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Posted: 10/26/2014 3:52:43 AM EDT
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 10:25:58 AM EDT
[#1]
You are not planning on trying all those powders are you? All of my load development involves me saying "ok I have this one powder, now I am going to make it work" and then I do.

If I were you, I would use that RamShot TAC, just because it meters well and you will be able to get some decent speeds out of it. But then I refuse to trickle, buy a Chargemaster, or even use a single stage press for loading so powder metering is important to me.

I didn't see a mention of purpose so I recommend narrowing down the 175SMK and Wolf primers(I wouldn't search to hard for the 210Ms)......unless these guns require a harder primer and the Wolf is not then adjust accordingly I have no idea on that.


I never comment on charges, start low work up never fails.  Do your own research and I would say you have thoroughly done that.
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 11:26:40 AM EDT
[#2]
Forget IMR-4350 it's too slow. The most important thing regarding .308 loads is the brass you use. Military surplus brass requires 2.0 full grain powder reductions of published data because of reduced internal capacity. US military brass averages around 179 grains empty, trimmed and de-primed. Commercial cases can be as light as 155 grains empty, trimmed and de-primed.

A lot of powders work well in .308. Semi-auto rifles should not use full power loads designed for use in bolt actions because of the gas operation and weaker locking lugs.

Go online and buy a copy of NRA's now out-of-print book, "Semi-Auto Rifles - Data and Comment". It's the bible for loading .308 in semi-auto's when using military brass. You can safely increase there charge weights by 1.0 grain if you substitute Winchester commercial cases.

I load for service rifle competition and use 168 grain bullets and Lake City or IMI brass. Federal 210M primers are known to slam fire in M1 Garands converted to .308, they may increase the chance in other styles of semi-autos like M1-A's and AR types. I use Winchester standard large rifle primers mostly. CCI's are tough too.

My maximum loads with 168 SNK's for semi-auto M1-A's using military brass are as follows;

40.5 grains of IMR-4895
41.5 grains of IMR-4064
40.0 grains  of H4895
39.5 grains of IMR-3031
43.0 grains of WW-748
40.5 grains of AA-2460

The other powders I would recommend are Varget, RE-15, N140 and N150. I get best accuracy with extruded powders most of the time. I don't mind weighing but have a quality (Harrell's) powder measure I trust that throws powder just fine. The charges I posted can be increased 1.0 whole grain when loading Winchester cases. Consider them maximum in military brass. Good Luck. My first pick would be the IMR-4895 or the IMR-4064 loads. Start 1.0 grain lower and load up in .5 grain increments and find what shoots best in your rifle.
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 12:23:36 PM EDT
[#3]
Beware of your brass...those max loads are for 308 win brass....don't mix any 7.62 brass in there. You gotta back off a couple grains for 762..


Powder his hard to come by for me. All I have is RL15 and IMR4895. I want to pick up some Varget (which I don't see on your list). Most of the good groups I see posted in precision rifle are using Varget but its out of stock everywhere I look.
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 2:04:40 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any input.
View Quote


Here is my input to you.

1.  Put your chart away.



2.  42.0 gr IMR4064 (work up to this weight and avoid excessive pressure loads).

3.  Large rifle primer of your choice but Federal 210M is preferred.

4.  Any Sierra MatchKing bullet in the 155 to 190 gr weight range.  Most like the 175 gr MK.  For the 190 MK, this charge weight is a max load in my rifle.

5.  Seat bullet off the lands.  0.010" is far enough off and the lighter bullets could even be seated to mag length.




Are you a newbie reloader or new to 308 loading or what?

Link Posted: 10/26/2014 3:05:48 PM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 3:59:05 PM EDT
[#6]
Here's some loads I've run through an AR-308 16".....I load these to fit in the mag 2.807-2.81
I've tried several different buffers: H, H2 & a Spikes.  No perceived difference was noted in felt recoil or ejection point.
Temps from 50F-90+F

165 SST Horn,  Win brass, Varget, 45.0 max
                                                CFE, 45.0 about max
                                                IMR 4895, 43.5 about max
                              Nato brass, 8208, 41.5 about max

168 SMK/AMAX,  Win brass, Varget, 46.0 max
                                              IMR 4064, 44.0 about max
                                               8208, 41.5 about max
                                               CFE, 45.0 about max
                                               R-15, 45.0 about max

This is what I've got in this weight range. I'm going with a little more speed, so I decided to run 155 Amax's.
I just picked up some 125 Accubonds that I'm gonna try.

Hope this helps!  All the best!!!
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 8:27:21 PM EDT
[#7]
Please excuse me for asking but what are you going to be hunting with 180gr Accubonds?

With the barrel lengths you posted velocity with the 180s are going to be pretty slow. The Accubond is made to perform at magnum velocity. I would not be surprised that when shot from a .308 Win. that they act like FMJs and simply shoot through without much expansion what ever you are hunting.

For long range target shooting I see the point in 168s and up but for hunting with a .308 Win I would not go beyond 165gr and in fact shoot 150s from my 2, .308 Win caliber deer rifles.

As far as your start loads go I agree with your choice to skip the very bottom. I like Hornady's manuals because of the wide range of data they provide. Sometimes that data starts below other sources start loads. I think this is where there is a grey area where a listed "minimum" charge is given not a "start" charge. This comes in real handy when you want a light load without going to a "reduced" load.
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 10:16:18 PM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 10:28:12 PM EDT
[#9]
More input from me to you -

If you are hunting, drop all the match target bullets from consideration.  My previous post suggested you use Sierra MatchKings.  If you are hunting, don't use SMK's. There are many excellent hunting bullets out now.  Get some of those.
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 10:41:49 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
More input from me to you -

If you are hunting, drop all the match target bullets from consideration.  My previous post suggested you use Sierra MatchKings.  If you are hunting, don't use SMK's. There are many excellent hunting bullets out now.  Get some of those.
View Quote


X2. Use Sierra Game Kings instead. They'll shoot great with your SMK data provided the weigh very close to the same ie: 165/168.
Link Posted: 10/26/2014 10:58:14 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 11/1/2014 10:43:08 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
More input from me to you -

If you are hunting, drop all the match target bullets from consideration.  My previous post suggested you use Sierra MatchKings.  If you are hunting, don't use SMK's. There are many excellent hunting bullets out now.  Get some of those.
View Quote



I was going to ask that about Amax pills. I'm thinking of using 178 gr amax for deer and pig this year. GTG?
Link Posted: 11/1/2014 11:09:59 AM EDT
[#13]
urbanredneck,
Generally speaking, target bullets are not intended for hunting.

I suggest you contact Hornady and ask them. I have done this a few times in the past with Hornady and with Sierra. They are very happy to give advice.

Motor
Link Posted: 11/1/2014 3:04:40 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You are not planning on trying all those powders are you? All of my load development involves me saying "ok I have this one powder, now I am going to make it work" and then I do.

If I were you, I would use that RamShot TAC, just because it meters well and you will be able to get some decent speeds out of it. But then I refuse to trickle, buy a Chargemaster, or even use a single stage press for loading so powder metering is important to me.

I didn't see a mention of purpose so I recommend narrowing down the 175SMK and Wolf primers(I wouldn't search to hard for the 210Ms)......unless these guns require a harder primer and the Wolf is not then adjust accordingly I have no idea on that.


I never comment on charges, start low work up never fails.  Do your own research and I would say you have thoroughly done that.
View Quote


I've got a Dillon 650 but I use a RCBS Chargemaster and Rock Chucker for charging and seating .308.  The chargemaster is painfully slow if used at factory settings.  You can reprogram it though and change a few parameters to  vastly speed it up.  Mine runs fast enough that buy the time I have seated a bullet on the Rock Chucker the next charge is usually ready so I can keep on charging and seating.  I get maybe one 0.1 under charge every 30 throws.  I don't press the trickle button to correct this I just tap the tube once and that almost always is enough to correct the undercharge.  Progressive presses are going to spill a little powder now and again.  It may not be evident at 100 yds but at further distances it can affect things.  I had a Hornady LNL and now a 650 and I do 90% of my loading on them.
Link Posted: 11/1/2014 8:45:40 PM EDT
[#15]
I worked up a pretty good load for my LR308 with the lighter accubonds, 165 gr.  Put them on a moderate charge of TAC and a CCI primer.  16" bbl and a 1x4 scope got me 1.5" groups and 2550 fps.    Dropped a 4 pt bull with a shoulder shot, bullet expanded very well after breaking both shoulders and stopping just under the hide.  I've put pics of the expended accubond on here before.   Very capable bullet.
Link Posted: 11/2/2014 12:28:23 AM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 11/2/2014 11:17:37 PM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 11/3/2014 12:28:50 AM EDT
[#18]
Here's my recovered bullet. Smashed thru both shoulder blades and still weighed 122.7 gr.     Range was 40 yds.
 I got lucky, TAC was the first powder I tried, and I got decent groups so I didn't try any others.  I used sierra BTHP for practice/training and the POA was only off a coupl inches.

I don't really know much about load development, I usually load near the middle of the road charge wise. Looks like you have a winner with TAC anyway.



I have a pic of the wound, Pretty impressive and graphic.
Link Posted: 11/3/2014 11:24:19 AM EDT
[#19]
in my experience making match ammo .5 grain steps is WAY to much in .308 at most I will go in .3 steps when working up my match loads if you are looking for an accuracy node.
with .223 I go in .2 grain steps, it seems to be easier to pinpoint the exact charge and .2 has worked well for me (and safer using heavy bullets)

when guys go in .5 increments I tend to think they are chasing velocity instead of accuracy.

not trying to knock your shooting ability, but if you the shooter are not able to shoot sub MOA then just go with a safe charge that has the velocity you want and just shoot it.
Link Posted: 11/4/2014 10:52:10 PM EDT
[#20]
Link Posted: 11/4/2014 11:53:40 PM EDT
[#21]
Get a chrono
Link Posted: 11/5/2014 12:04:01 AM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Did some more testing with 4064 and TAC at 325 yards but my targets were too small and I ran low on time for that data to be really useful.

On another note, can anyone help me get a velocity estimate from a 16" barrel using 43 gr., 44 gr., and 45., of TAC behind a 165 BT?  I've read people say .308 loses about 50 fps per inch of barrel, but if that is correct and I start with the velocities listed in my manuals, my velocity would be under 2400 FPS.  That seems pretty low.  According to Strelok, 2400 FPS at the muzzle would give me over 70 inches of drop at 500 yards.  Should I have picked a lighter bullet for hunting to get a flatter trajectory?
View Quote


I lose/gain 25 to 30 fps per inch of barrel in .308 going from 22" to 26". A total of 100 fps +/- with these barrel lengths. You lose more than that going shorter than 22" because the gas escapes too soon in the combustion process to drive the bullet efficiently.

Nobody should be hunting out to 500 yards with a short barrel .308. I think 350 to 400 yards should be a reasonable expectation for your rifle/ammo combination. I'm not saying it won't shoot that far, you will have reduced power and increased wind drift when shooting from that short a barrel. My 22" barrel .308 has 16 moa drop at 600 yards. That turns out to be 96". I would be surprised if your 16" shooting bullets at 2400 fps only has 70" at 500. Hornady has an online BDC calculator. See if you can get an actual chronograph reading then punch in the numbers.

A deer doesn't know what speed the bullet is traveling. An accurate 165 grain bullet traveling at 2400 fps has more power than a 170 grain flat point fired from a .30-30 which has killed millions of deer. Don't worry about going fast, shoot for accuracy and work out your bullet drops.
Link Posted: 11/5/2014 3:22:02 PM EDT
[#23]
I like 43 gr Tac behind a 175 gr SMK in my Sako TRG 20" barrel.  I get about 2650 fps.
Link Posted: 11/5/2014 7:50:19 PM EDT
[#24]
Sorry, I shot my chrono.  Really.
Link Posted: 11/6/2014 12:02:38 AM EDT
[#25]
Link Posted: 11/6/2014 12:38:54 AM EDT
[#26]
Huh?  500 yards to shoot a deer?  I can stalk up to a couple of hundred yards.   Maybe an elk. Bigger target
Link Posted: 11/9/2014 5:28:29 PM EDT
[#27]
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