funny thing is the Dillon price is not much more at Grafs dealer site but they are OOS. I suspect prices are going up tomorrow. Graf's doesnt honor current pricing for backorders which is basically the only bad thing I have ever said about them. So, I guess that is a good thing. View Quote Is the price increase from Dillon, or Graf's? I though I heard someone else talking about a price increase for Dillon recently, now that you mention it. |
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NRA Life Member USN Retired |
Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Is the price increase from Dillon, or Graf's? I though I heard someone else talking about a price increase for Dillon recently, now that you mention it. View Quote Every year Dillon (and most) other vendors increase their prices. All that inflation... Funny I have not seen any increase in salary to compensate. |
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Food for though for guys running the PW auto drives,
And yes, most of these ideals have been borrowed/stolen from others designs. 1. Feed sorter jam sensor. Granted that is does not need to be wired into the motor to kill it if you have a problem, but at least wire it into the contact switch so if you get a jam in the sorter section, the hopper will not keep running to just spray brass all over the machine and bench, or bad enough to jam the plate and kill the motor instead. Note, still trying to come up with a sensor design that will stop the plate if the jam is in the hopper itself (not later in the sorter), isntead of the motor burning out due that kind of jam. Also, would like to come up with a optice sensor for the primer slide as well. That way, if the primer slider fails to pick up a primer from the tube, it shuts the machine down, isntead of dropping powder into a primerless case(s) and just making a mess instead. [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2r-eZY_BdE[/youtube] 2. Case sensor at the bottom of the case drop tube. Here, even if the hopper sort jams up and does not turn back on, the machine will still run the cases in the tube before it shuts the drive off so the machine is not just cycling dry until you get around to turning it off isntead. There are a couple of ways of doing this, such at just mimicking the mr bullet type contact for the bullet tube at the bottom of the case feed tube, or you can just install a small optic or proximity sensor on top of the case feeder ram plate instead. Note, if you wire in a toggle switch for this contact switch (or just unplug it), you can just turn the sensor off, and it will allow you to reload the rest of the cases in the machine to run the machine dry. 3. Since I run a Hornady sizer with collet retained decapping pin, then I run a contact switch over the top of the pin isntead. If the decapper runs into problems, then it will shove the decapping pin up to engage the contact switch an shut off the drive. If you want to go high tech instead, then your into the Mk 7 spent primer detector instead. 4. Ringer detection at the swager. Here, my top swage support tool is a collet type rod like the Hornady sizer die, and if the swager runs into a ringer, or even a primer hanger that is still in the pocket, it will shove the top tool rod up against a contact switch to kill the motor. If you want to go high tech, then think in the lines of the Mk7 ringer detector instead. 5. Low primer tube detector. Lets face it, the machine already comes with a system, so it just a mater of picking up the contacts in it, and tying it back into the motor. 6. Low powder in the powder dispenser. Dillon already sells one of these that you can use for the contact points, or you can just make one up of your own instead. 7, Powder check sensor, and again, Dillon already makes one of these that you can use the contacts to kill the motor, or you can make one of your own. 8. Bullet feed sensor, and the easy way to do this is to just install a second contact switch into the lower section of the drop tube. Hence the top drop tube contact sensor is used to control the bullet feed hopper, and if the hopper goes dry, then you want to kill the motor before you loose too much weight on the bullet drop tube assembly (before the lower tube gets low of bullets),and its not weight driving the last bullets correctly into the cases instead. Now since we are just using standard contacts, all this is a snap to wire to kill the motor if any of the sensors goes off. Using a standard 30amp SPST latching relay, your going to wire the motor through NC section of the relay, and via a standard 12V wall wart, your going to wire all the sensors through it to the coil side of the relay. Hence any of the contacts trigger, it will energize the relay to latch it the other way and kill power to the motor. To reset the relay after you have correct the problem, just reverse the current through the lathe with a push button switch to reset the relay back into motor working state again. If you really want to get fancy, then you can make a block with LEDS that are wired after the contacts as well a toggle switch to turn each contact off indepently, and will tell you just which contact triggered to shut the motor off. Also to point out, the PW system does have clutch system in it, and if it set correctly, will save the motor from crashes if the drive continues to run (have not wired in a over load circuit into the drive system to stop the drive that was during a crash isntead). As for the PW drive, it does have one thing going for it over just cost alone with simple contact sensors, and that is the normal ramp down speeds of the arm system at the top and bottom of the stroke. The motor is only running at 900rpm,and if you are just reloading pistol, you can make the motor run faster isntead. I bring this up, since even with a Mk7 pro running top speeds, by the time you adjust the index and bottom of stroke to keep from making a mess with say rifle cases, the reload speed has dropped way down instead. [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQXUpX6Lo38[/youtube] And before anyone thinks that I'm slamming the Mk7, I'm not since its a great system for someone wanting a store bought solution instead (at the tune of about 3K with all the sensors in play). I love the electric clutch system on machine, and in fact so much, If it will stop a 650 from blowing up a primer on a bad insert to take the primer assembly out, may even pick up a 650 and run a Mk7 pro drive on it. Hell, even if I can not add in my standard sensor to the software systems main controller to get feedback on the screen to tell me the actual problem of why the drive stopped from one of my added sensors, I can still tie my own sensors into items like the low primer sensor to stop the motor that way isntead. Right up front with a Mk7pro drive and 650, your saving about $2 grand over Mk7 and 1050 to begin with, and then think of the cost savings on tool heads and conversion kits as well. But again, the reason that you don't normally run an auto drive on a 650, is because it's too easy to blow a primer assembly up on that machine (even when cycling it by hand). So if Mk7 electric clutch is sensitive enough to detect a primer feed problem into the case pocket and stop the machine before it blows a primer (chain reaction through the system to blow the primers in the tube as well), may be the solution that is needed to be able to run a 650 full auto with an auto drive instead. |
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Posted By PlaymoreMinds:
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds... <---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind. |
I set up the S1050 to run all my .45 brass through it.
Set up the swager with the LP backer rod, and the FF&B large swage rod, and pulled the pin out of station 3. Ran a hair tie from station #2 pin, to the cover sticking out of station #4, that held the case in position in station#3 for the swage rod. Put the handle in all the way and just ran it with a light touch, and I could detect the SPP .45 cases and pull them out and let the LLP cases continue on through. Pretty slick, compared to grabbing and visually sorting all those cases manually. I love casefeeders. |
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I just gotta ask........
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Originally Posted By Dano523:
Note, still trying to come up with a sensor design that will stop the plate if the jam is in the hopper itself (not later in the sorter), instead of the motor burning out due that kind of jam. Also, would like to come up with a optical sensor for the primer slide as well. That way, if the primer slider fails to pick up a primer from the tube, it shuts the machine down, instead of dropping powder into a primerless case(s) and just making a mess instead. View Quote The easiest way to do both would be to use a micocontroller with a couple retro-reflective sensors and reflectors. Total cost would be $50-$200 depending if you went with new brand name sensors or ebay specials. For the case feeder you could drill a hole in the feed plate and mount a reflector under the hole. The sensor would detect the reflection as the hole passes over the reflector. The microcontroller would be programed to look for a "blink" and reset a timer. Lets say the hole passes over the reflector every 6 seconds, the timer would be set for 10 seconds. If there's no "blink" after 10 seconds, the timer reaches zero and the microcontroller cuts the signal to a relay and shuts the motor down. The primer slide would work a similar way. Mount a reflector under the slide with a sensor that looks through the primer hole where the white plastic plate is mounted. In this case if the sensor ever sees a "blink" (missing primer, can see the reflector) the microcontroller relay shuts the press down. One microcontroller can easily do both circuits, but you'll need to learn some programming to set the system up. You'd also have to set them up in a way that nothing shiny (brass or primer slide/primers) interferes with the reflections. This is the way most of our hoppers at work are set up and other rotating assemblies. If they don't see a reflection every so many seconds on shafts or through sight holes the machine knows there's a problem and shuts down. I'm almost done with my autodrive, it's a close copy of a PW but uses a 3 phase motor with gearbox and VFD so I can adjust it from 0-3600 rounds an hour with a remote potentiometer to make it faster for brass processing and pistol loading, but slower for rifle loading. When I do my sensor setup after it's running I may try the primer slide sensor, I don't plan to be out of the room while it runs so I don't think I'll do the case hopper sensor, just keep the slip clutch setup. |
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Awesome work and ideas... I wish I had the time. Funny thing... I work as an electrical engineer. I know how to do all that stuff but just dont have the time.
That's why I love the fact there are good people like those at Mark 7 making packaged products just for me. I went ahead and ordered the LTE version before xmas but called today to upgrade to X. I didnt realize the LTE was lacking in some software features that really look cool. Yes, it is going to cost some money, but saves me time and allows me to load more. Only live once! BTW, Happy New Year to all you 1050 owners! Your tips and help have been great. Loaded up 1k 45acp rounds last night. Primer system is fantastic with all the tips I learned on the forum. |
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Originally Posted By wil-N-VA:
The easiest way to do both would be to use a micocontroller with a couple retro-reflective sensors and reflectors. Total cost would be $50-$200 depending if you went with new brand name sensors or ebay specials. For the case feeder you could drill a hole in the feed plate and mount a reflector under the hole. The sensor would detect the reflection as the hole passes over the reflector. The microcontroller would be programed to look for a "blink" and reset a timer. Lets say the hole passes over the reflector every 6 seconds, the timer would be set for 10 seconds. If there's no "blink" after 10 seconds, the timer reaches zero and the microcontroller cuts the signal to a relay and shuts the motor down. The primer slide would work a similar way. Mount a reflector under the slide with a sensor that looks through the primer hole where the white plastic plate is mounted. In this case if the sensor ever sees a "blink" (missing primer, can see the reflector) the microcontroller relay shuts the press down. One microcontroller can easily do both circuits, but you'll need to learn some programming to set the system up. You'd also have to set them up in a way that nothing shiny (brass or primer slide/primers) interferes with the reflections. This is the way most of our hoppers at work are set up and other rotating assemblies. If they don't see a reflection every so many seconds on shafts or through sight holes the machine knows there's a problem and shuts down. I'm almost done with my autodrive, it's a close copy of a PW but uses a 3 phase motor with gearbox and VFD so I can adjust it from 0-3600 rounds an hour with a remote potentiometer to make it faster for brass processing and pistol loading, but slower for rifle loading. When I do my sensor setup after it's running I may try the primer slide sensor, I don't plan to be out of the room while it runs so I don't think I'll do the case hopper sensor, just keep the slip clutch setup. View Quote 3600 rpm whhooo, you might need a new case feeder for that beast. The OEM Dillon feeder will never even come close to keeping up with that. As for all these sensors. I can see them when used as QC checks. Seems no matter how many sensors you can mount to a 1050 . None of them will take the place of a well tuned press. |
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"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume" |
Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Is the price increase from Dillon, or Graf's? I though I heard someone else talking about a price increase for Dillon recently, now that you mention it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Originally Posted By djryan13:
Funny thing is the Dillon price is not much more at Grafs dealer site but they are OOS. I suspect prices are going up tomorrow. Graf's doesnt honor current pricing for backorders which is basically the only bad thing I have ever said about them. So, I guess that is a good thing. Is the price increase from Dillon, or Graf's? I though I heard someone else talking about a price increase for Dillon recently, now that you mention it. Apparently Graf's got a couple huge pallets of Dillon stuff right before the new year but it wasn't logged into their ite. I backordered a bunch of heads and stuff thinking I would be paying more in 2017... BUT turns out, all of it IS in stock. SO, I guess I won't be trying the GSI toolhead out after all. Although it would be nice to try since the last 1050 toolhead I got from Dillon was out of spec. Had to have them replace it. |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Apparently Graf's got a couple huge pallets of Dillon stuff right before the new year but it wasn't logged into their ite. I backordered a bunch of heads and stuff thinking I would be paying more in 2017... BUT turns out, all of it IS in stock. SO, I guess I won't be trying the GSI toolhead out after all. Although it would be nice to try since the last 1050 toolhead I got from Dillon was out of spec. Had to have them replace it. View Quote Picked up a short trim toolhead...don't actually need it at the moment, but I did need another toohead and Dillon says you can do normal 223 work with it as well, not just 300BO, 6.8, etc, so I'll use it for 223 prep and I'll have it if I start doing anything that needs the short trim toolhead down the road. |
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NRA Life Member USN Retired |
Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Picked up a short trim toolhead...don't actually need it at the moment, but I did need another toohead and Dillon says you can do normal 223 work with it as well, not just 300BO, 6.8, etc, so I'll use it for 223 prep and I'll have it if I start doing anything that needs the short trim toolhead down the road. View Quote Gosh, I actually used it last time to size/trim 308... I was in a rush to make rnds for 1919. I didnt notice any issues. |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Gosh, I actually used it last time to size/trim 308... I was in a rush to make rnds for 1919. I didnt notice any issues. View Quote yeah that's the beauty of it, since it will work with regular length cartridges also, figured I would grab it since I needed a toolhead anyway. Down the road if I start loading 300bo or whatever I've already got a toolhead that works for the short ones. ;). |
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NRA Life Member USN Retired |
I use mine as a dedicated trim/sizing/de-capping/swaging toolhead. I have loaded with it as well, didn't notice any difference.
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I just gotta ask........
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
I use mine as a dedicated trim/sizing/de-capping/swaging toolhead. I have loaded with it as well, didn't notice any difference. View Quote Good to hear you are not seeing issues with it. I haven't either. I like using it for trimming (all calibers) because there is just more room to get that stupid vacuum attachment on the die. |
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NRA Life Member USN Retired |
Originally Posted By djryan13:
My 5 new toolheads (yes 5... sigh...) showed up yesterday. Needed to put them somewhere... I am in a pretty tight work area. built this out of 3/4" PCV. Heavily glued and since I had a can around, filled it with hard spray foam for more flexibility and strength (maybe?). The toolheads rest on a 3/4" to 1" bushing (forget exact name - I will look it up later and edit). Painted blue of course... http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p727/djryan13/Reloading/8080877B-3EDF-4A01-B396-A87CA3374ECB_zps6tx0fv2a.jpg View Quote That came out nice, great idea and the blue to top it off. |
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PSALMS 144-1 Blessed be the Lord my strength, which teacheth my hands to warre, and my fingers to fight:
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Thanks.. debated adding a 4th level but I don't believe I will be adding that many toolheads to collection.
I was happy with how easy and cheap it was. I had picked up a bunch of black pipe fittings but realized this would be much cheaper and easier. Those black pipe fittings are going back to Home Depot. I had the glues and PVC cleaner from a laundry room job so no reason to let them go to waste... Think the glue is the most expensive item. |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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That's a beautiful storage rack djryan13.
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
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Got the Mark 7 installed tonight.
Wow.. that thing is fantastic. I left about 100 cases of 45acp left from last weeks run. Went through them super quick. Will post pics in a couple weeks. Unfortunately, I am in the middle of house renovation... I had to sneak the install in before wife got home so she didn't think I was "playing". |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Got the Mark 7 installed tonight. Wow.. that thing is fantastic. I left about 100 cases of 45acp left from last weeks run. Went through them super quick. Will post pics in a couple weeks. Unfortunately, I am in the middle of house renovation... I had to sneak the install in before wife got home so she didn't think I was "playing". View Quote Just teasing us, huh. Really the last thing I need is Mark 7, but I just be so cool. |
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I just gotta ask........
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I had the opportunity to buy another 1050 with a PW auto drive last week. $1800.00 for both. If I was 10 years younger it would have had a new home.
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"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume" |
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
I had the opportunity to buy another 1050 with a PW auto drive last week. $1800.00 for both. If I was 10 years younger it would have had a new home. View Quote Wow, good deal. I have a S1050 coming in, it's setup for 6.8spc which I don't shoot but will convert it to .223. I'm trading my Elcan SpecterDR for it. |
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PSALMS 144-1 Blessed be the Lord my strength, which teacheth my hands to warre, and my fingers to fight:
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
I finally took the time set up the Excel calibration curve for my UniqueTek micrometer powder bar. To me it's just a huge pain in the ass having to readjust the powder die once you get it set just right. Didn't want to go through all the rigmarole of trying to do it on the press, so I grabbed an extra powder die and put it in my Lee single stage. It actually works so well that I think I'm going to try to make a bracket for the failsafe rod to mount to. It might be a good way to charge cases. http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/327759/20170120-232758-130316.jpg This is going to be my small rifle powder drop, and I'm about to try to run some 300 Blackout, so I decided to get it set it up Lil' Gun. You have to make 3 drops set at 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. With the Lil' Gun I couldn't believe how consistently it dropped. Once I had the calibration done I moved the micrometer setting up down and around, and was very surprised how accurate it was compared to the calibration curve. I think this thing going to be really slick when I'm using H335. View Quote Those seem so expensive but I guess that can really save you time. Can it be locked in place or does it stay put? The micrometers on the Hornady measure are crap. Easily spin (especially since they swing up and down quickly). I had to keep it in place with duct tape. It was also hard to read. How is this one? |
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Did my first S1050 upgrade. I got tired of shining a light into the case to see if there is powder so I bought the same inspection camera that 78Staff showed a page earlier. I must say it is awesome for the price and piece of mind.
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PSALMS 144-1 Blessed be the Lord my strength, which teacheth my hands to warre, and my fingers to fight:
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Those seem so expensive but I guess that can really save you time. Can it be locked in place or does it stay put? The micrometers on the Hornady measure are crap. Easily spin (especially since they swing up and down quickly). I had to keep it in place with duct tape. It was also hard to read. How is this one? View Quote Trey one, I do not think You will be disappointed. You do need to take the time to map out the curve with the powder first. I just set up a powder die in the Lee Classic and operated the safety bar by hand, really easy. |
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I just gotta ask........
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
Just teasing us, huh. Really the last thing I need is Mark 7, but I just be so cool. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
Originally Posted By djryan13:
Got the Mark 7 installed tonight. Wow.. that thing is fantastic. I left about 100 cases of 45acp left from last weeks run. Went through them super quick. Will post pics in a couple weeks. Unfortunately, I am in the middle of house renovation... I had to sneak the install in before wife got home so she didn't think I was "playing". Just teasing us, huh. Really the last thing I need is Mark 7, but I just be so cool. Created a seperate thread for review. I really love it... nothing like a PW. Its a shame when companies like PW come out with a product but dont change with the times. Mark 7 Review |
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