User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 6/1/2020 10:44:34 PM EDT
[#1]
Back to 300 blk discussion, and use the tacked thread for WTF.
 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/1/2020 11:14:04 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Back to 300 blk discussion, and use the tacked thread for WTF. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/2/2020 12:02:17 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lilMAC25: The reviews on the Everglades page have multiple charges listed for 1680. https://www.evergladesammo.com/300-blackout-220gr-plated-bullets.html Link for review purposes only. Thanks I saw some of those. Are there any manuals that are better than others for 300BLK reloading data? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/2/2020 12:05:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: laxman09]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lilMAC25: The reviews on the Everglades page have multiple charges listed for 1680. https://www.evergladesammo.com/300-blackout-220gr-plated-bullets.html Link for review purposes only. double tap |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/2/2020 9:45:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: lilMAC25]
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By laxman09: Thanks I saw some of those. Are there any manuals that are better than others for 300BLK reloading data? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By laxman09: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: The reviews on the Everglades page have multiple charges listed for 1680. https://www.evergladesammo.com/300-blackout-220gr-plated-bullets.html Link for review purposes only. Thanks I saw some of those. Are there any manuals that are better than others for 300BLK reloading data? I started with Nosler and then got the Hornady. I often just use published online data or data from people I trust online. Then I start low, just in case, and work up. 300 is the only thing I reload at the moment and it’s fairly forgiving. For instance, when loading subs, double charges are extremely easy to detect. Just look and see if the powder is near the case mouth. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/5/2020 9:13:42 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lilMAC25: I started with Nosler and then got the Hornady. I often just use published online data or data from people I trust online. Then I start low, just in case, and work up. 300 is the only thing I reload at the moment and it’s fairly forgiving. For instance, when loading subs, double charges are extremely easy to detect. Just look and see if the powder is near the case mouth. I'll add that 300 Blackout itself is forgiving, but some parts of loading it are only mostly forgiving. The things that aren't so forgiving are certain powders (H110, for example), and COAL for various bullets - based on ogive shape - with standard 5.56mm magazines. I haven't had a chance to try out my Magpul 300 Blackout PMags yet, but they (and other 300-specific magazines) may change the second part of that caveat. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/6/2020 12:00:39 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: I'll add that 300 Blackout itself is forgiving, but some parts of loading it are only mostly forgiving. The things that aren't so forgiving are certain powders (H110, for example), and COAL for various bullets - based on ogive shape - with standard 5.56mm magazines. I haven't had a chance to try out my Magpul 300 Blackout PMags yet, but they (and other 300-specific magazines) may change the second part of that caveat. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: I started with Nosler and then got the Hornady. I often just use published online data or data from people I trust online. Then I start low, just in case, and work up. 300 is the only thing I reload at the moment and it’s fairly forgiving. For instance, when loading subs, double charges are extremely easy to detect. Just look and see if the powder is near the case mouth. I'll add that 300 Blackout itself is forgiving, but some parts of loading it are only mostly forgiving. The things that aren't so forgiving are certain powders (H110, for example), and COAL for various bullets - based on ogive shape - with standard 5.56mm magazines. I haven't had a chance to try out my Magpul 300 Blackout PMags yet, but they (and other 300-specific magazines) may change the second part of that caveat. Fantastic points. |
|
|
|
WA, USA
|
Posted: 6/10/2020 12:49:16 AM EDT
[#8]
I'm done with 1680. It's too dirty and too loud.
What do you guys have for quiet, clean, subsonic loads? Factory Aero 8" pistol upper, suppressed. Bullet is Nosler CC 190 grain. I've got a smattering of powders. Tried some Reloader 7 yesterday with good results. |
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 6/10/2020 3:39:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Effenpig]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By czgunner: I'm done with 1680. It's too dirty and too loud. What do you guys have for quiet, clean, subsonic loads? Factory Aero 8" pistol upper, suppressed. Bullet is Nosler CC 190 grain. I've got a smattering of powders. Tried some Reloader 7 yesterday with good results. Saw your other post. Lil'gun is good for supers but not so much for the subs. Whenever you have a high density powder with low charge weight you are going to get extreme SDs from powder position I've always had better results from 220's than 190's For powders Viht N110 and N120 followed by IMR4227 will be the best choices Reloaded 7 never really panned out for me. IIRC a bit loud and poor accuracy. |
|
|
SC, USA
|
Posted: 6/10/2020 2:58:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By czgunner: I'm done with 1680. It's too dirty and too loud. What do you guys have for quiet, clean, subsonic loads? Factory Aero 8" pistol upper, suppressed. Bullet is Nosler CC 190 grain. I've got a smattering of powders. Tried some Reloader 7 yesterday with good results. I've grown fond of Accurate #9, a lot quieter and cleaner than 1680. I have not tried anything lighter than 220 SMK's though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/10/2020 6:37:25 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Effenpig: Saw your other post. Lil'gun is good for supers but not so much for the subs. Whenever you have a high density powder with low charge weight you are going to get extreme SDs from powder position I've always had better results from 220's than 190's For powders Viht N110 and N120 followed by IMR4227 will be the best choices Reloaded 7 never really panned out for me. IIRC a bit loud and poor accuracy. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Effenpig: Originally Posted By czgunner: I'm done with 1680. It's too dirty and too loud. What do you guys have for quiet, clean, subsonic loads? Factory Aero 8" pistol upper, suppressed. Bullet is Nosler CC 190 grain. I've got a smattering of powders. Tried some Reloader 7 yesterday with good results. Saw your other post. Lil'gun is good for supers but not so much for the subs. Whenever you have a high density powder with low charge weight you are going to get extreme SDs from powder position I've always had better results from 220's than 190's For powders Viht N110 and N120 followed by IMR4227 will be the best choices Reloaded 7 never really panned out for me. IIRC a bit loud and poor accuracy. I wonder how it would work under 247 gr chunks of lead? The bullets are so big that they might keep the powder realitively uniformly packed. |
|
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 6/10/2020 11:44:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Effenpig]
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lilMAC25: I wonder how it would work under 247 gr chunks of lead? The bullets are so big that they might keep the powder realitively uniformly packed. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By Effenpig: Originally Posted By czgunner: I'm done with 1680. It's too dirty and too loud. What do you guys have for quiet, clean, subsonic loads? Factory Aero 8" pistol upper, suppressed. Bullet is Nosler CC 190 grain. I've got a smattering of powders. Tried some Reloader 7 yesterday with good results. Saw your other post. Lil'gun is good for supers but not so much for the subs. Whenever you have a high density powder with low charge weight you are going to get extreme SDs from powder position I've always had better results from 220's than 190's For powders Viht N110 and N120 followed by IMR4227 will be the best choices Reloaded 7 never really panned out for me. IIRC a bit loud and poor accuracy. I wonder how it would work under 247 gr chunks of lead? The bullets are so big that they might keep the powder realitively uniformly packed. I didn't have much luck with it using the big MBC 245s Then again I didn't have much luck with that bullet period If I had to pick a powder for the big lead bullets it would probably be N105 for bolt guns and N110 for semi-auto |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 9:43:51 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CKyleC: I'm currently working with this same bullet n110, wolf srm primers. I'm shooting it in a 8.5" pistol length gas system ar and a rem 700 i've loaded at 2.0 and 2.2 coal Are you having any stabilization issues? Apologies I just saw this today but nope, all round holes if that's what you mean. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 9:59:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Unkydon]
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By czgunner: I'm done with 1680. It's too dirty and too loud. What do you guys have for quiet, clean, subsonic loads? Factory Aero 8" pistol upper, suppressed. Bullet is Nosler CC 190 grain. I've got a smattering of powders. Tried some Reloader 7 yesterday with good results. I have had good luck with 4227 and 245 gr MBC hitek coated bullets. I just don't push them fast. 7.7gr of 4227 makes about 800 fps. Soft shooting, accurate and very quiet out of 8", 1/7, suppressed.  
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 10:17:23 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Unkydon: I have had good luck with 4227 and 245 gr MBC hitek coated bullets. I just don't push them fast. 7.7gr of 4227 makes about 800 fps. Soft shooting, accurate and very quiet out of 8", 1/7, suppressed. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125658/IMG-2609-173052.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125658/IMG-2309-150506.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Unkydon: Originally Posted By czgunner: I'm done with 1680. It's too dirty and too loud. What do you guys have for quiet, clean, subsonic loads? Factory Aero 8" pistol upper, suppressed. Bullet is Nosler CC 190 grain. I've got a smattering of powders. Tried some Reloader 7 yesterday with good results. I have had good luck with 4227 and 245 gr MBC hitek coated bullets. I just don't push them fast. 7.7gr of 4227 makes about 800 fps. Soft shooting, accurate and very quiet out of 8", 1/7, suppressed. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125658/IMG-2609-173052.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125658/IMG-2309-150506.jpg Looks like the exact same bullet design as what I’m shooting. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 10:22:30 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Unkydon]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lilMAC25: Looks like the exact same bullet design as what I’m shooting. I have shot thousands of these things. One thing I did was to open up the M4 feed ramp so it does not scar the bullet during feeding. Got a profile similar to one in the center. M4 on the right. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 10:42:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: lilMAC25]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Unkydon: I have shot thousands of these things. One thing I did was to open up the M4 feed ramp so it does not scar the bullet during feeding. Got a profile similar to one in the center. M4 on the right. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125658/85310.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Unkydon: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Looks like the exact same bullet design as what I’m shooting. I have shot thousands of these things. One thing I did was to open up the M4 feed ramp so it does not scar the bullet during feeding. Got a profile similar to one in the center. M4 on the right. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125658/85310.JPG My upper is AAC, which I think came with open feed ramps. I’ve shot maybe 200, and have had one feeding issue that I believe was related to an ejection issue caused by the ultra cheap brass collector i use. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 6:05:42 PM EDT
[#18]
Going through what I have on hand, I have CCI #41 and 4198 powder.
Thinking of Sierra #2125 bullets (150 Grain Spitzer Boat Tail) Just trying to make plinking rounds, any idea if this load would function decent enough out of an 8.5" pistol upper? |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 6:18:32 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Unkydon: I have shot thousands of these things. One thing I did was to open up the M4 feed ramp so it does not scar the bullet during feeding. Got a profile similar to one in the center. M4 on the right. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125658/85310.JPG Did you use a dremel tool with a grinding stone to open up the ramps or something else? |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 6:22:15 PM EDT
[#20]
Crap..
I ordered the Acme 135gr 30 caliber bullet and thought I'd seen someone mentioned using them.. I'm banging my head now as I can't find a post or info.. I think I got confused by someone mentioning sns casting 158gr 30-30 bullets in another thread .. 5 loaded at 2.00 OAL with 18grs of a1680 5 loaded at 2.06 OAL with 18grs of a1680. Going to test them in the morning. Basically looking for the cheapest functioning in my ar(bolt lock back, reliability load possible.) I should've stuck with the Brazos 217gr bullets I have and continued working with them. Thoughts/suggestions? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 7:57:47 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: Did you use a dremel tool with a grinding stone to open up the ramps or something else? I used some precision round files and then polished with dremel and some polishing compound. I went slow and made my first modification on a cheaper barrel just to make sure I got the results I wanted before carving on a nicer barrel. I am no gunsmith and I had not stayed at a Holiday Inn. This is what I ended up with: 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/11/2020 10:56:36 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Going through what I have on hand, I have CCI #41 and 4198 powder. Thinking of Sierra #2125 bullets (150 Grain Spitzer Boat Tail) Just trying to make plinking rounds, any idea if this load would function decent enough out of an 8.5" pistol upper? Unless it's 300 blk data you will have to find the OAL using the .250 ogive method. See my post on page 1 in this thread for more on that. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/12/2020 10:22:05 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: As long as you can find data, it should work fine. Unless it's 300 blk data you will have to find the OAL using the .250 ogive method. See my post on page 1 in this thread for more on that. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Going through what I have on hand, I have CCI #41 and 4198 powder. Thinking of Sierra #2125 bullets (150 Grain Spitzer Boat Tail) Just trying to make plinking rounds, any idea if this load would function decent enough out of an 8.5" pistol upper? Unless it's 300 blk data you will have to find the OAL using the .250 ogive method. See my post on page 1 in this thread for more on that. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/12/2020 1:37:22 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Found this load data from Sierra Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Going through what I have on hand, I have CCI #41 and 4198 powder. Thinking of Sierra #2125 bullets (150 Grain Spitzer Boat Tail) Just trying to make plinking rounds, any idea if this load would function decent enough out of an 8.5" pistol upper? Unless it's 300 blk data you will have to find the OAL using the .250 ogive method. See my post on page 1 in this thread for more on that. For .308 general use bullets (like what you mentioned) use the .250 ogive method to set OAL if you want the round to feed in an AR. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/12/2020 2:37:44 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: That should work fine, EXCEPT the oal. 2.260 is only reached with bullets designed for 300 blk. For .308 general use bullets (like what you mentioned) use the .250 ogive method to set OAL if you want the round to feed in an AR. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/12/2020 9:10:12 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Is that still an issue with 300 Blackout specific P-mags? That’s a very good question. I have a couple of 300 Blackout P-Mags, but I haven’t had a chance to mess with them yet, so while I think it’s not an issue, I don’t know for sure that it’s not. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/12/2020 11:25:20 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: That's a very good question. I have a couple of 300 Blackout P-Mags, but I haven't had a chance to mess with them yet, so while I think it's not an issue, I don't know for sure that it's not. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Is that still an issue with 300 Blackout specific P-mags? That's a very good question. I have a couple of 300 Blackout P-Mags, but I haven't had a chance to mess with them yet, so while I think it's not an issue, I don't know for sure that it's not. I have shot my 300 blk P mags, but all my ammo's OAL were set as I advised. I got the P mags to feed 200 + gr bullets. As the 5.56 mags are problematic. |
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 6/17/2020 9:38:06 AM EDT
[#28]
I reload for 223, 9, 30-30 and 308 on a RCBS Rock Chucker. i have been out of the country for 4 years and am just getting settled after several months. I have a 9" 300 blkout suppressed, that I would like to start reloading for Hunting, HD and plinking.
What dies do y'all recommend? I typically have run Hornady dies. Otherwise I need to get some powder, Leigh Defense Bullets and try the Everglades bullets for plinking. My intentions are to shoot subs the vast majority of the time. I also need to get an adjustable gas block, 300 blkout magazines and work on my feed ramps. I have had a few issues with the first bullet feeding into the barrel with factory ammo. I assume its either the magazines or the feed ramps, so I intend on fixing both areas since I plan on shooting strictly suppressed. I will search and start reading through the 63 pages, but wanted to introduce myself to the thread. Thanks |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/17/2020 9:53:44 AM EDT
[#29]
The only die that I found that is important is the crimp die. Other than that anything should work fine.
As far as the crimp die I imagine anything will work there as well but, when crimping for heavy cast bullets I have settled on the LEE FCD. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/17/2020 2:15:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BlackDogFarms: I reload for 223, 9, 30-30 and 308 on a RCBS Rock Chucker. i have been out of the country for 4 years and am just getting settled after several months. I have a 9" 300 blkout suppressed, that I would like to start reloading for Hunting, HD and plinking. What dies do y'all recommend? I typically have run Hornady dies. Otherwise I need to get some powder, Leigh Defense Bullets and try the Everglades bullets for plinking. My intentions are to shoot subs the vast majority of the time. I also need to get an adjustable gas block, 300 blkout magazines and work on my feed ramps. I have had a few issues with the first bullet feeding into the barrel with factory ammo. I assume its either the magazines or the feed ramps, so I intend on fixing both areas since I plan on shooting strictly suppressed. I will search and start reading through the 63 pages, but wanted to introduce myself to the thread. Thanks Nice interduction. I'm a fan of Hornady dies, They are visible behind the loading blocks.  I added a Lee FCD, factory crimp die, as I found better accuracy with a light crimp. I make dummy rounds for all the bullets I load. Made from cases that the primer pocket that expanded. Notice the sharpie line in the bullet. (the .250 ogive point. Explained later in this post) Unless you are loading over 200 gr bullets, normal 5.56 mage work well. I see you are loading subs, yes they want an OAL of 2.250, and a mag without the front rib. Magpul makes a 20 for this. Or you can take one of their 20's and remove the rib yourself with a file, Lot of work I only did it once. Key here is seating depth with .308 bullets meant for conventional cartridges. You should use the .250 ogive method to determine OAL. Explained in my post on page 1 of this thread. eta, I have opened up the feeding ramps on my lowers in several calibers. I used a Dremel on slow speed with the pink stones, finished up with polishing compound to get a mirror surface on feeding ramps. The center part between the feed ramps looks like a triangle with the 2 ramps almost touching there. Go slow and inspect often. Good luck. |
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 6/18/2020 10:22:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: BlackDogFarms]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Welcome to the Reloading Forum BlackDogFarms. Nice interduction.https://i.imgur.com/cNjZHKEh.jpg I'm a fan of Hornady dies, They are visible behind the loading blocks. https://i.imgur.com/iVrvup1h.jpg I added a Lee FCD, factory crimp die, as I found better accuracy with a light crimp. I make dummy rounds for all the bullets I load. Made from cases that the primer pocket that expanded. Notice the sharpie line in the bullet. (the .250 ogive point. Explained later in this post) Unless you are loading over 200 gr bullets, normal 5.56 mage work well. I see you are loading subs, yes they want an OAL of 2.250, and a mag without the front rib. Magpul makes a 20 for this. Or you can take one of their 20's and remove the rib yourself with a file, Lot of work I only did it once. Key here is seating depth with .308 bullets meant for conventional cartridges. You should use the .250 ogive method to determine OAL. Explained in my post on page 1 of this thread. eta, I have opened up the feeding ramps on my lowers in several calibers. I used a Dremel on slow speed with the pink stones, finished up with polishing compound to get a mirror surface on feeding ramps. The center part between the feed ramps looks like a triangle with the 2 ramps almost touching there. Go slow and inspect often. Good luck. Awesome good info on all. thanks, I will try to order the dies and work on the feed ramps next week, the magazines too.ETA: Ordered the dies and the 20 Rd Lancer Mags for 300BLK. Now to start researching powder etc. Thanks |
|
|
TX, USA
|
Posted: 6/25/2020 9:46:50 AM EDT
[#32]
Howdy, everyone! I just discovered this great thread. Thanks to all who have contributed.
I have been reloading for nearly 40 years (pistol, precision rifle, hunting & target loads, semi-auto service-type rifle, and shotgun) but am just now starting to load .300 Blackout. I have a question... I have formed about 600 cases from Hornady .223 brass (cut down, chamfered, annealed, formed, trimmed, primer pockets uniformed, etc.). I used the RCBS SB FL sizing die. Has anyone noticed any difference in their loads developed with newly-formed brass, vs. the same loads after the brass has been fire-formed? In my precision rifles, I will usually develop my best loads with once-fired brass, and only use that brass in one chamber, but in my semi-autos I will develop loads that chamber and shoot well in every gun I have chambered for that round. And treat new brass and used brass as pretty much equal as far as load development. But I'm just wondering if there are any snafus with newly formed .300 BLK brass? I only have 2 .300 BLK guns, a Sig MCX 9.5" and an 8.5" I assembled from higher-end parts. I'm not really looking for benchrest accuracy--I am trying to find comparable loads to the Lehigh 110 gr. Controlled Chaos load, and a good Barnes 110 gr. TAC-TX load. I will also develop training/practice rounds based on the 110 grain Varmaggedon and 150 gr. Hornady Spire point, as I have a bunch on hand. Also have many pounds of W296 and IMR4227, so those will probably be my go-to powders. Thanks! |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/25/2020 12:40:54 PM EDT
[#33]
I haven't noticed any difference.
What I did find surprising is that a light crimp with a Lee FCD made a positive difference in accuracy. Welcome to the Reloading Forum.  |
|
|
|
TX, USA
|
Posted: 6/25/2020 12:50:53 PM EDT
[#34]
Thanks, Dryflash.
I might still have a Lee FCD. It's been many years since I've used it, though. If I recall correctly, it put a kinda '3-point' crimp on the case mouth that was hard to remove completely when resizing, so I stopped using it (only ever used it on one load, a .375 H&H with 300 grain solids). Do you by chance have a picture of a lightly crimped case you would be willing to share? Maybe I was too heavy-handed with my crimps... |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/26/2020 12:02:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RedAngus: Thanks, Dryflash. I might still have a Lee FCD. It's been many years since I've used it, though. If I recall correctly, it put a kinda '3-point' crimp on the case mouth that was hard to remove completely when resizing, so I stopped using it (only ever used it on one load, a .375 H&H with 300 grain solids). Do you by chance have a picture of a lightly crimped case you would be willing to share? Maybe I was too heavy-handed with my crimps...  Properly done, not much evidence of crimping. 357's on the bottom. First never follow Lee die instructions unless you want to over crimp by a factor of 4 and make unsightly marks on your cases and your ammo looks like a rookie loaded it. Next install a proper locknut on the FCD. Unless you want to adjust it every time you use it. (Hornady makes the best) Look straight down at FCD while in press. Notice 4 slots that are the gaps between the crimping collets. You start with case run all the way up and slowly lower die until you feel contact. Now adjust die down slightly checking the collet gap closure. Repeat as needed until the collet gap has closed half way. That's what you want. Lock down locknut. Done. |
|
|
|
TX, USA
|
Posted: 6/26/2020 9:18:23 AM EDT
[#36]
Thanks for the pictures and advice on the FCD.
Yes, I was following the Lee guidelines, and that was my problem. WAY over crimped. I'll give it another try if I didn't throw it away. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/26/2020 1:33:39 PM EDT
[#37]
IMHO the reason the Lee FCD gets a bad rap is people follow the poor instructions and end up with over crimped cases.
People just don't know how to adjust them, but that's on Lee. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/26/2020 7:50:58 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: IMHO the reason the Lee FCD gets a bad rap is people follow the poor instructions and end up with over crimped cases. People just don't know how to adjust them, but that's on Lee. With YOUR guidance, I have been able to very finely control the amount of crimp I get with my FCDs. The only way I think I’d have better control would be to have really skinny feeler gauges that I could actually measure how far apart the collet parts are... So my takeaway is that the dies are simple to use, but that Lee needs some competent tech writers to make their instructions make sense. |
|
|
|
AZ, USA
|
Posted: 6/27/2020 9:38:45 AM EDT
[#39]
Could over-crimping cause signs of excessive pressure in a load that is otherwise pretty moderate?
I started loading for the .300 recently and started seeing pretty heavily flattened primers much sooner than I expected with H110 and 150 gr bullets. Never got anywhere close to the listed max. I did check the FCD and according to the adjustment procedure suggested above, my crimps were probably on the heavy side. Easy enough to answer my own question once I can go shooting again (stage 2 fire restrictions in place here), I already loaded some more rounds after backing off the crimp a bit, but figured I would ask. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/27/2020 1:35:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#40]
When I first started loading 300 blk and using 150 gr bullets I did a work up with H-110.
At 17.5 grs I got blown primers. No pressure signs with the load 17.0 grs. Formed cases from Rem 223 brass, Magtech 7 1/2 primer, OAL 2.070, light crimp with Lee FCD. See my posts above for more info on this "light crimp". So from then on I only use H-110 with bullets 135 gr (Sierra MK) and lighter. Heavier than 135 grs I use Lil'Gun. No more pressure issues. So no I don't think your issue is over crimping, but powder choice with that weight bullet. You need to fix the over crimping as it will shorten case life. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/27/2020 5:29:33 PM EDT
[#41]
I concur about H110 with 150 grain bullets. It's squirrely.
H110 is an odd duck of a powder. It's got those "do not reduce more than 3% below starting load" warnings, because it behaves oddly unless it's got a certain loading density. And not just at lighter loads, either. As you load closer to max, it will give you pretty dramatic pressure increases - with pretty dramatic signs on your cases, blown primers, and so on. It's great for .30 Carbine, and that's all I use it for. Lil' Gun, on the other hand, is pretty forgiving. Gradually increase your load close to max, and you get gradually increasing pressure signs. That makes it really easy to load 300 Blackout with. And not just for 150s either. I've loaded down to 110 grain bullets and gotten predictable and consistent increases in velocity with increases in powder charges. |
|
|
|
GA, USA
|
Posted: 6/30/2020 6:24:00 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By czgunner: I'm done with 1680. It's too dirty and too loud. What do you guys have for quiet, clean, subsonic loads? Factory Aero 8" pistol upper, suppressed. Bullet is Nosler CC 190 grain. I've got a smattering of powders. Tried some Reloader 7 yesterday with good results. Vihta Vuori N110 is the powder you seek. IMO |
|
|
TX, USA
|
Posted: 6/30/2020 6:57:37 PM EDT
[#43]
I understand there are some tried and true loads, but is there any reason I couldn't use any .308 projectile on a 300 BLK load?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2020 2:08:44 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By truedef: I understand there are some tried and true loads, but is there any reason I couldn't use any .308 projectile on a 300 BLK load? One of my favorite plinking loads uses generic 150 grain* FMJs. They are supersonic, but not super fast, and the bullets are easier to manage with my big fingers than those smaller 110s and 120s. I have (with effort) gotten 110 grain round nose bullets intended for .30 Carbine to work, but those bullets aren’t nearly as cost effective as generic/surplus 150s, and they don’t perform quite as well as the pointier spitzer type varmint bullets. *Generic 150 grain FMJs can be marked as anything from about 145 grains to 155 grains. The surplus ones are (supposedly) 147 grain bullets intended for 7.62 NATO. For this application, as long as you’re not trying to push them as fast as they can possibly go, the actual bullet weight isn’t really that important. Maybe call it a “150 grain-class” bullet... |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2020 2:30:38 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By truedef: I understand there are some tried and true loads, but is there any reason I couldn't use any .308 projectile on a 300 BLK load? Look for my post on page 1 in this thread for full explanation. Which means pulled mil 147-150 gr FMJ's and Speer 125 gr TNT's are cheap and work well. I don't normally use heavier than 150 grs for my super loads unless I'm using bargain bullets picked up at the funshow. With the heavier bullets 200 gr and up, load to mag length and use a mag designed for 300 blk or remove the front rib yourself. On the light end I couldn't get 110 gr Carbine RN's to feed, others (probably with a different brand of bullet could, so different ogive) could. So if I want a light bullet I use the various 110 gr varmint bullets. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/4/2020 10:13:19 PM EDT
[#46]
I have loaded my last vmax/zmax in the 110gr variety as of today.
Is it worth working up a load with the Barnes bullets? I bought a slew of the 110gr zmax on closeouts for a song but I'm not sure I want to stick with them. I have a solid load with them that's accurate but on the hot side with H110 that gives good velocity but with some pressure signs. I could be convinced to change... |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/5/2020 11:08:34 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cucamelsmd15: I have loaded my last vmax/zmax in the 110gr variety as of today. Is it worth working up a load with the Barnes bullets? I bought a slew of the 110gr zmax on closeouts for a song but I'm not sure I want to stick with them. I have a solid load with them that's accurate but on the hot side with H110 that gives good velocity but with some pressure signs. I could be convinced to change... I don’t think your pressure signs have anything to do with that bullet. I think it’s the powder. When you worked up the Z-Max load, how hot did you have to get to have the accuracy you got? I’ll bet that it was a pretty blah load until you got close to maximum. Keeping in mind that H110 is a picky powder, I would not be surprised that a slightly softer load would either give you a LOT less pressure signs, or would be way off in the accuracy department, or both. H110 is that picky. I keep my H110 for .30 Carbine. Lil’ Gun is far less sensitive to tiny load changes, and it’s pretty close to the same price if I remember correctly. I really like it with lighter bullets like those 110s and 120s. |
|
|
|
NV, USA
|
Posted: 7/5/2020 3:02:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: VegasSaint]
[#48]
Hey all,
I have a bunch of these 150gr RNFP from Berry's for my 30-30 but as they are cheap, I have been trying to make them work for supers. So far it's not really happening due to feed issues. Anyone had any success with these?  https://www.diamondkbrass.com/30-30-150gr-RN-100-ct.html Thanks! |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/5/2020 3:39:01 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: I don't think your pressure signs have anything to do with that bullet. I think it's the powder. When you worked up the Z-Max load, how hot did you have to get to have the accuracy you got? I'll bet that it was a pretty blah load until you got close to maximum. Keeping in mind that H110 is a picky powder, I would not be surprised that a slightly softer load would either give you a LOT less pressure signs, or would be way off in the accuracy department, or both. H110 is that picky. I keep my H110 for .30 Carbine. Lil' Gun is far less sensitive to tiny load changes, and it's pretty close to the same price if I remember correctly. I really like it with lighter bullets like those 110s and 120s. I was more intrigued about switching from the vmax/zmax to Barnes in terms of comparable load data and performance. My supers are used for lots of critter control, so accuracy and terminal performance are important. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/5/2020 4:13:24 PM EDT
[#50]
Started to reload some 300blk for my Ruger Ranch but discovered my Lee die expander was too long and not resizing the neck properly. Quick call to Lee to describe the problem and they sent out a new expander which works perfectly.
Loaded my first subs today. I know it's probably on the low side of charge but I'm starting with the highest charge weight first and see how things go. Random 300blk factory brass Berrys bullets 220gr spire point bullet Win SRP Win 296 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8 9.0 |
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
