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There was good weather out today so decided to try some lighter subs/cheap plinking rounds. Got a deal on some 175gr. HPBT 1-2 yrs. ago, for about $.20 per
All locked back on empty with lancer mags, NiB F/A bcg, spikes T2 buffer, and STD spring, Chrono on order so no FPS, but didn't here a crack, also had good ejection patten for both, gas port unknown... 1. 300blk 2. LC blank converted/anneled brass. 3. 1.358 case length 4. Hodgdon LiLGun 5. 8.7gr. 6. 2.10 C.O.L. 9. Tula KVB-223M SR Mag. Primers 10. 10.5 inch FN Hammer Forged Barrel 1:8, Pistol Gas, FA BCG, Lockback on SDN6 Suppressor, and un-suppressed 11. No chrono. This load was noticeably quieter than the second load below... 1. 300blk 2. LC blank converted/anneled brass. 3. 1.358 case length 4. Hodgdon LiLGun 5. 9.0 gr. 6. 2.21 C.O.L. 9. Tula KVB-223M SR Mag. Primers 10. 10.5 inch FN Hammer Forged Barrel 1:8, Pistol Gas, Lockback on SDN6 Suppressor, and un-suppresed 11. No chrono. Update: Tested on my 8.5" CMMG Wasp 1:8 upper. When suppressed had lock back, when un suppressed had FTF with both loads, Swapped to Semi NiB BCG, and feed fine but did not lock back on empty mag. I don't plan on shooting unsuppressed much so I may be getting close to shooting these on paper to test for accuracy, and hope to have my chrono soon. This also makes me think my 10.5" FN might be slightly over gassed, maybe... This is my load, and my testing, with my equipment, your result may vary, so use at your own risk, and please follow safe reloading practices... |
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Originally Posted By tripleduece:
Your post helped me decide to try out those palmetto projos and buy a sampler pack from them. Shipping was quick! I tried your recipe and im very happy on the results! My AR pistol set-up consists of an 8.3 Ballistic advantage Hanson Profile Premium Stainless barrel (pistol gas), Nitride Aim BCG and and H2 buffer. My suppressor is a SiCo Specwar 762. It shoots and sounds great! Only thing is im not getting bolt-hold open on last shot. I may switch to a standard carbine buffer or kick-up the powder a bit. I also noticed unburnt powder in the chamber area. Im not too concerned with BHO since this a range fun gun for me. Furthest I shot was 25 yards but grouped decently. Thank you for sharing your 300 blackout load. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By tripleduece:
Originally Posted By mizzarley:
Loaded and tested 203gr subsonic rounds today. All locked back on emty with both a pmag and usgi mag with magpul follower. I don't have a chrono so no FPS. Also note these did NOT lock back with out my suppressor, an AAC 7.62sd. Sounded like a staplegun. 1. 300blk 2. LC converted brass. 3. 1.36 case length 4. BlackoutBrass 5. 203gr powder coated 6. Imr 4227 7. 9gr 8. 1.97 OAL 9. Cci small rifle #400 10. 8.5 inch Rainer Arms ultramatch bbl pistol gas in custom built sbr. 11. No chrono. Pic of rifle. It was muddy but fun today. http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m520/mizzarly/d9548356a23b152229fc91628d57ab6c.jpg Your post helped me decide to try out those palmetto projos and buy a sampler pack from them. Shipping was quick! I tried your recipe and im very happy on the results! My AR pistol set-up consists of an 8.3 Ballistic advantage Hanson Profile Premium Stainless barrel (pistol gas), Nitride Aim BCG and and H2 buffer. My suppressor is a SiCo Specwar 762. It shoots and sounds great! Only thing is im not getting bolt-hold open on last shot. I may switch to a standard carbine buffer or kick-up the powder a bit. I also noticed unburnt powder in the chamber area. Im not too concerned with BHO since this a range fun gun for me. Furthest I shot was 25 yards but grouped decently. Thank you for sharing your 300 blackout load. Nice, glad they worked for you too. |
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How the hell did we win that game?
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I got the time, and started detail-cleaning my 300 upper. I found copper on the bolt tail - this is the first time I've seen that, or at least the first time I've noticed it on any of my ARs. It's not an issue, just something to note. I think I'll pay close attention to the barrel around the gas port to see if there is extra gunk around there. No extra gunk around the gas port. I'm thinking this is due to the barrel's pistol-length gas port location.
The lower hardly needed any attention at all. The hammer face had some soot on it, but there was almost nothing in the FCG pocket. The gun has been exclusively fired with the following ammo: Remington/Barnes' 120gr OTFB commercial, and my reloads with H110, Lil' Gun, and IMR 4227. After running commercial .223 and GI/GI-like 5.56 in a number of rifles, I'm liking this lack of gunk! |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
I got the time, and started detail-cleaning my 300 upper. I found copper on the bolt tail - this is the first time I've seen that, or at least the first time I've noticed it on any of my ARs. It's not an issue, just something to note. I think I'll pay close attention to the barrel around the gas port to see if there is extra gunk around there. I'm thinking this is due to the barrel's pistol-length gas port location. The lower hardly needed any attention at all. The hammer face had some soot on it, but there was almost nothing in the FCG pocket. The gun has been exclusively fired with the following ammo: Remington/Barnes' 120gr OTFB commercial, and my reloads with H110, Lil' Gun, and IMR 4227. After running commercial .223 and GI/GI-like 5.56 in a number of rifles, I'm liking this lack of gunk! View Quote Mine did the same thing with the copper on the bolt tail. Went away after a few hundred rounds. Probably from a burr left behind when drilling the gas port, maybe. |
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I WILL NOT COMPLY
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I was reading all day yesterday and still have no idea which way to go as far as full length seating and sizing? I do believe I should get a Lee FCD though. As long as I do my part and follow proper reloading technique what am I gaining over the other when choosing between RCBS, Hornady, Forster or Redding?
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Ladies and gentlemen Mr. Conway Twitty...
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Originally Posted By andrewz71:
There was good weather out today so decided to try some lighter subs/cheap plinking rounds. Got a deal on some 175gr. HPBT 1-2 yrs. ago, for about $.20 per All locked back on empty with lancer mags, NiB F/A bcg, spikes T2 buffer, and STD spring, Chrono on order so no FPS, but didn't here a crack, also had good ejection patten for both, gas port unknown... 1. 300blk 2. LC blank converted/anneled brass. 3. 1.358 case length 4. Hodgdon LiLGun 5. 8.7gr. 6. 2.10 C.O.L. 9. Tula KVB-223M SR Mag. Primers 10. 10.5 inch FN Hammer Forged Barrel 1:8, Pistol Gas, FA BCG, Lockback on SDN6 Suppressor, and un-suppressed 11. No chrono. This load was noticeably quieter than the second load below... 1. 300blk 2. LC blank converted/anneled brass. 3. 1.358 case length 4. Hodgdon LiLGun 5. 9.0 gr. 6. 2.21 C.O.L. 9. Tula KVB-223M SR Mag. Primers 10. 10.5 inch FN Hammer Forged Barrel 1:8, Pistol Gas, Lockback on SDN6 Suppressor, and un-suppresed 11. No chrono. Update: Tested on my 8.5" CMMG Wasp 1:8 upper. When suppressed had lock back, when un suppressed had FTF with both loads, Swapped to Semi NiB BCG, and feed fine but did not lock back on empty mag. I don't plan on shooting unsuppressed much so I may be getting close to shooting these on paper to test for accuracy, and hope to have my chrono soon. This also makes me think my 10.5" FN might be slightly over gassed, maybe... This is my load, and my testing, with my equipment, your result may vary, so use at your own risk, and please follow safe reloading practices... View Quote Played with this round some more yesterday. First worked another 10 rounds at 8.6gr. lilgun. I still had proper function as long as suppressed, a couple times I thought I heard a sonic crack, so I decided to work down to 8.3gr. All cyled, and Locked back on 10.5" suppressed with FA BCG, and the same on the 8.5" with Semi BCG. Unsuppressed on the 10.5" I had lock back but the spent case would drop by my feet or be extracted from chamber but sitting loose on top of the mag. Magnetospeed v3 Chrono should be here as well as my stamp for my specwar 7.62 in a couple days So I plan to load a few more and really see where I am at. Updated 4-22-15 1. 300blk 2. LC blank converted/anneled brass. 3. 1.358 case length 4. Hodgdon LiLGun 5. 8.3 gr. 6. 2.10 C.O.L. 9. Tula KVB-223M SR Mag. Primers 10. 8.5 inch CMMG wasp 1.7 barrel, Pistol Gas, FA BCG, Lockback on Specwar 7.62 Suppressor 11. 1077 fps avg. 1. 300blk 2. LC blank converted/anneled brass. 3. 1.358 case length 4. Hodgdon LiLGun 5. 8.7gr. 6. 2.10 C.O.L. 9. Tula KVB-223M SR Mag. Primers 10. 8.5 inch CMMG wasp 1.7 barrel, Pistol Gas, FA BCG, Lockback on Specwar 7.62 Suppressor 11. 1058 fps avg.. 1. 300blk 2. LC blank converted/anneled brass. 3. 1.358 case length 4. Hodgdon LiLGun 5. 9.0 gr. 6. 2.21 C.O.L. 9. Tula KVB-223M SR Mag. Primers 10. 8.5 inch CMMG wasp 1.7 barrel, Pistol Gas, FA BCG, Lockback on Specwar 7.62 Suppressor 11. 1168 fps avg.. I might go down to 8.0 gr. and see about lock back, but I think I am about to the limit. As you can see .1 gr. only made about 25 fps difference, and that was with a 8.5" barrel. I will test it on my 10.5" as well, and update.... |
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Yes, I do know what caused my 8 kids. Don't you?
WV, USA
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Question about what you guys are seeing with how far your brass gets thrown upon ejection. My subs are only going around 5 feet from me if I'm sitting down, and all going to around my 4:00 in a nice pile. The supers, though (110 grain black tips over 20 grains of w296) are flying about 15 feet to my 4:00. I've always had a brass catcher on it, so I didn't realize they were kicking out that far. Fwiw, I'm using a standard carbine spring and lightweight buffer since I was having some issues with the spikes buffer and heavy spring contributing to ftf problems with the subs. Should I change out the buffers (at least) to see if it'll stop throwing them so far or just not worry about it?
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Luke 22:36 - And Jesus said to them, "But now, whoever has a money belt is to take it along, likewise also a bag, and whoever has no sword is to sell his coat and buy one.
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Originally Posted By rob99rt:
Question about what you guys are seeing with how far your brass gets thrown upon ejection. My subs are only going around 5 feet from me if I'm sitting down, and all going to around my 4:00 in a nice pile. The supers, though (110 grain black tips over 20 grains of w296) are flying about 15 feet to my 4:00. I've always had a brass catcher on it, so I didn't realize they were kicking out that far. Fwiw, I'm using a standard carbine spring and lightweight buffer since I was having some issues with the spikes buffer and heavy spring contributing to ftf problems with the subs. Should I change out the buffers (at least) to see if it'll stop throwing them so far or just not worry about it? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote It looks like you tried the heavy buffer and spring, decided it wasn't working, and went to the lighter side of standard. Have you tried using a standard buffer instead of the lightweight one? From the way you report your supers' ejection, I don't think a standard carbine buffer will hurt that. The only way to tell if a standard carbine buffer gives you trouble with your subsonic rounds is to try it and see. It can't hurt to try. |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Yes, I do know what caused my 8 kids. Don't you?
WV, USA
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Originally Posted By GHPorter:
It looks like you tried the heavy buffer and spring, decided it wasn't working, and went to the lighter side of standard. Have you tried using a standard buffer instead of the lightweight one? From the way you report your supers' ejection, I don't think a standard carbine buffer will hurt that. The only way to tell if a standard carbine buffer gives you trouble with your subsonic rounds is to try it and see. It can't hurt to try. View Quote If I leave the lighter buffer in it, do I risk damaging anything, though? I'd rather not tear something up, you know? I'll dig around in the parts box and see what I have and weigh them all out. I'll try the different ones and see which of them will still eject with the subs reliably. I know the spikes won't and the lightweight one will, but i know I have a couple other buffers to try. I still have probably 50-60 of the subs to go through before all of that batch of brass has been fired once, so I have some rounds to play around with still. |
Luke 22:36 - And Jesus said to them, "But now, whoever has a money belt is to take it along, likewise also a bag, and whoever has no sword is to sell his coat and buy one.
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First off, which Spikes buffer do you have, and what "lightweight" buffer do you have?
A standard carbine buffer weighs about 2.9 oz and has about 1.9 oz of reciprocating steel weights in it. The reciprocating weights slow the change in movement, so the carrier starts going back slower and later starts going forward slower (thus preventing bolt bounce if you're using the right buffer). The Spikes T1 buffer weighs about 3 oz, the T2 weighs 4 oz, and the T3 weighs 5.4 oz (that's what a rifle buffer weighs!). The T1 and T2 have no reciprocating mass - they are weighted with tungsten powder. This is supposed to "prevent bolt bounce." The T3 has specially designed weights to "prevent bolt bounce" as well. Depending on which lightweight buffer you have, your 15' ejection distance with supers might be reined in with a standard buffer. I'd take a standard buffer with you to the range next time you go. Swap it in when you shoot some subs and see if it still ejects ok. If it does, see how the supers eject with that buffer. If the standard buffer keeps the subs from ejecting, just leave the lightweight buffer in. |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
So just about got my first BO upper together and have some factory ammo and some bullets of a few different weights, some imr 4227 and h110 to play with.
Question, i am using a Lee single stage, have a new set of hornady dies and have a Lee case guage, Any problems with the lee? have heard a few people saying there not ideal? I will be reloading mixed brass and LC stuff..thanx |
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Originally Posted By mustangfreek:
So just about got my first BO upper together and have some factory ammo and some bullets of a few different weights, some imr 4227 and h110 to play with. Question, i am using a Lee single stage, have a new set of hornady dies and have a Lee case guage, Any problems with the lee? have heard a few people saying there not ideal? I will be reloading mixed brass and LC stuff..thanx View Quote By Lee case gauge, are referring to the trimmer setup they make? If so, you are right it isn't ideal. Others are much better. If using mixed brass, be careful of neck thickness. Must be .013 or below after forming. After seating the total neck diameter must be .334 or less. Be sure to make a couple dummies to check function in YOUR chamber. ETA clarity. |
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To add on, if it's just the Lee trimmer, it doesn't check shoulder position. It's just a length gauge. You need to have some way to make sure you're adjusting your sizer die sufficiently, like a L.E. Wilson-type cartridge gauge, or a headspace comparator gauge (like Hornady's).
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Sorry, yes LE wilson case guage.
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Be aware that L.E. Wilson gauges don't measure diameter... So you need to make sure you do measurements of your first few converted cases to make sure they are being sized appropriately. Not like they won't be, but be sure because your gauge won't tell you.
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
My wife is awesome. Bought me a set of rcbs 300 blackout dies for my birthday. I sized a few cases I had cut down and made a few dummy rounds with some Hornady 150 rn and Speer hot cor bullets. Pleased with the results. Just need to increase my intensity for my powder search now that I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel with this project.
10.5" frankenbuilt pistol. Still need to get the upper parts kit, gas block and tube, muzzle device, bcg and charging handle. Hope to fire this thing this summer. I am trying to find lil gun or 4227 as I plan to stay around 150 grain bullets. Getting pretty pumped! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Anybody have any data for lil gun charge amounts using Missouri bullet company 245gr hitek coated flat point?
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Yes, I do know what caused my 8 kids. Don't you?
WV, USA
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Luke 22:36 - And Jesus said to them, "But now, whoever has a money belt is to take it along, likewise also a bag, and whoever has no sword is to sell his coat and buy one.
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By rob99rt: Yep. See my post in this thread back on 4/13. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By rob99rt: Originally Posted By richiemfmead: Anybody have any data for lil gun charge amounts using Missouri bullet company 245gr hitek coated flat point? Yep. See my post in this thread back on 4/13. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
With the 150 gr Hornady Spitzer, I'm at 15.5 grs Lil'Gun with no pressure signs and good accuracy. Formed cases from RP 223 brass, Magtech 7 1/2, 16 inch CMMG barrel, OAL 2.070. View Quote Did you chronograph this load? I've been using W296 with my M80 bullets, getting 2010 fps with 17 grains. I'm running low on that powder, but found some Lil'Gun and want to duplicate the velocity if I can. |
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Today I was able to get 203gr palmetto projectiles to lock the bolt back with 9.4gr of IMR 4227 at 2.00" COAL. It would only lock back using my Saker. 8.2" CMMG barrel and standard everything else.
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Originally Posted By mk4dubbin:
Today I was able to get 203gr palmetto projectiles to lock the bolt back with 9.4gr of IMR 4227 at 2.00" COAL. It would only lock back using my Saker. 8.2" CMMG barrel and standard everything else. View Quote Interesting, did accuracy or noise suppression change? |
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How the hell did we win that game?
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Can't argue with those results!!! The best I can do on my Lee auto pro PM is 9.1-9.2 gr of imr4227. I switched to standard carbine buffer and still cant get bolt hold open. I also changed my primers to Wolf SR Magnum and I noticed less unburnt powder. Anyway, I think im not going to worry about BHO. Its not for self denfense anyway. Thanks.
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Originally Posted By tripleduece:
Interesting, did accuracy or noise suppression change? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By tripleduece:
Originally Posted By mk4dubbin:
Today I was able to get 203gr palmetto projectiles to lock the bolt back with 9.4gr of IMR 4227 at 2.00" COAL. It would only lock back using my Saker. 8.2" CMMG barrel and standard everything else. Interesting, did accuracy or noise suppression change? I have not tested for accuracy yet. I've solely been focused on BHO. All 9.4gr rounds stayed subsonic, but obviously still louder than a lower charge. Sounds like a staple gun. |
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Originally Posted By mizzarley:
My load of the 203g Palmettos with 9g of 4227 didn't lock back without a suppressor either. I plan on running it 100% with the can anyway so I'm not worried about. This happened a couple days ago. http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m520/mizzarly/4bc99fa04c3a2eef52593a6eb5679f8c.jpg 15 yards standing unsupported. 5 shots. View Quote Wish I had somewhere to shoot that looked like that! You must be on the dryside? |
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Originally Posted By mk4dubbin:
Wish I had somewhere to shoot that looked like that! You must be on the dryside? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mk4dubbin:
Originally Posted By mizzarley:
My load of the 203g Palmettos with 9g of 4227 didn't lock back without a suppressor either. I plan on running it 100% with the can anyway so I'm not worried about. This happened a couple days ago. http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m520/mizzarly/4bc99fa04c3a2eef52593a6eb5679f8c.jpg 15 yards standing unsupported. 5 shots. Wish I had somewhere to shoot that looked like that! You must be on the dryside? Yup, that's public land about 20min from my house. |
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How the hell did we win that game?
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I could use some load data. I'm wanting to load MBC 245gr. blackout bullets. Powders on hand include :
4227 1680 limited qty lil gun limited qty win 296 2400--has anyone used this? Looking to load subs for a handi rifle. Will have a can on it when my stamp comes back. |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By steelworker: I could use some load data. I'm wanting to load MBC 245gr. blackout bullets. Powders on hand include : 4227 1680 limited qty lil gun limited qty win 296 2400--has anyone used this? Looking to load subs for a handi rifle. Will have a can on it when my stamp comes back. View Quote This question was asked and answered in the last page or so in this thread. |
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Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
What kind of brass is everyone tried?
Trying to save my LC for 223, but have so much other brass, PMC, PSD, etc. Anyone have problems with too thick of necks? |
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Originally Posted By We-rBorg:
What kind of brass is everyone tried? Trying to save my LC for 223, but have so much other brass, PMC, PSD, etc. Anyone have problems with too thick of necks? View Quote YES. if you don't sort by neck thickness, you will end up ruining perfectly good brass. Learn this list: Good-bad brass list |
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Originally Posted By snowshooter:
YES. if you don't sort by neck thickness, you will end up ruining perfectly good brass. Learn this list: Good-bad brass list View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By snowshooter:
Originally Posted By We-rBorg:
What kind of brass is everyone tried? Trying to save my LC for 223, but have so much other brass, PMC, PSD, etc. Anyone have problems with too thick of necks? YES. if you don't sort by neck thickness, you will end up ruining perfectly good brass. Learn this list: Good-bad brass list Be careful about the good/bad list. Entries on it weren't verified by anyone, and you'll see some entries that are on both sides... Keeping an eye on the consistency of neck thickness is great, but don't blindly go by that list. |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Be careful about the good/bad list. Entries on it weren't verified by anyone, and you'll see some entries that are on both sides... Keeping an eye on the consistency of neck thickness is great, but don't blindly go by that list. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By snowshooter:
Originally Posted By We-rBorg:
What kind of brass is everyone tried? Trying to save my LC for 223, but have so much other brass, PMC, PSD, etc. Anyone have problems with too thick of necks? YES. if you don't sort by neck thickness, you will end up ruining perfectly good brass. Learn this list: Good-bad brass list Be careful about the good/bad list. Entries on it weren't verified by anyone, and you'll see some entries that are on both sides... Keeping an eye on the consistency of neck thickness is great, but don't blindly go by that list. Yes, it isn't gospel, but it is better than blindly ruining PPU brass only to find that it will never work. I also don't ever cut PMC because I have cut some that worked, and some that didn't; it is on both lists and I can't identify the headstamp difference. I have even cut LC that didn't work. It is a good guide and will get the failure potential to single digit % instead of 30% like my first batch done without looking at the list. Always check the neck thickness after converting. KNOW that it is good before you load it. |
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I think it's more of a list of "try some of these yourself." I cut, annealed, formed and trimmed several hundred cases before I found that list, and several of the "bad" headstamps were just fine for me.
On the other hand, it's probably a good idea to try to stick to a few specific brands, just to keep things consistent. Not that neck thickness is a non-issue, but it's not the only issue. And it depends on what you're making your cases for, too. For plinking rounds, I don't care much about what headstamp the case has, but for the rounds I'm going to be loading with costlier bullets, I'll go to the trouble of keeping things as consistent as possible, including sticking with a recognized "good" brass brand. |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Good advice, but that list helped me out and might help out others. A classic case of YMMV.
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By We-rBorg: What kind of brass is everyone tried? Trying to save my LC for 223, but have so much other brass, PMC, PSD, etc. Anyone have problems with too thick of necks? View Quote Good list, The only headstamp I avoid is FC. For the obvious reasons. (if you don't know why, do some reading at the top of the page) From the bad list, I have had no problems with RORG and S&B. Myself, I don't place much confidence in that list. Also I'm a firm believer in annealing the cut off case before forming the shoulder. |
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Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Also I'm a firm believer in annealing the cut off case before forming the shoulder. View Quote I formed several dozen cases without annealing, before I got everything I needed to do the annealing, just to see how the process went. It was noticeably harder to form the cases that weren't annealed. Not "oh my God!" hard, but they did take more effort on my Rock Chucker with Hornady dies and home-brew lube, compared to the annealed cases. |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
I annealed every case that I have formed. My first batch was very mixed and had 30% with too thick necks. Matched that list perfectly.
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Is it worthwhile to ream out the necks with say a letter N drill bit?
(Like the guys who convert .223 brass into 7.62X25 Tokarev brass) |
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Originally Posted By GHPorter:
On Tuesday I finally got to test out my 8" barreled 300 Blackout upper, and to test a bunch of loads. It was fun until my Bushnell scope's reticle decided to lean to the right, but that's a different story. I tested 4 different bullet/powder combinations, and chronographed all of the shots. Though I only had a 25 yard range to work with, I think I got useful accuracy data, though I'm not happy with my technique or the "bench" (a plastic picnic table) I had to work with. All rounds fed and the bolt locked on all four of the different combinations, as well as the factory Remington (Barnes) 120 gr OTFB loads I used to verify the gun worked. First was .308" 110 gr round nose bullets intended for .30 Carbine, loaded with H110 to an OAL of 1.930". I loaded up 5 shots each at charges from 18.8 to 19.4 gr. I got my best groups and smallest variations in velocity at 19.2 gr, with an average velocity of 2122 fps (15' from muzzle). No feeding problems whatsoever. I hope this isn't a fluke with just my gun, but these bullets were loaded to the length indicated by the .250 diameter meeting the magazine rib... Maybe others can try it out and see if it works for them. Next was Sierra's 110 gr HP Varminter bullets. I loaded a batch of these with H110, and another batch with Lil' Gun, to Sierra's recommended OAL of 1.970". Best loads with H110 were with 19.8 gr with an average MV of 2113, and the best Lil' Gun loads were with 17 gr giving an average MV of 2024 fps. The slightly slower Lil' Gun load made a MUCH smaller pattern on the target than the H110 load. I have a favorite for this bullet now. Finally I tested loads with Hornady's 150gr FMJ bullet and IMR 4227. I have another set with that bullet loaded over Lil' Gun, but my scope failure kept me from testing those. My lowest SD with this combination was 2fps with a powder charge of 17.5 gr, but with 17.2 gr I had only an SD of 4fps, and possibly smaller groups. It's hard to tell because my groups changed as the scope reticle shifted. Conclusions: With MY GUN and the right OAL, I can shoot .30 Carbine bullets. I like Sierra's 110 gr Varminter bullet, which seems to do nicely with nicely efficient powder charges. 150 gr FMJs work fine, but I'm not sure which load to use with them - I need to mount my (arrived Tuesday AFTER I got home from the range) Nikon P-300 scope and try these loads at a longer distance. Gee, more "need" to spend a day at the range... View Quote I ran this experiment about a year ago... I got very consistent 0.970-0.976" groups using 17.4gr of 4227 I dismantled that upper and gave the barrel to a freind to try and get him started in .300BLK.. I should have kept it..lol |
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Originally Posted By rangermonroe:
and Obama might turn out to be a good President, and skittles might fly out of my ass and turn into unicorn seeds. All are equally likely. |
"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
That's good to hear. I'll make up some more of both the 17.2 and 17.3, and some with 17.4, and see how they do in my barrel. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By Wayward_Texan:
I ran this experiment about a year ago... I got very consistent 0.970-0.976" groups using 17.4gr of 4227. That's good to hear. I'll make up some more of both the 17.2 and 17.3, and some with 17.4, and see how they do in my barrel. CCI #450's, LC brass and a hard crimp OAL 2.08" it's a compressed load |
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Originally Posted By rangermonroe:
and Obama might turn out to be a good President, and skittles might fly out of my ass and turn into unicorn seeds. All are equally likely. |
Nosler make a accubond bullet for the blackout ?
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I am using my new Andro Corp pistol build: 10.5 inch, pistol length gas, carbine buffer.
accurate 1680 6.2 grains cci magnum small rifle primers 220 grain nosler hpbt 2.05 coal I am getting lock back. Most of the data I have is for 16 inch barrels. This thread is greatly appreciated and this is a long ways ladder down from the 10 grain starting point. Just curious if anyone is working in this range of powder charge. Is there a better source of pistol data? I have not tested for accuracy at all yet. Thank you. |
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Originally Posted By mizzarley
Can we all agree now that the D's and R's are the same fucks who are just pimping for control and tax dollars? |
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
I am using my new Andro Corp pistol build: 10.5 inch, pistol length gas, carbine buffer. accurate 1680 6.2 grains cci magnum small rifle primers 220 grain nosler hpbt 2.05 coal I am getting lock back. Most of the data I have is for 16 inch barrels. This thread is greatly appreciated and this is a long ways ladder down from the 10 grain starting point. Just curious if anyone is working in this range of powder charge. Is there a better source of pistol data? I have not tested for accuracy at all yet. Thank you. View Quote 6.2 grains? The lowest I have ever gone was 9.5 and those rounds were very unreliable. Most of my subs are at 10.6 grains. |
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Originally Posted By saabdrifter:
6.2 grains? The lowest I have ever gone was 9.5 and those rounds were very unreliable. Most of my subs are at 10.6 grains. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By saabdrifter:
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
I am using my new Andro Corp pistol build: 10.5 inch, pistol length gas, carbine buffer. accurate 1680 6.2 grains cci magnum small rifle primers 220 grain nosler hpbt 2.05 coal I am getting lock back. Most of the data I have is for 16 inch barrels. This thread is greatly appreciated and this is a long ways ladder down from the 10 grain starting point. Just curious if anyone is working in this range of powder charge. Is there a better source of pistol data? I have not tested for accuracy at all yet. Thank you. 6.2 grains? The lowest I have ever gone was 9.5 and those rounds were very unreliable. Most of my subs are at 10.6 grains. That's what it is 6.2-6.3 grains I checked every other scaled weight with my hornady digital scale. Do the magnum primers make that much of a difference? This is my first pistol length gas system. I am in FL and it is warmer now. I am using magpul straight 20 magazines. I also loaded up some of mcnastys made projectiles no ftf or fte and lock back on last round. I mean how is this doing this so reliably? Thank you for your reply. |
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Originally Posted By mizzarley
Can we all agree now that the D's and R's are the same fucks who are just pimping for control and tax dollars? |
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