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Posted: 3/22/2012 11:21:42 PM EDT
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Link Posted: 3/23/2012 12:12:57 AM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 3/23/2012 12:30:01 AM EDT
[#2]



Quoted:


Have you tried seating a primer in one?  This is to make sure you haven't overdone it.  It "appeared" that you were applying quite a bit of force, its hard to tell in the video.  


I use the one for the single stage press.  If you can't pull it out of the shell holder, you've swaged too much.



 
Link Posted: 3/23/2012 1:23:15 AM EDT
[#3]
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Link Posted: 3/23/2012 2:20:37 AM EDT
[#4]
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Link Posted: 3/23/2012 2:29:02 AM EDT
[#5]
So this is only for .223 and .308? no tools for 9mm brass that is crimped?
Link Posted: 3/23/2012 2:40:37 AM EDT
[#6]
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Link Posted: 3/23/2012 11:33:21 AM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 3/23/2012 11:47:13 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
So this is only for .223 and .308? no tools for 9mm brass that is crimped?


After Googling this morning, about how the Dillon Super Swage 600 does 9mm, I have to say yes.  Dillon simply requires you use the small button with the large rod!  No reason why the RCBS tool wouldn't work the same way.  Can't test that out as I don't have any military 9mm.


You don't need crimped brass to see if the spud will center on a piece of 9mm...

Inquiring minds want to know.
Link Posted: 3/24/2012 12:37:09 AM EDT
[#9]
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Link Posted: 3/24/2012 1:16:58 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:

You're right, that wasn't too tough.  9mm will work fine and .45 acp as well.  With .45 it works best if you cut a piece of 3/8" clear rigid thinwall tubing (1/8" shorter than the case rod) slip it over the rod and then swage away.  Otherwise you have to guide each one to the button because of the excessive sag due to the rod being so much smaller in diameter than the .45.

For a good freight-free source of the 3/8" clear rigid thinwall tubing, here's the Plastic tubing LINK I use.


Thanks!

Link Posted: 3/24/2012 2:42:06 AM EDT
[#11]
Looks solid and looks like it works well.  The only weak point is the Nyloc nut, if you have to remove it every now and then, after a few times it won't lock up as tight as the nylon progressively gets chewed up



Awesome posts and pictures!


 
Link Posted: 3/24/2012 5:19:58 PM EDT
[#12]
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Link Posted: 3/24/2012 5:45:23 PM EDT
[#13]
Looks like a nice tool, if I hadn't already purchased the DIllon I'd be all over one.
Link Posted: 3/24/2012 7:25:04 PM EDT
[#14]
GWhis

Thanks for the outstanding review, and instructions. I haven't had to use mine yet, and this helps immensely!

Link Posted: 3/24/2012 8:30:57 PM EDT
[#15]
Very informative post by GWhis thank you for your effort! I have been looking for an alternative to press mounted die units. How many cases can you process in roughly an hour w/ this tool?
Link Posted: 3/25/2012 2:08:32 AM EDT
[#16]
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Link Posted: 3/25/2012 11:02:09 AM EDT
[#17]
I got my RCBS swager a couple of days ago and tested it too. I tested using .223 brass by Lake City. I never used a Dillon swager so I didn't know how it was supposed to "feel" when it was properly swaged. I have been using a Hornady reamer in a screw gun while holding the case in my hand and really hated doing that whole process as I never thought I was square when reaming.

I followed RCBS's directions and they say to make sure the rod is about an 1/8 of an inch from the tip of the swager. Well, that is being really conservative as I had to screw the rod in closer because it was not deep enough. I did not want to bend or break the rod by being too close so I crept it in closer till I felt resistance while pulling the cam handle near the end of the stroke. At one point I had it where I could not even pull the cam handle to the end of the stroke and it felt stuck so I backed the rod off. I examined the cases under a magnifying glass and I think I have a good setting as the outer edge of the primer pocket seems to resemble what a reaming would do but it is more even and seems uniform on the edge.

I have not tested seating a primer yet so I will get back to this thread as well and update my findings. I think the important thing to know when using this tool is sort of like how people prime the brass and talk of the feeling  a primer being seated. I think I would need to know how the tool feels when swaging to understand if it is being swaged. The tool is said to use less force than other tools (Dillon probably), yet, I think some force need to be felt or else how to do you know if you are doing anything at all? Let me know what you all think.

Also, I don't believe in adjusting the rod up to compensate for "sag" of the case when it is riding on the rod. It is no big deal guiding the case with your fingers to the swager. Wouldn't you be making the rod and swager not square to one another if you compensated for this "sag"?

Link Posted: 10/11/2020 11:50:30 AM EDT
[#18]
An 8 year old thread that was relevant to my interests.
Link Posted: 10/11/2020 2:10:01 PM EDT
[#19]
Link Posted: 10/11/2020 3:50:03 PM EDT
[#20]
This helped a lot, I have a lot of Lake City brass to process, and ran across this thread that was linked in an old discussion from some other site after an internet search concerning this very subject.  

Link Posted: 10/12/2020 11:04:14 AM EDT
[#21]
Where are the pictures & video?  
Link Posted: 10/12/2020 11:19:49 AM EDT
[#22]
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