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The bullet diameter after pc is .310. The neck wall thickness is .012. I'm using once fired factory 300blk brass and not converted brass.
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After a looking around for a while I think I'm going to order this http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=88&products_id=1512
I ended up ordering a .308 and .309 which should be here shortly. I'll post back with the results once I'm able to do some more testing. |
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I now have a ban button. Want to see me use it? Keep it up. - Lancelot
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Anybody got any information on loads using Sierra 220 grain Pro-Hunters over Accurate 1680? I'll be running them in an 8.5" Noveske with a form 1 can. I've read through several pages of this thread but haven't found anything using this bullet yet.
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Originally Posted By PoopdeckPappy:
Anybody got any information on loads using Sierra 220 grain Pro-Hunters over Accurate 1680? I'll be running them in an 8.5" Noveske with a form 1 can. I've read through several pages of this thread but haven't found anything using this bullet yet. View Quote If you have a chronograph, it'll be easier. I'd start at 11.0 grains and proceed according to what the chronograph says. If you don't, listening for the crack can be tricky. |
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Originally Posted By sheltot:
If you have a chronograph, it'll be easier. I'd start at 11.0 grains and proceed according to what the chronograph says. If you don't, listening for the crack can be tricky. View Quote OK, I can start at 11 grains and I do have a Chrono. Any idea what the COAL is going to be? Seems like they are going to be awful short and probably end up highly compressed. Any trouble with that? How do they feed in a PMag? |
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Guys, pistol powder is a pain in my ass.
I've only been reloading about 2 years now, 300blk got me started, and I shifted to mostly reloading 308 stuff. My biggest turn off to reloading 300blk is that H110 leaks everywhere out of my lee powder measurer and makes the action gritty, and jams up my trickler. Any suggestions on how you guys meter/measure/handle your fine spherical powders? |
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Originally Posted By M4tth3w:
Guys, pistol powder is a pain in my ass. I've only been reloading about 2 years now, 300blk got me started, and I shifted to mostly reloading 308 stuff. My biggest turn off to reloading 300blk is that H110 leaks everywhere out of my lee powder measurer and makes the action gritty, and jams up my trickler. Any suggestions on how you guys meter/measure/handle your fine spherical powders? View Quote That's what happens to me with True Blue I'm not using it again til I replace my Lee PPM with something better. I have to pull 200 9mm Gold Dots with TB because I don't trust it to throw accurate charges with those fine powders. H110 doesn't do it on mine though, maybe try Lil Gun it's not so fine |
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You need a Cast iron powder measure, RCBS, Hornady, Lyman, or a Redding.
All of these will measure ball powder exact with good technique. (H-110 and True Blue are ball powders) Saying "pistol powder" when you mean Ball powder is incorrect. There are ball powders suitable for pistol or rifle cartridges. |
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Thanks guys, I'll look around for a higher quality powder measure.
ETA: Just cleaned and set up an RCBS uniflow. Holy cow! It's so smooth.. it's so consistent.. thank you! @AS556 @dryflash3 |
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I believe I finally have everything sorted out and would like to update my earlier posts.
Originally Posted By The_Hammer:
So far I've shot about 200 of my sub sonic loads and I'm still working on dialing it in. I've noticed that the lower has a lot of unburnt powder residue building up and was wondering if that's to be expected with subs? I'm using 10 grains of RL-7 and seating to just shy of the ogive method for ~1000fps. ETA: The red flakes in the lower are pieces of powder coat. So far I'm not seeing any build up of any kind in my barrel or suppressor. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/299792/IMG-1910-118138.JPG View Quote Originally Posted By The_Hammer:
Well I'm pretty sure that I found my issue. My Lee sizing die is only expanding the neck to .302 . I pulled a few bullets from my loaded rounds and they only measure .305 . Looks like I've got about 100 rounds to pull down now. What bushing die would y'all recommend? View Quote Originally Posted By The_Hammer:
After looking around for a while I think I'm going to order this http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=88&products_id=1512 I ended up ordering a .308 and .309 which should be here shortly. I'll post back with the results once I'm able to do some more testing. View Quote I received my NOE expander plugs today and I'm very happy with how well they worked. The .309 plug expands the cases to a little over .308 which is perfect for my .310 bullets. I loaded up 5 rounds using the ogive method which ends up being just shy of compressing 10 grains of RL-7. Initial results look very promising. My cases are no longer covered in soot, I'm not getting a blowback of unburnt powder and my velocity is much more consistent. Average velocity of 5 shots is 970 FPS, up from 950. Extreme spread is 29, down from around 75. The wind is currently gusting upwards of 35 mph so I may have to save any accuracy testing for another day. |
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I now have a ban button. Want to see me use it? Keep it up. - Lancelot
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Originally Posted By PoopdeckPappy:
OK, I can start at 11 grains and I do have a Chrono. Any idea what the COAL is going to be? Seems like they are going to be awful short and probably end up highly compressed. Any trouble with that? How do they feed in a PMag? View Quote I have no problems using PMags. Use the 1/4" ogive at the rib method developed by @dryflash3. I believe it's on page one of this thread. FWIW, I received an email from Magpul today advertising a bespoke 300 BLK PMag. |
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Originally Posted By sheltot:
I have no problems using PMags. Use the 1/4" ogive at the rib method developed by @dryflash3. I believe it's on page one of this thread. FWIW, I received an email from Magpul today advertising a bespoke 300 BLK PMag. View Quote Got it. Thanks. The Magpul site says the 300 Blackout PMags are coming out spring 2017. |
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Originally Posted By sheltot:
I have no problems using PMags. Use the 1/4" ogive at the rib method developed by @dryflash3. I believe it's on page one of this thread. FWIW, I received an email from Magpul today advertising a bespoke 300 BLK PMag. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By sheltot:
Originally Posted By PoopdeckPappy:
OK, I can start at 11 grains and I do have a Chrono. Any idea what the COAL is going to be? Seems like they are going to be awful short and probably end up highly compressed. Any trouble with that? How do they feed in a PMag? I have no problems using PMags. Use the 1/4" ogive at the rib method developed by @dryflash3. I believe it's on page one of this thread. FWIW, I received an email from Magpul today advertising a bespoke 300 BLK PMag. It is my understanding, as I don't load subsonic, that 2.250 is used for for 220 gr Sierra's OAL and the front ribs of a P mag have to be shaved some. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Keep in mind the .250 ogive method of setting OAL applies to 180 gr and lighter bullets. It is my understanding, as I don't load subsonic, that 2.250 is used for for 220 gr Sierra's OAL and the front ribs of a P mag have to be shaved some. View Quote I am using m2 pmags and the .250 worked for hornady 208's and also palmetto armory pc lead. It didnt work for 110 gr hornady though. There was too little in the case for an has gun. I had to seat shorter for that particular bullet though. |
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Magpul is making a 300 blk mag,
Product Detail The PMAG 30 AR 300 B GEN M3 is a purpose-designed magazine for rifles chambered in 300 Blackout. Since it’s inception, 300 Blackout shooters have had to use a magazine designed for another cartridge, limiting it’s performance and compatibility. One of the nice features of 300 Blackout is the compatibility with 5.56x45mm parts, but with the magazine it is a compromise to do so. Due to the wide variety of projectile weights and shapes potentially decreasing overall reliability, a dedicated 300 Blackout magazine was a logical step for the PMAG line. In addition to the performance gained by a dedicated mag, the PMAG 30 AR 300 B also offers a safer way to feed your 300 BLK rifle. When using 5.56 mags, the potential to chamber and fire a 300 BLK round in a 5.56 rifle with catastrophic results requires diligent ammunition management by the shooter. The PMAG 30 AR 300 B’s distinct rib design provides the shooter a distinct visual and tactile difference from any other PMAG to mitigate dangerous cross-loading issues. Along with optimized 300 BLK performance, the PMAG 30 AR 300 B brings along all of the GEN M3 features such as our next-generation impact and crush resistant polymer, aggressive front and rear texture, an easily removable slim floor plate, a paint pen dot matrix for marking and identification, and a dust/impact cover. • Dedicated, purpose-designed magazine for rifles chambered in 300 Blackout • Optimized internal geometry accommodates the wide variety of bullet profiles used in 300 Blackout cartridges • Distinct rib design provides the shooter a visual & tactile difference from any other pmag to mitigate dangerous cross-loading • Carries forward the physical & performance features of the rest of the gen m3 line From this thread running in GD, 300 blk Magpul thread |
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Originally Posted By ws-6:
I am using m2 pmags and the .250 worked for hornady 208's and also palmetto armory pc lead. It didnt work for 110 gr hornady though. There was too little in the case for an has gun. I had to seat shorter for that particular bullet though. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ws-6:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Keep in mind the .250 ogive method of setting OAL applies to 180 gr and lighter bullets. It is my understanding, as I don't load subsonic, that 2.250 is used for for 220 gr Sierra's OAL and the front ribs of a P mag have to be shaved some. I am using m2 pmags and the .250 worked for hornady 208's and also palmetto armory pc lead. It didnt work for 110 gr hornady though. There was too little in the case for an has gun. I had to seat shorter for that particular bullet though. I will be specific, Hornady 110 gr Spire point #3010, OAL 2.015. Got the OAL with the .250 method. Fed and fired fine for me. Exceptions to everything I guess and some members have gotten the Carbine bullets to feed. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
I don't know what to say, every 110 gr bullet with the exception of the short RN 30 Carbine bullets have worked great for me with the .250 method. I will be specific, Hornady 110 gr Spire point #3010, OAL 2.015. Got the OAL with the .250 method. Fed and fired fine for me. Exceptions to everything I guess and some members have gotten the Carbine bullets to feed. View Quote They weren't as accurate as the spire point bullets (Hornady's and Sierra's), but they worked and fed nicely. I believe I had to seat them at an odd OAL, (data's not in front of me), but they were pretty short to keep the .250" diameter at the rib in the magazine. I'm now saving my metric butt-load of 110 FMJs for a .30 Carbine loading project whenever I get some (a large amount of) time, and I've moved to "pointier" bullets for Blackout. |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
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Originally Posted By M4tth3w:
Thanks guys, I'll look around for a higher quality powder measure. ETA: Just cleaned and set up an RCBS uniflow. Holy cow! It's so smooth.. it's so consistent.. thank you! @AS556 @dryflash3 View Quote Awesome maybe Ill check them out. My Lee gear is starting to piss me off. |
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Your welcome.
How to tune a Uniflo my methods work for all metal powder measures. The wax is the key. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Your welcome. How to tune a Uniflo my methods work for all metal powder measures. The wax is the key. View Quote Thanks for posting that! I need to clean my Hornady PM and will use that wax on it. |
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I now have a ban button. Want to see me use it? Keep it up. - Lancelot
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I have quite a bit of lead from shooting .22 lr into a bullet trap.
I also have some scrap lead and 25# of Linotype. I've got a 1-7 twist barrel for a bolt action rifle chambered in .300 Blackout coming in soon (plus an AR in .300 Blackout). What would be an acceptable hardness for cast .300 Blackout bullets that will all be subsonic. . . And powdercoated? I've seen a BHN of 11-12 for subsonic, but wondering if the powdercoating might let me get away with a softer bullet. |
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My supersonic 155 gr 2R cast bullets are "whatever" alloy.
I would guess roughly the same as Wheel Weights. The powder coat process is an amazing bullet jacket. eta, I believe it's more about bullet/bore fit than hardness. I size my 300 blk bullets to .310 with a Lee bullet sizer. Lee doesn't make a .310 sizer, but it's easy to open up a .309 sizer with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a dowel. |
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Pulled some factory Hornady 208 amax rounds. Found 10.1 grains of this:
Attached File Anyone recognize it? |
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Originally Posted By davebl:
Pulled some factory Hornady 208 amax rounds. Found 10.1 grains of this: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/257366/fullsizeoutput-1550-126669.JPG Anyone recognize it? View Quote It is both unwise and futile to put much effort into identifying a powder found in a commercially loaded round. It is quite possible that the powder used is not available as a canister grade powder, despite "looking just like" some powder or other that IS available. |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
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Originally Posted By GHPorter:
It is both unwise and futile to put much effort into identifying a powder found in a commercially loaded round. It is quite possible that the powder used is not available as a canister grade powder, despite "looking just like" some powder or other that IS available. View Quote Why do people always spout this if someone asks what kind of powder a factory cartridge has? Maybe people are just curious. |
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I tried all kinds of powder, different lengths and crimp/no crimp, I was never able to get them to stabilize @ 100 yards.
This was with an 8.5" 1/7 twist barrel |
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Originally Posted By SERVED_USMC: Poor people are gross
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Nothing was spouted, you got a very reasonable answer. Just not the one you wanted.
The way to duplicate a factory load is to measure the velocity of the load. Then load with a powder available to a reloader to give the same velocity. A handloader doesn't care what the factory used. Factory loads are a compromise to function in many different firearms. We care about custom tuning a load to our firearm, not settle for what is commercially available. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
A handloader doesn't care what the factory used. Factory loads are a compromise to function in many different firearms. We care about custom tuning a load to our firearm, not settle for what is commercially available. View Quote I don't agree with that at all yes it's silly to attempt to visually identify pulled powder because it may not even be something we can get, but I reload as a cheaper way to get quality ammo I have many firearms, and my friends even trust me enough to shoot my loads in theirs, so when I work up a load I want to make it as modular as possible working up specific loads for specific guns will never be my thing |
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but if I just say what it is
it tends to sublimate away |
Tested some of the updated Hodgdon data for 300blk. Updated data is on the Hodgdon website - didn't make it into the 2017 annual manual. The new max load for 125 Nosler is 21.0 Lil'gun ---- way hotter than the old data. Hopefully will have accuracy testing done, but it won't be for a while.
125SST Hornady, Lil'gun 18.0 to 20.1, LC brass (converted), Wolf SRM primer, 2.11" COL, light crimp LeeFCD 20.1 grains Lil'gun 1,556 ft.lbs Series, 7, Shots:, 3 Min,2357, Max,2383 Avg,2368 ,S-D, 13 ES , 26 link to thread with my full velocity test results and notes |
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Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit:
I don't agree with that at all yes it's silly to attempt to visually identify pulled powder because it may not even be something we can get, but I reload as a cheaper way to get quality ammo I have many firearms, and my friends even trust me enough to shoot my loads in theirs, so when I work up a load I want to make it as modular as possible working up specific loads for specific guns will never be my thing View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
A handloader doesn't care what the factory used. Factory loads are a compromise to function in many different firearms. We care about custom tuning a load to our firearm, not settle for what is commercially available. I don't agree with that at all yes it's silly to attempt to visually identify pulled powder because it may not even be something we can get, but I reload as a cheaper way to get quality ammo I have many firearms, and my friends even trust me enough to shoot my loads in theirs, so when I work up a load I want to make it as modular as possible working up specific loads for specific guns will never be my thing |
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Originally Posted By davebl:
Why do people always spout this if someone asks what kind of powder a factory cartridge has? Maybe people are just curious. View Quote The only reason to even vaguely want to know what specific powder is in a particular factory load is if there's something special about that load, such as low flash (or something negative like LOTS of flash), and then only if you want to find out how that "something special" was produced. The way we keep this hobby safe (and avoid well meaning idiots trying to regulate us to death) is by staying VERY safe. Handloaders that blow stuff up because they take shortcuts do not keep us safe. The worst thing I've done in handloading is miss dropping powder in 3 out of 100 rounds of 9mm ammo, which gave me a squib, some powder burns, a damaged gun and a huge sense that I could have done a lot of damage that way. I pulled down all of the remaining rounds and tried to see how I'd goofed. I wound up learning a lot about HOW I was loading, which made me safer and more efficient. I never want to hear about someone who posts here having lost a finger, an eye, or a life by thinking that this hobby is inherently goof-proof. Because it ain't. So I "spout" this sort of thing, hoping I can help someone I've never met avoid hurting himself or others. That's why... |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
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Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit:
I don't agree with that at all yes it's silly to attempt to visually identify pulled powder because it may not even be something we can get, but I reload as a cheaper way to get quality ammo I have many firearms, and my friends even trust me enough to shoot my loads in theirs, so when I work up a load I want to make it as modular as possible working up specific loads for specific guns will never be my thing View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
A handloader doesn't care what the factory used. Factory loads are a compromise to function in many different firearms. We care about custom tuning a load to our firearm, not settle for what is commercially available. I don't agree with that at all yes it's silly to attempt to visually identify pulled powder because it may not even be something we can get, but I reload as a cheaper way to get quality ammo I have many firearms, and my friends even trust me enough to shoot my loads in theirs, so when I work up a load I want to make it as modular as possible working up specific loads for specific guns will never be my thing You know what? You are both right. Back in time, way before the internet; this was the difference between a "Handloader" and a "Reloader". The Handloader was all about the most customnest loads possible; the last hundredth of an inch, the last 10 fps possible. The Reloader was about making the best "factory" style loads possible. Work in anything, better than the factory. Bubba just threw shit together. |
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Originally Posted By Det0nate: It takes a special kind of retard to argue the wrong side of second grade spelling.
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Can we get back to discussing 300 blk loads?
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I can't wait to try out the new CFE BLK. Has anyone tried any of it, yet?
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Originally Posted By grimhollow:
I can't wait to try out the new CFE BLK. Has anyone tried any of it, yet? View Quote There's a thread going about this powder over on the 300 blackout forum...I would link, but not sure that is acceptable here. Overall impressions so far is a powder that is unpredictable with inconsistency in pressure when working up/down test loads. So, gist is that it's not any better than what is already available... |
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Originally Posted By M4tth3w:
Guys, pistol powder is a pain in my ass. I've only been reloading about 2 years now, 300blk got me started, and I shifted to mostly reloading 308 stuff. My biggest turn off to reloading 300blk is that H110 leaks everywhere out of my lee powder measurer and makes the action gritty, and jams up my trickler. Any suggestions on how you guys meter/measure/handle your fine spherical powders? View Quote Run them through an RCBS Uniflow or Hornady LnL powder measure. |
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Originally Posted By v6pwr:
There's a thread going about this powder over on the 300 blackout forum...I would link, but not sure that is acceptable here. Overall impressions so far is a powder that is unpredictable with inconsistency in pressure when working up/down test loads. So, gist is that it's not any better than what is already available... View Quote There are only a couple of websites that you can't link to here. 300 blackout forum is not on the short list. Link away. |
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Originally Posted By JamesP81:
Run them through an RCBS Uniflow or Hornady LnL powder measure. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By JamesP81:
Originally Posted By M4tth3w:
Guys, pistol powder is a pain in my ass. I've only been reloading about 2 years now, 300blk got me started, and I shifted to mostly reloading 308 stuff. My biggest turn off to reloading 300blk is that H110 leaks everywhere out of my lee powder measurer and makes the action gritty, and jams up my trickler. Any suggestions on how you guys meter/measure/handle your fine spherical powders? Run them through an RCBS Uniflow or Hornady LnL powder measure. The key is a quality metal PM. |
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thanks for the heads up dry flash.
It's a long thread, but I cut towards the last page because that's where this new powder started to have real test numbers.. CFE BLK stats |
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Originally Posted By v6pwr:
thanks for the heads up dry flash. It's a long thread, but I cut towards the last page because that's where this new powder started to have real test numbers.. CFE BLK stats View Quote |
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Is this the right place to ask about 300 BLK loads using Rainier's 180 RNFP (Plated lead) bullets?
They're about $120/1000 plus shipping (about .12 cents each) Seems like a great low-cost plinking round. Rainier suggests max of 1500 fps... Any ideas? |
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If those are factory loads, this is the wrong post and forum.
You want to go under the AR-15 Tab and look for the ammo forum. Ammo Forum link. |
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Originally Posted By LoneStoner:
Is this the right place to ask about 300 BLK loads using Rainier's 180 RNFP (Plated lead) bullets? They're about $120/1000 plus shipping (about .12 cents each) Seems like a great low-cost plinking round. Rainier suggests max of 1500 fps... Any ideas? View Quote Not factory loads. Asking if anyone has experience and/or load data for the above. OAL, powder/charge weight, functioning, feeding reliability, accuracy, those kinds of things. Thanks. |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
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For load data use 180 gr data and work up from the start load.
Develop your OAL with the .250 ogive rule. (covered on page 1 of this thread). If it was me loading them, I would use Lil'Gun. I did have some Speer 180 gr RN's I shot up with 15 grs of Lil'Gun. OAL 2.12. I started at 14.0 grs. With the correct OAL, RN bullets feed fine in an AR in 300 blk. |
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Hey guys,
I'm new to the .300 Blackout reloading game. I want to make sure that I am doing this .250 ogive rule correctly. My case is trimmed to 1.360" and I am seating a Sierra 168gr MatchKing bullet. My COAL is 2.078" - 2.080". Does this sound close to being right? |
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OAL by itself is really meaningless without more data. If it fits in the magazine, AND if the .250" diameter point on the bullet is in the right spot in the magazine (per dryflash3's pictures), then that OAL is "about right." Sometimes the ".250 rule" only gets you in the close proximity to the final, functional OAL
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
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Originally Posted By allensaldi:
Hey guys, I'm new to the .300 Blackout reloading game. I want to make sure that I am doing this .250 ogive rule correctly. My case is trimmed to 1.360" and I am seating a Sierra 168gr MatchKing bullet. My COAL is 2.078" - 2.080". Does this sound close to being right? View Quote Ensure your pic is clear. We need to see the sharpie mark next to the mag bump. |
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Anyone converted Wolf gold to 300 brass? Wondering if the neck is too thick, I know Geco brass won't work as I've already tried. I have a ton of Wolf, just want to know if it's worth converting or not.
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Originally Posted By Aby001:
Anyone converted Wolf gold to 300 brass? Wondering if the neck is too thick, I know Geco brass won't work as I've already tried. I have a ton of Wolf, just want to know if it's worth converting or not. View Quote Give a few a try and see what happens. In my experience, most of the "neck too thick" issues people have with converting brass has more to do with how they do the forming than the cases themselves. I chop cases, then anneal them before forming. I chop my cases a bit long - long enough that they need a bit of trimming after forming as well. I've gone through a lot of different headstamps that "the list" on 300 BlkTalk says are "no go" because of "thick necks" and not had a single issue. I believe this is because the annealing makes the neck conform both to the sizing die and the expander ball, which should adjust the thickness of the brass in the process. I KNOW that annealing reduces forming effort. |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
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