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Posted: 3/6/2015 1:39:37 AM EDT
I acquired some brass and lo and behold it was crimped in 4 places around the hole.....sigh....

I used the Lyman pocket reamer on some and it seemed to work. However, I am getting feedback not to ream because my primers might fall out.

Have you had success at reaming?

THANKS
Link Posted: 3/6/2015 2:42:54 AM EDT
[#1]
I don't know about Lyman reamer. I just prepped some LC 7.62x51 brass. I swaged the primer pockets with the RCBS (old style swager) then reamed them with a RCBS reamer (again old style) then broke the edge with a 45 degree cutter.

These primer pockets are still very tight but not so tight that a RCBS hand priming tool could not be used.

I have done brass before without reaming and those I had to prime on my press because they were so tight.

I suggest you try a test lot of say 10 or so and find out for yourself.

Motor1
Link Posted: 3/6/2015 8:47:24 AM EDT
[#2]
I've used and worn out two lyman reamers, I've read on here of peope loving theirs, but best I can tell, it's an older one that they've had for years.
I got my first one around 2009, and the second one around 2010.  between both of those, they reammed about 1000 peices...




I seem to find that cases reamed using this tool are still not so easy to seat a primer in, but it's impossible to over ream, like it is if you use the deburring tool or 45 degree cutter recomendations.




I know Ive heard a lot more positive things about the hornady tool. Personally, I've moved onto the dillon super swage. after having also tried the RCBS press-mounted tool, which was a pain to get the cases off the ram once they were reamed (though lookinng at the RCBS catalog, maybe my dad lost the part that goes on to help with that, or maybe they offer that part in newer tools, the one I used was borrowed)






Link Posted: 3/6/2015 12:04:09 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 3/6/2015 8:41:39 PM EDT
[#4]
No issue with the Hornady reamer.
Link Posted: 3/6/2015 9:05:54 PM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:

<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Tools/P2240534_zpsb16e4197.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tools/P2240534_zpsb16e4197.jpg</a>

Near drill removing crimp with Hornady reamer, far drill with RCBS uniformer.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I acquired some brass and lo and behold it was crimped in 4 places around the hole.....sigh....

I used the Lyman pocket reamer on some and it seemed to work. However, I am getting feedback not to ream because my primers might fall out.

Lot of posts here that the Lyman reamer does not remove all of the crimp. Mine doesn't either.

What does work is the Hornady reamer, about $10 at Midway. I chuck mine in a drill.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head

The positive stop will not let you over ream.

Too much of the primer pocket will be removed if a makeshift tool is used, Debur tool, countersink, or a #2 Phillips bit. All are a poor practice and should be avoided.

So folks who may have used the wrong tool, may think that reaming will remove too much of the primer pocket. Too bad they never used the correct tool.

Have you had success at reaming? Yes, with the correct tool.

THANKS

<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Tools/P2240534_zpsb16e4197.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tools/P2240534_zpsb16e4197.jpg</a>

Near drill removing crimp with Hornady reamer, far drill with RCBS uniformer.


^ What he said. I use my Hornady reamers, and have never had a problem. Primers still seat quite tightly on true once-fired brass, and it's hard to screw up. Can't beat the price, either.
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