die setup for Hornady LNL AP press loading 40sw - Page 1

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - die setup for Hornady LNL AP press loading 40sw

Posted: 7/26/2016 3:20:49 PM EDT

Hello,

Just bought the Hornady LNL AP press. Now I'm researching about the die setup. By far, I have narrowed down to two plans based on the Hornady 3 die setup plus RCBS powder lockout die. LNL AP users, please give me some recommendations about which to go and why?

Plan ONE:
1. Size and deprime,
2. Flare
3. Hornady powder charge
4. RCBS powder lockout die,
5. Seat and crimp
I am concerned about the seat and crimp not being consistent. From my experience loading 223 on Redding T7 press, the seating doesn't work that good when crimping happens on the same die. But, that was trying to reload precision 223 rounds.

Plan TWO:
1. Size and deprime.
2. Powder charge through flare die
3. RCBS powder lockout die.
4. seat
5. crimp
My concern about this is that the case activated powder measure through the flare die is going to be somewhat more complicated to setup and adjust.

Last question is about the lube and sizing.
Do you decap separately then tumble clean prior to sizing?
Before sizing, do you lube the 40sw case at all? If you lube, do you clean it after sizing?
Thank you for the help and have a good day.

Posted: 7/26/2016 3:31:42 PM EDT

[#1]

On my LNL AP for 9mm .40 and .45.
1: Size and decap then push to prime
2: Flare
3: Powder throw
4: Powder cop
5: seat and crimp

I don't lube straight wall pistol cases at all

Posted: 7/26/2016 5:20:46 PM EDT

[#2]

Quoted:
Hello,

Just bought the Hornady LNL AP press. Now I'm researching about the die setup. By far, I have narrowed down to two plans based on the Hornady 3 die setup plus RCBS powder lockout die. LNL AP users, please give me some recommendations about which to go and why?

Plan ONE:
1. Size and deprime,
2. Flare
3. Hornady powder charge
4. RCBS powder lockout die,
5. Seat and crimp
I am concerned about the seat and crimp not being consistent. From my experience loading 223 on Redding T7 press, the seating doesn't work that good when crimping happens on the same die. But, that was trying to reload precision 223 rounds.

Plan TWO:
1. Size and deprime.
2. Powder charge through flare die
3. RCBS powder lockout die.
4. seat
5. crimp
My concern about this is that the case activated powder measure through the flare die is going to be somewhat more complicated to setup and adjust.

Last question is about the lube and sizing.
Do you decap separately then tumble clean prior to sizing?
Before sizing, do you lube the 40sw case at all? If you lube, do you clean it after sizing?
Thank you for the help and have a good day.

View Quote

Well, you've correctly identified the two options and the "concerns" lol.

Plan 2 is best IMO, and future setup adjustments and issues can be avoided at the cost of a Quick Change Powder Die ($26), PTX Powder Measure Stop ($7), and a bushing per caliber. That assumes you are going to use the press for other calibers, of course, otherwise you just leave it set up.

It's not necessary to lube straight-walled cases, but I've come to enjoy the easy operation of spraying some One-Shot on the cases in a plastic bag, squishing them around a bit to benefit from the lube on the bag's inside, and letting them dry for 5 minutes.

I don't decap pistol cases before cleaning.
I do tumble clean before sizing.

Posted: 7/26/2016 5:21:37 PM EDT

[#3]

40s&w

1. Size and decap
2. Powder thru expander
3. Rcbs powder lockout
4. Seat (hornady)
5. Taper crimp (rcbs)

I use hornady spray lube without tumbling off.

Posted: 7/26/2016 5:27:36 PM EDT

[#4]

Option 2, my oal variation went way down on my lnl ap when I separated seating and crimping.

Eta I lube pistol calibers with Hornady's spray lube. It works well and makes the press take much less effort to run. Again, it reduced my oal variation.

Posted: 7/26/2016 5:51:34 PM EDT

[#5]

Station 1, Deprime and sizer die, so Hornady carbide dies come in handy so you don't have to lube the cases!!!
Note, not having to lube the cases means that you don't have to wipe the lube off the rounds in the end. Lubing is not bad if you vibrate with dry media, since you can just throw the loaded ammo back into it to clean the lube off the rounds, but if you wet tumble, this no longer becomes a option

Station 2, powder dispensor with powder through expander and linkage brace. As for powder through expander, the hornday one will work, but take the time to polish the belling section on it via spin polishing.

Station 3, some kind of powder check. The RCBS lock out will work, but look into a Dillion powder checker since it not much more when you have a buy a few lock outs, and will come in handy when you are starting to load rifle loads isntead (what the lock out kind of dies will not work on isntead).
Note, get back to me when you are starting to load rifle, and I will walk you through the needed mods to get the Dillion power check to work well with bottle neck cartridges. The needed mods are a end button piece that fits the case neck without a lot of slop, has a flat base with only sight edge tampering, and to sleeve the bottom button so is not flopping around like a BB in a box car missing the mouth of the case when the machine is jolting.
Here is inline mod of a dillion powder check, if you don't want to have to drill hole in your top tool plate to make the stock unit work without mods,
http://inlinefabrication.com/products/powder-check-for-the-hornady-lnl-ap

Here is the stock dillon unit used with just a hole drilled in the top tool plate, which saves you about $40 dollars over the in line kit (so you don't have to drill the hole).

Station 4, bullet seat, and the combo bullet seater that comes will you die set will be used, but now spun up far enough to not crimp the bullets at that station.

Station 5, Lee carbide FCD to crimp the jacket bullets in the case. Note only does the die bullet crimp, but makes sure that the sides of the case been resized as the round is being pulled out of them.
Note, if you are running casted PC bullets that are over .401, then its the standard lee taper crimp die you want to pick up instead. It will work just like the combo seater/crimper die you have in the Hornady set, but is only around $12 to pick up the needed extra die instead. The reason for this, the carbide ring in the carbide ring in the factory crimp dies will end up resizing the bullets down to around .401 when the case/bullet is drawn through it on the way up and back down.

http://leeprecision.com/carbide-factory-crimp-die-40sw10mm.html

http://leeprecision.com/taper-crp-di-40s-w-10mm.html

As for dies, Hornady custom 40 with carbide sizer,
The Lee bullet crimper
The Hornady powder through expander and don't forget to buy the PXT linkage piece,

And a #10 shell plate.

Posted: 7/26/2016 5:58:30 PM EDT

[#6]

holy moly.
Thank you all.
Plan 2 it is. Starting to order parts.
Thanks again!

Posted: 7/26/2016 6:28:50 PM EDT

[#7]

Quote History

Quoted:
holy moly.
Thank you all.
Plan 2 it is. Starting to order parts.
Thanks again!

View Quote View All Quotes

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Quote History

Quoted:
holy moly.
Thank you all.
Plan 2 it is. Starting to order parts.
Thanks again!

No worries, and if you have the press, and waiting on the parts, now would be a good time to pull the press down to not only clean it, but shim it as well.

Quoted:
No worries, and not a bad idea to to a total tear down from the start, with a clean up on the rebuild.

We start with the drive shaft channel through the bottom of the ram to de-bur the edges of the channel top and bottom, then make sure that the lower parts are heavily greases before it put back together. By doing this, it will allow the channel against the drive rod to last longer, before the ram has to be replaced, or the channel bored and shimmed instead.
Hence any slop in the channel against the drive shaft, just translate to slop in the indexing, since instead of the gear being turned by the pawns, it pushing the gear fore and after first before it starts to turn. As for why Hornady did not install a bushing there to begin with, is still a mistery. Hence as the shaft to channel gets sloppier, it requires the pawns to be readjust to account for the added slop isntead. As for once the channel really gets worn out, then you start running into major problems isntead.

From there with the sub plate in hand (after it's top has been polished so the rim of the shell are gliding across a smooth surface), the drive hub to the sub plate is correctly shimmed. As for the center drive hub, you can do the slit washer mod to try to keep the bolt tight, or just chuck the bolt over your shoulder and loctie in a thread shaft to use a nylon aircraft lock nut with washer instead.
http://media.chiefaircraft.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/d/u/dub_585.jpg

Now dry fit the sub plate to the top of the ram, and if the bolt channels in sub plate are not slightly above the center line of the bolt channel in the ram, then the top of ram to bottom of sub plate is shimmed as well. Hence when the side bolts of the ram are tightened, we want to the bolts to be drawing the top plate down against the top of the ram a few thousands of a inch. The bolts are tapered headed, so they work to do this well.

From here, then you just at the mercy of the ram shaft to body channel for it's slop, and it becomes a matter of keeping all the tool stations loaded, and apply pressure down on the sub plate all corners of it at the bottom of the stroke.

Lastly, as pointed out, check your bullet seating stems against your bullets, and if they are not matching, then get the die manufacturer on the phone to supply the correct bullet seating stems. In pistol, it should come with a rounded and flat base stem, and in rifle, double check to make sure that inside of the stem as least closely matches the bullet, and that the center of the channel has been relieved for say a soft point bullet. Hence on round nose rifle bullets, should be that the seating stem is round like a pistol round nose seating stem. Lastly here, take a good look at the inside of the stem milling conditions as well. It should be smooth like a mirror, and it it all chatter city with grooves and ridges, get the manufactor on the phone for a replacement. Hence without a lathe to correct the surface of the seating stem to keep it square to the body of the die , tiring to clean up the ID surface by hand with just end creating more of a mess instead.

Not a fan of this,
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/05/bullet-seating-advice-how-to-avoid-ring-marks-on-your-bullets/

Posted: 7/26/2016 8:16:29 PM EDT

[#8]

Quote History

Quoted:
Station 1, Deprime and sizer die, so Hornady carbide dies come in handy so you don't have to lube the cases!!!
Note, not having to lube the cases means that you don't have to wipe the lube off the rounds in the end. Lubing is not bad if you vibrate with dry media, since you can just throw the loaded ammo back into it to clean the lube off the rounds, but if you wet tumble, this no longer becomes a option

Station 2, powder dispensor with powder through expander and linkage brace. As for powder through expander, the hornday one will work, but take the time to polish the belling section on it via spin polishing.

Station 3, some kind of powder check. The RCBS lock out will work, but look into a Dillion powder checker since it not much more when you have a buy a few lock outs, and will come in handy when you are starting to load rifle loads isntead (what the lock out kind of dies will not work on isntead).
Note, get back to me when you are starting to load rifle, and I will walk you through the needed mods to get the Dillion power check to work well with bottle neck cartridges. The needed mods are a end button piece that fits the case neck without a lot of slop, has a flat base with only sight edge tampering, and to sleeve the bottom button so is not flopping around like a BB in a box car missing the mouth of the case when the machine is jolting.
Here is inline mod of a dillion powder check, if you don't want to have to drill hole in your top tool plate to make the stock unit work without mods,
http://inlinefabrication.com/products/powder-check-for-the-hornady-lnl-ap

Here is the stock dillon unit used with just a hole drilled in the top tool plate, which saves you about $40 dollars over the in line kit (so you don't have to drill the hole).
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr153/Col_Cotton_Hill/reloading%20stuff/installed_zps87048b23.jpg

Station 4, bullet seat, and the combo bullet seater that comes will you die set will be used, but now spun up far enough to not crimp the bullets at that station.

Station 5, Lee carbide FCD to crimp the jacket bullets in the case. Note only does the die bullet crimp, but makes sure that the sides of the case been resized as the round is being pulled out of them.
Note, if you are running casted PC bullets that are over .401, then its the standard lee taper crimp die you want to pick up instead. It will work just like the combo seater/crimper die you have in the Hornady set, but is only around $12 to pick up the needed extra die instead. The reason for this, the carbide ring in the carbide ring in the factory crimp dies will end up resizing the bullets down to around .401 when the case/bullet is drawn through it on the way up and back down.

http://leeprecision.com/userfiles/images/38_FCD.jpg
http://leeprecision.com/carbide-factory-crimp-die-40sw10mm.html

http://leeprecision.com/graphics/shoppingcart/tcdiecutaway.jpg
http://leeprecision.com/taper-crp-di-40s-w-10mm.html

As for dies, Hornady custom 40 with carbide sizer,
The Lee bullet crimper
The Hornady powder through expander and don't forget to buy the PXT linkage piece,
http://1.op.ht/978-550-ffffff/opplanet-hornady-powder-through-expander-for-use-with-case-activated-powder-drop-355-bull.jpg
http://ultimatereloader.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/ptx-bracket-close.jpg

And a #10 shell plate.

View Quote

I agree 100% with Dano, except I have the Hornady Powder Cop die - which requires visual monitoring of the die indicator, rather than producing an audible alarm.

Posted: 7/26/2016 10:19:19 PM EDT

[#9]

All of my LnL straightwall handgun reloading is thus for 9mm, 10mm and 45:

1. re-size and de-prime

2. prime

3. powder drop

4. flare

5. seat

6. crimp

All using hornady dies.

I have messed with a powder cop and flare through powder drop routine, just didnt care for it or think it was beneficial, to me.

Posted: 7/27/2016 12:07:15 AM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
All of my LnL straightwall handgun reloading is thus for 9mm, 10mm and 45:

1. re-size and de-prime
2. prime
3. powder drop
4. flare
5. seat
6. crimp

All using hornady dies.

I have messed with a powder cop and flare through powder drop routine, just didnt care for it or think it was beneficial, to me.

View Quote

Got a friend that I shoot with, and just the last time alone, we had to knock 4 bullet out of his Glock barrel from squib loads.
So yes, , no powder check on his progressive machine, and still insisted that he is looking at the powder levels before he seats a bullet to make sure that there is powder in the loads every time we have to knock a bullet out of hot barrel. Hence the problem is not that there is no powder in the loads, but can not tell the height of the powder to confirm that he has a full load in case to not cause problems isntead.

If you are going to run a progressive machine, then some sort of powder check is mandatory, and it need to check the height of the powder drop in the case to make sure it unified to the rest, than just making sure that there is powder in the case isntead.

As for as powder checks go, visual powder check would the least best since you have to look at each time (to easy to not look at when you are suposed to), then something like the lock out die (for pistol) that will lock the machine up if the level is wrong, with the best being the Dillon, since your going to get an alarm if the powder level is off isntead (and way faster to clear the case on the machine, then to have to play with a lock out to get it unlocked as it stops the machine just before you handle all the way down. Hence with a Dillon alarm, when you get the alarm on the bottom of the stroke from the powder level being wrong, you just pull the case as you are handling back up to get it out of play instead. With the lock out, you have to play with to get it unlocked so you can finish the stroke, then pull the case as you are handling back up again (so you don't double stroke and end up with a case that is not double charged isntead.)

Posted: 7/27/2016 9:26:31 AM EDT

[#11]

Good choice in press.

If I tumble in SS pins and oven dry I shoot the brass with a spray or two of One Shot (properly shaken) in a gallon zip-lock bag.

If I use the corn media that has a little polish in vibratory cleaner I don't need anything for lube. Lube just makes the opteration of the press smoother.

For 9mm and 40S&W:

1 Size/de-prime

2 Powder/PTX

3 Powder Cop

4 Bullet feed die/tubes ("$28 Bullet Feeder")

5 Seat (very light crimp)

Hope this helps.

Posted: 7/27/2016 10:30:55 AM EDT

[#12]

I load 45 and 9mm on my LnL AP

I use option 1 I load a lot of cast and PC bullets, I have avoided the Hornady PTXs since almost every account I have read reports little to no flare/belling which matters with oversized soft bullets.

In the event I choose to seat and crimp separate, which I sometimes do, I just pull the powder check.

No lube on straight walled, though many report more consistent COAL using spray lube.

Posted: 7/27/2016 11:20:36 AM EDT

[#13]

Please school me what is the 28 buck bullet feeder tube?

Thanks

Posted: 7/27/2016 12:02:41 PM EDT

[#14]

I use option 2. Several years ago Hornady came out with an addition part called the powder stop which makes adjusting their powder thru expanders very easy. This piece is included with the newer presses. I ordered additional ones so I could set one for each caliber to eliminate adjusting as I change calibers frequently.

I clean my brass before sizing and depriming. Clean brass helps protect the sizing die.

Posted: 7/27/2016 1:44:13 PM EDT

[#15]

Quote History

Quoted:
Please school me what is the 28 buck bullet feeder tube?

Thanks

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Something like this.

Ultimate reloader

Posted: 7/27/2016 2:54:57 PM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:
Please school me what is the 28 buck bullet feeder tube?

Thanks

View Quote

It is a beautiful thing... $28 Bullet Feeder

sent you an IM

Posted: 7/27/2016 3:15:08 PM EDT

[#17]

For plated bullets I use the hornady bullet feeder die and a 24" length of aluminum tubing. Works fine.

Basically the same thing as the $28 gizmo, but the al tubing supports itself.

Posted: 7/27/2016 3:54:26 PM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:
For plated bullets I use the hornady bullet feeder die and a 24" length of aluminum tubing. Works fine.

Basically the same thing as the $28 gizmo, but the al tubing supports itself.

View Quote

Where did you get the aluminum tubing - if you don't mind me asking?

Posted: 7/27/2016 4:08:23 PM EDT

[#19]

Quote History

Quoted:

Where did you get the aluminum tubing - if you don't mind me asking?

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
For plated bullets I use the hornady bullet feeder die and a 24" length of aluminum tubing. Works fine.

Basically the same thing as the $28 gizmo, but the al tubing supports itself.

Where did you get the aluminum tubing - if you don't mind me asking?

I ordered 6' lengths of 1/2" x .035 wall tubing from Zoro.com, cut them into 24" lengths, and drilled them for hairpin clips at each end. I drilled some small holes every couple of inches to work as a view window to gauge how may bullets are left in the tube. I need to enlarge those holes, I can't clearly see the bullets in the holes I drilled.

This tubing will work for 9mm and .40. it's too small for .45acp. I had to drill out the end of the 9mm bullet feeder die so the 1/2" tubing fit. The die metal is soft and easy to drill. IIRC the the tubing fit the .40 cal die without doing anything.

Posted: 7/27/2016 8:06:40 PM EDT

[#20]

Quote History

Quoted:

Got a friend that I shoot with, and just the last time alone, we had to knock 4 bullet out of his Glock barrel from squib loads.
So yes, , no powder check on his progressive machine, and still insisted that he is looking at the powder levels before he seats a bullet to make sure that there is powder in the loads every time we have to knock a bullet out of hot barrel. Hence the problem is not that there is no powder in the loads, but can not tell the height of the powder to confirm that he has a full load in case to not cause problems isntead.

If you are going to run a progressive machine, then some sort of powder check is mandatory, and it need to check the height of the powder drop in the case to make sure it unified to the rest, than just making sure that there is powder in the case isntead.

As for as powder checks go, visual powder check would the least best since you have to look at each time (to easy to not look at when you are suposed to), then something like the lock out die (for pistol) that will lock the machine up if the level is wrong, with the best being the Dillon, since your going to get an alarm if the powder level is off isntead (and way faster to clear the case on the machine, then to have to play with a lock out to get it unlocked as it stops the machine just before you handle all the way down. Hence with a Dillon alarm, when you get the alarm on the bottom of the stroke from the powder level being wrong, you just pull the case as you are handling back up to get it out of play instead. With the lock out, you have to play with to get it unlocked so you can finish the stroke, then pull the case as you are handling back up again (so you don't double stroke and end up with a case that is not double charged isntead.)

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
All of my LnL straightwall handgun reloading is thus for 9mm, 10mm and 45:

1. re-size and de-prime
2. prime
3. powder drop
4. flare
5. seat
6. crimp

All using hornady dies.

I have messed with a powder cop and flare through powder drop routine, just didnt care for it or think it was beneficial, to me.

Got a friend that I shoot with, and just the last time alone, we had to knock 4 bullet out of his Glock barrel from squib loads.
So yes, , no powder check on his progressive machine, and still insisted that he is looking at the powder levels before he seats a bullet to make sure that there is powder in the loads every time we have to knock a bullet out of hot barrel. Hence the problem is not that there is no powder in the loads, but can not tell the height of the powder to confirm that he has a full load in case to not cause problems isntead.

If you are going to run a progressive machine, then some sort of powder check is mandatory, and it need to check the height of the powder drop in the case to make sure it unified to the rest, than just making sure that there is powder in the case isntead.

As for as powder checks go, visual powder check would the least best since you have to look at each time (to easy to not look at when you are suposed to), then something like the lock out die (for pistol) that will lock the machine up if the level is wrong, with the best being the Dillon, since your going to get an alarm if the powder level is off isntead (and way faster to clear the case on the machine, then to have to play with a lock out to get it unlocked as it stops the machine just before you handle all the way down. Hence with a Dillon alarm, when you get the alarm on the bottom of the stroke from the powder level being wrong, you just pull the case as you are handling back up to get it out of play instead. With the lock out, you have to play with to get it unlocked so you can finish the stroke, then pull the case as you are handling back up again (so you don't double stroke and end up with a case that is not double charged isntead.)

I concur that the Powder Cop is not as effective as the Dillon. I'm working on plans for an alarm to work with the Powder Cop, but I haven't finalized it yet. Mine is less mechanical and more electronic - an IR sensor for the PC shaft and either a Hall Effect sensor or IR sensor for when the ram is at the top.

It's important to point out that NONE of these options actually "measures" the powder in the case. At best they warn you of two conditions: substantially too little powder or substantially too much powder (which includes zero powder and double charges).

Posted: 7/28/2016 2:02:04 AM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
It's important to point out that NONE of these options actually "measures" the powder in the case. At best they warn you of two conditions: substantially too little powder or substantially too much powder (which includes zero powder and double charges).

View Quote

The units will do a little better than that, and it just a mater of how closly the end button fits to the ID of the case, and don't have the end button all side radus isntead.

Hence on the dillon unit, then go a tad over board on the end of button side radusing, since the upper tool in some caliper is like a BB in a Box car. So buy sleeving the upper tool to the bottom button is not swinging so wildly, you can fatten the end of the bottom button with only a slight outer bottom edge taper, to get a better reading of the powder instead. With the better reading, you can now make a tighter V upper taper block and will tell you in your are over and under say .4 gr isntead.

Hence in small calibers, the powder rod end button is swinging like a clapper in a church tower bell in the lower tool head tool as the machine is jolting (Why the bottom button edges are so tapered, so it can find the opening of the case when swinging instead. Hence keep the powder rod end centered in the tool head tool and OD the button for a tighter fit into the case you are checking, and the bottom of it can be mainly flat for a great deal better reading of what amount of powder is in the case isntead.).

Posted: 7/28/2016 2:03:14 PM EDT

[#22]

I spoke too soon.
The tube type bullet feeder looks like a good addition.
That will take one more die opening. So I would have to either give up powder checker station, or seat and crimp on one station.
So, what do you folks think? Is the auto bullet feeder worth it?

1 size and deprime
2 drop powder
3 check powder
4 flare and feed bullet
5 seat and crimp

OR

1 size and deprime
2 drop powder
3 flare and feed bullet
4 seat
5 crimp

I prefer the first one if I have to use the bullet feeder. I think that with a bullet feeder, checking powder is even more critical cause it is hard to visual inspect. Then it is back to the same concern again. How well can the die seat and crimp the same time?

Posted: 7/28/2016 2:28:15 PM EDT

[#23]

I do the second option - but flare happens at the powder drop with a ptx (Powder through expander).

I also added a LED light from inline fabrications that sits in the hole in the middle of the top of the press and has a light strip that attaches to the frame. It makes seeing powder levels better. Still not as reliable as the dillon check.

I think it depends on your confidence that you are running a complete cycle on the press and not short stroking or doing odd things. you have to pay attention to not short stroke or double stroke.

Posted: 7/28/2016 3:15:03 PM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:
I spoke too soon.
The tube type bullet feeder looks like a good addition.
That will take one more die opening. So I would have to either give up powder checker station, or seat and crimp on one station.
So, what do you folks think? Is the auto bullet feeder worth it?

1 size and deprime
2 drop powder
3 check powder
4 flare and feed bullet
5 seat and crimp

OR

1 size and deprime
2 drop powder
3 flare and feed bullet
4 seat
5 crimp

I prefer the first one if I have to use the bullet feeder. I think that with a bullet feeder, checking powder is even more critical cause it is hard to visual inspect. Then it is back to the same concern again. How well can the die seat and crimp the same time?

View Quote

Don't give up the powder check and instead bullet seat and crimp in the final station with the Hornday combo die isntead.
Also, before you dive head deep into the Hornady bullet dropper, spend the extra $25 to get a Mr bullet dropper isntead. The lower section of the Mr bullet feeder is only $50, and you can add a tube to it instead. Hence the Mr bullet dropper works via bearings, and it suspetical to the problems of the Hornady bullet dropper when it come to different type bullets isntead (casted, verses jacket bullets, which in the case of PC or waxed bullet, requires mod'g the Hornady bullet dropper to work with that type of bullet only).
http://www.mrbulletfeeder.biz/

Note, the one draw back on the MR bullet feeder, is you need a MR bullet feeder type case mouth exspander as well. If take a good look at the expander below (which is just for a Dillon powder dispenser), will see that is a M type expander, which I'm not aware of anyone selling such for a Hornady powder dispensor. All is not lost, and you need to find someone with a lathe to either make you one, or at least rework your PXT expander into a M design instead.

So,
1 sizer and deprimer.
2 powder with PXT powder through expander and linkage.
3 Powder check
4 bullet dropper
5 bullet seat and crimper combo die.

To add, would forgo the bullet dropper, and just insert the bullets by hand isntead.
I bring this up, since if you are buying a LNL, then you should no intention of adding a case feeder to it (the case feed system is a problem system that will have you chasing your tail trying to get it work reliably).

If the intention is to add both a Case feeder and a Bullet feeder to the machine, then get a Dillon 650 instead!!!!

Posted: 7/28/2016 8:27:54 PM EDT

[#25]

Quote History

Quoted:

The units will do a little better than that, and it just a mater of how closly the end button fits to the ID of the case, and don't have the end button all side radus isntead.

Hence on the dillon unit, then go a tad over board on the end of button side radusing, since the upper tool in some caliper is like a BB in a Box car. So buy sleeving the upper tool to the bottom button is not swinging so wildly, you can fatten the end of the bottom button with only a slight outer bottom edge taper, to get a better reading of the powder instead. With the better reading, you can now make a tighter V upper taper block and will tell you in your are over and under say .4 gr isntead.

Hence in small calibers, the powder rod end button is swinging like a clapper in a church tower bell in the lower tool head tool as the machine is jolting (Why the bottom button edges are so tapered, so it can find the opening of the case when swinging instead. Hence keep the powder rod end centered in the tool head tool and OD the button for a tighter fit into the case you are checking, and the bottom of it can be mainly flat for a great deal better reading of what amount of powder is in the case isntead.).
http://ultimatereloader.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Dillon-Powder-Check-Overview-Labeled-Sized.jpg

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Quoted:

Quoted:
It's important to point out that NONE of these options actually "measures" the powder in the case. At best they warn you of two conditions: substantially too little powder or substantially too much powder (which includes zero powder and double charges).

The units will do a little better than that, and it just a mater of how closly the end button fits to the ID of the case, and don't have the end button all side radus isntead.

Hence on the dillon unit, then go a tad over board on the end of button side radusing, since the upper tool in some caliper is like a BB in a Box car. So buy sleeving the upper tool to the bottom button is not swinging so wildly, you can fatten the end of the bottom button with only a slight outer bottom edge taper, to get a better reading of the powder instead. With the better reading, you can now make a tighter V upper taper block and will tell you in your are over and under say .4 gr isntead.

Hence in small calibers, the powder rod end button is swinging like a clapper in a church tower bell in the lower tool head tool as the machine is jolting (Why the bottom button edges are so tapered, so it can find the opening of the case when swinging instead. Hence keep the powder rod end centered in the tool head tool and OD the button for a tighter fit into the case you are checking, and the bottom of it can be mainly flat for a great deal better reading of what amount of powder is in the case isntead.).
http://ultimatereloader.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Dillon-Powder-Check-Overview-Labeled-Sized.jpg

Interestingly, Inline Fabrication makes a modified Dillon Powder Check for use on the Hornady LnL AP. I haven't figured out yet how the ram operates the actuation rod, but it looks mighty nice.

I concur with your ideas about making the powder rod fit the case better - that's been a clear issue with the Powder Cop, and not just with smaller calibers. If there's any shake with the shell plate rotation, the powder can shift enough in a pistol case to produce a false reading. Hornady provides a little "centering insert" made of light plastic, but it really won't do much; a caliber-specific rod, or rod adapter anyway, is really a better idea. Is that brass tip on the powder rod threaded - as in can it be swapped out with a more case-fitting piece?

The groove in the top of the powder rod, and the corresponding switch actuator are really important as well. If the switch is as sensitive as I know such switches can be, then the Powder Check could be pretty close to "measuring" the powder in the case - as long as the powder rod really fits that case.
Fixed that stupid tag!

Posted: 8/4/2016 8:57:38 AM EDT

[#26]

I do visual confirmation instead of the powder check.

You need this!
http://inlinefabrication.com/products/skylight-led-lighting-system-for-the-hornady-lnl-ap

Posted: 8/4/2016 8:13:39 PM EDT

[#27]

I have both extra lights and a video camera monitoring my press at the (half) station just past the powder drop, but I STILL like the Powder Cop for extra verification. And if the amount of powder isn't right - but it isn't absent or overfilling the case - a Powder Cop can help make that obvious, while that's not necessarily easy to do with any form of visual check.

Still better than the Powder Cop is something like Dillon's system that AUDIBLY reminds you that something isn't right. Your eyes can fatigue, but a loud buzzer isn't something you can just ignore.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - die setup for Hornady LNL AP press loading 40sw

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