Ok, so I get that it's easy AF to cast my own lead bullets.



What is the process for castingmy own jacketed bullets?



Is it even worth it?
 


edit to title for what OP meant. dryflash3


 

edit to add to title, dryflash3

You wouldn't cast jacketed bullets.

They do make dies that you can swage a lead core, into a piece of pipe or old brass. They can make pretty good bullets, even decent JHP. However, the dies aren't cheap.

Basically you need a tool for the core, some people cast cores, others use lead wire and cut them. Then you have to get your jacket in order. In the case of .22lr brass for .223 projectiles, you need to de-rim it, then you press the lead core into the brass, then you have to point the bullet.

I've always wanted to step up to making my own jacketed bullets, but the initial costs put it below other things I want to do.


ETA: I'm sure I missed steps, thats just a basic rundown, to my knowledge.

I've never gotten into it, but you might check Corbin's website for some good info.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cp862k3bMs8

I've looked into making jacketed bullets.  There are two major issues....

The cost of the dies and other equipment is crazy.  I can buy a basic reload set up for a few hundred bucks.  Dies for swaging bullets can go a few hundred per set.  When I last looked into this (decade or more ago), it looked like you could break the $1000.00 mark real fast.

Cost of materials:  Either you need to get into bullet casting to make cores (go find lead, pay for the scrap, refine, melt, pour into molds, etc -  all more money) or you need to buy lead wire for cores and then cut to length.  Then you need jackets.  and either you are buying jacket material ($$$) or you can reform fired .22 cases (or others) to make jackets (which means yet more $$$ for equipment and tooling).  Seriously, I don't think you can make a bullet this way that would end up 'cheap'.  If you needed to make some odd variation or size, it might be worthwhile.  Need a rebated heel .320 Diameter 120 grain bullet for your martini cadet .310?  Maybe.  But on an economic basis, factoring cost of equipment and materials, it didn't look even remotely worthwhile.

My decision was this:  When I see a screaming deal on bullets, I buy them in multiples of 1000 and call it good.  I can see basic lead bullet casting (and using gas checks) as being okay economically, but Corbin's stuff is crazy pricey.

There is an old article of a guy who makes fmj for 5.56mm by pressing lead wire into .22lr cases reshaped as the jacket.

Much easier to buy a few k of bullets.

Go here : CastBoolits Swaging forum and read. They're doing some really cool stuff using fired casings for jackets. It's not cheap by any means.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Unanimously looks like I'll just go the route of bulk purchasing bulk jacketed bullets and using those
judging by the amount of brass I have I oughta be able to score some sizable discounts for other components

Looks like it would be 1250.00 to get started with the BT system. SPENDY, but goddamn, I'd love to be able to make My own 55gr bullets.

I wonder if Anybody makes a die that puts a cannelure on the finished bullet?

I just think that would be so cool, pick up range brass, lead from the berm, cast the slugs, derim the .22 cases, add powder and primers, make Your own bullets. I know, not cheap, but I don't think about the cost of the die's. I just think of them as a tool I purchased.

Just like all  the car, and carpentry tools, and what all else I own, just something I needed or wanted to do the job at hand, Though most all the automotive and carpentry tools have paid for themselves, many multiple times over, none of My reloading equipment ever will.

It is a little hand crank item with a hardened 'gear' style tool that is forced against the side of the object to  impress the metal.

Works on cases after the bullet is seated also.

http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CBST&Product_Code=HCT-1&Category_Code=

There is also a FB group for bullet swaging.

Swaging your own is a niche of a niche. J4 jackets and slugs can also be purchased as a starting point. Inspection equipment is difficult to come by in terms of balance check for example.

Damn, getting the starter kit, adding the core swage die, to control weight , and the tipping die,, plus cannelure tool, it'd be 1500.00 to go the way I'd want to do it.

Pipe dreaming. Until I hit the lotto.

Too ad, I think I would skip the Corbin slug mold and go with the BT 11 hole mold.

I have this tool : Corbin for doing cannelures. It works awesome. I've even run a few cases through it for shits and giggles.

You guys are wayyyyyy over thinking this!!!!

You can get started swaging your own jacketed bullets for as little as $5 depending on the caliber and what reloading/casting/sizing equipment you already have. I bought used 222, 6mm & 243 fl sizing dies for $5 apiece at gunshows and those dies work extremely well for pistol calibers.

Rifle swaging dies are $$$ but if you look around you can buy used sets of corbins (7/8-14, standard reloading press) 223 dies for +/- $600.

147gr hp's for the  9mm using 380acp cases for jackets



150gr hp's & 175gr fn's made for the 38spl/357 using 380acp cases and 9mm cases for jackets



265gr hp's made for the 44mag using 40s&w cases for jackets



225gr hp's made for the 45acp using 40s&w cases for jackets



All of those home swaged jacketed bullets pictured above were made with nothing more than common reloading dies that now are used to for bullets that I bought used for $5 apiece. The lead cores are all nothing more than cast bullets that I already cast/use/shoot. And all the bullets were re-sized in the lee puch thru sizing dies after they were swaged/formed to get their final diameter. The "xtp" notching on those hp's was done with the most $$$$ die, specifically the hornady blank die set. Is the hornady blank die set needed??? NO!!! I just happen to like xtp hp's and the $$$ I save making my own jacketed hp's out of free range brass and free range lead allows me to spend a little $$$ on thing like that.

I do swage 223's also, but I do that because of the challenge. Made some 55gr hp's for plinking, The next batch will be back to the 62gr hp's.



I'm not really saving anything by making my own 223rem bullets. But it's fun to use free 22lr cases and free range lead for cores and make my own bullets to use in a cheap beater rifle ($180 axis after rebate and selling the scope) and shoot moa groups. The other thing to keep in mind is that the corbil swaging set I bought to make these is doing nothing but going up in value. Ya, I got $$$ out to begin with. But in the long run I'll be making my own rifle bullets for decades and then turn around and sell that corbin die set for more $$$ than I paid for it to begin with. Not only am I saving $$$ not buying bullets at the end of the day when I sell that set I'll make $$$. It's the same as they are paying me to use them.

The pistol bullets on the other hand are a huge savings. Bulk 147gr hp's for the 9mm are around 15 cents apiece and the hp's for the 44mag's are 35+cents apiece. I shoot 1500+ home swaged jacketed bullets a year in the 9mm/38spl/357/44spl/44mag/45acp and making my own jacketed hp's easily saves me $400+ a year.

Anyway, you can easily swage pistol bullets with common reloading dies that have been available for decades and that you more than most likely already own. Pick a pistol caliber and perhaps we can put together a list of what it takes and the steps involved in making a home swaged jacketed bullet.

And yes testing the hp's is always interesting. Did a 25yd 1100fps load with the 265gr hp's in the 44mag testing expansion/penetration. Took 3 or 4 tries to come up with a hp desigh the stayed together and did 11"+ of penetration in tightly packed wet newspaper bundles. Why 1100fps??? Because I 1100fps muzzle/25yd test duplicated a hunting/full house load I came up with for that bullet and mirrors that loads ballistics @75yds/100yd impact. Too lazy to drag 50+# of wet target 100yds down range so shorten the distance and slow the load down.



Those 225gr hp's for the 45acp are flat out wicked. Designed them so the fragged, they explode into pieces leaving huge holes in whatever they hit. As you can see there isn't much left after recovering them from a bundle of tightly wrapped wet newspaper that's been soaked for 24 hours in a cooler full of water.



Even though those bullets implode, they have excellent penetration. 3 of the 5-shot test were found in the 7 1/2"+ range in the bundle and 2 of them blew out the back of the bundle where the blue picture on the bu.



Anyway, cheap amusement, free jackets/brass and free lead/cores.

Do you mind walking us through your method?

There is an Art to making Accurate Bullets. I tried to make some Bullets once, the only thing they were good for was my slingshot

Not at all. Pick a caliber.

True, but it's also extremely rewarding when a home swaged bullet actually does group moa. A couple years back I thought about it and decided to try swaging my own 223's. I bought a set of corbin dies to swage my own jacketed bullets. And made a set of dies to swage my own lead bullets. I bought a cheap savage axis heavy bbl'd 223 to shoot the jacketed and a 14" contender bbl to shoot the lead swaged bullets.

The rifle is nothing special, just a cheap rifle with a flimsy stock and an average trigger. The trigger on the axis is one of those adjustable acru-triggers but I haven't bother to play with it. Whatever it was set at from the factory is what I've been using. Anyway the rifle was $300, it was one of the heavy bbl scope combos that had a $50 mail in rebate. So I got $50 back from savage and sold the scope for $75. The end result was that I had a $180 beater to shoot my home made blammo ammo in.

While this target doesn't look like much to some people. I couldn't be happier!!!! Free range lead for cores, free 22lr cases for jackets, free mixed range brass and a $180 rifle.



Don't know what it is about bl-c2 and 55gr/62gr bullets. But 25.5gr to 26.5gr loads have produced moa groups in every 223 that I've ever owned. This beater savage axis is no different, that 5-shot 25.5gr load works for me.

Did a run of 1000 55gr hp's and I'm just starting a 1000 bullet run of 62gr hp's. Later on this year I'm going to make some 75gr & 80gr hp's and see what they can do.

Always wondered how a 22lr could be made into a 223 jacketed bullet. Heard about it 40 yrs ago...

How about .45?

There's allot mo steps in making bullets from 223 cases than making 225gr hp's for the 45acp.

Step 1:
De-rim the 22lr case. This die turns the 22lr cases into a tube.
Step 2:
Clean the de-rimmed 22lr cases.
Step 3:
Trim the de-rimmed/cleaned cases (if you want, I don't bother)
Step 4:
Anneal the de-rimed/cleaned & trimmed (optional) 22lr cases
Step 5:
Cut or cast the cores
Step 6:
Lube cores and run them thru a bleed die to make them a uniform size/weight
Step 7:
Clean the core
Step 8:
Lube the tubes/jackets/22lr case and seat the cores in them..
Step 9:
Run the jackets that have the seated cores in them up into a point forming die
Step 10:
Clean the lube off of the newly formed bullet.

It's allot of steps but the cleaning or annealing steps are about as easy as it gets (3 steps). And I don't bother to trim the re-rimmed 22lr cases to length, the difference in 22lr cases is as much as 2gr and my 55gr bullets come out as little as 54.3gr and as high as 56.3gr. I view these bullets as nothing more than blasting/blammo ammo so 2gr one way or the other doesn't matter to me. When I start doing the 75gr/80gr bullets I'll be trimming the 22mag and 17 brass to length so the difference in weight will be in the .3gr range. Again not match ammo by any means but others have weight sorted their bullets to tighten the groups up and have done extremely well in competitions with them.

While there's no real saving with the 55gr hp's and 62gr hp's (around $.09 apiece) the 75gr to 80gr hp's can add up real quick (around $.14 apiece).

Hey Sierra, hey Hornady: can I please get a factory tour?

Hornady may still give a walk though if you ask, I know they used to.

Started out where they melted and mixed the lead alloy and punched out the jacket blanks.

Took about 45 minutes to an hour, well worth it for me.

Ended up back at the offices and then you had a chance to buy the

blemished bullets (still using some that I'd gotten).

The worst they can say is no, but I believe they still give tours, my girls

where 6 & 8 years of age at that time; they're 32 & 34 now. Yes I bought a bunch oh projectiles.

sdshooter...............

P S. The only way to get blems is to pick them up there after a tour, don't call and ask to have them

shipped; they will say NO.

I am interested in how you are making use of the reloading dies.

For example the 147gr 9mms from 380 cases.

What dies are you using for these?

I assumed the 222 die of those you listed, but the 222 die and 380 cases will both be about .375" at the base.

Which is a good bit too large for a 9mm bullet and .020" seems like a long way to size down with a push throw sizer.

I have push throw sized jacketed bullets in the past, making .312" bullets into .308" for my 7.62x25mm, and these took some force.

Are you doing multiple steps to size down to ~.356"?

45acp/.451 bullets are extremely easy to make.

40s&w cases for jackets
Any 35cal/40cal/41/cal/44cal cast bullet can be used for a core.
Weigh the case and cast bullet to get the swaged bullet's weight. A 148gr 35cal cast bullet + a 40s&w case ='s 225gr.
Step 1:
Take a 40s&w case and run it up in a 44cal expander die to open the case up. The end result is a .498 to .450 case/jacket.
Step 2:
OPTIONAL, anneal the expanded 40s&w case by either putting a bunch of them in tinfoil and putting them in your lead casting pot @900* for 45 minutes or put them in a self cleaning oven an cycle the oven to clean.
Step 3:
Clean the annealed/expanded 40s&w jackets
Step 5:
Buy a lee push thru sizing die (.451) and a full length 243wincherster or 308winchester sizing die. Unscrew the plug that holds the decapping pin/rod and take it out of the fl die. Put the lee sizing stem that came with the .451 sizing kit in the shell holder. Take an expanded/cleaned 40s&w case/jacket and drop a cast bullet (lead core) in it and then lube the outside of the 40s&w jacket with lube. Set the lubed jacket with the core in it on top of the lee sizing stem and run the ram of the press all the way up. Adjust the fl sizing die body (no plug/recapping rod/pin/expander) down until it touches the case/core and keep adjusting it down until you have swaged a bullet to a shape that you can live with.
Step 6:
Lower the ram and eject the newly swaged/formed bullet with a rod/screwdriver/bolt that will fit in the hole in the top of the fl die and tap the bullet out.
Step 7:
Put the newly swaged bullet in a pile and then switch to the .451 lee sizing die and resize the swaged bullets down to .451.
Step 8:
Clean the lube off of your newly swaged jacketed bullet.

I like to use 243 dies instead of 308 dies to make the 45acp bullets. The 243 dies have a the same 20* shoulder as the 308 but the 243 dies make a bullet with a smaller meplat.

To make the notches in the bullets (xtp notches) I use a hornady blank die. I simply expand the 40s&w case with a 44spl/mad expander die. Toss a cast bullet (I like to use 148gr hbwc's/they make an excellent hp) and use the lee sizing stem and run them up into the blank forming die to make the notches. Then I run them up into a 243 die to form the bullets body/nose. Then resize and clean them.

The notching die (6-point or 8-point) used for shotguns will also work to make the xtp knotches.

243 & 308 fl dies make a .454 bullet, the lee .451 will make them .451/.4515.

224rem fl dies will make a .429 bullet but I still run them thru a lee .429 sizing die.

222rem fl dies will make a .357 bullet but I still run them thru a lee .357 sizing die.

223rem will make a .354 bullet (actually .3545/springback) bullet but I still run them thru a .355 lee sizing die.

These 225gr hp's for the 45acp were made this way,



free 40s&w brass
free range lead cast into 148gr hbwc's
a $5 used fl 243 die
a $15 used lee .451 push thru die
a hornady blank die to make notches $99
A 44spl/mag expander, I already have 1 in my 44cal reloading die set

A link to the hornady black die set. You really don't need them to make your own jacketed bullets. They just make such an excellent bullet nose/shape they were worth buying a set to me.

http://www.hornady.com/store/Blank-Cartridge-22-45-Cal-2-Die-Set/

Anyway, simple enough.

I see the shoulder diameter is .354" on the .223 Rem.

I had forgotten the case taper from the base to the shoulder.

Excellent tutorial.

Thank you.

Appreciate the write up.  I've got everything but the notching die and Lee push through dies.  I've been looking at the BTSniper kits for a long time, but couldn't really justify the cost.  Gonna give this a try.

The easiest way I know of on how to make 9mm bullets is by using a cheap harbour freight saw and scrap 223 brass. Allot of people on this forum have tons of 223 brass, it is the ar-15 forum after all. People are also making their own 300 blackout brass. Everyone already has 223rem reloading dies. You'll need a .355 lee push thru sizer, 1/4" bolt to knock the formed bullet out & a way to cut the 223 brass.

Well here goes:
There's no annealing any brass, no cleaning brass, just cutting the 223 brass, put a core in the cutoff, lube the cutoff piece of brass and run it up in your 223 fl die..
Step 1:
Setup the saw and cut the necks off of the 223 brass
Step 2"
Setup the saw to cut the case off around .4" from the shoulder
Step 3:
Lube the cutoff brass (jacket) and put a cast bullet (core) in it and set it on the lee puch thru sizer stem and run it up into your 223fl die forming a bullet.
Step 4:
Run the still lubed/formed bullet up in a lee .355 push thru sizing die and then clean the lube off of the bullet.



I use a 32cal 98gr cast hbwc for a core so I end up with a hp. The lee 311-93-1r bullets are excellent for cores in 9mm bullets. The end result is a 115gr jacketed 9mm bullet. You want a heavier bullet, switch to a heavier core.

It doen't get any easier than this and it doesn't take allot of $$$$ on high dollar swaging dies either. If you need a push thru die they cost $20, the cheap cutoff saws are on sale right now for $33. You should already have the 223rem dies and case lube. Cores are up to you, I already have my own molds and axis to all the free lead I could ever use/want. I end up with 1000+ pieces of scrap 223 brass every year. It's nothing to turn them into bullets. The bottom of the cases can also be cut to length and drawn down to be used as jackets for 9mm/38spl/357's.

Anyway, this is the easiest way I know to make jacketed 9mm bullets.

I'm using draw dies for these. Draw dies are the hardest part of swaging, most work. If I use an rcbs press I do it in 2 swages .368 and then .354/.355. Any more I use a cheap harbour freight 1 ton arbor press and a piece of pipe and draw them down to .355 in 1 shot. Anyone can make a draw die for these by buying a .358 lee push thru sizing die and using a split dowel and sand paper to hone it out to .368. Typiclcal draw dies, sizing dies and modern taper crimp dies have "pinch points". There's less resistance when sizing (drawing) something down in size when there less contact on the side walls of the draw die, hence pinch point.



I've actually made a simple draw die for the 380acp/9mm cases by using a 3" x 5" piece of 1" steel and drill bits. Using nothing more than a 1/4" punch or a 1/4" grade 8 bolt and a hammer to drive the cases thru the holes drawing them down. It actually works surprisingly well and doesn't take allot of force to drive the cases thru the draw holes.
1st hole:
U drill bit drilling a hole all the way thru the steel (.368). Then change to a W or a 25/64th drill bit and use the .368 hole as a pilot hole and drill down 1/2" into it and stop. The end result is what's pictured above. A hole big enough for the case to fit in (w ='s .386 or 25/64th's ='s .390). A 380acp case is .374 and a 9mm case is .380. After the case is drawn down it comes out .368.
2nd hole:
S drill bit (.348) drilling a hole all the way thru the steel. Then change to a 3/8" drill bit (.375) and using the hole the "S" bit drilled for a pilot hole, drill down 1/2". Then polish the pinch point (.348 hole) to smooth it out and open it up to .350/.351.

Typically I use the draw method to make jacketed bullets when I make bullets for the 38spl/357's. They cost allot more than jacketed 9mm bullets and the specialty bullets like those 175gr hammers cost around $.20 apiece if I had to buy them.

There's a lot of things reloaders have at their disposal that can be re-purposed to make bullets with that don't cost allot of $$$$. If you're looking for cheap high volume bullets, than a cast and coated bullet is all you need. If you feel like using what you already have laying around and like shooting/testing different loads and bullets. Then making your own jacketed bullets is worth while.

Just because someone is selling a $1200 setup to swage bullets doesn't mean you have to buy/use them when $30 worth of used dies or re-using what you already have will make all the jacketed/swaged bullets you care to make. Cores seem to be the biggest concern, cast bullets work well enough. Or you can buy a $15 used lee mold and go to the hardware store and buy $1 worth of screws and nuts to make your own with nothing more than a drill, drill bits and a tap.

I made this core mold for $22 (mold + screws), bought 9 or 10 new lee 2-cavity blank mold blocks a couple years back and turned this one into a core casting mold for the 224's and the 35 cal's (9mm/38spl/357). The 224 cores were made with a 3/16th drill bit and a 10/24 screw. The 35cal core was made with a 5/16th drill bit and a 1/4-20 bolt. The bolt and screw were chucked into a drill and the heads sanded down round and to the correct diameter. I had some scrap metal 1/8" thick laying around so I cut a plate for the bottom of the mold and attached it with a couple of self tapping panhead screws.. When I drilled the mold out I had the bottom plate attached and let the drill bits put marks on the bottom plate. Pulled the buttom plate off and drilled the holes to the proper size and tapped them so they would hold the 10/24 and the 1/4-20 plugs. Put everything back together and the end result is an ajjustable core mold for the 224's and the 35cal's for $22.



Just something to think about.

So I tried the fired cases in a resizing die bullet forming, just a quick and dirty experiment to see whats involved.

I used a Lee .223 Rem size die, .380 ACP brass, and some buckshot for cores.



These are  the first and second attempts, with un-annealed cases. I do not think annealing is optional.

The cores got mangled in removing the bullet from the die. (BTW 3221: what do you use you pop the bullet free from the loading die?)

The next two pic show annealed cases formed into bullets. One with a single buck shot pellet core and one with a two pellet core.





At 157-160 grains weight and at .364" these will make good .38/.357 bullets after sizing to .357/8" diameter.



And last here is the complete test run with the specific tools used. (bullets in chronological order from left to right)



In the back is a core seating die I made.

Just drop in a 380 case (mouth up) and then one or two buckshot pellets. Then insert the ram and tap with a mallet to set the core.

To the lower left is a loading press extension I made to use the .223 die, since the 380 cases have to go far into the dies to hit the shoulder.

ETA: I got the noses to look a bit better by turning the die down about another half turn.

The Lee sizing dies has a excess lube weep hole right on the datum of the shoulder.

This is what cut the mouths on the first two bullets, and did so on the others when I ran the die down father.

What die would you recommend for 10mm/.40 cal? I read on Cast Boolits that 9mm brass works well as jackets, and I can get these locally for $11/k... would love to make a 250 gr .40 bullet for my 40 Super.

IMO, this is the most interesting thread on this forum in a while.

I recall all too well the moaning about lack of bullet availability a few years ago.  This thread tells me it is possible to have a somewhat independent source of supply of bullets.  It does not alleviate the issues of access to lead (for cores) and otherwise good cartridge cases (for jackets) or the need for powder and primers.  Still, one step at a time.

Is this thread worthy of a tack at the top of the forum*?  




*  If/when Hillary is elected, there will be another round of panic buying and nothing will be available to anyone.

One reason I have been just dumping the brass barrel into My bucket at the range lately. Hoarding all the brass I find.

Already got a big stash of lead.

I need to read through and figure out what is needed to make .40's into .45 bullets.

* yeah, my thoughts too. Right now brass and dies are plentiful and range lead is easily mined. I don't like shooting cast lead and while powder coating looks easy, those don't tolerate rifle speeds. For long term supply, swaging seems to be the answer. Cost is the only barrier to entry and range brass conversions allow for an intermediate path saving the jacket forming equipment. Might start scooping up all that .22 LR brass always laying about... never know.

I got a bucketful of .22LR and adding to it every trip, just the cost of the swaging dies is the killer.

I just got started with .300 BO powdercoat cast, looking like it may work out.

So I just reread the thread, particular interest in the 9MM.

Now I know what to do with all the FC and other headstamp .223 brass.

Got the chopsaw and dies and lube.

Been looking around the net for a 32cal 98gr cast hbwc mold for hollow point. Just seeing reference to Mihec molds, what do you have?

I won a bunch of Hornady reloading dies in a raffle.  As a result, I have duplicate dies for every pistol cartridge I own.  Now I know what to do with them.

I wouldn't use my Redding dies for this but redundant, otherwise unused Hornady dies, no problem.

very interesting the way of which you proceed swaging 223 brass for 9mm bullet

It seems easier as other process.

You'll say you use a .355 lee push through sizer
Do you order that custom size by Lee Precision or the bullet sizing Kit .356 can be used instead of .355 ?

I have swaged .458 cal bullets for my 458 socom out of 45 acp brass. I have a few more details to work out, but they have worked well.

I used 308 winchester sizing dies to form the nose. I anneal the cases first, then melt bullets into the cases and then press the lead into them. I go the extra distance to make sure all the projectiles weigh the same by cutting tiny bits of lead out of the heavy ones and adding it to the light ones.

So far, I have had good luck. I still have some testing to do.

And you really need the extra stiffness (and leverage) of a swage press.

I've tried making jacketed bullets at two different periods (with pistol bullets only) during my fifty+ years of handloading. I learned both times that whatever commercial jacketed bullets cost, they're well worth it.

thank you for responding

the process described by 3221 seems simpler but the images are lost ...

I find this http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?164162-9mm-and-308-bullets-from-scrap-223rem-brass!

Would anyone  like to make a statement to help me ?

best regards

Originally Posted By exodont:... the process described by 3221 seems simpler but the images are lost ...

Photobucket strikes again!

Photobucket single-handedly destroyed the first generation of the internet.

I believe what they did may have crossed the line into criminality (extortion/blackmail).  IMO, what they did was THAT bad.

Hi everybody,

Has someone an idea which common die I can use for swaging for 32 acp ?

I think drawing down brass ( 32 acp case or .223 with trimming and annealing) and then swage to .309

32 ACP ammunition and bullets are expensive here.
I manage swaging 40 S&W bullet from 9 mm
I currently try swaging 9mm from .223 case ( thanks for AR15 forum) but I can't find the process for 32 ACP anywhere .

Help would be appreciate

Best regards