Has anyone ever purchased NEW LC brass for AR10? Looked at some online and was thinking this doesn't have the crimp (which sucks removing) and not to expensive. Have always got 1 times fired and had to remove the crimp. Just thought I would ask. Thanks.

Before all the madness (a long long time ago) bulk unfired lake city brass was available for "decent" prices.  

Those days are gone, new unfired brass isn't cheap.

In addition, you still need to process new brass before reloading.

Considering the cost of new empty brass these days, and considering you don't save much time (beyond crimp removal) ..... for me, it makes a lot more economic and fun related sense to buy loaded rounds (loaded in the brass I want) and make my own once fired brass when my brass supplies are low and I want brass for precision.   Side benefit (beyond getting to have fun shooting it)  is my self created once fired brass is now closer to fire formed to my rifle .... and I would rather do load development with fire formed cases than new anyway.

Nothing wrong with new unfired brass though, I just don't appreciate the benefits, if any.

However, I do appreciate the benefits of brass with consistent head stamps that has only been fired in my rifle compared to brass of unknown origin fired through different rifles...I just like making my own once fired more than buying new.

Opinions will vary.

If you have the right tools, crimp removal doesn't take long.

I agree with the above comments, especially when places like Cabela's put Federal 5.56 55gr FMJ on sale for $6.74 a 20 round box. This ammo is loaded with LC brass and is the source of my 5.56 reloads.

Vince

Thanks. I use only LC for my AR10. Commercial for my Savage 10T. One of problems is not the right tools. Have looked at allot of the different options out there to remove the crimp. Doing it by hand for now. Am lucky I get once fired and know the weapons used. Thanks again for the replies.

I'm so glad you posted this info.  I was just thinking about asking a question today about use of the Hornady primer reamer in a cordless drill for my 300blk cases.  It was my understanding the Hornady won't remove excess brass, so I used it on a few but kinda feared running the whole batch just yet.  I even bought the Hornady alum handle for the reamer and did a few by hand, then said to heck with that and chucked it up in the cordless.

Thanks again dryflash3     You are always a big help with my reloading

I hate removing crimps, so I buy once fired .223 brass from Brass Bombers.  They sell it in several stages of processing, but I buy mine cleaned, deprimed and swaged, with the crimp removed.  Ninety Two bucks per thousand seems OK to me.  The quality seems good and I've had to reject only one or two per thousand, but they give you more than promised, so that's nice too.

Of course, if you're after accuracy like I am, these cases take some processing.  I full length resize, trim to the same length, expand the necks to match my neck turning mandrel, neck turn, chamfer, flash hole deburr, primer pocket normalize, SS tumble, anneal, ,neck size, etc..  But if you're just making stuff to blast out of an AR, you can just load them up.

When these cases eventually wear out, I plan to buy another batch of 1000.

I have the tool but always ended up removing to much using the drill. Was considering the rcbs primer pocket swager tool. Have been using chamfer tool tip to hone out the pocket but that has its own problems of going to little or to much. Worked good on 50BMG brass but 308 is a bit harder.