I want to start reloading for .223 /5.56. Which dies, Full Length or Small Base ? I have been reloading for other calibers for 30 yrs just not that familiar with AR platform. My rifle has NATO chamber, 1/7, 16". Are there any tricks to getting the most accuracy out of this combination...particular bullets...powder /burn rate... Any help appreciated. I will be loading primarily for S.D. and occasional deer /pig. I have on hand a variety of bullets...62 lead core, 62 green tip, 64 bonded, 69 match, 75 Scirroco and 77 match.



Please do not post thread titles in all caps. I fixed it for you.



We don't like to be screamed at. dryflash3

I use a Hornady .223 die set for 5.56 and .223 brass in my AR.

While I have a Dillon press, I like a combo of a Dillon resizing die and Lee Pacesetter bullet seating and crimping dies for my necked rifle calibers (.223/5.56, 30-30, .308, and 30-06).  Why?  The Dillon resizing die's expander ball is carbide which doesn't drag and squeak, even without inside case neck lube, while the Lee resizing die expander is steel Lee and needs lube.  However, the Lee seating die is hand adjustable vice the Dillon one that requires a wrench; something that's handy when using various bullet types. I buy the Dillon resizing die and the Lee Pacesetter die set for less than the Dillon set so it's cheaper too.



BTW, I prefer the Lee Deluxe Carbide 4 Die set for pistol calibers over the Dillon set for much the same reason, both the Lee bullet seating and crimping dies are hand adjustable whereas the Dillons take a wrench.

Thanks all for the info.  Keep it coming. Yeah, I read on a bit and found more about FL vs SB dies.  I think I'll try the FL first.  Still want any tricks for accuracy that you have found.

Might want to edit your thread title so it isn't all caps before it gets locked.





I use RCBS small base dies for 223 and 300 AAC; they aren't usually required though, if you get your regular FL sizing die set up correctly.





If you're wanting to get into precision, you might look into a micrometer seating die, allows easier/better control of seating deapth.
I'm in a good mood today, so I fixed the title for the new guy.


^


|___Dryflash, he's a good guy
 

As for tricks for accuracy, the most effective thing you can do is find an accurate bullet, and tune a powder charge to it that your rifle works well with. Neck turning, flash hole uniforming, etc. have very little effect on accuracy - unless you're down to consistent <~0.5 MOA 5-shot groups, you won't likely see any benefit whatsoever from those things, all of which take extra time.

Small Base dies are Full Length dies, they are just a hair smaller at the base. I used Hornady and Lee dies and have an RCBS SB die, the Lee is smoother and I haven't had an issue with a round not wanting to chamber. I like the Hornady die but I need a new decapping rod thanks to some shit brass that jammed in the die. (Yes it was bad brass, the neck would crack in multiple places, it happened in all 3 dies)

I have yet found the need for small base dies .
The more you size the case , the less likely it will wear out or stretch.
For accuracy,size your case and slip it into a case guage or try it in your chambers
the bolt should close easily not too snug.Now your cases will be the most accurately
line up with the bore and chamber.
You don't want to overwork that brass and have your rounds sliding around in the chamber.
Load your ar for reliability first then for accuracy.
Later
John

For most reloading small base die are over kill.

Two examples of uses...
Buying 7.62x51 brass fired in a sloppy chambered MG. A standard FL may not resize the case for use in a standard chambered gun.  
Having a standard factory barreled gun, and then having it rebarrelled with a tight chambered chamber.....

Most 223 chambered by factory are not tight.......so no need to over work your brass......

The selling point of the RCBS AR series dies is that the seater has a built in taper crimp feature versus roll crimp on standard dies...
This is the best way to explain dies
Redding is the Cadillac
Forster is the Buick
RCBS is Chevy
Ford is Hornady
Chrysler is Lyman
Lee is Honda sort of .....

You can get carbide expander balls for most dies....Lyman makes one that works for both lyman and rcbs.
Redding has a direct replacement available.

You get what you pay for.  Buy once and cry once!

Here is a great book for precision handloading for the ar-15:
http://www.zediker.com/books/handloading/hlmain.html

I roll with Dillon carbide. All Dillon rifle dies are small-based, with a carbide expander ball steel or carbide.
Buy once, cry once.

The only place I've found evidence for using small-base dies is with NON-AR self loading rifles chambered for .223 Remington (as opposed to 5.56mm NATO).  And not always with them, either.

Carbide rifle dies cost a whole lot more than steel, and while they'll wear longer (that's the point of the carbide), even Dillon suggests them for "production" remanufacturer applications.  In short, if you're not going to be loading thousands and thousands of rounds every week, you probably won't see a benefit from Dillon's carbide rifle dies.

The "secret" to increasing accuracy with 5.56mm loads is the same as with all other rounds: consistent loading practices and consistent loading processes.  The more identical each component is, and the more identical each loading step is, the more accurate the load will be.  I can't speak to different powder/bullet combinations, in part because some rifles "like" some combinations more than other combinations.  Just like with all other handloading, play around with different round configurations to find out what works best in your rifle.

Although a carbide rifle die will cost as much as three times it's steel counter part, the main reason I chose carbide is the overall ease of use. If loading 1k a pop the carbide is much easier on the press and arm and requires less case lube. It's all about volume and smoothness as I will never were out a steel die.

Fair enough; it's pretty much the same reasons as for using carbide pistol dies.  It's just that first step (buying the dies) is a big one, at least for me.