Saw that too..

It's an optical illusion due to the lighting & shadowing in the photo.  I just tested it -- the handle has at least 1" to go before making contact with the block of wood that it's mounted on.  Regardless, in that same photo you can see that the linkage is in contact with and being stopped by the linkage stops -- thus, it cannot be extended any further.

So, the small base version of the same die (308 Full Length Small Base X-Die) arrived yesterday and I ran all of the out-of-spec cases through it and what do you know -- they all chambered in the case gauge.

At this point, I'm going to rule myself and my press out of the equation in terms of "doing something wrong".

That leaves either the case gauge or the original die.  So far, all of the factory new cartridges that I've tried in addition to the newly resized cases using the small base die -- all fit the case gauge.

So, what does all this mean?

Here is what we know:

- The case gauge is reamed to approximately minimum SAAMI spec (meaning it has about as large a chamber that is allowed before going out of spec)
- All of the factory new cartridges that I've tested (so far) in the case gauge fit without issue
- The non-small base sizer die cannot size all cases to fit within that minimum SAAMI spec case gauge

Given those 3 fact-based observations, I'm inclined to point to the sizer die.

It's good that you've worked your way through this issue.  


Technical Correction for Completeness - the gage's chamber is as SMALL as can be before going out of spec.






The following is meant only as additional discussion (philosophy) which may help a new reloader.  

I would have come to a different conclusion or taken a different approach but, as you may have read on this forum, people do a lot of things differently.  The key is to be absolutely safe.  

In engineering parlance, your approach is called "designing to the test rather than designing to the requirements".  It is generally frowned upon but is quite common.  You have a tight gage (the test) so you bought a small base die to resize so cases (your design) fit the gage.  You did that despite that fact that the resized brass fit your chamber (the requirement).

Consider this, you could have sent the gage for a refund and bought a Hornady gage set for less money.  You would not have had to buy a small base die.  Your resized brass would better fit your chamber (possibly improving accuracy and case life).  Also, you'd be able to readily measure and adjust how far back you are pushing the shoulder during sizing.

Understood, and I may well still end up doing that way.  Remember, this is super early in this whole new process for me.  Thus, if I end up over-working 50 cases of 308 in the name of being ultra conservative and erring on the side of caution -- so be it.  The name of the game for me for now, is to keep my fingers and face attached.  Once I can establish consistency in accomplishing that feat, then I'll feel more confident in broadening my horizons in the name of accuracy, case life preservation, etc.

That being said, I do appreciate all of the helpful input from those who pitched in.

You are on your way.  You have the right attitude/perspective and a good approach.  Good luck and have fun.

To know how far back you're pushing the shoulder, you need something like Hornady's "Lock n Load Headspace Kit."  

The datum circle on .308 Winchester is 0.400" in diameter, and it should be 1.627" to 1.634 from the base for the "maximum cartridge" headspace per SAAMI specs.  The minimum chamber headspace is 1.630-1.640" (same document).

The way the case looks in your gauge makes me wonder exactly where it's stopping in the gauge.  Can you post a picture that shows one side of the cut out and the side of the case where it touches the gauge there?  I'm kind of thinking it's not the shoulder (it never gets near the shoulder of the gauge) but some part of the body diameter that's not getting sized down enough.

Didn't see it asked, but do any of these dummy rounds fit and chamber smoothly in your rifle? Is it a bolt or semi auto? I use a small base RCBS die set for the brass I have that was shot out of my M1A, and a regular RCBS die set for brass that has already been shot out of my bolt gun.

Checking fit in a bolt gun is pretty simple, just remove the firing pin and spring so you don't have the force of the firing pin cocking when closing the bolt. Not sure how you would do it on a semi auto.