What is the material?

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - What is the material?

Posted: 7/29/2016 11:56:20 AM EDT

I have a Dillon 9mm carbide die set. Does anybody know what material the powder drop is made from? Is the portion that flares the case chrome plated and polished? How would you polish it? And for the why: the powder drop has "lines" I can feel and it's getting stuck in the case, causing me to have to put pressure on the handle upwards to release the powder drop from the case. Here's the best pic I could get last night.

Posted: 7/29/2016 12:29:14 PM EDT

[#1]

Off the wall, maybe leave sit on small container of ammonia, wire wheel,, and then spin and polish with some 1500 / 2000 wet-dry paper ?

Posted: 7/29/2016 1:16:59 PM EDT

[#2]

I just got a 550 and have been loading 9mm I too have cases get stuck on the flaring part and need to force them off. I don't have lines on mine like you do but I did think about trying to polish it. So far I have found that if after 5 cases if I wipe it quickly with just my fingers it helps to reduce or stop the issue. I'm guessing it's either dirt collecting and I'm clearing it or the slight oils from my hands offer just enough lubrication to help it out? Haven't gone into researching it yet. Good to know I'm not the only one seeing this.

Posted: 7/29/2016 2:24:14 PM EDT

[#3]

Brass builds up, take some copper solvent and clean it up.
3M scrub pads work good with some copper solvent.
Another thing that causes dragging is virgin brass and wet cleaned brass either ultrasonic or SS pins gets the brass to clean....

Posted: 7/29/2016 2:59:03 PM EDT

[#4]

Normal.

As mentioned its brass build up that most often shows up from wet cleaned or new brass cases.

Dillons powder funnels can be cleaned up much better than they come from Dillon.

There are many ways to do it, I used my lathe and wet/dry sandpaper progressively increasing grit count to a achieve a mirror like finish.

I did all my powder funnels and I have no more issues with drag or build up with new or wet tumbled brass cases.

Posted: 7/29/2016 4:01:45 PM EDT

[#5]

Thanks guys. I'll try the scotchbrite/copper remover and then fine grit sandpaper if I need to go that far.

Posted: 7/29/2016 5:23:57 PM EDT

[#6]

600 grit is all you need. There is no need for finer. 600 with some light oil will produce a finish of 4AA or less.

You have to be careful with Scotchbrite there are different grits. The red will actually make a rougher surface 600 grit paper.

I do agree its probably does not need polished though. It's very likely just brass "bugs" stuck to it like the post above suggested.

Motor

Posted: 7/29/2016 10:51:26 PM EDT

[#7]

I chucked my Dillon funnels in a hand drill. Then I used a piece of old jeans smothered in Flitz metal polish.

Only took a few minutes. Mirror smooth now.

Posted: 7/30/2016 7:30:14 AM EDT

[#8]

+1 stick it in a drill and use flitz

use a dab of imperial sizing wax.

are you wet tumbling your brass?

Posted: 7/30/2016 7:39:24 AM EDT

[#9]

You must use a wet tumbler.
They get cases too clean.

If you run the brass through a vibratory tumbler with polish or wax, it helps keep cases from sticking.

Posted: 7/30/2016 7:40:49 AM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
Off the wall, maybe leave sit on small container of ammonia, wire wheel,, and then spin and polish with some 1500 / 2000 wet-dry paper ?

View Quote

NO AMMONIA!

That is hardened and ground steel!

1) Toothpaste (Every home has some)

2) DuPont Polishing Compound

3) Baking Soda

4) Craytex (Super Fine)

5) Jeweler's rouge

6) Simi Chrome Paste Polish

Posted: 7/31/2016 7:42:10 PM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:

+1 stick it in a drill and use flitz

use a dab of imperial sizing wax.

are you wet tumbling your brass?

View Quote

Wet tumble, yes. Love it!

Am I loving it too much?

Posted: 7/31/2016 9:15:17 PM EDT

[#12]

Thanks again guys. I'm really curious about the toothpaste option mentioned earlier. I may try that.

My uncle has a body shop and three different "grits" of scotch brite. I was planning on using the least aggressive but didn't catch him at the shop Friday or Saturday, so no mas there. I'll give the AAR when I get this done.

Posted: 7/31/2016 11:19:12 PM EDT

[#13]

Nickel cases too perhaps? Wet tumbling nickel cases leaves the insides of the case as rough as 100 grit sandpaper, actually, they start out that rough. Don't make your powder funnel too smooth or you'll increase the stickiness, not relieve it. A quick scrub with white Scotchbrite may be all you need.

Posted: 8/1/2016 4:35:35 PM EDT

[#14]

Quote History

Quoted:
Thanks again guys. I'm really curious about the toothpaste option mentioned earlier. I may try that.

My uncle has a body shop and three different "grits" of scotch brite. I was planning on using the least aggressive but didn't catch him at the shop Friday or Saturday, so no mas there. I'll give the AAR when I get this done.

View Quote

Scotch-Brite is available with different abrasive loads and no abrasive at all.

Posted: 8/1/2016 11:48:02 PM EDT

[#15]

AAR:

I reverted back to my training (MCRD, San Deigo)

Picked up some Never Dull and chucked the powder drop into the mill and gave it a spin. It took little bit, but all the marks are gone and she's nice and shiny now.

I'll see if I have any issues with it now and may try Flitz and blue jean combination or the toothpaste.

Thanks all.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - What is the material?

Armory » Reloading

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