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You are not planning on trying all those powders are you? All of my load development involves me saying "ok I have this one powder, now I am going to make it work" and then I do.
If I were you, I would use that RamShot TAC, just because it meters well and you will be able to get some decent speeds out of it. But then I refuse to trickle, buy a Chargemaster, or even use a single stage press for loading so powder metering is important to me. I didn't see a mention of purpose so I recommend narrowing down the 175SMK and Wolf primers(I wouldn't search to hard for the 210Ms)......unless these guns require a harder primer and the Wolf is not then adjust accordingly I have no idea on that. I never comment on charges, start low work up never fails. Do your own research and I would say you have thoroughly done that. |
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Forget IMR-4350 it's too slow. The most important thing regarding .308 loads is the brass you use. Military surplus brass requires 2.0 full grain powder reductions of published data because of reduced internal capacity. US military brass averages around 179 grains empty, trimmed and de-primed. Commercial cases can be as light as 155 grains empty, trimmed and de-primed.
A lot of powders work well in .308. Semi-auto rifles should not use full power loads designed for use in bolt actions because of the gas operation and weaker locking lugs. Go online and buy a copy of NRA's now out-of-print book, "Semi-Auto Rifles - Data and Comment". It's the bible for loading .308 in semi-auto's when using military brass. You can safely increase there charge weights by 1.0 grain if you substitute Winchester commercial cases. I load for service rifle competition and use 168 grain bullets and Lake City or IMI brass. Federal 210M primers are known to slam fire in M1 Garands converted to .308, they may increase the chance in other styles of semi-autos like M1-A's and AR types. I use Winchester standard large rifle primers mostly. CCI's are tough too. My maximum loads with 168 SNK's for semi-auto M1-A's using military brass are as follows; 40.5 grains of IMR-4895 41.5 grains of IMR-4064 40.0 grains of H4895 39.5 grains of IMR-3031 43.0 grains of WW-748 40.5 grains of AA-2460 The other powders I would recommend are Varget, RE-15, N140 and N150. I get best accuracy with extruded powders most of the time. I don't mind weighing but have a quality (Harrell's) powder measure I trust that throws powder just fine. The charges I posted can be increased 1.0 whole grain when loading Winchester cases. Consider them maximum in military brass. Good Luck. My first pick would be the IMR-4895 or the IMR-4064 loads. Start 1.0 grain lower and load up in .5 grain increments and find what shoots best in your rifle. |
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Beware of your brass...those max loads are for 308 win brass....don't mix any 7.62 brass in there. You gotta back off a couple grains for 762..
Powder his hard to come by for me. All I have is RL15 and IMR4895. I want to pick up some Varget (which I don't see on your list). Most of the good groups I see posted in precision rifle are using Varget but its out of stock everywhere I look. |
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Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any input. View Quote Here is my input to you. 1. Put your chart away. 2. 42.0 gr IMR4064 (work up to this weight and avoid excessive pressure loads). 3. Large rifle primer of your choice but Federal 210M is preferred. 4. Any Sierra MatchKing bullet in the 155 to 190 gr weight range. Most like the 175 gr MK. For the 190 MK, this charge weight is a max load in my rifle. 5. Seat bullet off the lands. 0.010" is far enough off and the lighter bullets could even be seated to mag length. Are you a newbie reloader or new to 308 loading or what? |
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I won't be working up all loads listed. IMR 4350 has already been cut from my list based on further research and input here. I have no plans to work up all these loads at once either. I will start with the 180 gr. Accubonds because those are what I will be using for hunting in a couple weeks. Some of the different bullets will probably even get cut. For example, I have a lot of Nosler 175 gr. CC's and Hornady 178 gr. BTHP Match bullets. If my guns like these then I see no point in buying more of the even more expensive SMK's and A-max's.
I am currently in possession of all the components listed, so availability isn't a huge deal. Brass as mentioned will be .308 Win Lapua. Where does this fall on the scale of H2O capacity? I keep reading that Winchester has the highest internal case capacity. How does Lapua compare? I reload on a single stage and weigh out my charges on an RCBS Chargemaster, so flow characteristics aren't that important at this time. My research indicates that 4064, 4895, 8208-XBR, Tac, and Reloader 15 are all great for .308. Narrowing things down from there will require input from more experienced reloaders. I think it is safe to say that they will all be accurate. Which will provide the best velocity? Which is most temperature stable? I do live in Arizona and it would be nice to avoid having to work up separate loads for winter and summer use. Quoted:
Are you a newbie reloader or new to 308 loading or what? View Quote I'm not new to reloading, but I am new to reloading for precision. Previously, all of my reloading consisted of either loading pistol ammo or cranking out 55 gr. FMJ in .223 that was suitably accurate and stiff enough to reliably cycle the actions on my AR's. |
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Here's some loads I've run through an AR-308 16".....I load these to fit in the mag 2.807-2.81
I've tried several different buffers: H, H2 & a Spikes. No perceived difference was noted in felt recoil or ejection point. Temps from 50F-90+F 165 SST Horn, Win brass, Varget, 45.0 max CFE, 45.0 about max IMR 4895, 43.5 about max Nato brass, 8208, 41.5 about max 168 SMK/AMAX, Win brass, Varget, 46.0 max IMR 4064, 44.0 about max 8208, 41.5 about max CFE, 45.0 about max R-15, 45.0 about max This is what I've got in this weight range. I'm going with a little more speed, so I decided to run 155 Amax's. I just picked up some 125 Accubonds that I'm gonna try. Hope this helps! All the best!!! |
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Please excuse me for asking but what are you going to be hunting with 180gr Accubonds?
With the barrel lengths you posted velocity with the 180s are going to be pretty slow. The Accubond is made to perform at magnum velocity. I would not be surprised that when shot from a .308 Win. that they act like FMJs and simply shoot through without much expansion what ever you are hunting. For long range target shooting I see the point in 168s and up but for hunting with a .308 Win I would not go beyond 165gr and in fact shoot 150s from my 2, .308 Win caliber deer rifles. As far as your start loads go I agree with your choice to skip the very bottom. I like Hornady's manuals because of the wide range of data they provide. Sometimes that data starts below other sources start loads. I think this is where there is a grey area where a listed "minimum" charge is given not a "start" charge. This comes in real handy when you want a light load without going to a "reduced" load. |
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Quoted:
Please excuse me for asking but what are you going to be hunting with 180gr Accubonds? With the barrel lengths you posted velocity with the 180s are going to be pretty slow. The Accubond is made to perform at magnum velocity. I would not be surprised that when shot from a .308 Win. that they act like FMJs and simply shoot through without much expansion what ever you are hunting. For long range target shooting I see the point in 168s and up but for hunting with a .308 Win I would not go beyond 165gr and in fact shoot 150s from my 2, .308 Win caliber deer rifles. View Quote This is a timely post. I want a hunting load for deer this year and possibly elk in the future. I was just running numbers through Strelok and the 180's will be crawling out of a 16" barrel. Midway's product description claims the 180 Accubonds will perform at 1800+ FPS, but I still don't like how slow they will be out of a 16" barrel. I may skip them for .308 and focus on the 165 BT's this go around. I have also been researching Mk 319 Mod 0 and and thinking about trying to develop something with a similar set of parameters (performance out of a 16" barrel) using commercially available bullets (125 gr. SST's and/or 125 gr. BT's), but I don't have either of those on hand at the moment and would be concerned about wind drift for longer shots (500-600 yards). That's a topic for another thread though as I just don't have the time to experiment with it right now. |
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More input from me to you -
If you are hunting, drop all the match target bullets from consideration. My previous post suggested you use Sierra MatchKings. If you are hunting, don't use SMK's. There are many excellent hunting bullets out now. Get some of those. |
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Quoted:
More input from me to you - If you are hunting, drop all the match target bullets from consideration. My previous post suggested you use Sierra MatchKings. If you are hunting, don't use SMK's. There are many excellent hunting bullets out now. Get some of those. View Quote X2. Use Sierra Game Kings instead. They'll shoot great with your SMK data provided the weigh very close to the same ie: 165/168. |
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Quoted:
More input from me to you - If you are hunting, drop all the match target bullets from consideration. My previous post suggested you use Sierra MatchKings. If you are hunting, don't use SMK's. There are many excellent hunting bullets out now. Get some of those. View Quote I won't be using match/target bullets for hunting. Those are on the chart because I will be working up loads for them to use in the same guns for target shooting. |
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Quoted:
More input from me to you - If you are hunting, drop all the match target bullets from consideration. My previous post suggested you use Sierra MatchKings. If you are hunting, don't use SMK's. There are many excellent hunting bullets out now. Get some of those. View Quote I was going to ask that about Amax pills. I'm thinking of using 178 gr amax for deer and pig this year. GTG? |
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urbanredneck,
Generally speaking, target bullets are not intended for hunting. I suggest you contact Hornady and ask them. I have done this a few times in the past with Hornady and with Sierra. They are very happy to give advice. Motor |
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Quoted:
You are not planning on trying all those powders are you? All of my load development involves me saying "ok I have this one powder, now I am going to make it work" and then I do. If I were you, I would use that RamShot TAC, just because it meters well and you will be able to get some decent speeds out of it. But then I refuse to trickle, buy a Chargemaster, or even use a single stage press for loading so powder metering is important to me. I didn't see a mention of purpose so I recommend narrowing down the 175SMK and Wolf primers(I wouldn't search to hard for the 210Ms)......unless these guns require a harder primer and the Wolf is not then adjust accordingly I have no idea on that. I never comment on charges, start low work up never fails. Do your own research and I would say you have thoroughly done that. View Quote I've got a Dillon 650 but I use a RCBS Chargemaster and Rock Chucker for charging and seating .308. The chargemaster is painfully slow if used at factory settings. You can reprogram it though and change a few parameters to vastly speed it up. Mine runs fast enough that buy the time I have seated a bullet on the Rock Chucker the next charge is usually ready so I can keep on charging and seating. I get maybe one 0.1 under charge every 30 throws. I don't press the trickle button to correct this I just tap the tube once and that almost always is enough to correct the undercharge. Progressive presses are going to spill a little powder now and again. It may not be evident at 100 yds but at further distances it can affect things. I had a Hornady LNL and now a 650 and I do 90% of my loading on them. |
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I worked up a pretty good load for my LR308 with the lighter accubonds, 165 gr. Put them on a moderate charge of TAC and a CCI primer. 16" bbl and a 1x4 scope got me 1.5" groups and 2550 fps. Dropped a 4 pt bull with a shoulder shot, bullet expanded very well after breaking both shoulders and stopping just under the hide. I've put pics of the expended accubond on here before. Very capable bullet.
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Quoted:
I worked up a pretty good load for my LR308 with the lighter accubonds, 165 gr. Put them on a moderate charge of TAC and a CCI primer. 16" bbl and a 1x4 scope got me 1.5" groups and 2550 fps. Dropped a 4 pt bull with a shoulder shot, bullet expanded very well after breaking both shoulders and stopping just under the hide. I've put pics of the expended accubond on here before. Very capable bullet. View Quote Could you please re-post the picture here? Also, what distance did you make the shot from? On another note, I loaded up some test rounds for the 165 Ballistic Tips using RL-15, TAC, and 8208-XBR. I'm going to try to test them out tomorrow to see which I like the best. |
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in my experience making match ammo .5 grain steps is WAY to much in .308 at most I will go in .3 steps when working up my match loads if you are looking for an accuracy node.
with .223 I go in .2 grain steps, it seems to be easier to pinpoint the exact charge and .2 has worked well for me (and safer using heavy bullets) when guys go in .5 increments I tend to think they are chasing velocity instead of accuracy. not trying to knock your shooting ability, but if you the shooter are not able to shoot sub MOA then just go with a safe charge that has the velocity you want and just shoot it. |
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Did some more testing with 4064 and TAC at 325 yards but my targets were too small and I ran low on time for that data to be really useful.
On another note, can anyone help me get a velocity estimate from a 16" barrel using 43 gr., 44 gr., and 45., of TAC behind a 165 BT? I've read people say .308 loses about 50 fps per inch of barrel, but if that is correct and I start with the velocities listed in my manuals, my velocity would be under 2400 FPS. That seems pretty low. According to Strelok, 2400 FPS at the muzzle would give me over 70 inches of drop at 500 yards. Should I have picked a lighter bullet for hunting to get a flatter trajectory? |
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Quoted:
Did some more testing with 4064 and TAC at 325 yards but my targets were too small and I ran low on time for that data to be really useful. On another note, can anyone help me get a velocity estimate from a 16" barrel using 43 gr., 44 gr., and 45., of TAC behind a 165 BT? I've read people say .308 loses about 50 fps per inch of barrel, but if that is correct and I start with the velocities listed in my manuals, my velocity would be under 2400 FPS. That seems pretty low. According to Strelok, 2400 FPS at the muzzle would give me over 70 inches of drop at 500 yards. Should I have picked a lighter bullet for hunting to get a flatter trajectory? View Quote I lose/gain 25 to 30 fps per inch of barrel in .308 going from 22" to 26". A total of 100 fps +/- with these barrel lengths. You lose more than that going shorter than 22" because the gas escapes too soon in the combustion process to drive the bullet efficiently. Nobody should be hunting out to 500 yards with a short barrel .308. I think 350 to 400 yards should be a reasonable expectation for your rifle/ammo combination. I'm not saying it won't shoot that far, you will have reduced power and increased wind drift when shooting from that short a barrel. My 22" barrel .308 has 16 moa drop at 600 yards. That turns out to be 96". I would be surprised if your 16" shooting bullets at 2400 fps only has 70" at 500. Hornady has an online BDC calculator. See if you can get an actual chronograph reading then punch in the numbers. A deer doesn't know what speed the bullet is traveling. An accurate 165 grain bullet traveling at 2400 fps has more power than a 170 grain flat point fired from a .30-30 which has killed millions of deer. Don't worry about going fast, shoot for accuracy and work out your bullet drops. |
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I like 43 gr Tac behind a 175 gr SMK in my Sako TRG 20" barrel. I get about 2650 fps.
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A chrono is on the list, but unfortunately hasn't made it to the top yet.
Quoted:
I lose/gain 25 to 30 fps per inch of barrel in .308 going from 22" to 26". A total of 100 fps +/- with these barrel lengths. You lose more than that going shorter than 22" because the gas escapes too soon in the combustion process to drive the bullet efficiently. Nobody should be hunting out to 500 yards with a short barrel .308. I think 350 to 400 yards should be a reasonable expectation for your rifle/ammo combination. I'm not saying it won't shoot that far, you will have reduced power and increased wind drift when shooting from that short a barrel. My 22" barrel .308 has 16 moa drop at 600 yards. That turns out to be 96". I would be surprised if your 16" shooting bullets at 2400 fps only has 70" at 500. Hornady has an online BDC calculator. See if you can get an actual chronograph reading then punch in the numbers. A deer doesn't know what speed the bullet is traveling. An accurate 165 grain bullet traveling at 2400 fps has more power than a 170 grain flat point fired from a .30-30 which has killed millions of deer. Don't worry about going fast, shoot for accuracy and work out your bullet drops. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Did some more testing with 4064 and TAC at 325 yards but my targets were too small and I ran low on time for that data to be really useful. On another note, can anyone help me get a velocity estimate from a 16" barrel using 43 gr., 44 gr., and 45., of TAC behind a 165 BT? I've read people say .308 loses about 50 fps per inch of barrel, but if that is correct and I start with the velocities listed in my manuals, my velocity would be under 2400 FPS. That seems pretty low. According to Strelok, 2400 FPS at the muzzle would give me over 70 inches of drop at 500 yards. Should I have picked a lighter bullet for hunting to get a flatter trajectory? I lose/gain 25 to 30 fps per inch of barrel in .308 going from 22" to 26". A total of 100 fps +/- with these barrel lengths. You lose more than that going shorter than 22" because the gas escapes too soon in the combustion process to drive the bullet efficiently. Nobody should be hunting out to 500 yards with a short barrel .308. I think 350 to 400 yards should be a reasonable expectation for your rifle/ammo combination. I'm not saying it won't shoot that far, you will have reduced power and increased wind drift when shooting from that short a barrel. My 22" barrel .308 has 16 moa drop at 600 yards. That turns out to be 96". I would be surprised if your 16" shooting bullets at 2400 fps only has 70" at 500. Hornady has an online BDC calculator. See if you can get an actual chronograph reading then punch in the numbers. A deer doesn't know what speed the bullet is traveling. An accurate 165 grain bullet traveling at 2400 fps has more power than a 170 grain flat point fired from a .30-30 which has killed millions of deer. Don't worry about going fast, shoot for accuracy and work out your bullet drops. Maximizing velocity out of a short barrel .308 is something I plan on working on once I get more experience working up loads. Maintaining accuracy would of course be a requirement. Am I correct in assuming that a faster burning powder would be ideal for such a goal? As for shooting a deer at 500 yards, I think with a good bullet, good dope, an accurate rifle, and ideal conditions, 500 isn't much of a stretch for a good, clean kill. Of course, if we're talking about grandpa's 30-30 off-hand against a running buck and a 15 mph cross-wind, well that's a different scenario. |
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Huh? 500 yards to shoot a deer? I can stalk up to a couple of hundred yards. Maybe an elk. Bigger target
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16" LaRue Tactical 7.62 PredatOBR w/ Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 FFP. My load was a 165 gr. Nosler Ballistic Tip atop 44.5 gr. of TAC and a CCI 200 primer in Lapua brass. The bullet entered the base of his neck on the right side and exited about 3" or 4" down from his ear on the left.
Full details: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_2_219/255292_.html&page=1 Quoted:
Huh? 500 yards to shoot a deer? I can stalk up to a couple of hundred yards. Maybe an elk. Bigger target View Quote Hunting varies a lot from one area to another. Terrain, vegetation, animal habits, etc., all combine to make different areas unique. Read my thread above to see how hunting in my AO might be different than yours. I ended up shooting him at 345 yards. Could I have gotten closer? Perhaps, but the closer I got the steeper the terrain became and the more noise I made. |
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