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Posted: 7/28/2016 10:37:46 PM EDT
I made a 1/8 scale model of a reloading bench I want to build.   The work bench in the middle will be adjustable between a sitting and a standing work height (which explains the gap at the bottom of the peg board but I have a solution for closing that up).  



But, playing with this model, I realize the whole thing is totally unstable front to back; it'll hinge on the lag bolts and just lean forward.  Will simply adding braces like this fix the problem?  It's all 2 x 4 construction.



Size and shape are dictated by the need to fit into this alcove in my spare room.

Link Posted: 7/28/2016 10:45:17 PM EDT
[#1]
Why not build it in place and fix the height as to what is comfortable standing.

You want the height to be such that your arm is almost extended with the press handle all the way down.

This height will allow you to stand and reload or sit on a bar stool.

I use the Inline Fabrication Ergo handle on my press. I am 6'3" tall and my bench is at 39" off the floor.
Link Posted: 7/28/2016 10:52:19 PM EDT
[#2]
Ah hahahaha, You my friend are thorough. The only thing is to make sure the thing is extremely rigid. Tie into the wall if possible! Then none of this will matter.
Link Posted: 7/28/2016 11:16:00 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Ah hahahaha, You my friend are thorough. The only thing is to make sure the thing is extremely rigid. Tie into the wall if possible! Then none of this will matter.
View Quote


Just don't want to waste a bunch of wood working through things.  Foam core is a lot cheaper than lumber.
Link Posted: 7/28/2016 11:35:25 PM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 12:00:33 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I like you mock up.
One suggestion I would make is ditch the pegboard.



Use that space for shelf's to store bullets and other stuff.


<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Bench/IMG_0314.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Bench/IMG_0314.jpg</a>


My bench.
 
View Quote


I agree. The pegboard mocks up nicely but in real life shelves and drawers combined with plastic bins and a small parts container are much more useful. Interesting concept though with the adjustable height.
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 1:48:31 AM EDT
[#7]
It will also rock side-to-side.  Use another diagonal brace across the back to prevent "racking".

You could just lag it into the studs of the wall and need neither brace.
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 8:04:14 AM EDT
[#8]
Something that small will have to be secured to the walls.

While sizing large rifle cases is when you'll find the design flaws.

Nice work, BTW.
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 8:30:30 AM EDT
[#9]
You could add plywood sides and back to the lower portion. It would be more effective than just a diagonal brace.
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 9:25:42 AM EDT
[#10]
Models are all well and good but at some point you have to build it and try it out to really know .

You will need to bolt it to the wall
Can't have too much light
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 10:13:20 AM EDT
[#11]
Awesome mock up.  But if I had to use that space to reload, I would build it into the space.  A loading bench needs to be solid first.  If you really want height adjustment design some track style adjustment into the wall.

And consider a dedicated, solid shelf for the powder measure.

But if you really want your design to work, you will have to secure it to the wall somehow.
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 10:20:40 AM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 10:21:22 AM EDT
[#13]
I don't like your plans at all.  They make me sad.

What is the platform at the bottom for?  It looks too small to place a stool on without fear of falling off.  Standing up will also be a problem, as there is not enough room to stand.

You don't need a platform at all, ditch it, stand or sit on the perfectly good floor that is there.

Adjustable height table top will likely be rickety and overly complex.  Ditch it and anchor the bench to the studs for rock solid stability.

The legs extending above the work surface...ditch them, especially the ones in the front.  They diminish your already small work surface and won't be needed when the tabletop is fixed.

Mount a couple of sturdy shelves above the work surface for storage.

I would lag 2x4s to the sides and back of the alcove, cut a top from butcher block counter material or doubled up 3/4" plywood and screw it down.  Dead simple, no legs, no base, no obstructions, cheap and easy.
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 10:29:54 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
You could add plywood sides and back to the lower portion. It would be more effective than just a diagonal brace.
View Quote



+1

Most people dont realize how important external home sheathing is in stability of home. People put additions on homes (including mine) turning formerly external walls into internal walls and they wonder why their new drywall cracks no matter how many cross pieces they put inside wall.

I had to rip out the wallboard and put plywood back on. Not a crack since.

Basically the same principle with this bench.

OP, I am not sure I understand what the roof is for? Planning to hang something?
Link Posted: 7/29/2016 10:32:28 AM EDT
[#15]
I take no offense to your comments.  However, allow me to explain:
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I don't like your plans at all.  They make me sad.

What is the platform at the bottom for?  It looks too small to place a stool on without fear of falling off.  Standing up will also be a problem, as there is not enough room to stand.

I was thinking that the platform could store my range box and ammo cans and that stuff would help weigh down the bench; the reason it sticks out is because I thought it might help keep the bench from wanting to tip forward when the press handle was pulled.

You don't need a platform at all, ditch it, stand or sit on the perfectly good floor that is there.

Adjustable height table top will likely be rickety and overly complex.  Ditch it and anchor the bench to the studs for rock solid stability.

The legs extending above the work surface...ditch them, especially the ones in the front.  They diminish your already small work surface and won't be needed when the tabletop is fixed.

They hold up the peg board and the top shelf on which I was going to put stuff on top and put a 24" fluorescent fixture in the underside.

Mount a couple of sturdy shelves above the work surface for storage.

I would lag 2x4s to the sides and back of the alcove, cut a top from butcher block counter material or doubled up 3/4" plywood and screw it down.  Dead simple, no legs, no base, no obstructions, cheap and easy.
View Quote


I was hoping that I wouldn't have to put any holes in the walls but I guess, in the long run, it'll be cheaper, better, and easier to build it as you and others are suggesting.  Patching a few plaster holes a few years down the road will be less hassle than building this thing anyway.

Thanks everybody.


Link Posted: 7/29/2016 11:43:11 PM EDT
[#16]
Good luck man, you'll figure something out.  Reloading is great.
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